Craftsman atlas 6x18 lathe question

[Brorex]

I bought this lathe for about $20 here a while back. The PO had stripped all the gears out of it and was using a drill to power it. It seemed like all the stuff was there though so I bought it.
I'm slowly trying to get it back to working. This is my first lathe and I've never machined anything in my life but have been wanting to for a while now. I'd really just use it to make vise handles and what not to get started.
I'm putting the head stock pulley assembly back in and where the shaft goes through there are brass sleeves in the pulleys and also the housing with places to put oil in above the sleeves. Is the brass supposed to turn in the housing or does the shaft turn in the brass. It doesn't seem to me like any oil would get to the shaft inside the sleeve but that's where it turns freely is inside the brass.
This is what I've come up with as far as assembly goes and I believe I have it right. Any input is appreciated. Thanks


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[MShaw]

Yes the spindle in the bushings and the oil will get to them thru the oil cups. Also, the screw in the groove of the pulley is removed to oil the bushings in the pulley.

The reason for the bushings in the pulley is because the pulley rotates on the spindle when the back gears are used. There is a pin protruding from the front of the large gear. With the back gears disengaged and the pin pushed into a hole in the front of the pulley you are in direct drive. With the pin pulled out and the back gears engaged you are running at a slow speed thru the backgears. You will have to push the pin in and rotate the spindle slowly until the pin aligns with a hole.

I hope this helps.

 

[454ragtop]

Looks like you're missing the countershaft drive, as well as most of the gearing to the lead screw? Info here http://www.lathes.co.uk/atlas6inch/ as well as a Yahoo group for this lathe https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/atlas_craftsman/info
Might be able to get around these items with a variable speed motor to drive the headstock, and maybe another variable speed motor to drive the lead screw, although this wouldn't work for threading.

 

[Brorex]

Looks like you're missing the countershaft drive, as well as most of the gearing to the lead screw? Info here http://www.lathes.co.uk/atlas6inch/ as well as a Yahoo group for this lathe https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/atlas_craftsman/info
Might be able to get around these items with a variable speed motor to drive the headstock, and maybe another variable speed motor to drive the lead screw, although this wouldn't work for threading.

Thanks. I do have most of the gears I believe just haven't out them on yet. Currently cleaning all the gunk off of them. Thanks for the info and the links.

Yes the spindle in the bushings and the oil will get to them thru the oil cups. Also, the screw in the groove of the pulley is removed to oil the bushings in the pulley.

The reason for the bushings in the pulley is because the pulley rotates on the spindle when the back gears are used. There is a pin protruding from the front of the large gear. With the back gears disengaged and the pin pushed into a hole in the front of the pulley you are in direct drive. With the pin pulled out and the back gears engaged you are running at a slow speed thru the backgears. You will have to push the pin in and rotate the spindle slowly until the pin aligns with a hole.

I hope this helps.

That does help. Thanks I was just having a hard time seeing how it would lube through the oil cups with the brass bushings being so tight. Thankyou for your help

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[Cruzan80]

The brass is actually sintered bronze bearings. Powdered bronze pressed into shape, so the entire thing is porous. Oil seeps thru them to the shaft.

 

[Brorex]

The brass is actually sintered bronze bearings. Powdered bronze pressed into shape, so the entire thing is porous. Oil seeps thru them to the shaft.

Oh....well that makes better sense to me. Thanks. Is there a certain kind of oil that should be used? Right now I'm using 3in1 motor oil which is SAE 20 it says on bottle

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[Cruzan80]

Most of my older stuff calls for straight SAE 20W, but some people have had great luck with Compressor oil (SAE 30W). Unfortunately to get non-detergent 20W (for compressors and such), you can either buy it by the quart (very expensive) or 12-pack of quarts (for 2-2.5x the single quart price for all, but then you have 3 gallons of oil for a small handful of tools).

 

[Brorex]

Most of my older stuff calls for straight SAE 20W, but some people have had great luck with Compressor oil (SAE 30W). Unfortunately to get non-detergent 20W (for compressors and such), you can either buy it by the quart (very expensive) or 12-pack of quarts (for 2-2.5x the single quart price for all, but then you have 3 gallons of oil for a small handful of tools).

Thanks. I have access to rarus 827 that's 30 weight oil. I know this is a hard question. But how fast should it use oil. Is the bronze always just soaking oil and using it. Just trying to make sure that it is working the way it should as parts are spendy and a little hard to find. Thanks again for the help.

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[Cruzan80]

IIRC, the manuals for mine say to check monthly. The reservoirs on these are not too big, so keeping them topped up shouldn't take too much. Just ran down and grabbed the model no. so I can copy paste the correct section about them. Mine is a belt sander, but the same logic should apply.

 

[Craptain]

You can download a manual for it from vintagemachinery.org. With that you will have all you need to identify and hopefully assemble your lathe. Along with other helpful information on lubrication etc.
I have the Atlas version of that lathe and believe me I paid a lot more than that. But it is slowly starting to repay the investment.

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[Brorex]

IIRC, the manuals for mine say to check monthly. The reservoirs on these are not too big, so keeping them topped up shouldn't take too much. Just ran down and grabbed the model no. so I can copy paste the correct section about them. Mine is a belt sander, but the same logic should apply.

You can download a manual for it from vintagemachinery.org. With that you will have all you need to identify and hopefully assemble your lathe. Along with other helpful information on lubrication etc.
I have the Atlas version of that lathe and believe me I paid a lot more than that. But it is slowly starting to repay the investment.

