Do the 2135TI/TIMAX or Nitrocats have enough power to do one of these? What impact were you running that didn't? In addition to turning the pressure up running high volume fittings makes a big difference on air tools.
There's actually two issues concerning the Honda crankshaft pulley bolt that needs to be addressed. I'll address the removal of the bolt first, and then an excellent way to tighten the bolt back up using torque sticks (aka torque limiting extensions).
The IR 2135Ti and TiMAX do have plenty of power to pull off these bolts. I would expect similar guns like Aircat's 1000-TH, 1000-TC, or the 1100-K or similar strength Chicago Pneumatic guns to be equally effective.
I personally like to buy very good quality IR 2135TiMAX's right now off of eBay for around $150--or $120 with some concentrated effort. If you're a tech, and you're going to use these guns daily, I wouldn't even consider a gun that isn't a quiet one; you're ears are sensitive tools, so, take care of them. All three manufacturers make quiet guns in these top-of-the-line 1/2" drives.
The keys to using these tools can be put into three simple categories--at least 3/8" hose or larger, higher pressure, and Milton type HVLP (High Volume Low Pressure) couplings and fittings.
First, I wouldn't even try this bolt without at least a 3/8" hose. You can use a larger hose than 3/8", but it isn't necessary, 1/2" is used with the larger CFM 3/4" impacts. I use Goodyear rubber hoses.
Secondly, if your gun doesn't work at 90 PSI, then crank up the output regulator on your compressor to 120 PSI or greater. It's common for shops to run their equipment well above 90 PSI. The low end "big air" two stage compressors fill their tanks at 175 PSI, and it's not uncommon to see these run at 120 to 150 PSI.
My IR 2135Ti and 2135TiMAX both failed to remove my '97 Honda Civic crank pulley off at 90 PSI, but when I used my 2135TiMAX at 120, it ripped off the bolt with almost no hammering.
Lastly, if you still fail to remove the fastener/bolt, and you're using 3/8" hose, and you've maxed out the pressure on your compressor, you have to remove the smallest constriction in your lines that causes the largest loss of power--the coupling is the largest thief of power in your system.
This is where Milton type HVLP couplings and fittings come into play. HF has High-Flo couplings and fittings, but these are inexpensive items already, and play an important role in your system; so, do yourself a favor and buy from somewhere else. Inexpensive couplings are not necessarily cheap couplings. Avoid HF, and you've gone a long way to minimizing your air leaks. I use Milton type "V" couplings and fittings.
One quick note: Try keeping your lines connected directly to the compressor if you can, and minimize your use of long hoses, fittings and curves in any piping.
I'd also like to discuss tightening your bolt. If you want to tighten your bolt to specifications, try torque limiting extensions on your impact wrench. These "torque sticks" or "torque stix" bend at their intended rating to absorb the force of an impact wrench. I have a set that I bought from HF for $60.
The last comment that I would make about this bolt is about the use of loctite or threadlocker. Some people have had the issue of their crankshaft pulley coming loose after some period of time. If you are concerned about this issue, consider using a medium strength "glue" for this application--for example, the blue gel, threadlocker, from Permatex. Whatever you do, DON'T use the red loctite or threadlocker for this application. If your car ever needs to have the crankshaft pulley removed, and you've used the red loctite or threadlocker, you may very well be looking at an EXPENSIVE repair bill. RED loctite or threadlocker is for high strength applications, and you may break your bolt trying to remove it.
Good luck.
it'll take that sucker right off!