Last Wednesday (10/26/16) I decided it was time to replace the brake pads on the PT Cruiser (45.000 miles). Two years ago the mechanic at a tire store told me they were down to the metal. The wear indicators weren't making noise so I decided to postpone the job. I did order new rotors and pads online so I would be ready when the brakes started making noise.
Because the car is equipped with a factory turbo, I ordered "Turbo" rotors. I did a quick comparison when the new rotors arrived and they are thicker than the ones I'm replacing -- a lot thicker. Turns out the rotors are for calipers marked TURBO. Well, as long as I'm ordering calipers (with larger mounting brackets) I may as well order braided lines as well.
About the same time I bought the new calipers, I broke one of the wheel studs. I decided to order 10 new studs just to be safe. I carefully put them away in a safe place -- a place that escapes me now. I checked all the boxes, cabinets, tables and parts drawers I could find and no luck. I'm sure they'll turn up ten minutes after I finish the brakes but I broke down and ordered one stud from the local auto supply store.
I'm ready to go! I have my new super low profile 100-pound 2-ton floor jack and a pair of jackstands. Note the black hole in the wheel -- missing lug nut.
After removing the lug nuts and wheel, I removed the flexible line and caliper bracket. After removing a clip from one of the studs, a few hammer taps had the rotor off and the broken stud ready to come out.
Even though I've lived in Florida for more than 40 years, the 32 I spent in New York still haunt me. I expect everything to rust. I've owned this car for 12 years so I expected to need a 20 ton press and an oxy-acetylene cutting torch to remove the stud. I decided to try my air hammer first. And it may not be obvious but the shiny new caliper has a much wider opening than the dirty old one.
I had a moment of clarity and got my modest-size ball peen hammer, gave the stud three taps and it came out! That's when I notice there isn't enough clearance to get the old one out, let alone the new one in. I start unbolting the front axle and brought out the gear puller when I had another moment of clarity. I have the damn shop manual. A manual -- isn't that what I used to write for a living?
I had to access the shop manual on the computer -- it's not a printed book. Turns out the engineers actually made allowance for the easy removal of the studs. There's a notch on one side of the bearing retainer...
I'm a roll -- for about 5 minutes. I put the stud from the auto supply store in the hole and it slips in with no effort at all. I can spin it in the hole. I went back in the garage, got out the (digital) calipers and sure enough the knurled part of the stud is much smaller than the broken one I pulled out.
The parts store had asked me if my car was a Turbo when I ordered the stud so I asked if they had a different one listed -- yes, but it's the same part number. I'm pretty sure I have ten of those smaller studs hidden in my garage (or shop, or attic). I have the Dorman part number and check with other online parts suppliers -- looks like I have to go to Chrysler.
Well, all I can do is clean up the brake dust and dirt in the wheel well. It's too late to go to the Chrysler dealer so I put my tools away and put the cover back on the car so it isn't such an eyesore.
As I'm putting all my air tools back in the drawer, it occurs to me one or two of them could be stored elsewhere. I have 1/4" and 3/8" air ratchets that I would use if they weren't at the bottom of the drawer with the air hammer, drills, saws and file.
I finished my evening mounting a 2" PVC pipe at the top of my impact wrench stack. Easy to reach so I'll actually use the 3/8" air ratchet. I'll have to move the box cutter blade dispenser to fit another pipe for the 1/4" ratchet...