Toolbox organisation for motorsport

[jipps]

I'm hoping to compete in sprints and hillclimbs from next season, and this gives me a toolbox issue.

My Snap On KRA 59F, at 91lbs empty, is too heavy to be portable.
My Snap On KRA 250B is too small to hold everything that I might need in the paddock.

Anticipating the need for a compromise between the two, I was lucky enough to get a good deal on a Snap On "rally" or "barn" type box. It hasn't arrived with me yet, but I believe it to be a KRA 21C.

Now I need some inspiration. So my question is - what do you carry in your motorsport toolbox?

 

[gdocktor3]

The tools you need to fix your bike.... In other words, don't waste space with deep and shallow sae sockets if everything is shallow metric. Figure out what size sockets and wrenches you need. You don't need a complete set of metric wrenches or sockets if you only use 8, 10, 13, 19mm etc, etc.. I like 11-1 screwdrivers. I like leatherman multi tools. Small and compact with many different tools all in one. And of course pliers, adjustable wrench, needle nose, a few screwdrivers and electrical tape. Don't forget spark plug socket and extra plugs.

 

[T45]

What type of machine? in general everything is applications specific as noted above. you may even go so far as to change some hardware around to make thinks conform to your preferred tools, or to eliminate needing extra stuff. some brands are engineered better than others when it comes to needing mor or less tools for simple maintenance.

 

[jipps]

The tools you need [...] You don't need a complete set of metric wrenches or sockets if you only use 8, 10, 13, 19mm etc, etc.. I like 11-1 screwdrivers. I like leatherman multi tools. Small and compact with many different tools all in one. And of course pliers, adjustable wrench, needle nose, a few screwdrivers and electrical tape. Don't forget spark plug socket and extra plugs.

I like this. I'm lucky in that it'll only be metric so can avoid some bulk there. I also like hex bit screwdrivers and nut spinners to lose a few handles...

What type of machine? in general everything is applications specific as noted above. you may even go so far as to change some hardware around to make thinks conform to your preferred tools, or to eliminate needing extra stuff. some brands are engineered better than others when it comes to needing mor or less tools for simple maintenance.

Should have made clear, I'll be starting out in small production car class - Miata, Ford, Mini.

I really like the idea of swapping hardware things to conform to preferred tools - that hadn't occurred to me up to now.

 

[CJM8515]

I have done something similar with atv specific tools that my quad needs. Figure out what sizes you need and the exact tools you want and go from there. Dont bother taking the entire tool box with you sorta deal. With your basic sockets and wrenches throw in good pliers of several types, vise grips, screwdrivers, etc. I can repair about 90% of my quad on the trail with just about a small bike case of tools.

Also dont forget spare parts you might need and consumables like extra nuts/bolts/cotter pins, etc.

 

[McRae]

you may even go so far as to change some hardware around to make thinks conform to your preferred tools, or to eliminate needing extra stuff.

We do this a lot, not only to keep down on tools in the box, but most importantly to keep down on number of tools needed to do a job, saves times when $hit hits the fan.

For instance use button head allen screws for m6 and cap head for m5, that way you only need a 4mm allen key for both sizes.

 

[jipps]

@CJM8515 @McRae - many thanks for the responses. This is motivating me to eliminate any odd size, low volume hardware.

 

[PWC Repair]

As others have stated, weed out tools that aren't necessary. I carry around a 17" toolbox with a lift out tray. I can literally fully disassemble almost any make/model jet ski with what's in that little box.

 

[fos373]

My buddy has a surprisingly small tool box for his motorcycle road race kit. When he was working on it (and he did a full rebuild) - he started with an empty tool box and he would place the tool he used in that box. Any tool that was used either came or went in there. He has a tote or two for spare parts, but that tool box is relatively small.

I have a tool cart in my trailer with the needed tools and spares - in total probably takes the same amount of space.

 

[kgorman]

For the race trailer we had a rolling tool cart. Like this:

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-33-in-4-Drawer-Mechanics-Tool-Cart-Black-HOUC3304B10/205905453

We raced BMW Spec e30 and NASA GTS

- metric sockets
- metric wrenches
- brake bleed tools
- brake pad change tools
- hex keys metric
- screwdriver set
- multimeter
- jack stands
- alignment gear
- battery impact
- 3 17mm impact sockets
- pliers
- dikes
- wire strippers
- 3 or 4 BMW specific tools
- tape
- torque wrench
- gloves
- dead blow hammer
- awl

Probably some stuff I am forgetting

 

[jipps]

Many thanks for the further thoughts.