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Thanks to the both of you I have it assembled to what I believe is correct now. I do have some other gears left. I'm assuming they're for different speeds or threads? I got most of what you see in the pics attached with the machine except for some of the bits and the tool box which is a ratty old kennedy box. I'd like to rebuild it at some point but time and funds will be the deciding factor on that.

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[Zeeman]

Dang, that machine is impressive. I will probably have to have one of those, even though I've never machined anything either. Nice job.

 

[ritestuff]

These little machines get "dumped on" quite frequently around here as "toys" or "inferior", but I've done, and seen some amazing work performed by these little lathes. I have one set up right now for strictly making small parts using primarily aluminum and delrin. If used within it's limitations, I just fail to see the downside. It takes up little space and serves me well. Machining is more about skill than the equipment being used. I've seen fantastic work done on "inferior" machines, and seen inferior work done on fantastic machines.

 

[tombell572]

For lubrication requirements, you want something fairly thin for the spindle--Velocite #10 is a common choise. For the ways, I use Vactra #2 way oil--its "sticky" and stays in place as is necessary. I would check all oil points at each use--you really can't over-oil it. They run on a "total loss" basis-excess oil will eventually drool out which is normal.

As ritestuff noted, these lathes are often subject to criticism, but if is is used as designed it should serve you well. Don't expect more than it was designed to give you and build your skills. Also, note the prices that these machines get sold for on Ebay--there's a good market for them.

Tom B.

 

[FunkyfullWidth]

One of the best additions for these lathes are a quick change tool post.. A2Z makes a decent one, but there's others out there. I'm a big fan of the Triangular replaceable bits. Any idea what thread size your spindle is? Mine is a 1x10. Took forever to find good old used chucks for it. A 4 jaw is good, but sometimes takes a while to set up. If your just looking to turn something down real quick that doesn't need to be Super precise a 3 jaw is perfect.

I went through 3 used 3 jaw chucks and still don't have one that works right. I was sent a few that were advertised as the wrong thread size, and the last one's jaws were so far out of wack I couldn't get anything centered correctly.

 

[schor]

For your oil get 3in1 motor oil. It's 20 weight non detergent. I use it on my atlas lathe.

http://www.3inone.com/products/motor-oil/

 

[gte718p]

These little machines get "dumped on" quite frequently around here as "toys" or "inferior", but I've done, and seen some amazing work performed by these little lathes. I have one set up right now for strictly making small parts using primarily aluminum and delrin. If used within it's limitations, I just fail to see the downside. It takes up little space and serves me well. Machining is more about skill than the equipment being used. I've seen fantastic work done on "inferior" machines, and seen inferior work done on fantastic machines.

I'm with you. I have the same lathe with the Atlas branding. I'm amazed how much use I get out of it.

 

[bill300d]

For your oil get 3in1 motor oil. It's 20 weight non detergent. I use it on my atlas lathe.

http://www.3inone.com/products/motor-oil/

Make sure you get the blue and white can, not the red and white can.

 

[Brorex]

Dang, that machine is impressive. I will probably have to have one of those, even though I've never machined anything either. Nice job.

Thankyou. I am more impressed by it everytime I look at it. Just thrilled and ready to learn all about it.

These little machines get "dumped on" quite frequently around here as "toys" or "inferior", but I've done, and seen some amazing work performed by these little lathes. I have one set up right now for strictly making small parts using primarily aluminum and delrin. If used within it's limitations, I just fail to see the downside. It takes up little space and serves me well. Machining is more about skill than the equipment being used. I've seen fantastic work done on "inferior" machines, and seen inferior work done on fantastic machines.

Thanks. I'm trying to find stock right now that I can just figure things out with for now. I don't have a lot of tooling but that will come in the future

For lubrication requirements, you want something fairly thin for the spindle--Velocite #10 is a common choise. For the ways, I use Vactra #2 way oil--its "sticky" and stays in place as is necessary. I would check all oil points at each use--you really can't over-oil it. They run on a "total loss" basis-excess oil will eventually drool out which is normal.

As ritestuff noted, these lathes are often subject to criticism, but if is is used as designed it should serve you well. Don't expect more than it was designed to give you and build your skills. Also, note the prices that these machines get sold for on Ebay--there's a good market for them.

Tom B.

One of the best additions for these lathes are a quick change tool post.. A2Z makes a decent one, but there's others out there. I'm a big fan of the Triangular replaceable bits. Any idea what thread size your spindle is? Mine is a 1x10. Took forever to find good old used chucks for it. A 4 jaw is good, but sometimes takes a while to set up. If your just looking to turn something down real quick that doesn't need to be Super precise a 3 jaw is perfect.

I went through 3 used 3 jaw chucks and still don't have one that works right. I was sent a few that were advertised as the wrong thread size, and the last one's jaws were so far out of wack I couldn't get anything centered correctly.

I am definitely going to look into one of these tool holders. I agree that it would be an awesome addition. Mine came with a 3 jaw Chuck and also a 4 jaw Chuck that while they have a little surface rust seem to work just fine. Thankyou

For your oil get 3in1 motor oil. It's 20 weight non detergent. I use it on my atlas lathe.

http://www.3inone.com/products/motor-oil/

In one of the pics you can see a bottle of 3 in1 motor oil that's what I've been using so far.

I'm with you. I have the same lathe with the Atlas branding. I'm amazed how much use I get out of it.

Thanks.

Make sure you get the blue and white can, not the red and white can.

Thanks

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