Generator question

[threeputt]

A person give me a Robin RGX305D Generator with a Wisconsin Robin engine. The numbers on the engine is EY-25W. It had been sitting for some time but I got the carburetor cleaned, installed fresh gas and plug. Got governors working and according to my Kill-a-watt meter it is running at around 60hz under load and not under load.

The governor is working perfect now as I tweaked it for minor adjustment starting with static setting. It runs perfect and today I ran it for an hour and never missed a beat. I think these generators were made in the early 90's. I noticed some things missing like breaker and it has a broke gauge next to breaker. I am not sure if I need the breaker or not.

I know parts for these old things are expensive but so far I have not spent much on it. It has a panel with DC on it and not sure what that means. Maybe a battery charger. I did find the black wire coming from ignition to make a kill switch and it worked. It idles fine now and it is quite when running compared to the other old Tecumseh I have. I changed the oil also. Is this thing worth anything but really I want to keep it.

Just don't want to tie up more money getting some of the broken things repaired that I really may not need. Should I replace the breaker ? also it has a toggle switch that shifts it from 120/240 or plain 120. It is broke but looks like it is stuck in the 120/240 position. Thanks for any tips. Tom

 

[wyliesdiesels]

Yes u definitely need the breaker.

 

[threeputt]

Would one from home depot work ? and what amp should I get ? I am not even sure parts for this thing is available anymore so I got to do the best I can. THANKS. Tom

 

[threeputt]

Mine has the single no fuse breaker. From what I read this protects from maximum and its receptacles. If this generator is operated for long about the maximum current then I could get fried . The no fuse breaker would protect the thing from burning up and me and others danger ?? I knew it was there for a reason. Looking at the manual I found online it looks like I need a 15 amp breaker and I would assume any 15 amp breaker would work ?? Maybe I need an expert to check this thing out better but finding one is the problem around these parts without paying more than this thing is worth. I will not use it any more until I read and find out more. Thanks for any info on this. Tom

 

[wyliesdiesels]

Do u have pics?

The breaker protects the generator.

Are u saying there is a fuse?

No u cant just use any brand of breaker as that would violate the UL listing and could pose a fire hazard.

U need to find the correct breaker.

 

[threeputt]

Here is a picture of where the breaker is supposed to go. As you see it looks like someone broke it, also the toggle switch is broke shown in first picture. I included two more pictures also. How important is the meter that is broke? I am not ever sure these parts are available anymore but I can look on. Here is the link to the manual
http://www.subarupower.com/media/manuals/128613999686513750.pdf
If you know where I might find these I would appreciate it. THANKS. Tom

 

[wyliesdiesels]

All 3 of those are important.

The toggle is needed for switching voltage.

Breaker is needed to protect generator.

And voltmeter is important for checkong on voltage.

 

[threeputt]

I can purchase a ac voltmeter 150 volt and the price is not high. I can mount it close to where to original was. Don't know where to buy the other two ?? I can understand for some reason this generator was putting out to much juice and burned the winding and shorted something out as this would not be safe. The 120/240 toggle switch should be available somewhere other than this company as many things are no longer available for this old generator. This old thing run prefect and I sure don't want to scrap it but also don't want to spend more on parts than whats it worth. Any idea where I can find the no fuse breaker and toggle switch. I can move the toggle switch now with a screwdriver as the toggle part is just broke. I don't plan on using for anything running 220 anyway so why can't I just leave it where it is set now ? which is 240/120 setting ? Thanks for the help and any more tips much appreciated. Tom

 

[matt_i]

What's behind the panel, are the guts of these devices still inside there/handles wiped off, or have they been completely eliminated with the exception of the analog voltmeter?

I wouldn't hold out too much hope for parts, its a very long shot someone is hoarding a full complement of spares for this, in my opinion, you're going to have to install functional replacements.

