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My AC is too big. SE Texas humidity battle. Solution?

matemike

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Feb 8, 2015
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211
Location
Brazoria, TX
About a year ago we had to replace one of our two AC units in our single story home. We originally had a 14 ton unit go bad, but the company doing the work only had a 16 ton unit on hand. They installed the 16 ton at no extra charge for the larger unit. Over the following days/weeks we noticed the house felt more damp than before. Especially the bare tile floors which make up about 65% of our flooring in the 3350 sq ft house. I then researched and learned that if an ac unit is too large for an area that it will not remove moisture as well as an appropriately sized unit. In my discovery I also learned that a mitigation is to either keep the house colder or to add more vents. So for a year now we've been keeping the house at 71° which has created as much as $550 electric bills during the summer months AND my wife and kids are often saying it's too cold in the house; covering up in blankets when it's 100° outside!
I tell them "at least it's dry inside."

Other than icing down the house, the next option will be to add more vents and keep the house at a more reasonable 74°. The place I may want to add vents will be in the GARAGE! Where else!?!

My question is: Will this achieve what I want? I want to alleviate the AC and moisture issue by adding vents into a space that does not feed the AC intake. Ultimately, could I keep the house at 74° again while keeping moisture down with the larger ac unit?

If so, this could be a win-win situation because now the garage will be more comfortable to hang out in. No, I don't expect the garage to remain a solid 74° like the house, especially since we use the garage for our cars and we open and close the garage doors quite often. But if the addition of vents alleviates some of the humid oven scorch from my garage then I will see it as a positive result. I'd plan to stick two vents coming off two different duct lines that already run close to the garage area.
It is a 3 car attached garage; 26x36x10. I would of course insulate the two garage doors even though they face north and never see direct sunlight. I'd also run bats of insulation in the attic area above the garage since there is nothing there right now, just sheetrock ceiling that it screwed to the 2x8's.

If this idea would be completely useless since the vents would not add cold air output from an intake area then please tell me so. Stop me before I do something that wouldn't work.
 
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chrispyny

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albany, ny
The problem is, per code you are to have two seperate units. One for house, one for garage. you don't want to bring fumes into the house from the garage. Vehicle exhaust, etc.

Other than THAT issue, it's a great idea. Adding hot 600+ sq ft to an oversized a/c is what it needs. I just don't know if you want to risk potentially causing harm or worse to your family if the issue i mentioned arises.
 

truckman5000

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Mar 11, 2008
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Im assuming 16 seer not ton.
Im assuming they used the existing coil + expansion valve. And your pressures are off because of this...
 

LS6 Tommy

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Dec 27, 2013
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Northern NJ
The contractor "didn't have" the right sized unit? ********. Nobody has units just hanging around. You have to pay taxes on the inventory. They picked up the wrong size unit and then tried to make it seem like they were doing you a favor. Make them install the correct sized unit. They intentionally sold you the wrong unit.

Tommy
 
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matemike

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Feb 8, 2015
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Location
Brazoria, TX
Im assuming 16 seer not ton.
Im assuming they used the existing coil + expansion valve. And your pressures are off because of this...

You are correct that they used to existing coil and evaporators in the attic. And I believe you are also right that they were saying 14 vs 16 seer compressors. Or maybe it was 7 ton vs 8 ton units. I truly forget. It was over a year ago.

No I do not want to bring any garage fumes into the house through the ducts. Even though there would not be a return from the garage, I could still see the potential for gas migration. Thanks for the wise words.

I have two closets in the garage as well. One is air conditioned and the larger of the two is not. One last idea is that I could run a duct line and vent to that 5x10 double door closet. Only problem is that it is literally across the garage from where the closest duct line that goes into our laundry room. I'd need sme 30' of ducting. That large closet is where the breaker boxes are. Any problem with that? There's also a lot of old paint cans in there. I would remove those if I run a duct and vent to that space.

I know it's too late to call the AC contractor back out to fix the problem.
 

brewchief

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Sep 20, 2008
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Michigan
How about brand and model numbers from outdoor unit and indoor coil and furnace or air handler.

Reducing the indoor blower speed can increase the dehumidification capabilities, we do it at the thermostat with some equipment and it can make a huge difference.
 

rsanter

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Dec 22, 2007
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visalia ca
Even a 6-7 ton unit is too big for that house

You will need to add a dehumidifier now if you are going to get rid of the humidity

Bob
 

csp

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Franktown, CO
I then researched and learned that if an ac unit is too large for an area that it will not remove moisture as well as an appropriately sized unit.

I've never lived in a humid climate, so I've never had to deal with excess humidity issues. We actually add humidity to the air in the winter.

So is this an issue because the larger unit cools the house so quickly that it doesn't have a long enough run time for the humidity to condense out of the air at the coil?
 

kwschumm

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Feb 13, 2016
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Olympia, WA
I've never lived in a humid climate, so I've never had to deal with excess humidity issues. We actually add humidity to the air in the winter.

So is this an issue because the larger unit cools the house so quickly that it doesn't have a long enough run time for the humidity to condense out of the air at the coil?

Yes, shorter run times reduce dehumidification.
 

Stuff

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Aug 31, 2013
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572
Long shot - is it a two stage system that is only running on high? Also, slowing the blower speed might help a bit.

