Excess current draw from refrigerator

[MScott]

I am off grid an consequently try to be aware of any unusual current draws on the system. Lately, I have noticed that my usage is higher than normal and have traced the problem to my refrigerator. It seems to be drawing about 12 to 20 amps whereas I think the draw should be below 7 amps (not sure about the actual draw it should have.) It is a Whirlpool side by side with ice maker in the door.
What would be the reason for an unusually high current draw? I'm not sure where to start.

 

[BillK]

There should be a data plate somewhere to tell you the normal amp draw. Usually if you open the door you can find it.

The only thing I can think of is the defrost heater being stuck on all of the time. There is a timer that turns it on for a few minutes every 12 hours or some other interval. If the timer happens to stop running when the heater is on I imagine it would be a pretty good draw.

Hope this helps,

 

[Professur]

Dust?

 

[Showkey]

I would agree with the defrost heater stuck on but that would likely also cause poor cooling complaint.

Find the defrost timer.....there's is an access hole where there is a one way plastic screw. Turn the screw slowly and watch the draw for a change.

 

[Milton Shaw]

Unplug the door connector, either at top or bottom hinge and see what the draw is. Ice makers have heaters in them that will draw a lot of current. IF the icemaker is not in the door then unplug it in the freezer. If the heater is stuck on the refig will run all the time to try to keep it cool and that will increase the load too.

 

[ForceFed70]

I've seen excessive current draw as a precursor to pump failure.

 

[MikeF2316]

Dust?

Yes, I'd start by cleaning the condenser. And making sure air can flow past it. My wife once dropped a sweater behind our freezer. It had the effect of blocking the airflow under the unit so the condenser didn't cool, so the compressor ran all the time.

 

[ewang]

Feel around the doors to determine if a defrost heater is running on overdrive. Could be a bad temp sensor, or board. But my guess is defrost.

 

[R.Anderson]

Is your ice maker working? The tray has a heating element to dump the ice formed. Maybe stuck on all the time. Refrigerant leak, compressor is running longer to keep temp. Also as mentioned already: defrost stuck on, needs to be cleaned, compressor failure is near.

 

[MScott]

Thanks for all the responses. I really appreciate all the help. Turns out the fridge had been pushed in too close to the wall and was not cooling properly as it sits in an enclosed space between cabinets. I pulled it out a couple of inches and the draw has dropped to around 3-4 amps.

 

[Professur]

Bingo.

 

[MikeF2316]

Bingo.

 

[larry4406]

Good find.

Now post some details of your off grid system and how you isolated the excess draw of the fridge.

 

[nehog]

You're running a 'standard' fridge off-grid? I'd get a 3 way fridge (gas, battery, 120 volt) which will be much more efficient.

 

[MScott]

Good find.

Now post some details of your off grid system and how you isolated the excess draw of the fridge.

You're running a 'standard' fridge off-grid? I'd get a 3 way fridge (gas, battery, 120 volt) which will be much more efficient.

My system consists of a 3500 watt bank of fixed solar panels (seasonally adjustable only) feeding a bank of 24 C&D Technology lithium ion batteries with a total of 48 volts. It uses twin Xantrex inverters to give 120/240 volt output. Backup is a 48 volt generator (originally designed for US Army tanks apparently) powered by a 3 cyl Perkins diesel and feeding directly into the battery pack.
One of the great parts of this system is that I can have a fully functional house and garage and use standard refrigerator and freezer. I do use propane for my cookstove, fireplace and back up heat and, of course, use LED lighting and employ normal conservation practices but I don't have to be fanatical about it.

My method of isolating the current draw was very low tech. I clamped my Greenlees meter over the output cable from the battery pack and systematically turned of circuit breakers in my main panel until I found the one that dropped the reading. That turned out to be the refrigerator circuit.

 

[TractorJeff]

Can I ask what is the watt output of the twin Xantrex inverters?

 

[MScott]

I'm honestly not sure. I didn't design the system...that was up to the solar installer. They are model #SW5548 if that helps.

 

[LS6 Tommy]

I thought I posted to check the condenser for fuzz & clearance. Oh, well, at least you got it.

Tommy

 

[Richard Cranium]

Maybe put a block of 2x4 behind it so that it don't get pushed in again.

 

[Short Track]

How long do the batteries last? What if leaves & snow covers the panels? How long can you stay off grid ?

I see you can max draw about 29 amps at 120v... that's actually pretty decent if you're not running A/C.

 

[walrus]

I've never heard of anyone not running a gas fridge when off grid.

 

[MScott]

How long do the batteries last? What if leaves & snow covers the panels? How long can you stay off grid ?