 

[threeputt]

Got any ideas where I might locate these parts, ,maybe somewhere local ? . Behind the panel is the toggle switch which is broke on the outside part that flips up and down. The breaker was removed and wire nuts put on wires. All I really need is the breaker I would think as I can move the toggle switch if I had to with a screwdriver. I would like to replace it if I could though. THANKS. Tom

 

[threeputt]

Here is a picture of this 15 amp breaker switch and as you can see it is broken. There are two black wires with wire nuts on them close to where these would connect to the breaker and I assume that is where I connect a new breaker or some sort of fuse that would blow if it did indeed put out to many volts . The toggle switch has 6 wires soldered to the back of it. I think I can live with just leaving it on the 120/240 side unless it would cause a problem ? The 150 volt meter I can order for less than $8 on ebay and can make it work. I assume all these would tell me if it is putting out more volts than it is supposed to be ? I will order one. This engine runs as good as a new one since I got the carburetor repaired and the fuel/air mixture correct. Kill switch works perfect. It now will idle perfect when moving lever and wide open at 60 hz when moving it to the fast setting. Tom

 

[wyliesdiesels]

Breakers trip/fuses blow when there are too many AMPS flowing through them NOT volts.

 

[CNGsaves]

^ ^ ^ Unless of course it was a Chevy VOLT that ran into the genset !!! . . . .

. . . . but damn, that genset is SO OLD . . . there was no such thing as Chevy Volt back then !!

 

[6PTsocket]

Would one from home depot work ? and what amp should I get ? I am not even sure parts for this thing is available anymore so I got to do the best I can. THANKS. Tom

Beakers are pretty standard stuff and not very expensive. Not having seen it I cannot tell what you have. Take it into an electrical supply, not a big box store, lf the guy is at all sharp he might recognize it. Do some on line search for a match. An electronic supply might be a better source. It depends what is in there. Meters and switches are mostly off the shelf. You seem to be motor savy but electrical stuff is another deal. if you are not familiar with it. If you could post some pictures I might be able to help.


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[6PTsocket]

Beakers are pretty standard stuff and not very expensive. Not having seen it I cannot tell what you have. Take it into an electrical supply, not a big box store, lf the guy is at all sharp he might recognize it. Do some on line search for a match. An electronic supply might be a better source. It depends what is in there. Meters and switches are mostly off the shelf. You seem to be motor savy but electrical stuff is another deal. if you are not familiar with it. If you could post some pictures I might be able to help.


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I just checked. There are manuals out there. Call Subaru, not the car division, and see what they can tell you. At least you can get the rating of the breaker. Do you know how many watts the generator is? Comparing it to similar generators will give you an idea what size the breaker should be. This is not that old. At least the info should be out there.

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[threeputt]

I meant to type amps instead of volts. I do know the difference. I just don't work with electricity much because it could be the end of me
If a short did happen in the generator from overheating and then if someone touched the frame they could be electrocuted ? I am not planning on becoming an electrician at my age only trying to learn and make sure I don't get hurt or killed. Tom

 

[threeputt]

Beakers are pretty standard stuff and not very expensive. Not having seen it I cannot tell what you have. Take it into an electrical supply, not a big box store, lf the guy is at all sharp he might recognize it. Do some on line search for a match. An electronic supply might be a better source. It depends what is in there. Meters and switches are mostly off the shelf. You seem to be motor savy but electrical stuff is another deal. if you are not familiar with it. If you could post some pictures I might be able to help.


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Thanks, what pictures do you need. I posted a few but can post more. Tom

 

[6PTsocket]

I have good news and bad news. Like many items, when you buy it under the brand name of the company that made it or from a distributor that specializes in that type of part the price is reasonable. When it is sold under the part number of a company (Robin) that used the part in their product, the price becomes insane. From the numbers 30AF, HB2E and 15Amp on the picture that you put up I was able to detirmine that the circuit breaker is a Panasonic BS2021YT. I got hits for it in Japan, Thailand and China, especially Thailand. It is a $15 item after you convert from Bhat. It even cross references to other Asian brands. The bad news is I could not find it here, even on ebay. I did find it as a Robin part. It is sold By Jack's Small Engines and others under Subaru Robin part number RGR50010015CB for the insane price of $101 and change plus shipping. If it were me I would be fudging in something I could get here. It is a small 2 pole 15 Amp breaker. 2 pole means that it cuts off both sides of the line when it trips. Alternately I would be all over sites like Ali Express, to import one or trying to find an American equivalent. I hven't even looked at the switch and the meter but it looks like it would be from anybody but Subaru. Good luck.


