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joe.striper

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Sep 13, 2013
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agawam, ma
Normally I pass on Vanderman vises. Exposed screw is a big turn off for me, BUT there is always an exception. Here is my exception. A Vanderman #3 in phenomenal shape. Perfect jaws, perfect handle and a stunning base.... paid $150. Also has rollers with locks.

I plan to get a piece of steel cut for the top and refinish the entire vise. The seller also made wooden jaws inserts for the vise for wood use. Im planning to have my brother make me new ones out of oak.
 

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JGClark

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Sep 4, 2016
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Some help please with this one? Jaws are 3.5", 6" tall at base and 10" long. I got it at a yard sale and would like to know the manufacturer. The space between the arrows is very rough. (maybe broken) Haven't mounted it yet and hope this will not be an issue.
 

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Outlawmws

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any other markings?

Bottom line is that it is an exposed screw homeowners vise. The slide and dynamic jaw are sprung a bit to each other, and probably doesn't weigh in excess of 12 lbs or so.
 

Fretters

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any other markings?

Bottom line is that it is an exposed screw homeowners vise. The slide and dynamic jaw are sprung a bit to each other, and probably doesn't weigh in excess of 12 lbs or so.

I'm thinking the bottom section of the front jaw, which encloses the steel slide, has snapped off, leading to the sprung jaw appearance.
 

Mark in Indiana

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All,
Here is the last of my Polish vise restorations. This one is a custom order that was a pleasure for me to create. The vise is a Rapid brand. It was manufactured by Bison-Bial for the American market. Before & After pictures below.

Here's some information:
Jaw size: 6"
Maximum safe opening: 6 1/2"
Jaw depth: 3 5/8"
Weight: 56#
Estimated date of manufacture: 3 / 1976

This will also be the last restoration that I will do for awhile. :( I have to finish a kitchen update, Finish some major work on my cargo van and install some new windows. Not as much fun, or rewarding as vise work.
 

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Outlawmws

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I'm thinking the bottom section of the front jaw, which encloses the steel slide, has snapped off, leading to the sprung jaw appearance.

Looking closer, you are right.

That one is a candidate for being tuned into bookends. (do a search at least one member has made some very cool bookends, cutting the vise so in use it looks like its clamping the books, sort of...)

In fact I think it's Mark in Indiana... (see above)

Mark, Looks great!
 
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trijeff

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Northern Cali
Wow, great work Mark! Good luck with your other projects and get back to vising soon

Sent from my SM-G900P using Tapatalk
 

joe.striper

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agawam, ma
Heres a Wilton 500s I just finished. Made the handle myself (my first one). Original jaws. I really like this model and production year. The dynamic jaws is cast as one piece vs later models which are pinned.
 

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Lee Celtic

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336
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Llanberis, North Wales UK
Some help please with this one? Jaws are 3.5", 6" tall at base and 10" long. I got it at a yard sale and would like to know the manufacturer. The space between the arrows is very rough. (maybe broken) Haven't mounted it yet and hope this will not be an issue.

attachment.php


could do with more photos but as it seems to have a slot in the side of the base, I'd say it used to be a swivel vice and someone after loosing the base stuck the bolt in the middle hole where the base used to bolt on..

Also looks like the numbers are part numbers for ordering the fixed and dynamic separately.. could this be military ? I know when we used to make climbing gear for the army we didn't add a makers name to avoid becoming a target.. we just added part numbers. just a thought.
 

Mark in Indiana

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Fetters, Outlaw, Trijeff,
Thanks for the complements.
My vise sabbatical has come about now that the temperatures are more reasonable to get other household & truck stuff done.

JGClark,
Welcome to the forum. Although your vise is mortally wounded, it would be a great candidate for a folk art project. Below is a picture of a bookend set that I created last winter. I'm sure that you could create an upcycle art project of your vise...thus keeping it out of the scrapyard.
 

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bagged89s10

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Mar 13, 2005
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Location
CT
Normally I pass on Vanderman vises. Exposed screw is a big turn off for me, BUT there is always an exception. Here is my exception. A Vanderman #3 in phenomenal shape. Perfect jaws, perfect handle and a stunning base.... paid $150. Also has rollers with locks.



I plan to get a piece of steel cut for the top and refinish the entire vise. The seller also made wooden jaws inserts for the vise for wood use. Im planning to have my brother make me new ones out of oak.



Heres a Wilton 500s I just finished. Made the handle myself (my first one). Original jaws. I really like this model and production year. The dynamic jaws is cast as one piece vs later models which are pinned.



