The VISES of Garage Journal

[Mark in Indiana]

All,

I just finished a restoration of a Bison-Bial 1250-150 vise. I'm pleased that it will be soon going to a new home.

Here is some information:
* Jaw size: 6"/150mm
* Maximum safe opening: 6 1/4"/180mm
* Jaw depth: 3 1/2"/90mm
* Weight: 52 lbs/23.6kg
* Estimated manufacture date: 4 / 1979


Here are the before & after pictures.

 

[paulm12]

looks great, what color paint is that?

 

[royce]

Hi Royce
First I will bury two long 3/8:16 Socket Head Cap Screws and pull the tail section back in place then plug the cap screw head later. The tail has spread .070 wider then the Static square opening. After drilling a hole at the end of the crack I will groove out the crack with a carbide burr. Pre heat then T.I.G. weld one pass, pre heat and do it again till it is finished. After welding I will peen the weld with a punch to stress relieve and pre heat again. I will cool the tail section as slow as I can but not bury it in sand like others do. I will use Eutectic Tig Tectic 224 I just love this stuff. It has bailed me out of cast welding many times and matches the casting better then pure Nickle. If the crack was cleaner then I might have considered brazing but I spent a good hour trying to cook out the years of oil and grease but there is still some in there plus I do not like the looks of brass. Why did Parker used two steel bars is a mystery, note how close the steel bars were to close to the surface.

<a href="https://visejaws.smugmug.com/Chas-Parker-Vises/i-rqZjfRb/A"><img src="https://photos.smugmug.com/Chas-Parker-Vises/i-rqZjfRb/0/M/Parker%20%2379-Dynamic%20Jaw%20Support%20%281%29-M.jpg" alt=""></a>

I am always up for suggestions especially from another welder. I can only rely on my experience. You my friend are a true welder me I am a Toolmaker that welds.

Thanks for taking the time to explain your procedure.
I don't think I have any suggestions for you,as I've never tig welded cast.
I've always brazed or stick welded it.
With that said,your crack stopping measures, joint prep,preheat,peening and post heat are the same as I would do if I was making the repair with stick, other than I would peen each pass.
I can see where tig welding would be the preferred method for a repair of this nature.
One last question if you don't mind, will you make this repair all from the easy side or do you have room to get the torch to the inside too?
Thanks again for the tutorial and if you can see your way clear to post a pic or two of the process, it would be wonderful.

Royce

 

[Mark in Indiana]

looks great, what color paint is that?

Paul,
Thanks for the compliment. The color is Rustloeum Hammered Verde Green. It's close to the original factory color.

 

[bagged89s10]

Found a Parker 958

Too bad the price is too rich for my blood.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/142105603255

 

[Shiftless]

Jz: Your flat nosed Reed is now looking sweet. Great job! Is it getting along well with its English cousins bolted to your benches?

 

[va.grouseman]

Bagged, it says "Make Offer".---You might get it for a couple hundred bucks.

 

[GlugGlug]

I picked up this Wilton/Snap-on 1705 at an auto repair shop auction for $5. The underside of the column is dated 1-89. Apparently no one else realized there was red Snap-on paint under the grunge and surface rust, or it was too gone for them to care. I have some questions, and I don't want to clutter this thread with responses - so if you have any ideas, please post them in this thread:

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=338343

There is only one main jaw and one pipe jaw. Three of the jaw bolts are broken. Someone did a poor job of grinding one for removal - they smeared the adjacent metal so it is difficult to tell where the bolt ends and the vise begins. This is my first electrolysis project and the improvement around the broken bolts has been really dramatic.

I won't be painting this until the bolt issues are resolved. I haven't found much written about ways to prevent flash rust after removal from the bath. With engine blocks, I have always used WD40 to displace the water, and then compressed air. I guess I'll just need to plan on another detergent bath before painting, to get the oil out. But I can't help but wonder if there isn't a better way to go from bath to paint with minimal effort - at least for other projects.

And how about the water that is in the hollow jaws? How do I get that out and protect the insides from rust? I realize they aren't going to rust through from the inside in our lifetime, but there must be some best practice there. My access to the inside of the static jaw may only be via the pipe jaw bolt hole (not sure).

The anvil is in rough shape. I'm not sure what I'll do about that. But for now, it's all about those bolts. I'm not yet sure how I'm going to solve that.

Thanks for any help!

 

[Outlawmws]

Coat with BLO (Boiled linseed oil) as you can paint over that (it's a component in most paints...)

Broken Bolts, start with a left hand drill. if you are lucky, the drill may spin it out. if not then go to an easy out...

The anvil is tough: belt sander, but that's a LOT of damage/wear...

 

[jreb10]

Post electrolysis I hit the piece with a weak phosphoric acid solution, after brushing off the black oxide from the electrolysis. It will foam and bubble in spots.

I let it dry and then use a wire brush by hand to remove the residue. The treatment is said to form a coating on the metal that prevents rusting, and I have left pieces treated this way for 6 months with no flash rust.

