j p smith
Well-known member
Great job on the metal storage and the cabinets
Above 1200 Sq/FT Speed Metal Garage - rattle_snake’s 34x40 shop build in AZ
- Thread starter rattle_snake
- Start date
Wokspaces above 1200 squarefeet.
OP
rattle_snake
Well-known member
Vdub hose hanger (wide 5, slotted so 67?). Wanted a narrow wheel, just cleaned them up for now. Still deciding on how to finish, strip and let it rust, paint, or ? Got 2 of them, they have more 'character' than plastic.
OP
rattle_snake
Well-known member
Re-fencing job is almost complete. I still need to build a gate between the buildings to enclose the back yard.
I hired a guy to do the 140' of fencing. Overall I grade the job a 'C'. It could be better but I have to pick my battles. The splicing of the fence wire is questionable. It was built with old materials and the horses will damage it within days so it is what it is.
I also had to close off the area between the building and fence to keep the dogs in. I modified an old gate and welded/concreted it in at the questionable splice, so the splice can't fail. It was a hot day to weld (120+). The area behind the shop is my new large item storage overflow (aka junk yard).
I hired a guy to do the 140' of fencing. Overall I grade the job a 'C'. It could be better but I have to pick my battles. The splicing of the fence wire is questionable. It was built with old materials and the horses will damage it within days so it is what it is.
I also had to close off the area between the building and fence to keep the dogs in. I modified an old gate and welded/concreted it in at the questionable splice, so the splice can't fail. It was a hot day to weld (120+). The area behind the shop is my new large item storage overflow (aka junk yard).
Last edited:
nsula_country
Well-known member
Fence looks good at 50/50. Definitely makes it look more finished.
I have 50 acres that we need to fence in some day. Most of the property lines are grown up with brush and trees. 1.5 miles with close it in.
CT
I have 50 acres that we need to fence in some day. Most of the property lines are grown up with brush and trees. 1.5 miles with close it in.
CT
Sunbimmer
Well-known member
I would personally let it rust to add more "character"
OP
rattle_snake
Well-known member
Lumber racks
Still organizing and finding semi-permanent homes for materials. I whipped up these lumber racks to help clear the floor.
Still organizing and finding semi-permanent homes for materials. I whipped up these lumber racks to help clear the floor.
OP
rattle_snake
Well-known member
Lm 8500
Installed a Liftmaster 8500 on the big door (18x10). Was hesitant as this is the largest door they recommend. Had some issue getting it going but seems to work fine. Went ahead and got the internet gateway, as my other opener in the garage is a LM with MyQ as well.
Need to add another receptacle between doors for table saw, using an extension cord for now. Space is tight but need to leave room for another opener.
Installed a Liftmaster 8500 on the big door (18x10). Was hesitant as this is the largest door they recommend. Had some issue getting it going but seems to work fine. Went ahead and got the internet gateway, as my other opener in the garage is a LM with MyQ as well.
Need to add another receptacle between doors for table saw, using an extension cord for now. Space is tight but need to leave room for another opener.
OP
rattle_snake
Well-known member
Lawn Maintenance crew
I put up a temp panel across an unfinished gate opening to get my lawn crew working again. Property manager's project timelines are always ahead of mine. Not the best time of year for building gates.
If I could just get a bagging system for them..
I put up a temp panel across an unfinished gate opening to get my lawn crew working again. Property manager's project timelines are always ahead of mine. Not the best time of year for building gates.
If I could just get a bagging system for them..
TXNinAZ
Well-known member
Re: Lawn Maintenance crew
Lol!!
So what would you recommend for a guy like me that wants speakers in my shop? I know you're passionate about it- I don't need anything too fancy. My old shop I had a pair of in-ceiling Polk 8", wired to a stereo amp in the laundry room and a volume control on the wall. Any suggestions?
I put up a temp panel across an unfinished gate opening to get my lawn crew working again. Property manager's project timelines are always ahead of mine. Not the best time of year for building gates.
If I could just get a bagging system for them..
Lol!!
So what would you recommend for a guy like me that wants speakers in my shop? I know you're passionate about it- I don't need anything too fancy. My old shop I had a pair of in-ceiling Polk 8", wired to a stereo amp in the laundry room and a volume control on the wall. Any suggestions?
nsula_country
Well-known member
TXNinAZ...