Nice stuff Joe! Do you mean that's the first handle you made where you peened the ends? How did you make the ball ends?
 

joe.striper

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Sep 13, 2013
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agawam, ma
Looks great. How did you make the handle?


Reverend Scott explained it to me. Basically you put a shoulder on your handle shaft and drill out your ball so the handle comes out past the end of the ball. Map gas heat the end til its cherry red the hammer it on your anvil til its peens over. Then grind and polish. Trust me it is time consuming and you need a lathe, but i really like replacing the handles when I redo the vises. I made that one longer as well than factory.

Here's another little one I just finished for a 2" Keystone vise I'm working on. The first pic in with my truck key. 2nd pic is with the original handle next to it. I'm no expert, but I'm getting better one vise at a time. I still have a long way to go...
 

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joe.striper

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I apologize for monopolizing the board.....one more post and a question, has anyone here ever replaced the jaws on a Vanderman? They appear to be pinned front to back and then peened over. I'd like to tear them out and machine them clean then tap the towers and replace the studs but I dont want to destroy the vise. Mine has a patent date of 1891....
 

KMScott

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Daufuskie Island, South Carolina
Thanks for taking the time to explain your procedure.

One last question if you don't mind, will you make this repair all from the easy side or do you have room to get the torch to the inside too?
Thanks again for the tutorial and if you can see your way clear to post a pic or two of the process, it would be wonderful.
Royce

Hey Royce
I posted a couple pic's and discussed my steps for this repair in the Vise Repair Thread that you can see here http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=5965636#post5965636 on post # 3313. I thought it might be a better place to post this repair.

Just a tease.

<a href="https://visejaws.smugmug.com/Jaw-Cutting/i-jtJPvbg/A"><img src="https://photos.smugmug.com/Jaw-Cutting/i-jtJPvbg/0/M/Parker%2079%20crack%20repair%20%282%29-M.jpg" alt=""></a>
 

Nightshift

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London, Ontario
Heres a Wilton 500s I just finished. Made the handle myself (my first one). Original jaws. I really like this model and production year. The dynamic jaws is cast as one piece vs later models which are pinned.
Joe, nice job on the Willy 500s. I have 2 of them (both 1971s) but painted them hammered Verde Green. But I do really like that light blue you used also. I usually paint my Palmgrens that color. Bill
 
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Oregon rock crusher

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I apologize for monopolizing the board.....one more post and a question, has anyone here ever replaced the jaws on a Vanderman? They appear to be pinned front to back and then peened over. I'd like to tear them out and machine them clean then tap the towers and replace the studs but I dont want to destroy the vise. Mine has a patent date of 1891....

Hi Joe, I have not tried to remove the jaws on a Vanderman but from the looks of it the main jaw inserts are riveted in. looks like a flat top rivet on the bite side with a nicely formed dome at the back of the jaws. The pipe jaws have a screw and two dowel pins securing them. I picked up a #3 this summer also with the 1891 patent date. Ed.
 

autopts

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Heres a Wilton 500s I just finished. Made the handle myself (my first one). Original jaws. I really like this model and production year. The dynamic jaws is cast as one piece vs later models which are pinned.

That came out super nice Joe.
 

Nightshift

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That came out super nice Joe.
Hey there Nick, good to see you still here supervising us viceaholics :) I just picked up 2 very nice York bullets last week ... the inspiration for Wilton. A 125 swivel and a smaller 80. I gotta say when you set them beside a Wilton bullet, the Willie is sure an improved version over a York. Do you know what color they are supposed to be? Looks like most of them I see on a Google search are an orange-red.

Maybe I should paint them verde green hammered or light blue hammered like Joe's so they look like Willie's older brother. Cheers, Bill
 
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GETRIDAONE

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Auburn, GA
I cleaned up this Fisher chain drive #3 It has 5 1/4" jaws and weighs about 80 lbs. I had to take a bend out of the leg and put a ball on the foot. It looks like black paint but the finish is
liquid stove black, then liquid shoe polish with BLO over the top. I read that Fisher stopped making the numbers 1-2-3 by about 1920 and continued only with the three larger sizes. The old vise has done its share of work and has wore threads but will still hold anything you want to put in it.
Have a great holiday !!!
 

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Hounddog

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That Fisher is AWESOME...never seen one before. Very Cool!! Beautiful Resto...
The liquid shoe polish threw me...what's that all about?
 

GETRIDAONE

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I had planned on just the stove black but when you put the linseed oil on it smeared the finish. I used a piece of cast iron and tried different things before actually putting it on the vise. The shoe polish dried to a slight shine and didn't come off with the BLO on top. I put it out in the sun in the afternoon for three days to get it dry.