@fos373 - I like the idea of starting with nothing and only adding the essentials. I'm hoping to do that with the new box... only add into it things that are definitely required.

@kgorman - that's an extremely helpful list and looks *very* relevant to me. Thank you for sharing it!

 

[M6erfan]

Agree with only the essentials! I have a similar box I put together for vintage Japanese bikes

-1/4" 6, 8, 10, 12, 14mm mid length sockets + ratchet
-1/4" Spinner handle with female drive end
-3/8" 8, 10, 12, 14, 17mm mid length sockets + ratchet
-16mm spark plug socket
-5.5mm ignition wrench
-6x8, 10x12, 14x17mm DBE wrenches
-200mm adj wrench
-P2 & P3 JIS screwdrivers
-utility knife
-10" brass drift
-16oz brass/delrin hammer
-Flywheel puller
-master link pliers
-6" needle nose
-Small vice grips
-6" Safety wire pliers
-Spoke wrench

Nothing I don't need, but I can pretty much tear down and put back together a bike with the above

 

[APEowner]

I use this as my primary tool box both in the shop and at the track. I just roll it up into the trailer before I load the car. I have duplicates of just about every thing but by using the same box wherever I am I can slowly move tools out that don't get used on the race car and move tools in that do.

 

[jipps]

I use this as my primary tool box both in the shop and at the track. I just roll it up into the trailer before I load the car. I have duplicates of just about every thing but by using the same box wherever I am I can slowly move tools out that don't get used on the race car and move tools in that do.

Sound idea - I wish I had the transport to do this!

EDIT: Also, really cool box

 

[jipps]

Agree with only the essentials! I have a similar box I put together for vintage Japonese bikes

-1/4" 6, 8, 10, 12, 14mm mid length sockets + ratchet
-3/8" 8, 10, 12, 14, 17mm mid length sockets + ratchet
-5.5mm ignition wrench
-6x8, 10x12, 14x17mm DBE wrenches
-200mm adj wrench
-P2 & P3 JIS screwdrivers
-10" brass drift
-16oz brass/delrin hammer
-Flywheel puller
-master link pliers
-6" needle nose
-Small vice grips
-6" Safety wire pliers
-Spoke wrench

Nothing I don't need, but I can pretty much tear down and put back together a bike with the above

That's very interesting. Why do you take the 1/4" set when the sizes are covered off in your 3/8s? Is it purely about leverage, or do you tend to have two people working at once, or something else?

(I'm thinking I might try to rely on 3/8s, but bring a cased up 1/4" set to the first few meets and see whether I need it...)

 

[M6erfan]

That's very interesting. Why do you take the 1/4" set when the sizes are covered off in your 3/8s? Is it purely about leverage, or do you tend to have two people working at once, or something else?

(I'm thinking I might try to rely on 3/8s, but bring a cased up 1/4" set to the first few meets and see whether I need it...)

Probably can get by with only 3/8" but my preference is to work with 1/4" whenever possible. The 3/8" comes in handy for leverage and the larger sizes (12, 14, 17mm). Plus, all the sockets fit on one 12" rail, the 1/4" drive stuff doesn't really take up much room at all. the redundancy is by design, for when that one socket goes missing or whatever...

It's what works for me...

Edit-I added SP socket and 1/4" spinner to my list above. Knew I was forgetting some things...

 

[CJM8515]

1/4 might be hard to use on something larger than a bike/atv. If it were a car Id go with 3/8.

 

[M6erfan]

1/4 might be hard to use on something larger than a bike/atv. If it were a car Id go with 3/8.

True, but like has been mentioned the tools will be vehicle specific (mine are for motorcycles).

My post was to emphasize that I don't carry full sets of sockets/wrenches/ 12 piece screwdriver set, etc. etc... Only what you need and nothing else.

Changing hardware to common sizes wherever possible is excellent advice!

 

[L5wolvesf]

Should have made clear, I'll be starting out in small production car class - Miata, Ford, Mini.

I really like the idea of swapping hardware things to conform to preferred tools - that hadn't occurred to me up to now. [/QUOTE]

small production car class In SCCA or a similar program?

When I prep a car, especially an off road car, I try to make as many fasteners the same wrench size so we don't have to carry a "box full" of tools in car.

Safety wire pliers, and wire, if they haven't been mentioned yet.

 

[jipps]

small production car class In SCCA or a similar program?

Yep, very similar (though in the U.K.). There's a great consensus building here on what I should be doing, which is great!

 

[jipps]

@M6erfan. Thanks for the further info. I agree that redundancy can be good (space permitting) and that is an even more useful list now