I'll bite on this. Personally for my shop plans are as follows.
Currently own and am not using 4, Pioneer Andrew Jones 1st generation bookshelf speakers and the matching Pioneer Andrew Jones center channel. They are serious speakers for their size. The center is massive, just don't know where it would play in if used.
Planning on placing a bookshelf speaker in each corner... Of a 40x60. With enough power, it may work out.
I bought them and a pair of Pioneer Andrew Jones tower and another Pioneer AJ center channel speaker. I tested both and put the towers + center channel in the living room with a Chinese 10" powered sub for a 2.1 system. The Yamaha receiver has virtualization modes that simulates surround. People look for the rear channels all the time.
Next is a receiver. I'd like to get another Yamaha... But for a shop, I'm looking at a Bluetooth, WiFi capable Sherwood receiver. Supposedly they are decent units. A Yamaha Advantage receiver is a little pricy for the shop!
Good luck in your quest for sound.
CT
I'll bite on this. Personally for my shop plans are as follows.
Currently own and am not using 4, Pioneer Andrew Jones 1st generation bookshelf speakers and the matching Pioneer Andrew Jones center channel. They are serious speakers for their size. The center is massive, just don't know where it would play in if used.
Planning on placing a bookshelf speaker in each corner... Of a 40x60. With enough power, it may work out.
I bought them and a pair of Pioneer Andrew Jones tower and another Pioneer AJ center channel speaker. I tested both and put the towers + center channel in the living room with a Chinese 10" powered sub for a 2.1 system. The Yamaha receiver has virtualization modes that simulates surround. People look for the rear channels all the time.
Next is a receiver. I'd like to get another Yamaha... But for a shop, I'm looking at a Bluetooth, WiFi capable Sherwood receiver. Supposedly they are decent units. A Yamaha Advantage receiver is a little pricy for the shop!
Good luck in your quest for sound.
CT
Last edited:
Cave Creek Ray
Well-known member
Yamaha is the only way to go.
I picked up a RX-V3000 free at a church thrift store. Not a mark on it but it needed a power cord. Five 100w channels in stereo mode. I have all Yamaha because its bullet proof and cleaner than anything else.
Find some good used Polks on CL. I found two 20 year old mint Polk towers in a church thrift store for $15. The older Polk stuff is incredible when driven by a clean amp.
I spend so much time in the shop, I really enjoy great tunes....
I picked up a RX-V3000 free at a church thrift store. Not a mark on it but it needed a power cord. Five 100w channels in stereo mode. I have all Yamaha because its bullet proof and cleaner than anything else.
Find some good used Polks on CL. I found two 20 year old mint Polk towers in a church thrift store for $15. The older Polk stuff is incredible when driven by a clean amp.
I spend so much time in the shop, I really enjoy great tunes....
TXNinAZ
Well-known member
Thanks fellas. Things to think about...
OP
rattle_snake
Well-known member
Re: Lawn Maintenance crew
Well it depends on your goals, usage and budget.
How important is a strong bass response? Since your garage is attached to house you may have restrictions/limitations (wife's china collection vibrating)
How loud does it need to go? Other noise sources like a fan?
What is music source? a phone or ?
Do you typically work in one spot or all over? Often speaker placement is more critical than the $. Pointing them out to the street may not work if you blast Slayer late at night.
The closer the speakers are to you, the lower the volume can be. Hanging them on the wall gets them out of the way. If you use your phone for music a Bluetooth link to the amp can be a good option ($20), no wires. Do you still have the stereo amp from the last place? If the ceiling speakers worked for you maybe that is a good option again.
Well it depends on your goals, usage and budget.
How important is a strong bass response? Since your garage is attached to house you may have restrictions/limitations (wife's china collection vibrating)
How loud does it need to go? Other noise sources like a fan?
What is music source? a phone or ?
Do you typically work in one spot or all over? Often speaker placement is more critical than the $. Pointing them out to the street may not work if you blast Slayer late at night.
The closer the speakers are to you, the lower the volume can be. Hanging them on the wall gets them out of the way. If you use your phone for music a Bluetooth link to the amp can be a good option ($20), no wires. Do you still have the stereo amp from the last place? If the ceiling speakers worked for you maybe that is a good option again.
