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Height dilemma help

maxpower29

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Aug 21, 2016
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12
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Halifax NS
Ok so I have read this forum for a while on and off just for some help and ideas about different things, but I needed to create a profile and a post to get some serious help with our planning.
We are right now getting ready to build a semi detached house, live in one half and rent to other half. I want a garage similar to the one I have now ( 22x22 8.5 ft ceiling and 7 foot door) except a 24 x 24 would be perfect, but also I need it to be big enough to fit our new camper in. The camper's total height is 9 ft 11 inches to the top of the AC unit. So I would need a 10 ft door to fit it in. Sounds pretty simple except the by laws only allow me to have a total garage height from "established grade to highest point" of 15 ft with no pitch less than 4x12. So measuring my garage now it seems with a final product I will probably be closer 16 ft if I do a regular 11ft ceiling, 4x12 pitch. I have been stressing about what to do here because it seems so pointless not to be able to store our camper and spend hundreds a year on storage.
Are there any doors that will allow me to gain a few extra inches in ceiling height and bring it closer to 10.5-10.75 ft ceiling? Any custom trusses that will allow me to do this? If I go to a smaller like 22w x 24l or 20w x 24l will it bring the overall 4 x 12 pitch height low enough to be under 15 ft? I also wonder if I went a bit smaller how dumb it would look to somehow build a small workshop onto the side of it to give me more room and be able to fit everything I want in say a 18-20 ft wide garage....
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Any input will help, thanks!
 
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maxpower29

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Halifax NS
I looked at sissor trusses too but Im not sure it would help. I still need to get a 10 ft door, and wouldnt I still need a higher ceiling?
 

Firebrick43

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Put the garage sticking out from the house so the roof line is inline withe the garage and the end wall is where the doors are not under the eaves. Therefore door height is not limited by the wall sill height. Along with scissor trusses you should be good
 
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maxpower29

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Halifax NS
Put the garage sticking out from the house so the roof line is inline withe the garage and the end wall is where the doors are not under the eaves. Therefore door height is not limited by the wall sill height. Along with scissor trusses you should be good

Also says it cannot be closer to the street then the dwelling, if I understand what your saying correctly. But thanks for the idea
 
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maxpower29

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Halifax NS
Im thinking if I go to a 20 wide x 24 deep the 4x12 pitch will lose a few inches, and i will just have to try and make up a few inches in the ceiling height to make it work under 15ft. I want bigger then 20ft but I guess I might have to **** it up and go 20. If I go 20 I also want to build a small attachment to it to havea work bench and tools and thats kind of stuff to make sure theres room
 

NUTTSGT

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There is no way I would try to put a 9'11" camper in a 10' door on a regular basis unless the driveway and garage floor are absolutely perfectly level to each other. I wouldn't want that either as I would want the garage higher than the driveway to prevent water intrusion. However, doing that is going to put the camper at in angle when backing in and probably growing in height.


Draw up a sketch of wht you would like/need to get your camper inside with a taller door and roof line. One you have a decent drawing, which you can do yourself, approach the AHJ and ask about getting a variance for it. Remember to include why you want and need the extra height and that the neighborhood would look better with the camper stored indoors rather than sitting out.
 
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maxpower29

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There is no way I would try to put a 9'11" camper in a 10' door on a regular basis unless the driveway and garage floor are absolutely perfectly level to each other. I wouldn't want that either as I would want the garage higher than the driveway to prevent water intrusion. However, doing that is going to put the camper at in angle when backing in and probably growing in height.


Draw up a sketch of wht you would like/need to get your camper inside with a taller door and roof line. One you have a decent drawing, which you can do yourself, approach the AHJ and ask about getting a variance for it. Remember to include why you want and need the extra height and that the neighborhood would look better with the camper stored indoors rather than sitting out.
For sure. 9 11' is the number on the spec sheet. But when I measured it was closer to 9 9', and I can also gain another 2-4 " taking the wheels off and replacing them with smaller old steel ones. Really it will be close to 9 6", but yes thats close as well. I have to make sure this will work before hand
 
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larry_g

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Sounds pretty simple except the by laws only allow me to have a total garage height from "established grade to highest point" of 15 ft with no pitch less than 4x12.
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Any input will help, thanks!

Established grade is what is there now so it seems that you could lower the floor. Remove soil down to a couple of feet below 'established grade' and pour a stem wall to above grade and build the building on top of that.

lg
no neat sig line
 

Rockcam

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Grand Rapids
I agree with NUTTSGT on this one - door height is the size of the framed opening, but not all doors travel enough to clear the frame - track design will be critical if you are that close. I also agree with scissor truss comments - you need a to find a way to get that opening higher. What happens when you replace your existing rig?

Looking to the future is important here.
 

Falcon67

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My door is 16x7. The height is only 6' 6" with the door fully up, and the trim takes 1" off the rough 7' tall opening. So you'd want it to follow the rafters AND make sure it completely cleared the trim when fully open. And as above - you'd need to come in on a flat driveway, that's pretty dang tight. Look around and see if there are "camper/car ports' in the neighborhood. Almost nobody here parks a camper indoors unless they have a giant farm building with 10' walls.
 
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maxpower29

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I just bought the camper last month so I really dont think I will be replacing it for a long time. Probably be in this house for 3-5 years so I do want to make it work. I went to my garage door and its exactly 7' clearance from a 7' door so thats why I figured it would work. I can also take the AC unit off for the winter and replace the gasket (about 30 bucks and not a big deal) to gain another 8 " so I am sure a 10' door is fine. I am going to start with calling the city and asking about allowing me to go 15.5 feet instead and then go from there. 15.5 would work for sure
 

NUTTSGT

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Perhaps a variance?

What do you mean?

