New 24'x24' Bungalow Woodshop/Autoshop in California
- Thread starter nitro3421
- Start date
I've been buying all my LED stuff from www.lightingever.com They have good prices and nice China made stuff
camarosrus69
Well-known member
Did you try the link in post #426? That one worked for me.
Love the workbench and upper cabinets. I see your drawing for the tabletop, but can't quite make out total width. I plan on doing 5ea 44" boxes, just like you did along 1 wall. Can you tell me the total length of the bench? Are you doing 1/4" gap between boxes?
nicobkn
Well-known member
Fantastic!
Lots of progress this weekend. Started & finished the driveway gate wrap and got tons of speakers hooked up, including a roaming base station for my Apple Airport so I have a nice strong Wifi signal in the garage for the Sonos system & 8 speakers in the back.
Also finished up a retrofit speaker install at the front of the house & in the porch ceiling (flat roof... fishing those wires was a pain in the ***).
Small speakers same size as can lights:
Garage sound system partially installed:
Also finished up a retrofit speaker install at the front of the house & in the porch ceiling (flat roof... fishing those wires was a pain in the ***).
Small speakers same size as can lights:
Garage sound system partially installed:
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neilc
Well-known member
Wow. That gate looks great.
And the speakers look nice.
What brand of speakers are those soffit units?
And the speakers look nice.
What brand of speakers are those soffit units?
shortykorte
Well-known member
Fabulous.
Thanks for showing the CAD drawing. How much $ was the SS and how much to have it cut/brake?
Can't wait to see the garage rocks.
Thanks for showing the CAD drawing. How much $ was the SS and how much to have it cut/brake?
Can't wait to see the garage rocks.
Corvette Cave
Well-known member
WOW!
Nice Job+
Nice Job+
All the speakers came from these guys: http://www.outdoorspeakerdepot.com/
Great value for the money.
Fabulous.
Thanks for showing the CAD drawing. How much $ was the SS and how much to have it cut/brake?
Can't wait to see the garage rocks.
The countertop is just regular steel, not SS. $600 total for material/labor. It's 14 gauge, so super thick. You'd have to work hard to dent it.
Anyone on here good with speaker wiring? The only issue I'm having so far is with my speaker splitter. I should be able to control each pair with the push of a button (buttons 1-6 on the selector in photo above), however if ANY single zone is selected to be on, ALL the speakers (4 pairs/8 speakers) all come on.
Any ideas?
Any ideas?
Blackbird72
New member
- Joined
- Sep 8, 2015
- Messages
- 1
I've had several people PM me recently asking for more info/pointers on the in floor scissor lift install. I've included some additional photos below of the pit forming and notes:
1.) Follow the spec sheet from Atlas exactly regarding pit size, conduit length to controller, and space between pits. I cheated the minimum distance from edge of pit to wall, which just resulted in some extra hydraulic line I coiled up inside the wall behind the controller.
2.) I used 1-1/8" plywood for the forms and had 12" of concrete below the pits. Overkill but I have no regrets.
3.) Run an extra conduit as shown in photos from both pits to the wall. It gives you the flexibility to flip around the lifts/controller if needed. Cheap insurance.
4.) I ran the conduit (4" SDR 35 drain pipe) up the wall, not on the face. This allowed me to cut in a remodel AV box over the 4" conduit in the wall for a super clean install. Then I mounted the controller on top so it appears "floating" with the lines coming through the back. Run the conduit tight up against the pit forms so after you strip the forms, you can take a diamond bit on an angle grinder to cut out the thin bit of concrete into the conduit allowing clear access all the way to the wall. Wire tie the conduit to the formwork so it doesnt float during the pour.
5.) I'd highly recommend doing the angle iron frame. Drill a few holes to run some screws through the angle iron into the formwork (1-1/8" plywood) and ideally pull the screws before the concrete sets to make removal easier. Weld on some rebar at an angle back into the concrete to keep the frame from over coming loose.