I see you can max draw about 29 amps at 120v... that's actually pretty decent if you're not running A/C.

I've never heard of anyone not running a gas fridge when off grid.

Batteries are supposed to last 15-20 years. (We'll see ) Leaves are never a problem but I have a roof rake to remove sticky snow. The winter position of the panels is very steep though so it usually clears itself. Depending on the load and the charge of the batteries I can stay up to a couple of days without sun, but a one hour charge with the backup generator will fully charge the batteries. Since the diesel only runs at idle during charging it is very economical.
I haven't needed A/C since the house is very well insulated (and of course, I live in a moderate climate.) I do have a window A/C unit but I have only used it a couple of nights since I moved in.
Until the recent loading problems, the electric fridge had never been a problem. I also use most other normal electrical devices such as microwave, coffee maker and toaster as well as shop tools.

 

[theoldwizard1]

Check the VOLTAGE at the refrigerator when it is starting up. I'll bet it is dropping a LOT !

 

[walrus]

Batteries are supposed to last 15-20 years. (We'll see ) Leaves are never a problem but I have a roof rake to remove sticky snow. The winter position of the panels is very steep though so it usually clears itself. Depending on the load and the charge of the batteries I can stay up to a couple of days without sun, but a one hour charge with the backup generator will fully charge the batteries. Since the diesel only runs at idle during charging it is very economical.
I haven't needed A/C since the house is very well insulated (and of course, I live in a moderate climate.) I do have a window A/C unit but I have only used it a couple of nights since I moved in.
Until the recent loading problems, the electric fridge had never been a problem. I also use most other normal electrical devices such as microwave, coffee maker and toaster as well as shop tools.

Must be a well designed system as its not a huge system. Very nice

 

[ForceFed70]

Batteries are supposed to last 15-20 years. (We'll see ) Leaves are never a problem but I have a roof rake to remove sticky snow. The winter position of the panels is very steep though so it usually clears itself. Depending on the load and the charge of the batteries I can stay up to a couple of days without sun, but a one hour charge with the backup generator will fully charge the batteries. Since the diesel only runs at idle during charging it is very economical.
I haven't needed A/C since the house is very well insulated (and of course, I live in a moderate climate.) I do have a window A/C unit but I have only used it a couple of nights since I moved in.
Until the recent loading problems, the electric fridge had never been a problem. I also use most other normal electrical devices such as microwave, coffee maker and toaster as well as shop tools.

Cool, sounds like it's similar to what I put in the family cabin.

What batteries are you using that are advertising 15-20years? I bought nice expensive "6v golf cart batteries" - it's year 7 and they're pretty much toast.

 

[MScott]

Check the VOLTAGE at the refrigerator when it is starting up. I'll bet it is dropping a LOT !

How does one check the voltage at the refridgerator?

 

[MScott]

Cool, sounds like it's similar to what I put in the family cabin.

What batteries are you using that are advertising 15-20years? I bought nice expensive "6v golf cart batteries" - it's year 7 and they're pretty much toast.

I mentioned the batteries above. Evidently they are designed as backups for mainframe computer systems. It's important to always keep them charged and not to let the temperature get too low for maximum life. Also, a 12 hour deep charge with the generator every couple of months is recommended to extend the battery life.

 

[theoldwizard1]

How does one check the voltage at the refridgerator?

If the refrigerator is plugged into a duplex outlet, just use your DMM to probe the open socket.

You want to view the meter while the refrigerator is trying to start, so leave the door open for a few minutes.

 

[Showkey]

I am not convinced we have heard the end of the story on the high amp draw frig ???

 

[justsam]

Cool, sounds like it's similar to what I put in the family cabin.

What batteries are you using that are advertising 15-20years? I bought nice expensive "6v golf cart batteries" - it's year 7 and they're pretty much toast.

The C/D Lithium batteries are a completely different technology from lead acid golf cart batteries, and life span is very different. Modern electric cars are all lithium ion for their longevity as well as energy density.

 

[MScott]

If the refrigerator is plugged into a duplex outlet, just use your DMM to probe the open socket.

You want to view the meter while the refrigerator is trying to start, so leave the door open for a few minutes.

Thank you.

 

[MScott]

I am not convinced we have heard the end of the story on the high amp draw frig ???

Time will tell.

 

[theoldwizard1]

What batteries are you using that are advertising 15-20years? I bought nice expensive "6v golf cart batteries" - it's year 7 and they're pretty much toast.

Even top of the line deep discharge batteries designed specifically for solar system (Rolls, Trojan) would have a hard time hitting 15 years.

7 years on golf carts batteries is pretty darn good considering how much lower their cost is compared to "solar" batteries.