OP
rattle_snake
Well-known member
I am still contemplating something like this for low frequency drivers:
http://www.firstwatt.com/pdf/art_elpipeo.pdf
A 15" driver would fit directly into a 14" sonotube. 8' long would yield a theoretical resonance frequency of 35hz. Maybe a pair of them, hung from ceiling, with 500w per driver.
Since we are on the topic of audio I guess I will ramble on some more about my observations. I moved the main speakers (my homebrew 3 way w/12s) to the middle of the building along the long walls. Before the were in the corners and benefited from corner loading (significant bass response increase). This solved the 'washout' of high frequencies by shortening listening distance but bass suffered. I also moved the 10" sub from the rear wall to the center of the building, up at the ceiling. Moving the sub (closer to the mains) helped blend the bass response as expected, and since it has its own amp the overall bass level is easily adjusted.
When driven hard it now lights up the garage doors, among other things.
The space is challenging to get decent sound at a variety of SPL levels and listening/working positions. Running the exhaust fan and/or the swamp cooler doesn't help. Sadly at this point I don't have any time to allocate to a new audio system even if I knew what I wanted and could justify the cost.
http://www.firstwatt.com/pdf/art_elpipeo.pdf
A 15" driver would fit directly into a 14" sonotube. 8' long would yield a theoretical resonance frequency of 35hz. Maybe a pair of them, hung from ceiling, with 500w per driver.
Since we are on the topic of audio I guess I will ramble on some more about my observations. I moved the main speakers (my homebrew 3 way w/12s) to the middle of the building along the long walls. Before the were in the corners and benefited from corner loading (significant bass response increase). This solved the 'washout' of high frequencies by shortening listening distance but bass suffered. I also moved the 10" sub from the rear wall to the center of the building, up at the ceiling. Moving the sub (closer to the mains) helped blend the bass response as expected, and since it has its own amp the overall bass level is easily adjusted.
When driven hard it now lights up the garage doors, among other things.
The space is challenging to get decent sound at a variety of SPL levels and listening/working positions. Running the exhaust fan and/or the swamp cooler doesn't help. Sadly at this point I don't have any time to allocate to a new audio system even if I knew what I wanted and could justify the cost.
OP
rattle_snake
Well-known member
Smog Nazi's got a little smarter here so the Cobra finally came in for some work. Wish I had the lift, but I will get there soon enough. So much more room in here, definitely an improvement over the garage. Except that there is no compress air. yet. Boat needs an impeller. everything I own needs something.
Last edited:
OP
rattle_snake
Well-known member
Been slowly working on the front shop/garage gate. I keep feature creeping so progress is negative. My tolerance requirements are excessive (linear and angular) plus I want adjustability so plan is to install posts before committing to final gate width.
Posts are 2x2 11 ga. I capped the tops and sleeved the bolt holes to prevent crushing the tube. necessary? No. Over-engineered, absolutely. The gate will be heavy (~100lbs) so the mounts need to be stout. when the wind slams this gate it will have a lot of force. Goal is to minimize stucco cracking/damage so I am attaching directly to the stud and not the stucco itself with the custom pipe/washer spacer. A stack of washers between the post and stud allows adjustability at the top. The bottom of the post will be in concrete.
Yes I could have not attached to building at all, but posts would have had to been really stout and in deep. More work more money.
Posts are 2x2 11 ga. I capped the tops and sleeved the bolt holes to prevent crushing the tube. necessary? No. Over-engineered, absolutely. The gate will be heavy (~100lbs) so the mounts need to be stout. when the wind slams this gate it will have a lot of force. Goal is to minimize stucco cracking/damage so I am attaching directly to the stud and not the stucco itself with the custom pipe/washer spacer. A stack of washers between the post and stud allows adjustability at the top. The bottom of the post will be in concrete.
Yes I could have not attached to building at all, but posts would have had to been really stout and in deep. More work more money.
Last edited:
jedeyeben
Well-known member
So, curious, what was the problem with the cobra? What are you running that didn't pass? Just interesting to me.
Fellow terminator owner here, in a state with no inspections.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Fellow terminator owner here, in a state with no inspections.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Cave Creek Ray
Well-known member
Just a note from experience...
Regarding speaker placement, Keep left and right on the shorter dimensions for better spatial separation in longer rooms. I am going to have to swap mine after breaking left and right over the longer distance. You loose one whole channel when working at the end or outside the door. I have two sets of speakers in every room.
