1/2" Drive - Long Handle Flex Head Ratchets +20"

[[memphis]]

New to GJ, lurked here for years, figured I'd finally make a login since P4x4 has gone down the tubes.

I still think I want the Matco 24" locking flex head ratchet but it's been on back order for +6 months because of the change in ratchet guts. This slightly concerns me because it sounds like it is going off shore. I don't feel like paying top dollar for off shore.

The equivalent Gearwrench ratchet is also on back order which makes me wonder

I've looked at the snap-on version and don't like the locking mechanism but I haven't completely ruled it out.

I'm not a tool snob but want something with a lifetime warranty; are there any better contenders I am missing?

 

[M6erfan]

I thought Carlyle had a long locking 1/2" flex...

 

[PJNJ]

IDK Tooltopia has the Gearwrench available as in stock -

http://www.tooltopia.com/gearwrench...tid=KDT81363&gclid=CJ2q5tGjuM8CFYEehgodDoUIvg

 

[[memphis]]

I should also note I'm in Canuckastan... I have thought about picking up the Gearwrench on eBay and sucking it up on the freight charges

IDK Tooltopia has the Gearwrench available as in stock -

http://www.tooltopia.com/gearwrench...tid=KDT81363&gclid=CJ2q5tGjuM8CFYEehgodDoUIvg

If you check their website it says no stock; meaning the ratchet guts are still not available I imagine

 

[firworks]

Does it need to be locking? Do you need it quite so long? If not then I'd consider this guy:
View media item 62182
18" Long Wright Flex-Head Ratchet. Has hard angle detents but does not lock. It's heftier than all of my breaker bars.

I'm not sure what other requirements you are looking at but thought I'd throw this in the ring. I don't think it's a well known flex-head ratchet.

 

[gdocktor3]

I have 18" SK flex head that's basically identical to the Wright pictured above. It's a nice tool to have for sure. I've thought about buying the Mac 24" a few times, but can't justify paying for it. OEM tools also makes one I've looked at a few times. Then there are the off brands like EZ Red, Titan, etc.. Here's the OEM http://mobiledistributorsupply.com/...K0zkI_z6T-sqcKaBJaX_n9PByi4mRsZgKgaAnTs8P8HAQ

 

[F150tech]

I have an ez red locking flex head, have used it extensively with no problems and it does have a lifetime warranty, found it on sale on tooltopia for somewhere around $50

 

[Greg85mcss]

I wouldn't worry about the locking flex on that ratchet. A 3/8 where you're moving around & using it quickly is different. I had both in snap on dual 80. I hated how the 3/8 got loose & replaced it with a matco locking when I lost it. Tbh it's more annoying than helpful. I prefer the splined flex like the old cheap craftsman but as far as I know none of the big boys do it that way.


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[lazer50]

If i were you, i would buy a usa made like the wright or sk mentioned.or snap on but if you settle for an off shore.the carlyle is 90 tooth and supposed to be made by the best taiwan manufacturer koken! But i would go with your gut and buy usa!

 

[PJNJ]

I should also note I'm in Canuckastan... I have thought about picking up the Gearwrench on eBay and sucking it up on the freight charges



If you check their website it says no stock; meaning the ratchet guts are still not available I imagine

Most of the time Gearwrenches site will show something out of stock. It is often still available from third parties as prior shipments have not been sold out yet. I have ordered and received items.

 

[PJNJ]

I recently purchased the SK 1/2 flex. Very good ratchet - 50 teeth, low backdrag, feels very stout.

I also have Wright 1/2 non-flex ratchets. Dual pawl and strong. Backdrag is lighter on the SK.

 

[rice rocket]

Do you need it quite so long?

I agree with you here. I have a 24" Snap-On and it's basically relegated to lugnut duty since it's too cumbersome to use anywhere else.

 

[M6erfan]

If i were you, i would buy a usa made like the wright or sk mentioned.or snap on but if you settle for an off shore.the carlyle is 90 tooth and supposed to be made by the best taiwan manufacturer koken! But i would go with your gut and buy usa!

