Atlas 1020 Drill Press Refresh

[Chicken]

I've been browsing CL for a few months looking for a US made 'old' bench top drill press. Last weekend I found this Atlas 1020 that looked like a winner. My first drill press, but not my first rodeo with good ole USA made tools.

I have decided (for now) it is in good enough shape for a light refresh vs. a full resto. [read: I am not painting it] Seems to be all original and only missing the return spring cover.

I do however have a few questions, primarily regarding lubricant for the re-assembly side of things.

I can't host pics on the work PC, so attachments will have to do. First pictures once I got it home (1 , 2).

Picture 3 - highlighting the grease cup. I understand its function, but am not sure how to go about packing the space between the bearings as shown in picture 3b. The shaft between bearings (picture 4), splined internally, has a hole to let grease in to grease spindle. There was a good bit of grease in here the had become quite dried up, though it was not 'completely packed'.

I would think in order for the grease cup to effectively grease the spindle, the space between the bearings would need to be full in order to force grease through the small holes onto the spindle?

Also, is wheel bearing grease OK? red and tacky? moly EP, etc?

Continuing the topic of grease. Is grease or oil used on the splines of the quill and mating piece (drawing a bank on name)? I plan to use way oil on 'smooth' portion of quill, though the 'gear; portion may require a grease?

Sorry for lengthy post. Thanks in advance for input.

 

[Chicken]

Nobody?

I've seen enough drill press resto's on here to know we've got some experts!

 

[Davefr]

Is that a grease fitting in image #3? I would also ask that question over at OWWM.com.

However I'd also remove the spindle bearings and replace all 4 bearings assuming they'd still available. Those are very old bearings and I think it's a good idea to replace them. Plan B would be to remove the bearings shields and clean them thoroughly and see if there's any detectable roughness. If not them you can repack them and I'd use a synthetic grease that's a little lighter then generic thick wheel bearing grease. (Mobil 1, Amsoil, Royal Purple)

I was also curious about quill rack lubrication and most guy said to keep it dry or maybe a very, very light wiping of oil or superlube. Don't grease it heavily!! Grease will attract dirt/debris and make a mess and impede quill movement.

 

[Chicken]

Is that a grease fitting in image #3? I would also ask that question over at OWWM.com.

However I'd also remove the spindle bearings and replace all 4 bearings assuming they'd still available. Those are very old bearings and I think it's a good idea to replace them. Plan B would be to remove the bearings shields and clean them thoroughly and see if there's any detectable roughness. If not them you can repack them and I'd use a synthetic grease that's a little lighter then generic thick wheel bearing grease. (Mobil 1, Amsoil, Royal Purple)

I was also curious about quill rack lubrication and most guy said to keep it dry or maybe a very, very light wiping of oil or superlube. Don't grease it heavily!! Grease will attract dirt/debris and make a mess and impede quill movement.

Yes, image 3 shows grease fitting location. it is a cup that holds grease and as you screw it on it forces grease grease out the other end. Not a fancy new zirc fitting.

Good point on the bearings. Everything rotates smoothly but it's worth looking into.

Thanks for the info, might have to join OWWM, not too familiar w/ the forum.

 

[shannonw]

i’m wondering about that grease/oil cup? i don’t recall seeing one with those and mine didn’t have that either but a quick google i see the part. Low serial number, maybe that’s earlier models and it’s in one of the owwm docs somewhere? mines like 14474 serial

I followed franklee’s faq and just used superlube on mating pieces quill,etc.

 

[shannonw]

I suppose those you needed to periodically push grease into those bearings mine are sealed and at some point they switched to sealed bearings, i see all the older atlases seem to have that.

 

[shannonw]

I remembered something from your pic. Are those bearings on that spindle sealed, they look it? I’m thinking they’ve been replaced, or maybe atlas hadn’t changed over the casting yet. I’d think they need to be open bearings for the grease cup?

Check out franklee's post and pic here:

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=4633471

 

[Chicken]

i’m wondering about that grease/oil cup?....

I followed franklee’s faq and just used superlube on mating pieces quill,etc.

It's all original. I'll have to dig more into franklee's thread.

I suppose those you needed to periodically push grease into those bearings mine are sealed and at some point they switched to sealed bearings, i see all the older atlases seem to have that.

I remembered something from your pic. Are those bearings on that spindle sealed, they look it? I’m thinking they’ve been replaced, or maybe atlas hadn’t changed over the casting yet. I’d think they need to be open bearings for the grease cup?

Check out franklee's post and pic here:

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=4633471

Read your second post last night and tried to find some info on what bearings this thing had originally. Thanks for the link (again I need to read that thread in detail it seems).

My assumption is that the bearings were in fact changed (Norma 205 pp and SKF 200 rs) as it doesn't make much sense to grease something sealed. Initially I was thinking the grease may be for the spindle since the bearings were sealed..well according to franklee's post they are 'shielded'.

I will still lok into equivalents for both these and the quill bearings, however they feel smooth and are made in good ole USA. Not going to swap some junk in there.

Attached another pic to show the hole I was describing in the spindle sleeve(?)

Also, I'd like to confirm in the lock nut on the top of the quill is standard right hand thread? can't get this one to budge.

Thanks again!

 

[shannonw]

I’ll let the others chime in as i did not disassemble that yet iirc that was a standard thread or i assumed it was too.

I started reading up on that but was rushing to get mine reassembled with the intention to change them later. but not sure if i will unless it develops play or noise, (not like it runs 8 hours a day or anything) so far on mine those bearings run quiet and feel good....but i haven’t measured runout yet (waiting for a dial indicator) but i imagine most of that on mine is going to be chuck adjustment.

