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Bending EMT, last bend into ceiling

freebo86

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So I was surface mounting some receptacles in the garage and buddy lend me a bender. So I used it and bend myself a 'L' coming down into the box. However where the emt pops up into the ceiling is about 1-3/4" gap between wall and centre or conduit before it pops in so the conduit doesn't sit flush against the wall. See pics.

I am trying to figure out how do I make this bend so that the conduit sits flush but then curves and goes up in the ceiling.. looked at endless videos and all appear to be the 3 saddle bends. Not sure if I'm just over complicating this or having a massive brain freeze.

Any tips? I don't want to mess this piece up as I got it perfect after a few tries but I just need it to curve into the ceiling. Ignore the hole that's right against the wall - there is a joist right above it that's why I had to move out some..
 

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NUTTSGT

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So you need to create an offset ? That's basically two 45s close together.



EDIT:
attached pic

for reference only....and quite exaggerated
 

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freebo86

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So you need to create an offset ? That's basically two 45s close together.



EDIT:
attached pic

for reference only....and quite exaggerated


I guess yes it's called an offset. I watched videos and to do a 30deg bend if use a multiplier of 2. My depth is like 1-3/4".

My issue is I don't know where on the conduit to make the marks as they all take a measurement and then add or subtract this multiplier offset which in my case is 3.5".
 

bczygan

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I guess yes it's called an offset. I watched videos and to do a 30deg bend if use a multiplier of 2. My depth is like 1-3/4".

My issue is I don't know where on the conduit to make the marks as they all take a measurement and then add or subtract this multiplier offset which in my case is 3.5".

That would depend on the EMT diameter and length of the bent portion, right?

https://www.google.com/search?q=math+for+bending+conduit&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8

Edit: Looks like diameter doesn't matter, but you should be using 22 1/2 degree bends to make pulling easier.

Bill
 
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LXCam

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30 degree bends for an offset is always the same regardless of pipe diameter. Double the amount of the offset distance between your marks. Make you first mark a couple inches away from the wall and your second mark 3.5". The end going into the wall will always be facing away from you. Another word put your mark at the arrow on the bender, make your bend the slide the pipe away from you to the second mark, twist the pipe 180 degrees and make your second bend.
 
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freebo86

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https://www.idealind.com/content/pdfs/guides/conduit_bender_guide.pdf

http://www.gardnerbender.com/~/media/websites/resources/gb/documents/b-0040_bender_how_to_guide.pdf

Like other said offset, very easy to do, but easy to over think. Do enough emt you really do not measure for offsets you just know or have a emt off setter for the size.

Don't follow your last sentence?

Thanks for the links, so second link says to measure distance from conduit so I am assuming I'd measure from where my L turns and goes straight up towards ceiling is start measuring from there, which for me was 85.5" to the ceiling.

So I add shrinkage to that I get 85-11/16" and then subtract the distance between bends and mark at 80-7/16"

Is this right?
 

bullnerd

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Why not use the little clip stands that space it off the wall and go straight into the box and ceiling?

No bending. Does it have to be flush to the wall?
 

bczygan

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Don't follow your last sentence?

Thanks for the links, so second link says to measure distance from conduit so I am assuming I'd measure from where my L turns and goes straight up towards ceiling is start measuring from there, which for me was 85.5" to the ceiling.

So I add shrinkage to that I get 85-11/16" and then subtract the distance between bends and mark at 80-7/16"

Is this right?

I wouldn't worry about the shrinkage. Does it matter it it goes straight for 1/2" after the top offset before it goes through the ceiling?

Bill
 

R.Anderson

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Don't follow your last sentence?

Thanks for the links, so second link says to measure distance from conduit so I am assuming I'd measure from where my L turns and goes straight up towards ceiling is start measuring from there, which for me was 85.5" to the ceiling.

So I add shrinkage to that I get 85-11/16" and then subtract the distance between bends and mark at 80-7/16"

Is this right?

Personally would not mess with measurement for L just have the offset made a little lower so it takes any chance you make it too high. Just figure out the distance between the two bends. All yo need for a measurement to figure this out is Z and the size of the conduit.

Far as last sentence, when you have layed enough conduit making offset like this become second nature and you end up not needing to measure. Or you use a tool that makes a preset size offset for going into 4sqs and panels.
 

zmaxmotorsports

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I like to put the end of pipe flush with the end of the hook on bender for 1st bend on a box offset.
For the second I mark the pipe 6" up from the end and use that as my point to line up with arrow,roll pipe 180 degrees,then bend second offset.
Makes it easy to duplicate on seperate pieces of conduit in same box.
 