I hit it with a scotchbrite pad by hand right before wiping it down with lacquer thinner before painting.

 

[Fretters]

Stand the vice on end and put some vinegar into that divot from the grinder. After a hour or so, that should make it more easily visible as to exactly where the screw stub is.

Pour a kettle full of boiling water into and onto it when you remove it from the vat, if you want to improve drying time. A bit of flash rust is nowt to worry about. A rub down with a solvent soaked rag will usually remove most of it.

 

[bagged89s10]

Bagged, it says "Make Offer".---You might get it for a couple hundred bucks.

Someone bought it, wasn't me.

 

[va.grouseman]

Yep Bagged, either they paid the $1250.00, or the seller accepted the $200.00.---Or something there about.

 

[trijeff]

Considering what a new Wilton C3 or 800S goes for, $1250 is a good price on big old iron imo

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[joe.striper]

Considering what a new Wilton C3 or 800S goes for, $1250 is a good price on big old iron imo

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But no pics of the jawz and they aint replaceable....

 

[bagged89s10]

But no pics of the jawz and they aint replaceable....

Parker jaws are renewable so if they aren't cracked, she's a keeper.

 

[CrotalusAtrox]

I think bagged and Joe Striper should do a Vise build off kind of like a biker build off.

 

[Outlawmws]

Considering what a new Wilton C3 or 800S goes for, $1250 is a good price on big old iron imo

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So were you the buyer?

 

[joe.striper]

Parker jaws are renewable so if they aren't cracked, she's a keeper.

Really Veeps? Whos gonna renew them? DR Scott? Your going to ship a 350 lb vise to CO, pay Dr Scott, and ship that big ******* back?

My point was that when I looked at that vise I didnt see any jaw close ups.

As to a vise build off, I'd gladly beat the hell out of Veeps. 3" Wilton swivel base vises? No replacing jaws, and we need to build spindle handles, swivel locks and paint and polish.

 

[oldldh]

I'm sure Reverend Scott would love to whittle on your jaws...

Just slap a couple of stamps on that wee beastie...

And drop it in a mail box...

Simple really...

 

[bulletpruf]

Coat with BLO (Boiled linseed oil) as you can paint over that (it's a component in most paints...)

Broken Bolts, start with a left hand drill. if you are lucky, the drill may spin it out. if not then go to an easy out...

The anvil is tough: belt sander, but that's a LOT of damage/wear...

This^^^.

I would also use some heat and Kroil on the broken bolts, along with the LH drill bits. Worst case scenario, you end up with helicoils, and that's not a bad deal.

 

[bagged89s10]

Really Veeps? Whos gonna renew them? DR Scott? Your going to ship a 350 lb vise to CO, pay Dr Scott, and ship that big ******* back?



My point was that when I looked at that vise I didnt see any jaw close ups.



As to a vise build off, I'd gladly beat the hell out of Veeps. 3" Wilton swivel base vises? No replacing jaws, and we need to build spindle handles, swivel locks and paint and polish.

Hand files and sandpaper only.

 

[va.grouseman]

Considering what a new Wilton C3 or 800S goes for, $1250 is a good price on big old iron imo

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Yes Trijeff, some C3s and 800Ss are around $3600.00, but they are SWIVELERS.---Who wouldn't pay $2350.00 more for a big swivel base?

Sorry Old.

 

[vertguy]

Thanks to this thread, I have been looking for a 5 plus inch vise for a while now and this one popped up on CL Thurs night. And the seller ended up being less than 10 minutes from the house. The vise seems to be very clean, including the jaws, original pivot handle, etc. Lots of questions coming when I get some time with it, but too much going on right now.

The seller has a garage that would make any GJ'er jealous as it is filled with tools and machinery (he is a mobile heavy equipment mechanic)... with everything from a Bridgeport mill, large metal lathe, camel hump DP w/20hp 3ph motor, etc. (many of which he insisted on showing how well they ran). The kicker was his very impressive vise collection (lost count on the total) including several big vises like a 6 inch Wilton bullet and a monster (think it was 8 incher) sitting in the corner. If I did not have plans with the wife yesterday, I could have stayed and talked tools with the guy all afternoon. But a good guy to know as he was very willing to help with any small machining needs

 

[dngrmse]

Post electrolysis I hit the piece with a weak phosphoric acid solution, after brushing off the black oxide from the electrolysis. It will foam and bubble in spots.

I let it dry and then use a wire brush by hand to remove the residue. The treatment is said to form a coating on the metal that prevents rusting, and I have left pieces treated this way for 6 months with no flash rust.

I hit it with a scotchbrite pad by hand right before wiping it down with lacquer thinner before painting.

Thanks for the tip Jreb, what ratio acid:water do you use?

 

[Thrumcap]

Here's a Starrett Athol No. 924 4" vise from the rounds this morning. $25 i'll go for the hammered finish paint on this one.





Thrumcap

 

[rusty65]

I have a id this vise for everyone. I won the best offer on this vise I think it's possibly a British made Parkinson but want opinions please.