6.) The 2x legs off the forms were pulled before the concrete set up completely allowing it to be troweled smooth.
I didnt install the actual lifts myself - this was done by a pro so I can't comment on the actual installation. Most important is the pit setup, which is detailed above and shown in photos below. Hope this helps.
1.) Follow the spec sheet from Atlas exactly regarding pit size, conduit length to controller, and space between pits. I cheated the minimum distance from edge of pit to wall, which just resulted in some extra hydraulic line I coiled up inside the wall behind the controller.
2.) I used 1-1/8" plywood for the forms and had 12" of concrete below the pits. Overkill but I have no regrets.
3.) Run an extra conduit as shown in photos from both pits to the wall. It gives you the flexibility to flip around the lifts/controller if needed. Cheap insurance.
4.) I ran the conduit (4" SDR 35 drain pipe) up the wall, not on the face. This allowed me to cut in a remodel AV box over the 4" conduit in the wall for a super clean install. Then I mounted the controller on top so it appears "floating" with the lines coming through the back. Run the conduit tight up against the pit forms so after you strip the forms, you can take a diamond bit on an angle grinder to cut out the thin bit of concrete into the conduit allowing clear access all the way to the wall. Wire tie the conduit to the formwork so it doesnt float during the pour.
5.) I'd highly recommend doing the angle iron frame. Drill a few holes to run some screws through the angle iron into the formwork (1-1/8" plywood) and ideally pull the screws before the concrete sets to make removal easier. Weld on some rebar at an angle back into the concrete to keep the frame from over coming loose.
6.) The 2x legs off the forms were pulled before the concrete set up completely allowing it to be troweled smooth.
I didnt install the actual lifts myself - this was done by a pro so I can't comment on the actual installation. Most important is the pit setup, which is detailed above and shown in photos below. Hope this helps.
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shortykorte
Well-known member
Definitely makes for a good work table/bench.
ddawg16
Well-known member
Impressive build.
Love the attention to detail.
Do you take your car out to the track? And if you do, is it NASA events? If so, I bet we know some of the same people.
Love the attention to detail.
Do you take your car out to the track? And if you do, is it NASA events? If so, I bet we know some of the same people.
elguappo
Well-known member
I imagine he would go to Thunderhill.
jimmie jam
Well-known member
OUTSTANDING BUILD! I have to ask about the gutters...typically they would be one of if not the last thing added. Did you seal and paint behind them before install or is everything behind the gutters unfinished? Just wondering...
I've done a few NASA events, but its been several years (6 or 8 years ago). Last one I did was at Buttonwillow. They're a blast but I can't imagine having the time these days...
Good question - I primed/finish painted all the fascia and crown before all the copper gutters and roof flashing went on. Definitely better than masking off to the gutters and leaving the fascia unpainted.
derek_gardner
Member
Where did you find those adjustable feet that go in to the steel tube??
Thanks
Thanks
streetking
Well-known member
- Joined
- Mar 17, 2016
- Messages
- 52
Really nice garage! Did the concrete from the side overflown and raised the level of the lift pads inside the form at all when it was poured? What psi concrete was poured?
Great idea! I might glue some rare earth magnets on the underside of the counter then cut a piece of sheet metal slightly larger than the opening and have it stick to the top for a flush look.
Here are the tube inserts: http://www.jwwinco.com/products/section7/en448s/index.html
part# 448V150V1376T
Here are the adjustable feet: http://www.jwwinco.com/products/section7/sn974/index.html
Part #6T1500FA9
Not much, all comes down to the correct slump. I wasn't actually there during the pour but i know this can be controlled with the correct slump. I'm sure some had to be scooped out as it began to set up.
camarosrus69
Well-known member
A couple thoughts. I think you said that the counter top is mild steel, so glue would not be necessary. Second, using magnets this way would magnetize your counter top, at least locally. I think that metal bits would stick to it, and make it harder to clean or get sucked into the duct. The vinyl/magnet cover would be much weaker and when removed, would break the magnetic connection.
