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Trailer build tilt deck car hauler

duhicky

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Mar 4, 2014
Messages
56
Location
south west Montana
Thought I'd do a build thread for fun. Nothing fancy, just a tilt car hauler. I started the main deck over a year ago when I needs a platform/stage for my wedding. I wanted a wood deck, removable fenders, led lights, elec. hydralic double acting pump. I'm not sure yet how many steak pockets I will put on. I am building loosely off a set of plans I purchased. The biggest difference is adjusting for the wood deck vs having a diamond plate steel top. Also I'm using some different size steel sense I had a bit of it.
Main beams are C4x6.25, cross members are C3x4.1 and 3x3x3/16 angle. Deck is 16' on the flat and the beaver tail is 42" with a 4 1/2" drop. Tongue will be C4x6.25 with 2 1/2" sch. 40 pipe for the hinge cross member. The plans rate there design for 10400lbs but I'm using to 3500 electric break axles so I'll be rated at 7k for now. Figuring it will be just over 2k lbs when finished. Anyway here's where I'm at today.
 

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duhicky

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Mar 4, 2014
Messages
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Location
south west Montana
Re: Trailer build

Working on the pipe hinge

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royce

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Jun 22, 2014
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Location
fairbanks ak
Re: Trailer build

Duhicky,
That is a good looking design and it is always nice to see good stick welds.
The hoist frame is slick as well.
I was raised up in Kalispell, where are you out of?
Great work, thanks for sharing.
Royce
 
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duhicky

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Joined
Mar 4, 2014
Messages
56
Location
south west Montana
Re: Trailer build

Royce,
Thank you, it's been fun so far and I'm really going to be happy not borrowing trailers anymore![emoji38]
The hoist frame isn't quite done but it lets pull my weldmark in and out of the truck. Waiting on an engineer buddy to give me a WLL and see if he thinks I need any changes.
Always nice to hear from another Montanan. I'm not far for Kalispell. I live in Anaconda.
 

gearhead1

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Oct 14, 2013
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1,935
Location
NC
Re: Trailer build

Nice, please keep us posted. I'm especially interested in the tilt hardware.
 

Farmall450

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Dec 23, 2011
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13,367
Location
Marengo, Illinois
Re: Trailer build

Those welds look great. Is that 7024? I love how its slag pops off in one piece as it cools like that. :beer:

I'm truly amazed if that's 6010 or 7018!
 

tarmy

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May 28, 2014
Messages
4,678
Location
Nor Cal
Re: Trailer build

I like your gantry set up...if I am seeing it correctly...looks like you made it in three pieces...with hitch pins to break it down. Is that correct?

Would like to know if that is easy to assemble/disassemble and move?

Photos maybe please!?

Oh yeah...like the trailer thingy too....
 
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duhicky

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Location
south west Montana
Trailer build

Thank you guys for your kind words.

@farmall450 It is actually 7018. Lincoln Excalibur 3/32 to be exact. The slag peels easy when your flushed out like I was there. There's no edge for it to stick too plus I don't carry a lot of metal so I also don't build as much slag over the top.

@tarmstrong it is designed to come down easily and does but is a little heavy for one guy but easily doable. It's actually 5 pieces when apart for moving/storing. The plates are designed with a cam action so I can attach the inside pin and walk the truss over to pin the rear hole. then attach inside pin on other leg and walk it up in to position and pin second hole. It has a second set of holes for 8' so I can have it in the garage without moving everything away from the walls. I have a sketch I'll post. Sorry my penmanship is bad so ask if you can't make out a number.
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tarmy

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Re: Trailer build

Thank you guys for your kind words.

@farmall450 It is actually 7018. Lincoln Excalibur 3/32 to be exact. The slag peels easy when your flushed out like I was there. There's no edge for it to stick too plus I don't carry a lot of metal so I also don't build as much slag over the top.

@tarmstrong it is designed to come down easily and does but is a little heavy for one guy but easily doable. It's actually 5 pieces when apart for moving/storing. The plates are designed with a cam action so I can attach the inside pin and walk the truss over to pin the rear hole. then attach inside pin on other leg and walk it up in to position and pin second hole. It has a second set of holes for 8' so I can have it in the garage without moving everything away from the walls. I have a sketch I'll post. Sorry my penmanship is bad so ask if you can't make out a number.
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Thank you for answering my questions and posting photos and your art!
 