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freebo86

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Why not use the little clip stands that space it off the wall and go straight into the box and ceiling?

No bending. Does it have to be flush to the wall?

I'd rather just bend it than use any kind of stand offs. Also with it being away from the wall I can't really fasten it with the strap.

I wouldn't worry about the shrinkage. Does it matter it it goes straight for 1/2" after the top offset before it goes through the ceiling?

Bill

I dont care what it looks like once it goes through the ceiling. I just want it flush to the wall as it approaches ceiling then bend out and up into that hole.

Personally would not mess with measurement for L just have the offset made a little lower so it takes any chance you make it too high. Just figure out the distance between the two bends. All yo need for a measurement to figure this out is Z and the size of the conduit.

Far as last sentence, when you have layed enough conduit making offset like this become second nature and you end up not needing to measure. Or you use a tool that makes a preset size offset for going into 4sqs and panels.

Make the offset a little lower then where the conduit goes through the hole? Is that what your saying?
 
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Movover

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Of course if you don't want to go through the hell of trying to learn how to bend an offset you can use one of these :
 

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freebo86

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Interesting but that other end has a thread on it, then id have to get another female like adapter?
 

Marctrees

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Freebo - The Math is of course all good, but sometimes frustrating.

How bout this - Take a length of pipe LONGER by a few feet than you need.

Put your offset somewhere in the "middle" of this overlength stick.

No numbers, no pencil marks, just your eye to bend a small offset with the experience you have.

If the offset you made is a little too deep, or a little to shallw, you can massage it more accurate w the bender, or even jently over your knee, assuming 3/4" EMT or smaller.

Point is, once you are happy with your offset, measured laying on your workfloor, THEN cut the pipe two ends to length, thereby placing the offset WHERE you want it to be, lengthwise on that resulting cut pipe.

Maybe nothing new, but maybe looking at the problem this way may help.

So you wasted, maybe , a few foot of drop.

I dunno, no bigee. Marc
 

bczygan

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I'd rather just bend it than use any kind of stand offs. Also with it being away from the wall I can't really fasten it with the strap.



I dont care what it looks like once it goes through the ceiling. I just want it flush to the wall as it approaches ceiling then bend out and up into that hole.



Make the offset a little lower then where the conduit goes through the hole? Is that what your saying?

That's what we're both saying. Even an inch wouldn't matter.

Bill
 

bczygan

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Freebo - The Math is of course all good, but sometimes frustrating.

How bout this - Take a length of pipe LONGER by a few feet than you need.

Put your offset somewhere in the "middle" of this overlength stick.

No numbers, no pencil marks, just your eye to bend a small offset with the experience you have.

If the offset you made is a little too deep, or a little to shallw, you can massage it more accurate w the bender, or even jently over your knee, assuming 3/4" EMT or smaller.

Point is, once you are happy with your offset, measured laying on your workfloor, THEN cut the pipe two ends to length, thereby placing the offset WHERE you want it to be, lengthwise on that resulting cut pipe.

Maybe nothing new, but maybe looking at the problem this way may help.

So you wasted, maybe , a few foot of drop.

I dunno, no bigee. Marc

Except he needs two offsets. One at the bottom and one at the top.

Of course he could do as you suggest with two pieces and use a straight connector somewhere in the middle.

Bill
 

R.Anderson

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I'd rather just bend it than use any kind of stand offs. Also with it being away from the wall I can't really fasten it with the strap.



I dont care what it looks like once it goes through the ceiling. I just want it flush to the wall as it approaches ceiling then bend out and up into that hole.



Make the offset a little lower then where the conduit goes through the hole? Is that what your saying?

Yup, easy
 

Marctrees

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Then theres also the possibility of securing a 2x4 standoff on the wall, and strapping to it, eliminating any offsets.

Maybe not passing the OC test, but I'm pretty sure it's been done, not only by hacks. Marc

So paint it white., and go worry about your upcoming colonoscopy, not some one damn pipe.
 
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freebo86

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All in place boys, we can all rest easy now :) Thanks for the inputs.

Anyways got it as good as possible and continued on with my wiring work. Can someone comment on a 50A plug, what size box is adequate for it I had a 4"-1 1/2" box seems to shallow guess need a deeper one.

Also, same for a 30A plug to be used with a heater. What size of 4" box should be used?
 
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