Got my new shop all wired up, any changes I should make?

justbarriault · Sep 13, 2016

Me and my stepfather wired my shop last week, and thought I'd pick you brains on what we ended up with since I could still tweak it if desired. I put 3 rows of 4' and 8' 2/4 light T5 fixtures down my main shop, (28'x48'x16'), (4) 4' T5's up above my work/tool area (8' height), 4 recessed cans with LED spot light bulbs up in my 2nd floor (a small 28'x12' area for storage and air compressor), 4 outlets in my attic on a switch (lights TBD), 120v outlets every 4' inside, above bench height in the back, and about 2' height in the front section, (3) 220v outlets down each long wall and 1 on the rear wall (seperate circuit for each WALL not each plug), all 220v wiring 6/3, all 120v wiring 12/2 and 12/3, (4) 120v outlets on outside of building with weather tight covers, all 120v inside and outside outlets wired through GFI outlets, conduit run from my 200 amp breaker box to the attic in case of future needs. I have a ceiling fan in the middle of the ceiling, and a small exhaust fan with shutters 2' down in the middle of a side wall. I probably skimped on the breakers a bit, with a 20 amp circuit for each wall (being 48' walls I believe I'm at 10-11 outlets per breaker), but I highly doubt I'll be tripping them

overkill 19 · Sep 13, 2016

Xmas light switch for outside!

justbarriault · Sep 13, 2016

overkill 19 said:
Xmas light switch for outside!

I've got switches for that!

matt_i · Sep 13, 2016

Garage door opener outlet, jack-shaft opener outlet high on the wall.

I don't have it yet...but plan to have a welding power AC source just inside one of the garage doors, for doing that smoky welding job on a tractor bucket *outside*.

Depending on what you plan to do outdoors, I had the goal of having the functional yard outside of the shop able to be lit up by flood lights depending on projects, events/parties or pickup sporting events

wyliesdiesels · Sep 13, 2016

What size in HP air compressor do u have?

justbarriault · Sep 13, 2016

matt_i said:
Garage door opener outlet, jack-shaft opener outlet high on the wall.

I don't have it yet...but plan to have a welding power AC source just inside one of the garage doors, for doing that smoky welding job on a tractor bucket *outside*.

Depending on what you plan to do outdoors, I had the goal of having the functional yard outside of the shop able to be lit up by flood lights depending on projects, events/parties or pickup sporting events

I did 3 jack shaft opener outlets since I don't know which side they would end up on, I put a welder outlet close to the garage door for that reason, I already have a pretty sweet LED wallpack for lighting up outside, and then I put decorative LED lanterns around all of the doors for the heck of it

justbarriault · Sep 13, 2016

wyliesdiesels said:
What size in HP air compressor do u have?

5HP. I put a dedicated 30 amp circuit on my second floor for it

wyliesdiesels · Sep 13, 2016

justbarriault said:
5HP. I put a dedicated 30 amp circuit on my second floor for it

Needs to be hardwired unless u can find an outlet and plug rated for at least 5HP...

What size wire did u use?

justbarriault · Sep 13, 2016

wyliesdiesels said:
Needs to be hardwired unless u can find an outlet and plug rated for at least 5HP...

What size wire did u use?[

It's been fine the last 5 years on a 50 amp plug, and the last one was fine. All the 220 wiring is 6/3

wyliesdiesels · Sep 13, 2016

justbarriault said:
It's been fine the last 5 years on a 50 amp plug, and the last one was fine. All the 220 wiring is 6/3

Not code compliant.

And nominal voltage is 240v.

justbarriault · Sep 13, 2016

Is there a functionality issue though???

klassenl · Sep 13, 2016

wyliesdiesels said:
Not code compliant.

How do you know.

wyliesdiesels · Sep 13, 2016

justbarriault said:
Is there a functionality issue though???

Yes the contacts can burn up and become pitted because they arent rated for the starting load of the motor especially if u unplug it while its running.

klassenl said:
How do you know.

Because standard nema plugs such as the 6-50p and r u used arent rated for more than about 3HP.

If u want a plug rated for higher HP u will have to go with pin and sleeve plugs and outlets.

Code requires the outlet to be rated for at least the same HP rating as the motor.

justbarriault · Sep 13, 2016

wyliesdiesels said:
Yes the contacts can burn up and become pitted because they arent rated for the starting load of the motor especially if u unplug it while its running.

Because standard nema plugs such as the 6-50p and r u used arent rated for more than about 3HP.

If u want a plug rated for higher HP u will have to go with pin and sleeve plugs and outlets.

Code requires the outlet to be rated for at least the same HP rating as the motor.

Mine all look good. I guess I can always hard wire it down the road if I need to. It's on a 25 amp breaker now with no issues and a 50 amp plug

wyliesdiesels · Sep 13, 2016

Yours may very well never have an issue.

But some have had issues and thats why.

Im aure theres tons setup incorrectly. Sure it will work. Doesnt mean its right.

tarmy · Sep 13, 2016

View attachment 582668
Couple of items here to think about...cieling mount air cleaner...and overhead hoist...ran a separate 20 A for that.

