Floor just poured, curing it correctly

[Hondaracer2oo4]

The concrete guy finally got the floor poured today. The finish guy did a good job, worked it for a long time. Had a good sheen to it when he was done. Now I am wondering about curing it correctly this time of year. The floor is insulated so the groin temp isn't helping to keep the slab warm. Also the garage doors and windows won't be on in the next month. Should I cover the whole floor with plastic? Anything else?

 

[uppster]

I suggest you do whatever the concrete man said to do, not what strangers on the internet say. It is just concrete.

 

[Hondaracer2oo4]

Ever heard two heads are better than one? I didn't say that I would do everything someone suggested. Just looking for opinions and thoughts. Thanks for the good tip though.

 

[navycryppie]

I did mine 26 days ago, but I am certainly no expert. Keeping the cement hydrating in the concrete is what builds strength, so most finishers will use a cure/seal spray compound to keep water in the slab while it cures. I chose not to use a chemical sealer, as they can cause issues down the road if you intend to epoxy/paint the floor. Instead, I kept the surface moist for the first 8 days, watering with a sprinkler several times a day. If your finisher didn't spray a sealer, I would ask his recommendation, and if that doesn't work keeping it wet for the first week will certainly help the curing process.

 

[ssdave]

Do what the concrete man tells you to do, as long as it is something that involves actually curing the concrete, not letting it dry out. Believe it or not, many "concrete men" have no clue how to properly cure concrete. They can place and finish it, but don't have the knowledge of how to cure it.

Cover it with plastic sheeting would be a very good idea, although the surface color may come out a bit mottled from the contact with the plastic. Another good alternative is to spray it with a wax based curing compound, in the amount that the product label tells you to. If it's getting below freezing, you may need to cover it with concrete blankets to keep it from freezing. All of these things need to be done as soon as you can get on it after it is finished.

 

[Hondaracer2oo4]

So Deffintely cover it with plastic tommorow I take it. How wet should I get it? It looks like it won't get down below freezing for about a week around here. After that it looks like it will turn cold at night again.

 

[wssix99]

Also the garage doors and windows won't be on in the next month. Should I cover the whole floor with plastic? Anything else?

If you can cover the windows and door opening with plastic - that would be great. It's too cold to need to worry about water evaporating too fast, but covering the openings will help keep heat in and also keep wind from blowing across the floor.

You have your saw cuts taken care of, right?

 

[Shootinok]

I'm going to agree with the previous post from ssdave.
Covering with plastic will help keep its own heat in but may effect the color. If temps in your area will stay above 50 you should be fine, in freezing temps you should protect it. Try to keep the concrete above 50 degrees.
Usually after a day the concrete will have reached an initial set to resist damage from freezing.

 

[Cyberbear]

I'm in So. Calif. but I poured a large 2400 sq/ft slab during winter and the concrete supplier added a chemical to aid in setting up properly. I kept it moist a few days before spraying a concrete sealer from HD to retard moisture loss from wind and sun. That was 1995 and still no cracks, But, I also used a six bag mix, rebar at 12" o/c and didn't begin construction for a few months.

 

[matt_i]

My opinion is to keep it as wet as possible without saturating the framing...if out of danger of freezing temps then there isn't much downside to keeping it wet as long as you can. Even the surface water freezing won't damage it imho, my slab collected large amounts of ice and snow and thin frozen ponds as the building was erected over it last winter. No ill effects that I can tell. The biggest danger is that you can fall and break your teeth on the slick surface.

 

[RVDan]

I think you'll get a hundred different methods that all turned out fine.

I had mine underwater for a week, it's fine four years later lol

 

[Hondaracer2oo4]

Thanks everyone. I will give it some water tomorrow. It won't pond up, it's got a pitch towards the doors. I will cover the windows and doors with plastic. It doesn't look to get below freezing for about a week. Should that be long enough to be safe from damage? I'll plan on wetting it down once a day. Building is already built around it so that's protecting it from any direct sun beating on it drying it out.

 

[bikesandcars]

Concrete has a lot of thermal inertia. The curing process will generate heat and the insulation will keep it. Cold at night isn't a huge issue as long as days are 50 plus.

Cold weather concrete is for pouring below freezing. It has chloride additives that I hear are hard on rebar. My mix had a non chloride additive and fiber. My concrete guy said no issues at all as I'll be at 28 days before the slab itself is at freezing. Thats being conservative I think.

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[Kaizen]

Honda I just got mine poured last Thursday just south of you. 6 inches of 4k psi slab. My concrete guy said water is not needed this time of year as its 40-50s and freezing at night. He said in the summer he would suggest that. Just passing on what I was told.