Lol, Koken is not a Taiwan manufacturer.

Perhaps you meant Kabo Tools Taiwan?

However Ko-Ken does make a 18" 1/2" drive flex ratchet...P/N 4774P-450

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[Fedwrench]

I have an ez red locking flex head, have used it extensively with no problems and it does have a lifetime warranty, found it on sale on tooltopia for somewhere around $50

The EZ RED warranty only covers the ratcheting mechanism. Break the square drive, it's covered. Break the head off of the handle, it's not covered.

If i were you, i would buy a usa made like the wright or sk mentioned.or snap on but if you settle for an off shore.the carlyle is 90 tooth and supposed to be made by the best taiwan manufacturer koken! But i would go with your gut and buy usa!

Where do you guys come up with this stuff? Koken=high quality Japanese tool company. KABO=high quality Taiwanese tool company.

 

[M6erfan]

Where do you guys come up with this stuff? Koken=high quality Japanese tool company. KABO=high quality Taiwanese tool company.

Happy hour in Indiana

 

[TheFarmer]

I've looked at the snap-on version and don't like the locking mechanism but I haven't completely ruled it out.

What don't you like about it? I've used mine (non-comfort grip longest piece 1/2 drive) for three years now and I use it like sh*t when I can. It still works and is not broken. I've put cheater bars on it at flex (cause I'm too cheap to buy a 1" adapters) to clear wheel depth on lug nuts and literally sat on the bar to loosen the lug nuts on mega trucks.

 

[CJM8515]

Dont laugh, but Im quite happy with the HF 1/2 flex head. But it doesnt lock.

 

[T45]

Snappy 1/2 drive is pretty burly. If you need locking flex in 1/2 drive just go for it.

 

[BFHtime]

I have a 2 ft dual 80 which was good for turning an engine when working on the top end, the long reach is convenient. It is also great for corroded or damaged fasteners. I have also use it on large drivetrain to chassis hardware. It can make some jobs very easy.

The biggest advantage is reach, and most times it is too long to use. I picked up an 18 inch flex which I found to be more useful, than the 2 footer. The dual 80 ratchet is convenient, but most times you can use a breaker bar, then a shorter ratchet. Times that you can't having all that leverage, makes hard jobs very easy.&

 

[jfcasey]

Welcome from the pbb, i lurked there for several years, miss the old days when it was a busy place before they sold it .

Any way, I jumped up and down on my 24 inch locking flex head snap on ratchet this after noon and later confirmed the bolt was torqued to 360ft/lbs. It's hard to argue with ratchets that do that daily without issues. I wanted a non locking flex head originally but have no regrets with the locking head.

If you plan on really hanging off you're long ratchet you've gotta decide if taking it to the face when it slips or snaps the drive off is worth saving a few bucks.

 

[M6erfan]

^^^Not for nothin' but you may want to look into a breaker bar...

 

[kams1973]

Dont laugh, but Im quite happy with the HF 1/2 flex head. But it doesnt lock.

I've had good luck with mine as well.

 

[chrisnazzy]

When I was in the market for a 1/2" drive long flex head ratchet I ended up ruling out the 24" options because they felt unnecessarily long for most tasks. Plus I already had a 24" breaker bar. I ended up going with the Snap On SF80A and it is a bad *** ratchet. Not too big, not too small and of course Dual 80. I got mine for a little off list @ $159. Didn't feel the need for locking flex but the SX80B is basically the same only locking.

Sent from my SPH-L720T using Tapatalk

 

[Derek420]

Look on eBay I would look at the cobra ratchets very nice and steelman but you can find your Matco there

 

[Schurkey]

I've had a non-flex Snap-On 1/2 long-handle ratchet since Fido was a pup. I ditched an 18" Snappy breaker bar in favor of a 24" flex-head non-locking ratchet a year or two ago.

I might have liked the locking feature. But maybe not--I don't think any of the locking flex heads are particularly durable in terms of the locking mechanism breaking or slipping.