Also, it is immensely hard to get good bass even with subwoofers. I had three 12" higher end subs going on top of my cabinets in my 1050sf shop and ten feet away, you couldn't hear any bass. My 12" drivers in my home-built speaker mounted on the wall really sound great all by themselves.
Workshop acoustics are perplexing!
RS.... What's over the fence across the alley? A school? Looks like a great location with quiet neighbors.
Thanks for sharing and sorry for the thread hijack.
Ray
Regarding speaker placement, Keep left and right on the shorter dimensions for better spatial separation in longer rooms. I am going to have to swap mine after breaking left and right over the longer distance. You loose one whole channel when working at the end or outside the door. I have two sets of speakers in every room.
Also, it is immensely hard to get good bass even with subwoofers. I had three 12" higher end subs going on top of my cabinets in my 1050sf shop and ten feet away, you couldn't hear any bass. My 12" drivers in my home-built speaker mounted on the wall really sound great all by themselves.
Workshop acoustics are perplexing!
RS.... What's over the fence across the alley? A school? Looks like a great location with quiet neighbors.
Thanks for sharing and sorry for the thread hijack.
Ray
OP
rattle_snake
Well-known member
Looks like phx area now has the ODB readiness tests added. Just plug in inspection but need to have full emissions in place. In the past it was just a check for errors so things could be turned off in the tune.
Yes a school across the street. Bass in large or open areas is non-trivial but it can be done with enough power, time and money. The sound quality at concerts continues to get better and can be impressive.Just a note from experience...
Regarding speaker placement, Keep left and right on the shorter dimensions for better spatial separation in longer rooms. I am going to have to swap mine after breaking left and right over the longer distance. You loose one whole channel when working at the end or outside the door. I have two sets of speakers in every room.
Also, it is immensely hard to get good bass even with subwoofers. I had three 12" higher end subs going on top of my cabinets in my 1050sf shop and ten feet away, you couldn't hear any bass. My 12" drivers in my home-built speaker mounted on the wall really sound great all by themselves.
Workshop acoustics are perplexing!
RS.... What's over the fence across the alley? A school? Looks like a great location with quiet neighbors.
Thanks for sharing and sorry for the thread hijack.
Ray
OP
rattle_snake
Well-known member
Made some progress on a new front gate. Didn't fully commit to a final design so I built a frame with a temporary filler piece (OSB).
After setting posts, and committing to final size, I hacked up some 2x4x14ga rectubular
and made an exciting rectangle. Original plan was to use barrel hinges (BB, greasable type) but they would allow >90 opening so I went with self closing type.
After contemplating many latch ideas I went with a leftover standard door knob. A leaver would be more convenient but my boxer has figured them out. Clearances came out nice and latch didn't need a shim.
The inmates
Still thinking about ideas for the center. Could use 2x6s, perforated metal, some kind of bar design.
After setting posts, and committing to final size, I hacked up some 2x4x14ga rectubular
and made an exciting rectangle. Original plan was to use barrel hinges (BB, greasable type) but they would allow >90 opening so I went with self closing type.
After contemplating many latch ideas I went with a leftover standard door knob. A leaver would be more convenient but my boxer has figured them out. Clearances came out nice and latch didn't need a shim.
The inmates
Still thinking about ideas for the center. Could use 2x6s, perforated metal, some kind of bar design.
nsula_country
Well-known member
At least you painted the OSB...
CT
CT
OP
rattle_snake
Well-known member
Yes, well that can be a slippery slope. Unpainted, it would be clearly unacceptable and the final solution needed imminently. A hastily applied coat of paint (both sides at that)? Now the lines are blurred and procrastination is a viable option.
nsula_country
Well-known member
Right on bro... Sounds like me on a honey-do project!! ��
CT
CT
OP
rattle_snake
Well-known member
Added some receptacles between garage doors to plug in table saw. Wasn't planning on having it here but after some use it has ended up in the same spot as the last 2 spaces.
About 10 years ago I added a receptacle to the machine so I could plug in a band saw (also with another plug) and vacuum. I made the cord about 20' long so I could wheel it outside to keep things cleaner inside. I also added the wheels.
After some feedback from another thread over in electrical, I went with one of these metal covers instead of 'cheesy' plastic. I have already broken 4 plastic covers.
About 10 years ago I added a receptacle to the machine so I could plug in a band saw (also with another plug) and vacuum. I made the cord about 20' long so I could wheel it outside to keep things cleaner inside. I also added the wheels.
