Craftsman Model # 113-22401 Table Saw

[Rileysan]

Picked this up at Restore a couple weeks ago for $25. The switch on the 3/4 hp motor is broken, but it seemed worth what I paid even if the motor proves to be no good.

Other than the fence and a guard, is this complete?

Also, I know this is an 8" model, but it looks like there's room for a 10" blade. Is this model capable of running 10" blades?

Brian

 

[nine4gmc]

The miter gauge is worth $25, you did well! These old saws have a few accessories, table extensions, fence and stand were common I believe. Looks like dado and disc sander was an option too. I do not think a 10" will work on there but if it does, let me know, I have an 8" as well.

Here is the manual, check it out: http://vintagemachinery.org/pubs/detail.aspx?id=2307

 

[jywilli69]

Very nice saw.

 

[Rileysan]

The miter gauge is worth $25, you did well! These old saws have a few accessories, table extensions, fence and stand were common I believe. Looks like dado and disc sander was an option too. I do not think a 10" will work on there but if it does, let me know, I have an 8" as well.

Here is the manual, check it out: http://vintagemachinery.org/pubs/detail.aspx?id=2307

I should have noted it came with the disc sander accessory. At first, I thought it was someone's home-made devise, but it definitely was manufactured.

Brian

 

[CKS1955]

I have read that these will fit a 10" blade as some have stated over at vintagemachinery.org when posting pictures of their saws. If you do put a 10" blade just double check that it clears the throat at full height. Most of the parts are interchangeable between the 8" and 10" saws. I just looked at the manual and did a quick review all the parts appear to be the same with regards to parts that would be used directly by the blade with the exception of the cast iron top the 10" is 6154 and the 8" is 6155.

Jay

 

[exmaxima1]

My father bought the same saw & motor in the 50's, the saw one year and the motor came the next year (you bought them separately back then). I got it when I went off to college, and used it to help finance school building speakers. My saw had a pair of cast iron extension wings and the POS fence that came with it. I don't think a 10" blade will fit--there was an interference somewhere. Maybe a 9" will if you can still find one. But with only 3/4hp, the 8" blade is a better choice anyway.
The tops are different in size. I recall the depth at around 24" for the 8-inch saw, and around 27" for the 10-inch version. Those saws are really solid, and can be precise with a modern fence. The worst issue is the tilting mechanism: I hated cranking that thing, and ultimately installed a gearhead motor to turn it for me (highly recommended). I felt bad selling the saw when I finally bought my Unisaw......but not too bad

 

[zkling]

I typically run a 7 1/4" blade on mine right at 2" depth of cut at 90. It's a nice light to moderate user saw. Not for heavy cutting, lots of adjustments or panel ripping, but a nice smaller saw. Table should be 22"x20, had optional 10" wide webbed extensions.

 

[Zeke]

I use the 10" version with the 27" table everyday. I have 1 extension on one side and 2 on the other with the optional fence guide extension. The fence is tricky to use but if you make the adjustment by bringing the fence towards the blade (never away) with the geared knob, it will line up the way you want for a great cut.

The miter gauge needs constant attention so a sled is definitely something to consider. I made 2, a huge one that covers the entire table and a small one for sticks. I do tenons with the small one, otherwise I'd just use the miter saw.