Anyway, I REALLY LIKE the 24" flex non-locking ratchet. It does everything I want except there's no quick-release socket feature which would have been nice. I need that feature the least on a 1/2 drive, much more on 3/8" and 1/4" drive ratchets.

 

[Adam.C]

Snap On's SHLF80A saves my *** regularly. It's so insanely awesome everybody should have one. It's one of my favorite tools. Mine measures 26" long. Flex head is nice and stiff. 80 tooth head is especially helpful in a long ratchet. Ratchet mechanism is stronger than the flex joint which means this is a ratchet as strong as a breaker bar. So don't even own one. The other great thing about it is it's made in the USA out of good steel, well heat treated so it doesn't flex much under load. I dont want my muscle going to deflecting a tool

 

[1950mercury]

If you really wanted the matco look into the Armstrong, same guts and locking mechanism. I have one and it's plenty long enuff

 

[augustus]

I only have a 24" breaker bar, but if I were shopping I think since it's so long I'd want the highest tooth count made in USA. That's if money were not a problem. You could also use a ratcheting adapter on a 24" breaker bar, but those seem to be out of favor.

 

[[memphis]]

I've had a non-flex Snap-On 1/2 long-handle ratchet since Fido was a pup. I ditched an 18" Snappy breaker bar in favor of a 24" flex-head non-locking ratchet a year or two ago.

I might have liked the locking feature. But maybe not--I don't think any of the locking flex heads are particularly durable in terms of the locking mechanism breaking or slipping.

Anyway, I REALLY LIKE the 24" flex non-locking ratchet. It does everything I want except there's no quick-release socket feature which would have been nice. I need that feature the least on a 1/2 drive, much more on 3/8" and 1/4" drive ratchets.

What I like about the Matco is the best of both worlds... it can be locked or unlocked. I also like quick release on my 3/8 Mastercraft Ratchet. I have a Williams & Snap-On 1/4" drive and can never pull sockets off. I have a 3/8" Snap On ratchet I don't like using because of that!

Snap On's SHLF80A saves my *** regularly. It's so insanely awesome everybody should have one. It's one of my favorite tools. Mine measures 26" long. Flex head is nice and stiff. 80 tooth head is especially helpful in a long ratchet. Ratchet mechanism is stronger than the flex joint which means this is a ratchet as strong as a breaker bar. So don't even own one. The other great thing about it is it's made in the USA out of good steel, well heat treated so it doesn't flex much under load. I dont want my muscle going to deflecting a tool

Can the snappy SHLF80A be set to free flex? I am not a huge fan of their locking mechanism but they are almost the same price as Matco...

If you really wanted the matco look into the Armstrong, same guts and locking mechanism. I have one and it's plenty long enuff

I've looked at Armstrong stuff but they don't offer the length, primary duty for this ratchet will be lug nuts and brake saddle bolts. I work in the driveway with no hoist, I need all the leverage I can get.

I only have a 24" breaker bar, but if I were shopping I think since it's so long I'd want the highest tooth count made in USA. That's if money were not a problem. You could also use a ratcheting adapter on a 24" breaker bar, but those seem to be out of favor.

I am hoping to make my 24" Princess Auto Breaker Bar as a last resort, I haven't broke it but it ***** not being able to index it on caliper bracket bolts etc. as it either hits the ground or the body. A high tooth flex head would solve this issue.

I don't have air at home and haven't made the investment for cordless electric stuff either. I realize cordless would make most of my tasks a breeze for basic maintenance.

 

[M6erfan]

I realize cordless would make most of my tasks a breeze for basic maintenance.

I almost recommended an 18v-20v impact but you were asking about hand tools. Heck, even a corded impact would be great.

Like you, I have a home garage shop and I went 18v impact a couple of years ago. Really happy I did, zip 'em off, zip 'em back on, torque wrench, bam done!

I still use a 1/2" 24" breaker bar where access with an impact wrench is an issue, but for 95% of the work, the impact rocks!

I do not own an extra long 1/2" Ratchet and have never come across a situation where I absolutely had to have one. But again, I don't wrench everyday for a living. The 24" Snap On flex ratchet is really nice, but I don't have access to the truck or money to burn...