First pic is no shoe polish
Second is polish and BLO
Third close up of finish
 

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autopts

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All,
Here is the last of my Polish vise restorations. This one is a custom order that was a pleasure for me to create. The vise is a Rapid brand. It was manufactured by Bison-Bial for the American market. Before & After pictures below.

That one's a beauty Mark. I love that color.
 

autopts

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I cleaned up this Fisher chain drive #3 It has 5 1/4" jaws and weighs about 80 lbs. I had to take a bend out of the leg and put a ball on the foot. It looks like black paint but the finish is
liquid stove black, then liquid shoe polish with BLO over the top. I read that Fisher stopped making the numbers 1-2-3 by about 1920 and continued only with the three larger sizes. The old vise has done its share of work and has wore threads but will still hold anything you want to put in it.
Have a great holiday !!!

Wow!! That's a show piece!! I would think that's got to be worth a good bit of change. Awesome job!
 

joe.striper

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agawam, ma
I cleaned up this Fisher chain drive #3 It has 5 1/4" jaws and weighs about 80 lbs. I had to take a bend out of the leg and put a ball on the foot. It looks like black paint but the finish is
liquid stove black, then liquid shoe polish with BLO over the top. I read that Fisher stopped making the numbers 1-2-3 by about 1920 and continued only with the three larger sizes. The old vise has done its share of work and has wore threads but will still hold anything you want to put in it.
Have a great holiday !!!

Wow that came out great. Ive had 4 of those the last 2 years. Really, really cool vises but I never liked them as users, They are just so s-l-o-w to close. Of course, having said that I'd cut off a finger for a #1:lol_hitti

On FB there is a Fisher-Norris museum page run by Joshua Kavitt. Check it out.
 

GlugGlug

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Thanks for the suggestions on this project-vise.

I was able to get the three broken jaw bolts out! I think the elecrolysis helped. Along with the jaw as confirmation, it allowed me to easily find center on the smeared one. I punched them well (fortunately they were fairly soft), did a rigid setup, and was able to get them drilled through fairly easily. The drilling was all on - the threads weren't touched. There was significant space beyond the bolts, allowing PB to soak from behind. For the smeared bolt, and one other, I relieved around the threads at the face - otherwise they would have likely hung up due to interference. Extraction involved a fair bit of PB, lots of waiting, a bit of heat. On all three, the small easy-out felt right at the limit of breaking. It remains to be discovered how strong the threads are. This was great experience for more prized projects.

I want to spray it, but I have that terrible anvil to deal with. The iron in this vise is not at all suitable for use as an anvil - especially if someone is hammering on the edge. And Wilton's decision to overhang that edge, unsupported, beyond the body of the vise? Well, I guess that leaves you something to grind back when it does break.

I don't plan on keeping this vise. It will either go to ebay-etc, or go as a gift. The anvil condition is a challenge for selling. Also, I only have one pipe jaw and one main jaw. I need an appropriate solution there. It might be shop made aluminu, or smooth steel. Or maybe I'll find someone with some donor parts (or maybe I'm the one with the donor parts?).

I think a better than new anvil repair would have a steel plate machined with a relief on the backside, and then slots carefully sized and cut on the inside edges of the relief. That new anvil face would slide over the lip of the existing anvil. I think that'd be pretty slick in a case where justified. Silver soldering a new plate on top is an option - ideally the plate would have a fitted rellief pocket to locate over and hide the edges.

I want this project done - the easy and quick path seems to be smoothing mostly leveling the top, whack off those broken edges, declare victory, and move on. Those eroded edges extend inward a fair bit and I may end up with a bevel there.

I also see white material inside the hollow jaws from phosphorizing. Any tricks to get rid of that? It's not such a concern with this vise, but for a more important vise, it would be. It'd be neat to fill the hollow jaw with some steel shot, plug the holes, and slowly tumble it on a motor. I do like to let machines do the work. Though tumbling a vise by hand all afternoon would really help build the upper body strength I'll need when claiming my 8" vises.

I have been thinking verde green rather than snap-on red, and wilton decals rather than snap-on. On the other hand, maybe it has more value as a 1989 Snap-On. Suggestions on a proper red rattle can?

 

GETRIDAONE

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Joe, I have been in E mail contact with Josh and I mentioned the I had the 350S bench vise also. I sent a picture of it and he said he had never seen one with woodworking jaws on it. He had a sales ad with the size and weights on it. Mine is mis-marked as a 350 but has 4 1/2" jaws which would make it a 450 and the weight is less than the advertisement shows ?