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[6PTsocket]

I don't see my previous reply so I will try again. From the numbers on the breaker in your photo I was able to find out that it is a Panasonic BS2021YT. It is a 2 pole 15 Amp breaker that I found on electrical supply sites in Japan and Thailand for around ten or fifteen bucks. It is also available under the Subaru Robin part number RGR50010015CB at Jack's Small Engines and a few other lawn care type places, in this country, for $101. They have to be kidding. I found no direct source for the breaker as an off the shelf Panasonic part in this country. I don't think they market them here. I'm pretty stubborn and would search Asian sites until I found a small quantity seller or call Panasonic industrial. There are Asian cross references to other brands. I did,find a US cross reference. I would show the on line photos of the the panazo ic photo to electrical distributord to see if they had anything. I got my info from running 30AF HB2E and 15A tbat I was able to see in your photo. As a last resort I would make some American 2 pole, 15 Amp breaker fit. Good luck.






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[threeputt]

You are correct. No way I am going to pay Jacks Small engine that kind of money for so small a part. My electrician friend tells me he can come up with something that will work. He used to do this for a living and I trust his work. I will wait and see what he tells me Monday. THANKS.

 

[6PTsocket]

You are correct. No way I am going to pay Jacks Small engine that kind of money for so small a part. My electrician friend tells me he can come up with something that will work. He used to do this for a living and I trust his work. I will wait and see what he tells me Monday. THANKS.

Remember that most house breakers are single pole and only cut off the hot side of the line because the neutral is at or near ground potential. The exception is 220 volt breakers where both sides of the line are hot so the breaker has to cut off both legs. The generator is floating so either side could be above ground so be sure to use a 2 pole breaker like your old one. The original was 15 Amps.

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[threeputt]

6PTsocket, Like that name THANKS for the great info on this. I now understand why I cannot use a home breaker. I really appreciate your help on this. Tom

 

[threeputt]

Here is what the inside of panel looks like. As you see someone took both black wire which I assume are hot and wired them together without any protection like the no fuse breaker. I also showed the inside of panel where the 120/240 toggle switch goes. How important is it to have that the full power switch to use ? The best I can tell it is flipped to the 120/240 side as show in third picture. Tom

 

[Stevie-Ray]

Breakers trip/fuses blow when there are too many AMPS flowing through them NOT volts.

Fuses don't blow, they OPEN. Didn't they drum that into your head in DC/AC?


Shame on you.

 

[threeputt]

Just for the heck of it I checked the voltage today on the two black wires after removing the wire nut. Of course it was not running when I did this in case someone thinks I might get a shock

One has putting out anywhere from 200 to 320 volts when the generator was running at 60 hz. Not sure on how much should have been on that one black wire but it was all ever the place. The other back wire was showing about 60 to 120 volts. They were tied together and I just removed the wire nut and checked both black wires for juice.

Even with those two wires disconnected I still had power on the 110 side which is all I plan on using anyway. I want it to be safe but I don't plan on using this generator for anything other than running some power tools at my shop as I have my power turned off there.

I don't use this shop much but when I am there sometimes I need power. Do I still have to put the no fuse breaker if I am only going to use the 110 volt side ? Just asking ?? THANKS . Tom

 

[6PTsocket]

Fuses don't blow, they OPEN. Didn't they drum that into your head in DC/AC?


Shame on you.[emoji38]_hitti

Shame on YOU. I have worked in electronics my whole life. My schooling goes far beyond AC/DC and blown fuse is the operative term. Circuit breakers TRIP, but I never hassle people over their choice of words unless it is confusing the issue.

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[wyliesdiesels]

Fuses don't blow, they OPEN. Didn't they drum that into your head in DC/AC?


Shame on you.

saying a fuse opens implies that it can be reclosed which obviously it cant because it is now broken or blown.

 

[Stevie-Ray]

Holy **** guys, it was a joke, or didn't the smiley give it away?

I joined the apprenticeship in 1994 and there wasn't a single instructor then that wouldn't correct you if you said blown fuse, with a healthy "fuses don't blow-THEY OPEN!"

Sorry to have caused what seemingly amounts to a slap in the face, it was unintentional.

FWIW, I still say blown fuse.