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brake caliper Piston push tool

G1GRANDEUR

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Aug 22, 2009
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There are many design out there, I guess this is NEW from snap-on? (blue-point)

http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item...&group_ID=1682&store=snapon-store&dir=catalog

I was thinking about buying

brake%20pad%20spreader%20tool.jpg


What do you guys think?
 
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ImportTuner

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That tool is made by Lisle; I have the one made for dual piston calipers and it works GREAT, and it even works on the single piston calipers .. highly recommended!
 

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MotoDave

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I've never had a problem with a c-clamp and a block of wood :)

But I also won't say no to an excuse to buy a new tool!
 

APEowner

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As much as I like tools I've never felt a need for one of those. I use a big pair of water pump pliers and one of the old pads.
 

A_Pmech

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I guess open the bleeder.....

C-clamp and piece of scrap or the old pads. If things really go south, a C-clamp for each piston NEVER fails.

If you want to get really fancy, line the back side of the C-clamp with a bit of Aluminum to keep from marring the caliper (in the case of motorcycle and airplane calipers).

I think it's hilarious that Snap-On et. al. want +-$110 for a tool that replaces a $2 C-clamp while making the operation 3X more complicated.

:lol_hitti
 
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pattenp

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show it please ...

I knew when I posted that I made one; someone would want to see it. So here it is. The part break down from left to right...(see second picture) 1- Caulk gun grip, 2 - caulk gun piece that I tapped with 1/8 pipe tap, 3 – short piece of 1/8 pipe, 4 – steel plate I cut and tapped wit 1/8 pipe tap, 5 – small ¼ washer to backup end cup, 6 – part of caulk gun end cup, 7 – caulk gun push rod end nut. Parts 3, 4 & 5 are the only parts not original to the caulk gun.
 

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Mr.Nutcase

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i knew when i posted that i made one; someone would want to see it. So here it is. The part break down from left to right...(see second picture) 1- caulk gun grip, 2 - caulk gun piece that i tapped with 1/8 pipe tap, 3 – short piece of 1/8 pipe, 4 – steel plate i cut and tapped wit 1/8 pipe tap, 5 – small ¼ washer to backup end cup, 6 – part of caulk gun end cup, 7 – caulk gun push rod end nut. Parts 3, 4 & 5 are the only parts not original to the caulk gun.

thank you..........................
 

NUTTSGT

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Bought a C-clamp today to stick in the track box. I had to go work on my daughter's Explorer about 1 1/2 hour away. It has 2 pistons and usually I'll use a piece of flat steel. Since I forgot it, I used a 13mm wrench.
 

speed bump

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Butte Montana
I thought about it for awhile but crusty suggested using a vice grip C-clamp, so next time I need to do a brake job thats what I plan on using.
 

ImportTuner

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I knew when I posted that I made one; someone would want to see it. So here it is. The part break down from left to right...(see second picture) 1- Caulk gun grip, 2 - caulk gun piece that I tapped with 1/8 pipe tap, 3 – short piece of 1/8 pipe, 4 – steel plate I cut and tapped wit 1/8 pipe tap, 5 – small ¼ washer to backup end cup, 6 – part of caulk gun end cup, 7 – caulk gun push rod end nut. Parts 3, 4 & 5 are the only parts not original to the caulk gun.

You could have bought the Lisle unit from tooltopia for $28 .. :confused:
 

ihredo4

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100 miles W of Daileyville in Idiotnois
I just use a prybar before I even take the caliper off the car. Slip the prybar tip between the pad and the rotor and press the pad back. If it is so stiff that this doesn't work I replace the caliper with a new one. It hasn't failed me yet doing it this way.
 
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bgott

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Houston, TX.
I just use a prybar before I even take the caliper off the car. Slip the prybar tip between the pad and the rotor and press the pad back. If it is so stiff that this doesn't work I replace the caliper with a new one. It hasn't failed me yet foing it this way.

You beat me to it! That way also makes it easier to check your slides and bushings before you pull it down.
 

pattenp

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You could have bought the Lisle unit from tooltopia for $28 .. :confused:

Well yeah .... :headscrat ...but this cost me less than $15, plus I had the fun of making it. Sometimes it's not just the cost savings but the challenge of making something. I think alot of you guys can relate to that.

Edit: Oh and it's $37 with shipping from Tooltopia.
 
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eborcim

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Okay, since this can be done in most cases with a C-clamp, is there a time when you HAVE to use a tool like this?
 

pattenp

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Okay, since this can be done in most cases with a C-clamp, is there a time when you HAVE to use a tool like this?

I don’t see it as a “Have To” situation but I find it easier and quicker to use this tool. I like the one hand operation of placing the tool in position and squeezing the handle to depress the cylinder.
 

APEowner

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I had one that came with a lot purchase of used tools and I never used it. Like I said before I just use a big pair of waterpump (channel lock) pliers and one of the oldpads.
 

chadster1

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Terrell, Texas
I also noticed that chadsters isnt the blue point one, looks an awful lot like a lisle card on there :beer:

You are correct. I beleive in providing my customers some value for their dollars. If Snap-on sells a tool that is simply rebranded, I will have the version that I can sell at the best price on my truck. I don't want one of my customers to discover that a tool I sold him labeled Blue-Point somewhere else with a Lisle or KD or some other manufactuers name on it.
 

Dust

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Santa Ana, CA
I use a huge pair of channelocks and the old brake pad.

I very rarely come across a piston that I need to bust out the compressor for.
 

ImportTuner

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Well yeah .... :headscrat ...but this cost me less than $15, plus I had the fun of making it. Sometimes it's not just the cost savings but the challenge of making something. I think alot of you guys can relate to that.

Edit: Oh and it's $37 with shipping from Tooltopia.

I understand the making it yourself as fun .. how in the world did you get it up to $37 from tooltopia .. I just checked again and it's $28.89

http://www.tooltopia.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=11321
 
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