 

[BK13]

I hardly ever use my 1/2" stuff, but I had a gift card to Lowes so I picked up a Kobalt 24" flex. I haven't really beat on it, but it seems okay. I had one of the long flex PittsPro HF ratchets before some jack wagon stole it frome me.... It withstood little ol' 340 pound me bouncing on it while trying to break loose massively over tightened lug nuts on an Expedition. Mostly I just use my M18 stuff now.

 

[Ign]

Look on eBay I would look at the cobra ratchets very nice and steelman but you can find your Matco there

I was wondering if anyone would suggest this. Not a bad idea

 

[LXCam]

I'm really happy with the ezreds I picked up late year. I got the fixed head ones but they do make flex heads.

 

[abvw]

What I like about the Matco is the best of both worlds... it can be locked or unlocked. I also like quick release on my 3/8 Mastercraft Ratchet. I have a Williams & Snap-On 1/4" drive and can never pull sockets off. I have a 3/8" Snap On ratchet I don't like using because of that!



Can the snappy SHLF80A be set to free flex? I am not a huge fan of their locking mechanism but they are almost the same price as Matco...



I've looked at Armstrong stuff but they don't offer the length, primary duty for this ratchet will be lug nuts and brake saddle bolts. I work in the driveway with no hoist, I need all the leverage I can get.



I am hoping to make my 24" Princess Auto Breaker Bar as a last resort, I haven't broke it but it ***** not being able to index it on caliper bracket bolts etc. as it either hits the ground or the body. A high tooth flex head would solve this issue.

I don't have air at home and haven't made the investment for cordless electric stuff either. I realize cordless would make most of my tasks a breeze for basic maintenance.

Flex is not something I would desire for a 1/2" drive, if I need to clear an obstacle I usually do that with deeper sockets or extensions. When fasteners break loose a flex handle can be very dangerous if you were leaning your entire body weigh on it.

The 24"s are great only if you work under a lift, for everywhere else I'd look into an 18" as it can clear most wheel wells, and when extra leverage is called for, you can simply slip a cheater on it.

 

[Adam.C]

Flex is not something I would desire for a 1/2" drive, if I need to clear an obstacle I usually do that with deeper sockets or extensions. When fasteners break loose a flex handle can be very dangerous if you were leaning your entire body weigh on it.

The 24"s are great only if you work under a lift, for everywhere else I'd look into an 18" as it can clear most wheel wells, and when extra leverage is called for, you can simply slip a cheater on it.

I hear what you are saying, but I disagree. I find the long flex ratchets with fine toothed heads crucial when working on stands. There's so little space to swing a long handle, nice to be able to put it exactly where you want it.

Just finished a simple wheel bearing job and I used the heck out of 1/2" drive. Pulled out all the specialty stuff- stubby 1/2 dr triple squares, T60, 12pt chrome etc. have a stubby flex I used like a speeder with an extension if that makes sense.

Snap On flex is non locking in its std form. It's pretty stiff, not floppy. I recommend it.

 

[M6erfan]

Adam, just curious if you tried an impact wrench on this job? If so, was there a situation where the 24" ratchet was necessary where the impact wouldn't do?

Reason I ask is because I did the wheel bearings, ball joints, control arms, end links, etc on our E46 BMW earlier this year (up on stands in my garage) and never found the need for an extra long indexing ratchet... But maybe I'm missing out on something


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[Finky198]

When I was in the market for a 1/2" drive long flex head ratchet I ended up ruling out the 24" options because they felt unnecessarily long for most tasks. Plus I already had a 24" breaker bar. I ended up going with the Snap On SF80A and it is a bad *** ratchet. Not too big, not too small and of course Dual 80. I got mine for a little off list @ $159. Didn't feel the need for locking flex but the SX80B is basically the same only locking.