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duhicky

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south west Montana
Re: Trailer build

Got a bit more done over the weekend. Not goin so fast with a newborn in the house. Got the tongue made up. 1c582765acbc59aa1dbb146b49a16fa6.jpgc7a9d0501704874f8636d26bd729b03f.jpga5e55d76e2ce4d3ba58ad7857c1e5024.jpg
Almost laid out my cuts for 25degrees [emoji21]glade I caught myself before I had a huge gap. The channel bent easy and my miter cuts turned out pretty decent.
I also worked on the hinge assembly. If I did this again I would use tubing and not pipe as spec'd in the prints I have. It's just way to sloppy. With the 3" sch 40 over 2.5" sch 40 theres around a 16th or more gap between the 3" I.D. And 2.5" O.D. It will work fun just not as good of fit as I would like.
Got the hitch on and all the reinforcing steel in the tongue for the hydraulic. Also fit and tacked the hinges to the main deck. 8936487dad04e0cb66422ce5dbb14605.jpg8dd8c2430360ecca46365ba138bafb24.jpg64cff8dcf9eeea9399940c1ac21979ac.jpg3e6d093ffffe7750e932fa5a6569f490.jpgfb768522d427519580773b01e0f8fc33.jpg
 

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duhicky

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Re: Trailer build

A few more picse2c7e71ef0b5ee466e69690fa986760a.jpgb7f0cb1b8fc4e610ae97e14c3abfad91.jpg5e4acc7eb9b0c969e6c8eb2a0d70c7d5.jpg42b44a3373f22073b0c7f87c3ad0529f.jpg84e47b9ab0fd085441ed42eb3df20bd0.jpg98f94f9f95b2537e054c12867f6358b2.jpg
 

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duhicky

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Re: Trailer build

Just wanted to throw out my opinion on 6" cutting wheels too. I use tons of these at work and home. It's nothing to use up 15 or more in a day cutting out boiler tube on water walls. Anyway, as good as metabo grinders are their wheels walk all over with even a slight pressure. The slightly thinner design doesn't save much material either. I like the nortons myself. Just my .02 75f6c21df9d047ad5ba724adfe77919f.jpg
 

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bgarrett

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Re: Trailer build

Just wanted to throw out my opinion on 6" cutting wheels too. I use tons of these at work and home. It's nothing to use up 15 or more in a day cutting out boiler tube on water walls. Anyway, as good as metabo grinders are their wheels walk all over with even a slight pressure. The slightly thinner design doesn't save much material either. I like the nortons myself. Just my .02 75f6c21df9d047ad5ba724adfe77919f.jpg

Nortons are the same thickness (.045) and cost a lot more. Why do you prefer them?
 

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duhicky

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Re: Trailer build

Metabos are actually .040. They don't take the pressure and keep straight. On the metabo you can watch it go out of round with very little pressure. Reminds me of watching a center finder on a mill kick out. Very easy to let a cut get out of square if your not very diligent watching it. Nortons stay very true and hold up better. Say your cutting 2x2 angle, with the Norton it is easy to let the wheel cut both sides and watch it stay right on your lines square. Metabos will tend to push sideways on one side or the other causing you to have to cut one leg at a time. The Sait brand is also good.


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Playwme

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Sep 13, 2012
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The Lucky Country Down Under
Re: Trailer build

Our brands of cutting disk are different but I've had the same experiences. Tried cheaper ones but you go through them quicker and they're not as smooth. I always go back to the Flexovit brand ones.

Of course, I'm using a lot less of them after buying a cold cut saw.
 
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duhicky

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south west Montana
Trailer build

Sorry it's been so long. Between holidays, new baby, and montana winter I haven't got much done the last two months. Should be done with this project but… I'm not. Any way, here's where I'm at.
Got it moved into the garage and the stake pockets and bump rail on. Added wings behind rear fender that will also house lights and be part of the structure for the removable fenders. Bought my fenders a little to narrow so widened them an inch. Started working on the set up for the front of the fender for support and how it attaches. Also got the structure in place up front for the hydraulic cylinder.

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duhicky

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south west Montana
Made a lil progress again. Good thing I'm not tryin to make money at this pace. [emoji21]
Finished up removable fenders and added deckplate on the tail and sides59b105a8af2945f9cabde0dff97b8b6a.jpg
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I struggled finding a latch I liked or even a design I liked. I settled on this design that allows the latch to engage on its own when trailer is lowered. Kept the latch in close with the hydraulic ram to keep things more solid. The cylinder is not on in this pic but goes just in front of the 3x3 tubing 69066eaf5a620b902e1ac7042503eac6.jpg
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I'm not loving my handle but it will work for now till I decide what I really want
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Now the problem. It's January in Montana and I don't yet have an insulated shop. It was 7 degrees yesterday and -6 last night. This cold snap is starting to lift but I'm barely able to keep the shop at 50 so my first coat of primer is taking a while to dry. Hopefully will get a warm week. I think I need to switch to naptha"?" Instead of paint thinner. I know little about paint and I have no delusions about this being anything but decent looking and rust prohibitive.
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Anyway, let me know if any of you experienced guys have tips. I'm using cheap Eastwood gun, valspar oil based red oxide primer. Will use there armor rust black for top coat.
Thanks in advance for advice.
 