 

[brownbagg]

My concrete guy said water is not needed this time of year as its 40-50s and freezing at night. .

your concrete guy is wrong, it not the cooling effect of the water but the moisture to keep it from drying out, if moisture a problem then use a chemical curing agent to create a membrane on the surface. These should be apply as soon as you can walk on it. The plastic should of been as soon as the finisher came off the slab. I alwat reccomend a soaker hose under the plastic than can be turn on, every so often. temp has to be under 32 degrees for 48 hours for it to damage freezing.

 

[Hondaracer2oo4]

Thanks @kaizen. I went with 4 inches @ 4K psi. I checked the slab temp with my IR thermometer, it was 43 degrees. The guy is cutting the joints Thursday. We are going to break it up into 9x9 sections. What other suggestions did he give? Cover with plastic? Plastic up the windows and doors?

 

[wssix99]

It doesn't look to get below freezing for about a week. Should that be long enough to be safe from damage?

Yes. As the concrete cures, it will create a little internal heat to keep things nice. It will also get some warmth from the ground, which is not frozen yet. Covering the windows and doors will help a ton with regard to keeping this little bit of heat working for you.

I'll plan on wetting it down once a day. Building is already built around it so that's protecting it from any direct sun beating on it drying it out.

Having the slab protected from the sun and wind will keep most of the water evaporating. What you don't want is free water in the slab near the surface where it can freeze. If you are week out from your first frost, then there's probably no harm in wetting it today - but I would not put any extra water on it if you are within a week of having some frost.

The people who have really big problems with fast water evaporation are folks in the south in the summer. You are far removed from this and don't have anything to worry about!

 

[bikesandcars]

Forgot to add... My guys used a curing agent / sealer right after burnishing

The surface came out nice.

 

[Hondaracer2oo4]

Ok so no water this time of year. Also close Windows and doors with plastic covering to help keep heat. No plastic on top of the concrete because the water coming to the surface can freeze coming out of the pour.

 

[Kaizen]

Thanks @kaizen. I went with 4 inches @ 4K psi. I checked the slab temp with my IR thermometer, it was 43 degrees. The guy is cutting the joints Thursday. We are going to break it up into 9x9 sections. What other suggestions did he give? Cover with plastic? Plastic up the windows and doors?

nope just said leave it alone. I don't have the building built yet. winter project hopefully we have another mild winter.
I cut my own joints 10x12 1.5 inches deep. came out pretty good. had one section that has conduit under it that I made a cut along the conduit path as it will probably crack there. going to get caulking stuff today to seal the cuts before winter sets in. don't want water getting down there and freezing. that will surely cause it to crack. a little jealous you're in the homestretch!

 

[nh_yota]

Looking at the weather forecast you should be good until next week when it drops below freezing at night, but by then the concrete will have cured enough to not be affected by freezing temps.

 

[Kaizen]

your concrete guy is wrong, it not the cooling effect of the water but the moisture to keep it from drying out, if moisture a problem then use a chemical curing agent to create a membrane on the surface. These should be apply as soon as you can walk on it. The plastic should of been as soon as the finisher came off the slab. I alwat reccomend a soaker hose under the plastic than can be turn on, every so often. temp has to be under 32 degrees for 48 hours for it to damage freezing.

guess we'll see. I've seen posts here of issues with coatings after related to sealer and discoloration. as for plastic I've seen it after look like pressed pattern concrete. uh uh.

 

[Hondaracer2oo4]

Thanks! Ill post some pics. Foundation was ready to build on late June. Then my wife and I had our first kiddo august 23rd so it's been a struggle to make progress since then. I have radiant stapled down to the foam board and wire mesh floating in the slab, my last worry is that he will cut a piece if the pex if it popped up off the foam during te pour. He would have to cut through te mesh though in order to hit the pex. On a side note the ***** cement truck driver pulled up about 3 inches away from th building, pulled the maxi brake and never put the truck in nuetral before going into pto. He let off th brake pedal and the truck drove into te garage. The safety rail on top of the truck bent in and other than a scratches area on te siding I can't find anything. The finishers said they did hear wood crack but I can't find anything. He hit one of the garage door lvls. I pulled a string across the front I the building and it's still plumb. The plant manager said they would pay for whatver the damage is but like I said I can't find anything. Not sure what to do about that yet.

 

[Jlbc212]

I lightly sprayed my floor with water then covered it with 4mil plastic. The plastic will adhere to the moist floor and will keep the surface damp for as long as you decide to keep the plastic on the floor. The heat generated by the curing concrete should keep the water from freezing. Keep the plastic on for as long as you can. I try to do 30 days minimum. There might be some discoloration of the surface when you remove the plastic. The discoloration on mine was minimal and eventually disappeared.

 

[Hondaracer2oo4]

Here's a pic

 

[jpcjguy]

Here's a pic

Hey Hondaracer2004 - how about a build thread! I would like more details on your garage and pics!

Thanks!

