Liftmaster 8500- install before or after drywall?

[Dave-H]

Hi all -

I'm trying to figure this out from the documentation but having a little trouble so I thought I'd ask here.

I have ordinary 2x4 studs, and a brand new Cloplay insulated door. I want to install a wall mount opener so that I can get rid of the center rail and use that ceiling space for something.

I am going to spray foam/fill the wall cavities, then drywall and paint the place.

My questions:

- is there any benefit to installing this thing before or after the drywall is hungry? Either way is fine and I love doing things in a good order for a clean install.

- I'm also doing electrical this week. Is it worth putting a new outlet right next to the opener? How long is the cord?

Any thoughts much appreciated!!

Thanks!

 

[pattenp]

Rough in the control wires then insulate and drywall for a clean look for the wiring. Place outlet close because the cord is only about 6ft long.

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[Dave-H]

Thanks for that input.

I am going to run the the control wires on the top of a rafter, so it should be well hidden. Also, I'm planning to run the wires that connect the electric eye emitter and receiver behind the drywall, just to keep things as clean as I can.

In your pic, it looks like the opener is not actually mounted to the wall - is it on the metal supports? It doesn't look like the installs I've seen online!

 

[csp]

If your concern is spacing when mounting to a wall, just attach it to a scrap piece of drywall or plywood mounted to the studs. Then you can pull the scrap piece when the real drywall goes up and everything goes back up in the same place it was at before.

 

[Dave-H]

That's not a bad idea. But, is there really any reason that I wouldn't want to hang the drywall first and then install the opener? It's definitely a good idea to run the wires beforehand, just to keep things looking neat, but I guess I'm just looking out for anything that would make it easier to install it first, then drywall it.

Sounds like it would be just fine to install it after drywall is there.

 

[ford33]

You may want to run small diameter conduit or flexible tubing inside the walls for the control wires. If you need to replace the wiring at some point it will be very easy to run a new wire.

 

[rharman]

Drywall first. Pre-run the wires if you want. Since you have things open, figure out where it will mount and place blocking there now.

I just installed one in my garage and had to put up a 3/4" ply backer to span across studs. The landing point for the Liftmaster bracket was just drywall.

 

[DC73]

If your concern is spacing when mounting to a wall, just attach it to a scrap piece of drywall or plywood mounted to the studs. Then you can pull the scrap piece when the real drywall goes up and everything goes back up in the same place it was at before.

This is the best answer if you have a definite need to install the opener well ahead of installing drywall. Otherwise, install the drywall first.

DC

 

[pattenp]

Thanks for that input.

In your pic, it looks like the opener is not actually mounted to the wall - is it on the metal supports? It doesn't look like the installs I've seen online!

The opener doesn't mount to wall per say, it hangs on the torsion tube and has a small bracket that attaches on the bottom end of the opener and that bracket attaches to the wall or in my case the goal post to keep the opener from spinning.

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[dave*99]

The opener doesn't mount to wall per say, it hangs on the torsion tube and has a small bracket that attaches on the bottom end of the opener and that bracket attaches to the wall or in my case the goal post to keep the opener from spinning.

View media item 63538

This is the best response. As shown, the leg of the 8500 attaches to the same board the track is mounted on. Run your wires etc, but don't concern yourself with the drywall as a mounting point for the drive unit.