Thanks for the comments !!
 

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Mark in Indiana

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Glug,
Welcome to the forum.
That's quite a challenged vise that you have. All I can do is provide my own opinions, if I had that vise:

1. As far as the "phosphorizing" problem, I've never seen that in a vise. I assume that it is a contaminant that you want removed. Being inside the hollow areas of the jaws, a powered mechanical brush may not work. Sand blasting may do it. Otherwise, it may not be an issue. If you can, please post a picture of this condition.

2. The paint: I always stay with a common name brand (Krylon, Rustoleum, etc). The quality is good, colors are easy to get, and you will have a easier time touching it up if needed.

3. Vise anvils should NEVER be used as an anvil, unless you're stamping brass tags. You may be able to get away with sanding the anvil surface down with a belt sander to give it a brushed metal finish and clean up the edges. Here's are B & A pictures of a Lakeside vise that had the jaw tops destroyed. I sanded down the tops with a portable belt sander and made new jaws for it.

Please keep us posted on your progress.
 

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rusty65

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Pekin,IL
Just got done doing a repaint on my newly acquired union parker 974B I picked up a week ago for 100 bucks. The jaws are great and the screw and nut have very minimum wear really going to enjoy this vise
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joe.striper

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agawam, ma
Joe, I have been in E mail contact with Josh and I mentioned the I had the 350S bench vise also. I sent a picture of it and he said he had never seen one with woodworking jaws on it. He had a sales ad with the size and weights on it. Mine is mis-marked as a 350 but has 4 1/2" jaws which would make it a 450 and the weight is less than the advertisement shows ?

Thanks for the comments !!


Ooooohhhh...sweet
 

joe.striper

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agawam, ma
Last project this weekend. Holland Keystone 2" fixed base vise. I got this a couple of months ago and just finished it.

Hammerite solid red paint. Manufactured a new handle and mounted it on an oak board.
 

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GlugGlug

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Jun 17, 2013
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Hi Mark,

Thanks for the suggestion. Sanding the anvil with the belt sander has gone okay. Though my sander has side clearance issues that top me from using it in both directions. So it is hard to keep it even. This task begs for a proper fixture (angle plate) so it could be done on a table belt sander. I also need to go deeper to get past all of the wear, or try something more forgiving, like a flap wheel, and settle for a surface that won't be flat. I may try and fly cut the surface. The other challenge is cleaning up the edges. They are so uneven that I'm thinking of trimming the outline with an end mill.

Question - the end ring of the Wilton, that is pinned in - I'd like to paint that in place, so there is no seam. But my preference is to oil it when installing it, rather than leaving it dry. If I oil it, I know the oil will wick and mess up the paint at the seam. I suppose I could install it with some anti-seize. What's the best practice there?
 

Mark in Indiana

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Glug,
If I'm correctly picturing wht you're describing, I'd say that antiseize is the best lube. I've restored only one Wilton Bullet. It was just a "clean/paint/polish" restoration. Also, I had access to a sand blaster that was loaded with 10mil glass beads. So there was little disassembly. There will be more informed answers by others.
 

va.grouseman

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Mar 26, 2011
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Southern-Central VA.
Well I got my German vise a couple of days ago.---Came from across the pond.---And it's a monster.---Had to use a railroad jack for reference, a Bud Lite just wouldn't do.---I like odd and it's the first one I've seen that has a banded brake system on the rotating head.---Works by cam action increasing pressure on the bands.---I think it's German, but the paint is so thick I can barely make out some of the letters, and the description the seller gave was in German so I don't know what he was saying about it.
 

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oldldh

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May 22, 2012
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Fairhope, AL
Say "Bird Guy"...

Does it say???...

"Das es GROSSER CLAMPER"...

I'm not sure, but, I think that's how you say...

"This is a Big *** Vise" in German...

I think...

Maybe...

(Since it is Election Season --- I see that, not only is it a "Swivlin' B@#tard". but it is a "Left Leaning B@#tard", too...It must be a Progressive Democrat...)
 
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zoomieport

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The Mall City
Well I got my German vise a couple of days ago.---Came from across the pond.---And it's a monster.---Had to use a railroad jack for reference, a Bud Lite just wouldn't do.---I like odd and it's the first one I've seen that has a banded brake system on the rotating head.---Works by cam action increasing pressure on the bands.---I think it's German, but the paint is so thick I can barely make out some of the letters, and the description the seller gave was in German so I don't know what he was saying about it.

Bud light always works for me! :lol_hitti
 
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