Is this a heat pump? Increased size gets you more heating in the winter.

Proper solution is most likely to replace the a/c system with a correctly sized unit. It is never too late to call them back.

If you do nothing then you could eventually have a mold problem that will cost you even more in health and money.
 
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stage20

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pcola FL
Long shot - is it a two stage system that is only running on high? Also, slowing the blower speed might help a bit.

Is this a heat pump? Increased size gets you more heating in the winter.

Proper solution is most likely to replace the a/c system with a correctly sized unit. It is never too late to call them back.

If you do nothing then you could eventually have a mold problem that will cost you even more in health and money.

was the system installed on the side or directly through a company?
usually labor warranty is 1 year. id call as high up as i could and get the problem taken care of. youre never going to make it right unless you have the correct unit for the square footage
 
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Dagny

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Same tonage higher seer should lower suction pressure lowering evaporator temperature resulting in more humidity being removed.
 

98ssuck

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Why not increase the dead band on the thermostat. Unit will run longer without having to lower the room temperature. It may help. But if you have the wrong sized unit there's not much you can do to fix it.
 

Marctrees

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TX/LA border - Toledo Bend
Why not increase the dead band on the thermostat. Unit will run longer without having to lower the room temperature. It may help. But if you have the wrong sized unit there's not much you can do to fix it.

That's an interesting idea.

It may be a solution,or THE best overall fix, I don't know.


I'm not sure, but I think it's referred to as "differential"

I think all Tstats have it, some adjustable, some not.

Overall, I REALLY think a REAL HVAC design engineer consult would be money well spent here, bringing him ALL info and specs of the equipment and building it's cooling.

Somebody that TRULY UNDERSTANDS stuff like the difference between stuff like "Dry" and "wet" bulb temps, latency, etc.

Not just some nerd with a calc and no grasp of what it really means.

Most stuff, almost always, can be self figured out by going here to GJ and asking as you have, and also enough Googling.

But I would not try this one alone w/o pro help. The first thing he would to, is a calc of btu you need based on info you bring him.

That's the easy part, then, if it's oversize as this seems, he needs to draw on his full understanding of AC'ing as to how best to solve this, working with what you have, assuming it's not cost effective to replace everything.

I really think that's your answer.

May be difficult to find/ qualify the engineer though, to assure you have a truly definative answer rather than just ******** opinion. Marc
 
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derkperk

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Feb 3, 2016
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108
Brewchief was right about lowering the blower speed. Lower velocity across the evaporator will increase the removal of latent heat. This is the first thing to try.
Adding a dehumidifier will do wonders as it will also add heat to the space.
Glad to hear you aren't adding vents to the garage. That will pressurize the space, pushing your exhaust and chemical fumes into the house.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

LS6 Tommy

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Brewchief was right about lowering the blower speed. Lower velocity across the evaporator will increase the removal of latent heat.

It also increases sensible heat removal, even more than it increases the latent heat removal. Reducing air volume on an oversized unit may start freezing the coil...

Try it and see if it helps. It can't hurt for a short term test.

Tommy
 

danski0224

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Jan 29, 2005
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Near Naperville, IL
You are correct that they used to existing coil and evaporators in the attic. And I believe you are also right that they were saying 14 vs 16 seer compressors. Or maybe it was 7 ton vs 8 ton units. I truly forget. It was over a year ago.

Unless your existing (assumed) re-used air handlers have a variable speed drive, you will NEVER get 14+ SEER out of the system.

If your ducts are undersized, (and they most likely are) you will never get the claimed SEER rating.

The equipment (condenser, evaporator and blower unit) needs to be listed on the AHRI website as an approved match as a first step in trying to attain a certain SEER rating. Then the ductwork has to be properly sized to carry the required airflow.

If your old evaporator coils were not a match for 14+ SEER applications, then the coil is the wrong size. Your equipment is most likely not charged correctly and is also most likely costing you more to operate because the SEER/efficiency took a nosedive with the mismatched condenser/coil/blower.

With the exception of Goodman, I do not know of any other box maker that has 13/14+ SEER equipment without using a TXV valve. If your reused coils are "builders grade" cheapies or if they are old enough, the coils may not have the proper metering device.

You will have to determine what the cooling load is for your home/system. Then see if the condenser is sized correctly. If the condenser is sized correctly, you may be able to address the problem with a properly sized coil (if it can be changed by itself) and then properly charging the system.

A severely overcharged system will not remove much moisture, either. And that overcharged condition kills compressors.
 

mrpizza

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Nov 1, 2011
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IL
You need a matched cased coil or new uncased in your existing ducting if its a furnace or the proper air handler. The coils for these new high seer systems have very different parameters as already mentioned.

They dont have these units laying around. Trucks come to where i now work every day droping off systems for the next days installs and the day after.
 

Falcon67

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Jun 11, 2009
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Merkel, TX
A dedicated dehumidifier is the answer, and the future, for wet climates and new construction lacking the sensible load to keep a condenser running long enough to remove moisture.

http://www.ultra-aire.com/dehumidifiers/

Maybe - depends on how well the house is sealed up. He's in Brazoria - You know you're almost to Brazoria when you see moss all over the trees. Like south Louisiana.60% RH is a dry day LOL.
 
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