Yeah i assume those have been changed. I can’t see a need to use the grease cup with those bearings, and that just slips onto the quill splines, i lightly greased the splines there then just slid it on. I very lightly greased the shaft of the spindle assembly for rust prevention...didn’t grease where the bearings ride or the bearings themselves.

here’s some quick pics of what you can do, move your column cap to your spring return, it’s the same part number, then a < $2 conduit knockout (2”) on the column...no one will ever see it.

If you replace the belt, the OWWM doc says it’s a 42”, on mine i need to get one a bit 1/2” or so longer due to the size of the motor setting the motor pulley a bit farther back.

Another thing, if you change out the electrical cord, there’s a recess on the inside of the casting that snakes it around the column, helps to know that before hand. I ended up getting mine jammed and couldn’t adjust the head on the column up and down, it was a bit of a pain after the motor was attached to lift everything and reset it due to the weight once i realized that.

 

[Davefr]

Also, I'd like to confirm in the lock nut on the top of the quill is standard right hand thread? can't get this one to budge.

Thanks again!

I started this thread on stubborn bearing retainers.

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=334480&highlight=bearing+retainer

I'm 95% sure your's would also be R.H. threaded but they are tough to remove. I tried with the old hammer and screwdriver method and failed. All it did was start to ****** up the slot.

The solution is in post #8 and it worked great.

There's nothing wrong with re-using old bearings as long as turn smooth with no detectable roughness. However that old grease is well past it's useful life and no longer providing adequate lubrication. Cleaning and repacking is perfectly acceptable. Shields are easy to remove so you can clean the inner parts of the bearing. Brake cleaner or an ultrasonic cleaner work well. The last step is to spray thoroughly with the open part down so you get any remaining debris out of the bearing. If the bearings are industry standard then it might be easier to just replace them with a good name brand.

...or you can simply run to fail if they're already smooth and runout is acceptable. I chose to replace/clean repack all 4 in my Delta 17" DP during the restoration.

 

[shannonw]

I will probably be pulling mine apart tonight, I noticed today i could move the shaft up thru the lower bearing and i’m sure the penetrant that was sprayed on everything there along with running the drill now that it’s together loosened that up. So while it’s loose is a good time to re-remove the quill and remove that retainer and check out those bearings and regrease or replace.

I gotta read over davefr and franklee’s threads first as I’m not sure what’s exactly required to get the bearings out of the quill and then back in...i imagine a pipe and or washer on the inner race to knock em out then back in is all i’ll need.

 

[shannonw]

Had a few minutes OP, just fyi righty tighty, i had it easy. Removed quil wrap in towel put it in the vice, couple light taps with a small punch it spun right around! pure luck....

 

[Chicken]

Thanks for the input guys!

Stopped by a local bearing shop and got a couple replacements today. I probably didn't need to but I just can't ever seem to let things be...

Naturally I tried putting the column cap on the return spring housing but mine wasn't a tight fit? The cap will fall out during use. Great idea on the conduit knockout, I will probably find a way to shim the cap and make it work instead of sourcing new stuff.

I will try and pull the quill apart this weekend, great info in your thread Dave. You got lucky Shannon!

 

[shannonw]

My spring return cap is a bit loose, not sure if that’s normal or not. The part number for the 2 are the same. If i spin mine around so the tabs fit in a certain place it stays put

 

[Chicken]

My spring return cap is a bit loose, not sure if that’s normal or not. The part number for the 2 are the same. If i spin mine around so the tabs fit in a certain place it stays put

I dint think I spun it. Worth a shot.

Since we are discussing removal of the lock washer it's got me thinking about torque to install. My thinking is too tight and the spindle will be tough to spin? Find the sweet spot and snug the collar on?

 

[shannonw]

yeah, I don’t think there’s anything scientific there, it’s just to hold the bearing in. I just spun mine back hand tight then a tap or two of the drift punch.

From a glance at mine getting the bearings out aren’t that simple, i can’t say for sure but i think you’ll need a 8”+ steel rod to insert thru one end and hopefully catch the edge of the bearing race from the opposite end and tap out. No rod atm and i’d have to order bearings.

It’s not like a hollow tube, when the bearings are in, the tube + the inside of the bearings form one continuous tube for the shaft to slide in. So it’s not as simple as ok remove shaft and bang the bearing out the other end...you’ll have to catch and edge.

Due to time constraints i’m reassembling as is but will tackle the rest again in a week or so as i’m sure there’s some inner race wear on my bearings from the movement back and forth (see my thread) and some wear on the spindle shaft.

But while it was apart again I cleaned up the quill and handle gears a bit with a file while i was there as there was some meshing that would prevent the quill from returning smoothly sometimes once i had gotten everything back together...should work much better now.

Honestly if your quill feels like there’s no movement in any directions, noise, or crunching feel,etc unless you run the drill 8 hours a day it could many more years before you’d have to replace those.

 

[shannonw]

No luck i got some wear (see my thread). went ahead and dissassemled, it was easy 2 minutes...no steel rod but used a socket extension

here’s a pic of what you’ll see.

 

[Chicken]

No luck i got some wear (see my thread). went ahead and dissassemled, it was easy 2 minutes...no steel rod but used a socket extension

here’s a pic of what you’ll see.

Did the exact same thing, with extension.

Got the lock ring off with a punch after using plenty of liquid penetrant the past couple days. Now to source bearings.

Edit: my bearings are caked in dried grease. I can only imagine what's on the inside. I'm sure they will work but why not get this thing sorted so it will outlast me.

Bearing measurements and google are telling me they are 6202. Chances are I will order some from fleabay once I'm sure on size.

Granted this is craftsman (there seems to be quite a few similarities between them during that time period), but most of the quill bearings are the same and the spindle shaft is clearly 5/8's.
http://wiki.vintagemachinery.org/ReplacementBearingListCraftsman.ashx#Drill_Press_56