I am going to start with calling the city and asking about allowing me to go 15.5 feet instead and then go from there. 15.5 would work for sure


This would be a variance. It's what I was alluding to in my previous post. Like I mentioned, before you start calling around, get your ducks in a row. If you have some drawings, plans, picture of your camper sitting out in front, measurements, you'll be more likely to get a straight answer and the AHJ* to work with you. Sometimes, you might get signed off right away, some places might require your abutting neighbors to sign off on the idea or it might need to go to a council meeting for approval. Be ready and prepared to answer any and all questions.





*AHJ= Authority having jurisdiction. It varies on location and fromplace to place. It might be a building dept, zoning office, HOA, fire dept. It could also be a state/province, county or city level office.
 

Falcon67

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>Probably be in this house for 3-5 years

If you are building from scratch, I don't see how you're going to not take a bath on that deal moving in 5 years. Unless resale rates there are really, really strong.

Not sure how it works in NS, but here in the states a "variance" requires hardship. Your camper sitting out in the rain isn't a hardship. If your neighbors have out buildings that exceed the height limitations for some reason, then you should be entitled to the same relief. If they do not, then very likely you are out of luck.
 

the GOAT

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side-opening-garage-doors-1476-sliding-garage-doors-550-x-267.jpg
 

bowhuntr311

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North Central Minnesota
Im in the boat with the scissor truss idea like some others on here. As far as the variance goes make sure you have every answer to every question ahead of time.

Good luck
 

Chris Edison

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Aug 23, 2016
Messages
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Ok so I have read this forum for a while on and off just for some help and ideas about different things, but I needed to create a profile and a post to get some serious help with our planning.
We are right now getting ready to build a semi detached house, live in one half and rent to other half. I want a garage similar to the one I have now ( 22x22 8.5 ft ceiling and 7 foot door) except a 24 x 24 would be perfect, but also I need it to be big enough to fit our new camper in. The camper's total height is 9 ft 11 inches to the top of the AC unit. So I would need a 10 ft door to fit it in. Sounds pretty simple except the by laws only allow me to have a total garage height from "established grade to highest point" of 15 ft with no pitch less than 4x12. So measuring my garage now it seems with a final product I will probably be closer 16 ft if I do a regular 11ft ceiling, 4x12 pitch. I have been stressing about what to do here because it seems so pointless not to be able to store our camper and spend hundreds a year on storage.
o.png

Are there any doors that will allow me to gain a few extra inches in ceiling height and bring it closer to 10.5-10.75 ft ceiling? Any custom trusses that will allow me to do this? If I go to a smaller like 22w x 24l or 20w x 24l will it bring the overall 4 x 12 pitch height low enough to be under 15 ft? I also wonder if I went a bit smaller how dumb it would look to somehow build a small workshop onto the side of it to give me more room and be able to fit everything I want in say a 18-20 ft wide garage....
-
Any input will help, thanks!

I took a gander at sissor trusses as well however Im not certain it would offer assistance. Despite everything I have to get a 10 ft entryway, and wouldnt regardless I require a higher roof?
 
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maxpower29

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Aug 21, 2016
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Halifax NS
>Probably be in this house for 3-5 years

If you are building from scratch, I don't see how you're going to not take a bath on that deal moving in 5 years. Unless resale rates there are really, really strong.

Not sure how it works in NS, but here in the states a "variance" requires hardship. Your camper sitting out in the rain isn't a hardship. If your neighbors have out buildings that exceed the height limitations for some reason, then you should be entitled to the same relief. If they do not, then very likely you are out of luck.
We build and then rent. Have done it for 6 years now and it's been pretty good. 4 owned currently. Trick is to build at 80% of estimated cost and you do so without a down-payment then. Well that's here in Ns anyways
 

kbs2244

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Nov 11, 2006
Messages
14,065
I got the same result as lakeroadster by using a roof beam type construction.
I have 10 foot walls and only went with a 8 foot door, but I could have gone to the bottom of the top plate.
Track angle matches the 4/12 roof and the door opens past the framed opening.

Or maybe move the AC unit?
 

bowhuntr311

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I took a gander at sissor trusses as well however Im not certain it would offer assistance. Despite everything I have to get a 10 ft entryway, and wouldnt regardless I require a higher roof?

If you put the 10foot door in the gable end in the center with a scissor truss you can get away with a 10 foot wall. I believe even with a 4x12 pitch he should still be able to getaway with the 15 foot max. If not perhaps a steel structure or seriously engineered truss will be required.
 

kbs2244

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I like rail type opener install on the sidewise door.
Maybe something that could be used on a gate install?
 

Toomanytools?

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855
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Washington
I'm with NUTTSGT, look at getting a variance, and yes have all your ducks in row. Going from 15' to 16' is not that big a deal. So is this a slide in truck camper? Once unloaded is it on a wheeled dolly you roll? I'm guessing you are taking into account the camper height and dolly, hate to be off when all done. Depending on construction if it's a concrete stem wall with a 10' wall on top you will end up taller than 10'.
 
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maxpower29

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Aug 21, 2016
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Location
Halifax NS
Thanks for all the ideas and comments. I think I'm going to start with for a variance first of about 6“, that will be enough after talking to the guy who is building it. If that doesn't work I will just have to sink the width down to about 20' which will give me an extra 8" from what I am working out here. See how that goes this week for planning
 

Crusarius

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Aug 22, 2013
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Upstate NY
go for more than you need. that way you are either covered for the long term or if you choose to keep it shorter you do not have to go back and try to change the variance.

One thing I have learned over the years if you build to just clear what you need something will happen that it will no longer work in a very short time frame.

Also keep in mind if there is snow or any other buildup on the driveway you lose height. if you have hills you lose height.
 
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