 

[wssix99]

Here's a pic

Nice! If things get uncomfortable in there, (with the plastic up now) you can put a small space heater in there and keep things warm while you work over the winter.

 

[Hondaracer2oo4]

I'll do a build thread.

 

[Kaizen]

Thanks! Ill post some pics. Foundation was ready to build on late June. Then my wife and I had our first kiddo august 23rd so it's been a struggle to make progress since then. I have radiant stapled down to the foam board and wire mesh floating in the slab, my last worry is that he will cut a piece if the pex if it popped up off the foam during te pour. He would have to cut through te mesh though in order to hit the pex. On a side note the ***** cement truck driver pulled up about 3 inches away from th building, pulled the maxi brake and never put the truck in nuetral before going into pto. He let off th brake pedal and the truck drove into te garage. The safety rail on top of the truck bent in and other than a scratches area on te siding I can't find anything. The finishers said they did hear wood crack but I can't find anything. He hit one of the garage door lvls. I pulled a string across the front I the building and it's still plumb. The plant manager said they would pay for whatver the damage is but like I said I can't find anything. Not sure what to do about that yet.

eh he only will cut an inch normally . might want to pressurize the pex with air though if its not already so if he does hit it he can mark it to be dug up and repaired.
that garage looks nice. about the size of mine but I don't have a 2nd floor and probably only a 4/12 pitch so it won't have that barn look that yours does. congrats on your offspring.

 

[Hondaracer2oo4]

The pex is pressurized, it has been holding 60 psi for two weeks. The house was built in 1795 so I wanted to build the garage to look like it was a barn. If I really had the money I would have figured out a way to attach granite vaneer blocks around the foundation so it looked like it was on a granite block foundation like the house. The house has a 7/12 pitch which I would have liked to match but that was way to shallow. I also didn't go with look outs on the sides of the roof because the house doesn't have them. So I wet with 10/12 which gave me good headroom upstairs. Any thoughts on when it would be ok to get in and build the stairs to the second floor? I don't want to get in to soon on the floor.

 

[billspit]

Here's a pic

That is nice.

 

[Hondaracer2oo4]

We cut the control joints Wednesday night. I have the windows and doors covered up with plastic and it is quite warm in there, humid too as you can imagine. The concrete guy texted me today and told me to make sure to seal it before winter so the salt from the cars didn't damage it. He just said to go to a concrete supplier and buy a good quality sealer. Any suggestions? Also I am covering 1200 sqft, any idea how much for cost?

 

[Toomanytools?]

http://www.concretenetwork.com/products-sealer/comparison.html

Lots to choose from. Didn't the concrete guy have a recommendation? Years ago Diamond Clear was the choice of my concrete guy. http://www.euclidchemical.com/produ...s/solvent-based-curing-sealing/diamond-clear/

 

[Hondaracer2oo4]

He just told me two of the local supply houses to buy from. He said buy a quality one from one of them.

 

[matt_i]

I used a BASF curing sealer, IIRC it was around $200 for 1100sf. There might be other sealers that are more of a "finishing" sealer with better toughness than a curing sealer, if it is already water-cured and dried out.

 

[Hondaracer2oo4]

I called one of the local suppliers today. They had a product for $58 per gallon. It covered 150 sqft. That's $400 fr 1200 sqft that I have. I think I'll be looking for a product from online at those prices. Still wondering about manufacturers and products people have used.

 

[matt_i]

Here is specifically what I used, its made by BASF. In my research, buying online was tough, nobody really wants to ship a 5 gallon bucket because of damage and leakage potential, and the commerical construction people who are typically using them don't want to pay the (high) premium to buy it online either.

If you read the little text, this was formerly Sonneborn Kure and Seal, BASF somehow acquired the product line.

To buy this I found a construction supply thru the BASF website, paid over the phone with a credit card, and my Dad who is retired, volunteered to swing by and pick it up.

My free advice from using it is I wish I would have put it on a little thicker. Where I tried to "dry out the roller" here and there to make up coverage, would have been better served by rolling on more product, which is sort of the opposite of painting a wall. Also I wasn't totally sure if I had enough product to cover the entire area, I did, but its hard to plan for that as you go!



It looked beautiful in my opinion when completed and dried but the winter weather and accumulation of water/ice/snow degraded it somewhat before I enclosed the building. I think your pour is inside so it might keep a nice gloss a lot longer.

 

[Hondaracer2oo4]

Thanks Matt. How many sqft did you get out of the 5 gallons. How much on cost? Floor looks great, looks like a lowes or Home Depot floor? I think I am leaning towards a Siliconate product. I would like something I don't have to apply every couple of years. Looking for road salt protection and spill protection.

 

[bikesandcars]

The cure and seal my constructor used suggests reapplication if gloss is desired, so I bought extra and will re-seal in a few weeks

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