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[nh_yota]

Just picked this big boy up at an estate sale for $20:




I don't know the value of it but I figured since it's a Columbian vise that was made in the USA it was probably a good deal. It says D6 D56 on the side of it and I can't find much information on that specific model but the jaws are 6.5" wide though.

 

[mike_paxton]

A friend was out doing garage sales and spotted a large vise, which turned out not to be for sale.

He knows I like to see the old vises and so shot and sent me one pic.

Passing it along as an FYI.

Mike

 

[CrotalusAtrox]

Thanks to this thread, I have been looking for a 5 plus inch vise for a while now and this one popped up on CL Thurs night. And the seller ended up being less than 10 minutes from the house. The vise seems to be very clean, including the jaws, original pivot handle, etc. Lots of questions coming when I get some time with it, but too much going on right now.

The seller has a garage that would make any GJ'er jealous as it is filled with tools and machinery (he is a mobile heavy equipment mechanic)... with everything from a Bridgeport mill, large metal lathe, camel hump DP w/20hp 3ph motor, etc. (many of which he insisted on showing how well they ran). The kicker was his very impressive vise collection (lost count on the total) including several big vises like a 6 inch Wilton bullet and a monster (think it was 8 incher) sitting in the corner. If I did not have plans with the wife yesterday, I could have stayed and talked tools with the guy all afternoon. But a good guy to know as he was very willing to help with any small machining needs

Well that is a dandy

 

[trijeff]

So were you the buyer?

T'was not me, one 8" vise is enough ... and really maybe more than enough [emoji6]

 

[G-ManBart]

Thanks to this thread, I have been looking for a 5 plus inch vise for a while now and this one popped up on CL Thurs night. And the seller ended up being less than 10 minutes from the house. The vise seems to be very clean, including the jaws, original pivot handle, etc. Lots of questions coming when I get some time with it, but too much going on right now.

The seller has a garage that would make any GJ'er jealous as it is filled with tools and machinery (he is a mobile heavy equipment mechanic)... with everything from a Bridgeport mill, large metal lathe, camel hump DP w/20hp 3ph motor, etc. (many of which he insisted on showing how well they ran). The kicker was his very impressive vise collection (lost count on the total) including several big vises like a 6 inch Wilton bullet and a monster (think it was 8 incher) sitting in the corner. If I did not have plans with the wife yesterday, I could have stayed and talked tools with the guy all afternoon. But a good guy to know as he was very willing to help with any small machining needs

Nice find!

 

[G-ManBart]

Here's a Starrett Athol No. 924 4" vise from the rounds this morning. $25 i'll go for the hammered finish paint on this one.

$25? You ****!

 

[jrobb316]

Thanks to this thread, I have been looking for a 5 plus inch vise for a while now and this one popped up on CL Thurs night. And the seller ended up being less than 10 minutes from the house. The vise seems to be very clean, including the jaws, original pivot handle, etc. Lots of questions coming when I get some time with it, but too much going on right now.

The seller has a garage that would make any GJ'er jealous as it is filled with tools and machinery (he is a mobile heavy equipment mechanic)... with everything from a Bridgeport mill, large metal lathe, camel hump DP w/20hp 3ph motor, etc. (many of which he insisted on showing how well they ran). The kicker was his very impressive vise collection (lost count on the total) including several big vises like a 6 inch Wilton bullet and a monster (think it was 8 incher) sitting in the corner. If I did not have plans with the wife yesterday, I could have stayed and talked tools with the guy all afternoon. But a good guy to know as he was very willing to help with any small machining needs

Very nice. I think that's been on CL for a while now. Looks super clean.

 

[Provincial]

$25? You ****!

Yes, and it was Canadian dollars!!!!!

 

[Fretters]

I have a id this vise for everyone. I won the best offer on this vise I think it's possibly a British made Parkinson but want opinions please.

That's not a model of Parkinson I've seen before. Do you have any decent photo's of the labels/stickers?

 

[Brorex]

I found these 2 pipe vises today. Ones a rigid the other is a Crane Bros. Mfg. NO. 1 Can't find very much info online about Crane vises though someone here might be able to give some info. Also a IMC small bench vise. Can't imagine it's anything special.


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[va.grouseman]

trijeff, T'was not me, one 8" vise is enough ... and really maybe more than enough [emoji6]

:

 

[jreb10]

Thanks for the tip Jreb, what ratio acid:water do you use?

Ha Ha! It sort of happens naturally. I have the acid (Phosphoric Prep & Etch, by Klean Strip) in a spray bottle. I pull the part from the E-tank, rinse it off, hand wire brush the newly formed black oxide off, rinse again, and while still wet use the spray bottle.

It does not have to be real scientific. I think you could hit the piece dry if you wanted to.

 

[zkling]

Yes Trijeff, some C3s and 800Ss are around $3600.00, but they are SWIVELERS.---Who wouldn't pay $2350.00 more for a big swivel base?

Sorry Old.

Way off, C3's are ~$1600, 800s is right at $2600 shipped. USA made, lifetime warranty....just bought a 800s for work.