After some feedback from another thread over in electrical, I went with one of these metal covers instead of 'cheesy' plastic. I have already broken 4 plastic covers.
Last edited:
OP
rattle_snake
Well-known member
Moved the cord reel from the garage to the shop and added some bling to the GDO control panel
8.8 Ford 3.08 ring gear. Why? Not sure...
8.8 Ford 3.08 ring gear. Why? Not sure...
OP
rattle_snake
Well-known member
Finally got around to re-laying pavers. After inventorying and calculating coverage I knew I would be about 7' short. I found and priced the next closest style but July in AZ is not the time to do pavers. So I put down what I had. Not fun even below 100*.
I also put some 12" squares under the gates so the dogs can't dig. Phase B will expand pavers to door landing and over to the gate.
Now that I have cleaned off concrete area I can think about how to best use it. Original plan was to build a covered patio off the back of the shop. Since it already has concrete I think I may add some sort of shade/roof. Maybe one of those sail shades.
I also put some 12" squares under the gates so the dogs can't dig. Phase B will expand pavers to door landing and over to the gate.
Now that I have cleaned off concrete area I can think about how to best use it. Original plan was to build a covered patio off the back of the shop. Since it already has concrete I think I may add some sort of shade/roof. Maybe one of those sail shades.
Last edited:
OP
rattle_snake
Well-known member
Another cord reel installed by the workbench/back door
nsula_country
Well-known member
Your cord reel poor now!
Haven't updated my thread in a while. Have 4 of 24 interior lights hung though!
Looking good Rattle Snake!
CT
Haven't updated my thread in a while. Have 4 of 24 interior lights hung though!
Looking good Rattle Snake!
CT
OP
rattle_snake
Well-known member
Often I wonder if my OCD induced turd polishing really helps. I was concerned that the dirt around the foundation wasn't compacted. At all. So I compacted the area where the parking pad was being poured against the slab, myself, in the dark. For the record I am not a fan of compacting 3sqin at a time with a digging bar. I added at least 4" of material (granite) with the intent of preventing the forward edge from cracking, as it gets driven over.
Got a good 40min down pour (2.5" of rain) a few days ago, which compacted the soil nicely. Also made a mess out of the pavers I just laid. After seeing this I feel like my effort probably helped. Not concerned here, just foot traffic but shows the gap that would have been under the parking pad concrete.
Got a good 40min down pour (2.5" of rain) a few days ago, which compacted the soil nicely. Also made a mess out of the pavers I just laid. After seeing this I feel like my effort probably helped. Not concerned here, just foot traffic but shows the gap that would have been under the parking pad concrete.
OP
rattle_snake
Well-known member
Slowly completing projects in the miserable hot weather. Shits got to get done. I've half-asssed many things to keep life going but eventually I have to go back and do it right.
I added 60' of gutters on south side of barn. Did the west 70' a year ago. Also put in underground drains on both ends with concrete end reinforcements. To date I have done 9 of them, one left to go. Problem was, the barn roof wasn't going to work with gutters. Half the roof had the metal to long and covered gutter, the other half to short so the water wouldn't get into it. So I had to first modify the entire roof edge.
Decided to use some weathered pine for my gate. I picked it up from a friend who used to run a saw mill, as 'barn wood' as actually more expensive than new hardwood. I wanted a clean look, so to secure boards to the frame I build a channel out of steel on the top. On the bottom I welded half the channel to the frame and also some nuts to bolt the sandwich together.
I have been applying 5% acid (vinegar) to the frame to accelerate rust. Problem is the steel is 200* and it evaporates instantly. So yes, raw wood and raw steel to sit out in elements so they deteriorate and look 'cool'. Those of you in wet climates may be shaking your head, asking why someone would help a gate rust outside... I'm to lazy to sand off all the mill scale.
But looking a hell of a lot better than the OSB.
I added 60' of gutters on south side of barn. Did the west 70' a year ago. Also put in underground drains on both ends with concrete end reinforcements. To date I have done 9 of them, one left to go. Problem was, the barn roof wasn't going to work with gutters. Half the roof had the metal to long and covered gutter, the other half to short so the water wouldn't get into it. So I had to first modify the entire roof edge.