75gmck25 · Sep 14, 2016

You may have it covered already, but don't forget unswitched receptacles in the attic. For example I have coax cable in the attic that runs to an antenna with an amplifier that stays on all the time, which allows me to have broadcast HD TV (no charge). The attic is a also good protected place to put other types of electronics or electrics that you want out of the way in the shop (e.g. wireless network extender, security/light controller, etc.).

Bruce

matt_i · Sep 14, 2016

Also good to think about any HVAC, mini-split, etc, for future even if you don't have the funds to install it right now.

marklc · Sep 14, 2016

I like to run a 2"PVC pipe out of the panel into the attic for future uses. Same for any TV/Phone. JUst cap them off until you need them.

-Brent- · Sep 14, 2016

A neat idea I got from someone here was an outlet hooked up to a timer for a charging station. I picked up a timer from Amazon that has enough time to allow for my phone or batteries to be charged. As well, I chose an outlet that has USB ports for my phone/iPad cables.

All together I think I spent $30 on it and it's something I'm looking forward to utilizing. I hate phantom loads, so a timer offers some peace of mind in that regard.

bowhuntr311 · Sep 14, 2016

Receptacles on the ceiling for retractable cord reels?
Speaker wire?
Cat5 Ethernet?
Coax?
Security Wiring?

justbarriault · Sep 14, 2016

marklc said:
I like to run a 2"PVC pipe out of the panel into the attic for future uses. Same for any TV/Phone. JUst cap them off until you need them.

I did that. I think it's a really good idea

justbarriault · Sep 14, 2016

bowhuntr311 said:
Receptacles on the ceiling for retractable cord reels?
Speaker wire?
Cat5 Ethernet?
Coax?
Security Wiring?

I have outlets on the ceiling, I could do speaker wire external if I chose but probably won't, no coax, my camera's are wifi and the shop already has wifi since somehow it magically makes it from my house (pretty good for a $20 router,huh?)

justbarriault · Sep 14, 2016

75gmck25 said:
You may have it covered already, but don't forget unswitched receptacles in the attic. For example I have coax cable in the attic that runs to an antenna with an amplifier that stays on all the time, which allows me to have broadcast HD TV (no charge). The attic is a also good protected place to put other types of electronics or electrics that you want out of the way in the shop (e.g. wireless network extender, security/light controller, etc.).

Bruce

I have 3 different circuits in the attic, but all are on switches, with my thought being safety and not having to make the trek back up there if I forgot something on. They're all 20amp so they would handle any of that stuff, but I like the idea of putting one up there non-switched. good idea, thanks!

justbarriault · Sep 14, 2016

matt_i said:
Also good to think about any HVAC, mini-split, etc, for future even if you don't have the funds to install it right now.

Although I kind of wish I add an HVAC outlet towards the rear of the building, I have one in the middle and one in the front. It would only ever be heat, never A/C. I could always run something external I guess if I needed, or out of my breaker box since that's in the back as well. Good thinking

overkill 19 · Sep 15, 2016

I ran my power from my overhead doors to a 120/12v switch. So when security is on, "12v switch" there is no power to doors which includes the dead bolts on tracks. So thefts can only carry out man doors!
Also took manual chains off

justbarriault · Sep 15, 2016

overkill 19 said:
I ran my power from my overhead doors to a 120/12v switch. So when security is on, "12v switch" there is no power to doors which includes the dead bolts on tracks. So thefts can only carry out man doors!
Also took manual chains off

Hmm I like the idea of the doors not being able to open. I wouldn't want to take the chains off, but maybe I can hide them up out of the way and use some sort of password protected key pad inside the building. I'll have to speak with my door company

justbarriault · Sep 15, 2016

overkill 19 said:
I ran my power from my overhead doors to a 120/12v switch. So when security is on, "12v switch" there is no power to doors which includes the dead bolts on tracks. So thefts can only carry out man doors!
Also took manual chains off

and what do you mean by 120/12v switch (If there's an easy explanation or example)?

overkill 19 · Sep 15, 2016

My alarm system has a 12v wire that is activated when alarm is turned on. I believe most systems do.
So that wire is run to the 12v side of the switch then it lets the 120v thru to the doors.
Crude explanation but ya get the gist.

Ya on my big door all I did was tie the chains up and put a pad lock on it. So you would have to find a ladder then bolt cut the lock up 14 ft.

The small door I took it off completely.

overkill 19 · Sep 15, 2016

overkill 19 said:
My alarm system has a 12v wire that is activated when alarm is turned on. I believe most systems do.
So that wire is run to the 12v side of the switch then it lets the 120v thru to the doors.
Crude explanation but ya get the gist.

Ya on my big door all I did was tie the chains up and put a pad lock on it. So you would have to find a ladder then bolt cut the lock up 14 ft.

The small door I took it off completely.

It's not full proof but it's all about slowing them down enough while I get my gun loaded!!!

overkill 19 · Sep 15, 2016

justbarriault said:
and what do you mean by 120/12v switch (If there's an easy explanation or example)?

PS you can get switches that will switch the 120v side when ur 12v is deactivated as well. Some alarms have a 12v source powered the whole time it's not turned on.

DeadSock · Sep 15, 2016

For the sake of a future owner/maintainer ...
Make a DETAILED diagram of switches outlets etc. printed out photos of the hidden wiring runs is also helpful.

Keep one copy with home records and another taped in a bag at the load center

Got my new shop all wired up, any changes I should make?

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