Sent from my SPH-L720T using Tapatalk

Big +1 on the SF80A my most used 1/2" drive ratchet. I have an SN36 for big stuff and an S77 adapter to make it a 36" ratchet
I need to pick up a nice 24" bar, but as other have said 24 ratchet is kinda of long IMHO unless your on a doing a lot of suspension work on a lift...

I think the 18" handle is much more versatile day to day... With the power and size of impacts today our the 3ft breaker bar only comes out a
few times per month... We have plenty of long chrome tools but we seem to use less and less chrome each year...

 

[Adam.C]

Adam, just curious if you tried an impact wrench on this job? If so, was there a situation where the 24" ratchet was necessary where the impact wouldn't do?

Reason I ask is because I did the wheel bearings, ball joints, control arms, end links, etc on our E46 BMW earlier this year (up on stands in my garage) and never found the need for an extra long indexing ratchet... But maybe I'm missing out on something


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Yes. This was a VW GTI. The entire hub came out. The 3 nuts under the a-arm attached to the ball joint had to come out so I could disconnect the drive shaft. They had long threads and I couldn't fit my gun in there with a deep socket. Car wasn't high enough. If I was on a lift it would have been no problem.

The 4 screws that held the hub in were on the inboard side. No way for me to fit my gun back there with the disconnected drive shaft's cv there. And all of these fasteners had pretty high torques.

Sorry I didn't take pictures. I was thinking of SBerry. It was another pretty austere working condition. I had good tools but a dark dirty barn to work in.

Without a lift, I'm surprised by how often I can't use my impact gun. That long ratchet saves my ***.

I have a Bosch impact, which people here think is ****. I was worried it wouldn't remove the wheel hub. It removed it no problem. Yet to encounter a bolt that gun couldnt remove. The installation torque was 200Nm + 180deg. that was easily 400nm clean and greased.

 

[M6erfan]

Yes. This was a VW GTI. The entire hub came out. The 3 nuts under the a-arm attached to the ball joint had to come out so I could disconnect the drive shaft. They had long threads and I couldn't fit my gun in there. Car wasn't high enough. If I was on a lift it would have been no problem.

The 4 screws that held the hub in were on the inboard side. No way for me to fit my gun back there with the disconnected drive shaft's cv there. And all of these fasteners had pretty high torques.

Sorry I didn't take pictures. I was thinking of SBerry. It was another pretty austere working condition. I had good tools but a dark dirty barn to work in.

Without a lift, I'm surprised by how often I can't use my impact gun. That long ratchet saves my ***.

Fair enough, appreciate the response...

I see what you mean, I guess my 600mm (24") breaker bar suffices in instances such as yours. Typically I break the fastener loose with the breaker then switch to a shorter length tool for speed.

Just goes to show...many different, albeit equally effective, ways to tackle similar projects

 

[Loscaldazar]

Adam, just curious if you tried an impact wrench on this job? If so, was there a situation where the 24" ratchet was necessary where the impact wouldn't do?

Reason I ask is because I did the wheel bearings, ball joints, control arms, end links, etc on our E46 BMW earlier this year (up on stands in my garage) and never found the need for an extra long indexing ratchet... But maybe I'm missing out on something


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I use it for rear diff drain plugs on Subarus (and I hear nissan has the same type of plug). It's a 13MM recessed square aluminum drain plug, and most people just put their 1/2 drive ratchet in it and strip it out. You need to use the 13MM square drain plug tool (which is non impact, and using an impact on these diffs can crack the diff cover if the drain plug is stuck...which they always are). I bought my 24" SLX80A specifically for this job and have been able to remove every single one! You can't use a breaker bar on these, because the plug being a 4 sided plug, you have 4 ways to position your breaker bar, and it often is impossible to get the 13MM tool in there with a fixed breaker bar in any of those 4 positions (would be easier if you had a lift). Never been able to do it with a 18" bar either.

It also came in use when removing the rear lateral link bolts on subarus. I pull out the 40" 3/4 drive breaker bar to bust them loose (if the IR2235TiMAX can't do it). Once the bolt is loose, it's over to my SLX80A to ratchet the bolt out the rest of the way. Love that ratchet