2x12 lumber for shelves?

[bochnak]

I need to hang some shelves for light duty storage.

Instead of the 3/4" particle board shelving that will sag, anyone use 2x12's or maybe two 2x10's butted up instead? I plan on painting them white. Two 2x10's butted up will give me 18.5" depth.

I also plan on using these brackets:
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Richelieu-Hardware-16-in-White-Heavy-Duty-Shelf-Bracket-494W16B/202205510

 

[soob]

Consult the sagulator.

http://www.woodbin.com/calcs/sagulator/

ETA: oh, yeah, and the answer's almost certainly yes. I mean, it depends on how far apart your supports are, but if it's reasonable 2x pine will hold massive amounts of weight.

 

[AffableCurmudgeon]

Can't you support the particle board every few feet? In a long span, even 2x10/12 will sag.

 

[bochnak]

Can't you support the particle board every few feet? In a long span, even 2x10/12 will sag.

Yes, I can add more brackets. The shelf is going above a window, so for that span I planned on adding any brackets on the top, or upside down.

 

[bochnak]

Consult the sagulator.

http://www.woodbin.com/calcs/sagulator/

ETA: oh, yeah, and the answer's almost certainly yes. I mean, it depends on how far apart your supports are, but if it's reasonable 2x pine will hold massive amounts of weight.

Cool site thanks. Do you know what the recommended span is for particle board?

 

[1redTA]

2x12 shelf? what about a 1x ?

 

[TLCObsession]

Plywood.

 

[bochnak]

Here is where I want the shelf:

 

[rlitman]

At that height, I'm assuming you're not storing extremely heavy things. I don't see any issue spanning 4' or more with 2x lumber as a shelf. Just be sure you start with very dry lumber. Otherwise it will probably warp as it dries. I'd be looking for KD (kiln dried) lumber. And DO NOT get anything with finger joints in it.

 

[dutchgray]

I would support every 6', that would look right and ought to support up to the limit of the bracket mountings. You always end up loading shelves more than you think, even high up shelves where you only put smaller items, they add up in weight fast and 24" deep will take a lot of stuff.

 

[matt_i]

Particleboard is something sold to college students needing cheapo furniture to move into their dorms.

I'd go with 3/4" plywood. I'd screw some 1x ribs to the back, center, and front and you will have a very rigid plane.

 

[oldwino]

Particleboard is something sold to college students needing cheapo furniture to move into their dorms.

I'd go with 3/4" plywood. I'd screw some 1x ribs to the back, center, and front and you will have a very rigid plane.

Yeah, what Matt said. Glue and screw 1x will add a lot of ridigity and be cheaper.

 

[Showkey]

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^And not so clunky looking.

Ply load can be doubled by adding a solid ledge or lip.

 

[Shiftless]

I have had a few shelves made from doug fir 2x12s up for years with no sag. They are supported every 32 inches and loaded with boxes of ceramic tile, a cast iron cylinder head, a spare transmission, flywheel and crankshaft...lots of really heavy stuff. But I suppose they do look clunky. But then again, my garage has bare concrete floors and exposed studs and ceiling joists. (No need for insulation here.)
Doubled up 3/4 inch plywood (laminated together with glue) would be even better and let you have a greater span if needed. You can get 1 1/8 inch thick plywood in 4x8 sheets. Around here the brand name is Sturdi Floor. Code approved for subfloors with 24 inch joist spans. I always thought that the stuff would make excellent shelving. No need for extra stiffeners.

 

[rlitman]

Why do you think that doubled up 3/4" ply would have a greater span than 2x dimensional lumber? Both would be 1-1/2" thick, but the dimensional lumber has more grain oriented in the direction you need to avoid sag. If you really wanted to increase span, the way to do it is by changing the cross sectional shape of the shelf (adding ribs).

 

[Shiftless]

Why do you think that doubled up 3/4" ply would have a greater span than 2x dimensional lumber? Both would be 1-1/2" thick, but the dimensional lumber has more grain oriented in the direction you need to avoid sag. If you really wanted to increase span, the way to do it is by changing the cross sectional shape of the shelf (adding ribs).

Now that I think about it some more, I realize that you are absolutely correct. The plywood, even with extra glue, only has half of the wood fibers oriented in the strongest direction.
The advantage you would have with plywood is that you could get any width you want with one solid piece. And avoid warping.
Another disadvantage of plywood is that except for premium grades like Baltic, the cut edges will show voids.