Starting a new project - building an outdoor dining table for 12 people. It will be a blackened aluminum frame with some reclaimed old growth fir from an old house for the table top.
Here are the rough sawn boards in raw form:
I wire brushed them down to this to give it some nice texture:
Here are the rough sawn boards in raw form:
I wire brushed them down to this to give it some nice texture:
CubbyChowder
Well-known member
- Joined
- May 16, 2013
- Messages
- 175
Man, what a cool build. I really like the aesthetic you've created, top quality job on everything. I dream of being able to build my own shop one day and deck it out the way you have.
Also, just a quick tip for you. I've noticed that you respond to people in separate replies. If you'd like to reply to several people in one post, you can click on "multi-quote" on all of the posts you'd like to reply to and then click "quote" on the last one. It will lay each comment out in the order that you clicked on them. Makes for a cleaner, less cluttered thread in my opinion, just thought I'd pass that info your way in case you didn't know.
Anyways, awesome work on everything and I really enjoyed reading through this thread. I should really get off my computer now haha.
Also, just a quick tip for you. I've noticed that you respond to people in separate replies. If you'd like to reply to several people in one post, you can click on "multi-quote" on all of the posts you'd like to reply to and then click "quote" on the last one. It will lay each comment out in the order that you clicked on them. Makes for a cleaner, less cluttered thread in my opinion, just thought I'd pass that info your way in case you didn't know.
Anyways, awesome work on everything and I really enjoyed reading through this thread. I should really get off my computer now haha.
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Good call! I'll try to figure out something creative.
Thanks for the explanation - always wondered how that worked and never spent the time to look into it. Pretty easy! Good luck on your build.
Trey T
Well-known member
beautiful lawn ... I just love the look of clean backyard w/ just grass
More progress on the table this week.
Here's my shop drawing i drew up for the frame:
And here's the frame in raw form. I need to hit the entire surface with a sander to even out the milled/welded surfaces then blacken it with a special aluminum blackening solution.
Here's my shop drawing i drew up for the frame:
And here's the frame in raw form. I need to hit the entire surface with a sander to even out the milled/welded surfaces then blacken it with a special aluminum blackening solution.
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drivesitfar
Well-known member
Nitro: Awesome stuff going on in and at your place as per usual. WELL DONE!!
I think i'm going to LOVE the table you are building and post up lots of pictures and details if you have time.
great to see the BMW running again and your driveway, fence and access looks awesome and happy to hear you can get your truck back there too.
as far as multy quotes since you seem to post very soon after the members post you can just put in names like i do if you've seen a few of my multy posts and i just highlight the name of the members. check out the vise thread if you want some good examples cause i'm usually responding to 1 to 10 posters when i post there. CC's method works too, but my way might keep the thread a little less cluttered with repeated posts. i used to do it CC's way that GJ designed, but when a quote is picture heavy it would really make my post huge and take up a full page of the thread. you can also delete part of the quotes after you get them on your post if you are only responding to a part of the poster's post if that helps.
cheers and keep up the great work.
I think i'm going to LOVE the table you are building and post up lots of pictures and details if you have time.
great to see the BMW running again and your driveway, fence and access looks awesome and happy to hear you can get your truck back there too.
as far as multy quotes since you seem to post very soon after the members post you can just put in names like i do if you've seen a few of my multy posts and i just highlight the name of the members. check out the vise thread if you want some good examples cause i'm usually responding to 1 to 10 posters when i post there. CC's method works too, but my way might keep the thread a little less cluttered with repeated posts. i used to do it CC's way that GJ designed, but when a quote is picture heavy it would really make my post huge and take up a full page of the thread. you can also delete part of the quotes after you get them on your post if you are only responding to a part of the poster's post if that helps.
cheers and keep up the great work.
shortykorte
Well-known member
Nice table base. This will be interesting to see the finished product.
Scuderia-F1
Well-known member
Great looking shop/home, thanks for sharing!