Decided to use some weathered pine for my gate. I picked it up from a friend who used to run a saw mill, as 'barn wood' as actually more expensive than new hardwood. I wanted a clean look, so to secure boards to the frame I build a channel out of steel on the top. On the bottom I welded half the channel to the frame and also some nuts to bolt the sandwich together.
I have been applying 5% acid (vinegar) to the frame to accelerate rust. Problem is the steel is 200* and it evaporates instantly. So yes, raw wood and raw steel to sit out in elements so they deteriorate and look 'cool'. Those of you in wet climates may be shaking your head, asking why someone would help a gate rust outside... I'm to lazy to sand off all the mill scale.
But looking a hell of a lot better than the OSB.
Last edited:
nsula_country
Well-known member
That is a nice gate. Seriously.
In the Gulf South, You would have surface rust on that gate by morning!
CT
In the Gulf South, You would have surface rust on that gate by morning!
CT
OP
rattle_snake
Well-known member
Thanks I think it came out OK, just need to complete the pavers underneath to finish the job.
I refinished (or unfinished) my veedub hose hangers. Soaked in muratic acid for a week, then they rusted in a few hours. The lip and inner edge were extremely sharp once the paint was removed, had to take a flap wheel to them during the process.
OP
rattle_snake
Well-known member
More lights
I repurposed a pair of 4' shop lights to areas that were dark.
My table saw in under the overhead doors where I intentionally didn't put in the last row of lighting, as they would be blocked when doors are open. So I hung a light between the tracks
And another directly over the bench. could use even more but I have future plans for that...
Don't mind the clutter.
I repurposed a pair of 4' shop lights to areas that were dark.
My table saw in under the overhead doors where I intentionally didn't put in the last row of lighting, as they would be blocked when doors are open. So I hung a light between the tracks
And another directly over the bench. could use even more but I have future plans for that...
Don't mind the clutter.
Last edited:
OP
rattle_snake
Well-known member
I have begun to collect equipment for the 'real' shop audio system.
Started with this; 1300 watts for a pair or 2 pairs of subs. Also picked up an 1/3 octave EQ on CL and have this guys little brother (400W) on the way from ebay. All used, all on the cheap. Just need a x-over and a rack. And speakers. And cables and wiring. Maybe I'll make a custom rack in my spare time.
Gasp... wait, you can't use PA/professional audio gear in a residential setting. They aren't expensive enough and have superior balanced interconnects!
Started with this; 1300 watts for a pair or 2 pairs of subs. Also picked up an 1/3 octave EQ on CL and have this guys little brother (400W) on the way from ebay. All used, all on the cheap. Just need a x-over and a rack. And speakers. And cables and wiring. Maybe I'll make a custom rack in my spare time.
Gasp... wait, you can't use PA/professional audio gear in a residential setting. They aren't expensive enough and have superior balanced interconnects!
nsula_country
Well-known member
This is going to get good!
Keep us up to date on this. Makes my Yamaha receiver look like a pocket radio!
CT
Keep us up to date on this. Makes my Yamaha receiver look like a pocket radio!
CT
Check out deepsurplus.com for inexpensive rack options. I use them for quite a few items and have always been pleased with cost and quality.I have begun to collect equipment for the 'real' shop audio system.
Started with this; 1300 watts for a pair or 2 pairs of subs. Also picked up an 1/3 octave EQ on CL and have this guys little brother (400W) on the way from ebay. All used, all on the cheap. Just need a x-over and a rack. And speakers. And cables and wiring. Maybe I'll make a custom rack in my spare time.
Gasp... wait, you can't use PA/professional audio gear in a residential setting. They aren't expensive enough and have superior balanced interconnects!
OzarkMan
Well-known member
Hi Justin, I spent about 1hr going through your build! Nice job and attention to details.
We moved out of South Chandler (Gilbert & Riggs) two years ago for a 1.1acre property in East Mesa. (Southern and Ellsworth) I started a thread on my garage (attached) 32x34 build back then. I guess I need to update it. Certainly not as organized as yours!
We moved out of South Chandler (Gilbert & Riggs) two years ago for a 1.1acre property in East Mesa. (Southern and Ellsworth) I started a thread on my garage (attached) 32x34 build back then. I guess I need to update it. Certainly not as organized as yours!
OP
rattle_snake
Well-known member
Thanks for the link.
Thanks, yes you should update your thread, garage came out beautiful. love the floor and lighting.