 

[theoldwizard1]

I have used those brackets and they are stout !

Use can use 1x6 boards. They can even hang over the edge of the bracket an inch or two, but each board needs 2 screws so I had to drill a couple of extra holes.

 

[Hawk]

Why do you think that doubled up 3/4" ply would have a greater span than 2x dimensional lumber? Both would be 1-1/2" thick, but the dimensional lumber has more grain oriented in the direction you need to avoid sag. If you really wanted to increase span, the way to do it is by changing the cross sectional shape of the shelf (adding ribs).

The reason ply is more stable is because though each layer is thinner you are gaining in strength by the crossing of "grain" due to the cross layering of the material. A 2 X only has grain running one direction and on a long run you will get more sag, thereby needing more support. Now if you want a solid run you can run the beam with the 2 (1 3/4) width as the horizontal plane.

 

[K'ledgeBldr]

2X is over-kill. Both in money and bulk.

Here's how I've done shelves (the face trim depth is detrimine X by the span-

 

[theoldwizard1]

2X is over-kill. Both in money and bulk.

Here's how I've done shelves (the face trim depth is detrimine X by the span-

Very nice and I'll bet you have have no deflection of the plywood. Good quality wood glue/construction adhesive is required. Pin the trim to the plywood just to keep it in place until the adhesive is completely cured.

 

[NUTTSGT]

If you're going with 2x lumber, I believe those brackets will be the weak link. For light duty storage, I would think that 1x would be plenty.

 

[bochnak]

Thanks for all the suggestions.

I've been playing with the sagulator calc and it it hard to beat the low deflection of 2x lumber. Sure I can use plywood and add edges and ribs, but I don't want to do any extra work.

 

[bochnak]

I have used those brackets and they are stout !

Use can use 1x6 boards. They can even hang over the edge of the bracket an inch or two, but each board needs 2 screws so I had to drill a couple of extra holes.

Awesome, thanks for the feedback on the brackets. Yes, I'm OK with drilling a couple of extra holes.

 

[Farrier]

Plywood.

X2

In my experience, 2X DF material will slightly or severely twist twist when not fastened down along it's length.

 

[rlitman]

If you're going with 2x lumber, I believe those brackets will be the weak link. For light duty storage, I would think that 1x would be plenty.

I have used those brackets and they are stout !

Use can use 1x6 boards. They can even hang over the edge of the bracket an inch or two, but each board needs 2 screws so I had to drill a couple of extra holes.

I too have used those brackets, and can agree that they're seriously strong. Strong enough that with the proper shelf, I'd be comfortable using two of them to support a small engine block.

But I'm not sure about needing two screws per shelf. Along it's entire length, a shelf needs a minimum of two screws, to keep it from sliding around. Each bracket also needs the front screw hole filled to keep the bracket square to the wall. If you have no choice and the shelf must end on the bracket without overhanging the side, then having two screws there to keep it from slipping off is a good idea. Also, if the shelf overhangs the front of the bracket, then one screw in the back of the shelf is a necessity to keep the shelf from tipping off the front.

 

[rlitman]

In my experience, 2X DF material will slightly or severely twist twist when not fastened down along it's length.

It depends on how dry it was when you got it. If you paid for the premium stuff that's extra dry (and was stored inside), then I wouldn't expect that to happen.

 

[ddawg16]

I'd do 3/4" plywood. It will be cheaper and less chance of warping....and you can make the shelves deeper.

I've had good luck using melamine for shelves...but I also run a 2" wide strip of SS down the back of the shelf.

 

[maxpower_hd]

I can't see your pic but I used a 2x12 for an 18' span simply because it was left over stock so it was already paid for. I put it over two windows with three basic 12" shelf brackets screwed into the wall studs with 3" deck screws. No sagging after 10 years with all sorts of fairly heavy shtuff on them.

 

[n20junkie]

I would go 2x12. Its more tolerant to water, stronger IMHO and way easier than building up other materials with ribs or lips.

You know you won't have an issue, EVER, if a proper 2x12 shelf is installed.

 

[mishkaya]

I don't want to post any pics because my garage is such a mess right now, it's embarrassing!
However, I used 2x12 boards for my shelving in the garage. Used pretty much the same brackets spaced every 32". I have a little over 330 linear feet of shelving in the garage, and couldn't be happier with the setup. Installed about 15 years ago, and have not had a single issue since.