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duhicky

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south west Montana
Re: Trailer build title deck car hauler

Thank you guys! I appreciate the kind words.
I missed this photo yesterday. This is the latch I designed disassembled. I cut the latch free hand then tacked them together to shape so they are the same. Had to drill then file the keyway to shape. Be nice to have a broach set.
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Re: Trailer build title deck car hauler

Love the trailer, any idea what it'll weigh? what lbs axles? again super nice build.
 
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duhicky

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south west Montana
Re: Trailer build title deck car hauler

Allbottlenothrottle, thanks man! It's goin to be heavy! It should come in around 2500lbs. I have to admit I screwed up right out the gate and bought two 3500# axles. Wishing I would have went 5200. I'm goin to be at the max often. Easy upgrade later if I decide to spend the money and the design I based it in is a 10400gvw trailer.


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Thats not horrible. I have been looking to build one my self that has all the options I want. i HAVE A 18' Lamar and a 18' Kaufman. I love the Lamar the Kaufman can be a bit tough loading lowered cars. The Kaufman comes in at 2200 dry and Im not sure about the Lamar its just a Hair lighter. I can't wait to see more progress pictures from your built.
 
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duhicky

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I purchased and modified a set from trailerplans.com. I believe they were $35. They are stamped by a licensed P.E. but just like every print I see I found discrepancies on measurements. Very common to have errors so if you buy a set study them as you would any print. I go through my prints with highlighters and a pencil making notes and matching things up. Keeps rework down.


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digdug18

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Feb 14, 2010
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Danville, PA
What are your plans to coat the steel when your finished?

I ask, because I'd recommend PPG's AUE line of industrial coatings. It's not cheap, but it passes the 1000 hour salt spray test easily. I've been painting industrial tables, for use in an engine rebuilding lab lately, but have used it on a flat bed truck, and it's on a 747, that is being used as a training tool, parked outside for the past 8 years. Just saying.

Andrew

Here's the product sheet if you are interested. http://buyat.ppg.com/RefinishProductCatalog/ServeFile.ashx?FileId=55ed6364-1e96-4b69-adfb-d7215f3f2852
 
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duhicky

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Didug18 thank you for the recommendation and info. I have already bought the valspar armor rust paint that is supposed to be their matching product to the redoxide primer I used. I'm guessing the urethane enamel is a lot better than the alkyd"?" I'm using. What's a gallon of the PPG go for?


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duhicky

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It's not done yet. Still painting and have electrical to instal along with finish building the tongue box that will hold pump, battery, etc. Also needs to be decked. I'll post numbers soon as I get them.


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digdug18

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 14, 2010
Messages
311
Location
Danville, PA
Didug18 thank you for the recommendation and info. I have already bought the valspar armor rust paint that is supposed to be their matching product to the redoxide primer I used. I'm guessing the urethane enamel is a lot better than the alkyd"?" I'm using. What's a gallon of the PPG go for?

The PPG is a 2k product, you have the base and the hardener, mixed at a 4:1, which when it dries, it creates a hard candy shell. Last time I looked at the invoice, I believe the grey I'm using is $400 for the 2 components.

I figure it's worth it if you're putting all that time and money into something. Though the PPG might be overkill, but if it keeps gas well heads from rusting over 20 year period, it might be good enough for a car hauler.
 

mike93lx

ALLIANCE MEMBER
Joined
Dec 9, 2013
Messages
37,516
Location
Richmond, VA
Re: Trailer build

I also worked on the hinge assembly. If I did this again I would use tubing and not pipe as spec'd in the prints I have. It's just way to sloppy. With the 3" sch 40 over 2.5" sch 40 theres around a 16th or more gap between the 3" I.D. And 2.5" O.D. It will work fun just not as good of fit as I would like.

won't that gap be helpful when the hinge point gets dirty/rusty? I would think that it would be more likely to bind if it was a tighter fit.
 

vavet

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 6, 2012
Messages
5,323
Location
Ashland, VA
What are your plans for using this? Buy mechanics' special cars, drag them home, fix them, and sell them? Friday night dirt track racing?
 
OP
D

duhicky

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 4, 2014
Messages
56
Location
south west Montana
@digdug18
that is spendy! Sounds like a great product. I work a lot of refineries so I know exactly the type of environment that you speak of.

@mike93lx
The actual gap is .190 overall. I definitely agree with your thought on it. However I feel like it would allow to much free play which usually aids in premature failure. I would rather have a it tighter and put zerks in it so I could keep it full of grease. The way it is now it's just goin to push it out when it goes back and up then the same when it comes down and forward. With the gap that big in goin to leave it dry or I will have it full of grease and dirt which is probably the worst situation.

@vavet
I'm not a racer. I'll be using this for everything. Probably more of a utility trailer than car hauler. I've borrowed trailers 13x in the last year for different reasons. I really hate having to have steel cut down to 10' lengths to haul in my truck. I have a shed to haul this summer and lumber for my shop that I'm lifting and expanding. Just at the point I always seem to need one.



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