I was originally going to weld a bung to the bottom, but I decided instead that I can just pump it out. I think it will take more than a year or even two years to fill up to the holes on the front.
What's on your walls? Neat storage ideas!
- Thread starter scottybaccus
- Start date
I was originally going to weld a bung to the bottom, but I decided instead that I can just pump it out. I think it will take more than a year or even two years to fill up to the holes on the front.
You nailed it. When I did my closet remodel, I bought a Freud blade just for melamine. That, along with a zero-clearance saw insert and almost zero chipping. Worth the $80 for the blade.
53Sparky
Well-known member
Have:
1) Access to as much Baltic birch as I want (scrap & full sheets)
2) CNC machine
3) Time to run the machine while at work
Need: tool storage for the shop
Result: Pending...
1) Access to as much Baltic birch as I want (scrap & full sheets)
2) CNC machine
3) Time to run the machine while at work
Need: tool storage for the shop
Result: Pending...
RezinTexas
Member
Here's a new Dewalt charger bracket I made and a gang charger for the new tools at work.
This is extremely satisfying to look at. Nice work!
machine_punk
Well-known member
Strut on the Walls
Here are some storage ideas in The Aerodrome Studio, version 2 (just moved to a new home a few months ago and setting up the shop and garage).
I bolted strut vertically on the wall, every other stud, giving me 32" spacing (800mm). I use it to mount a lot of things on the wall, from tool storage racks to the large fan I use to keep the shop cool.
I welded 1/8" (3mm) thick steel pads on the bottoms of each strut, to give them a larger surface area. They rest on the concrete foundation running around the edge of most of the shop. Since I needed to paint the steel pads and welds anyway, I decided to go with an industrial theme of caution stripes in my shop colors (brown and yellow).
I also needed to store a few gas cylinders. I wanted a secure place, next to a wall. I ran some shorter vertical struts (cutoffs from the longer pieces) and then ran a couple of horizontal struts under the window. I fabricated a couple of sets of brackets from steel angle and painted them in yellow. I welded a cut piece of chain on the left-hand brackets, to store the chain off the floor, whenever that spot is empty.
The bicycles were in the way, so we bought a couple of sets of the pulley systems to keep them off the floor, but easy to get to. These come in sets (enough to store 2 bicycles) for about $20 USD.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003TFOPJA/?tag=atomicindus08-20
KDub
Here are some storage ideas in The Aerodrome Studio, version 2 (just moved to a new home a few months ago and setting up the shop and garage).
I bolted strut vertically on the wall, every other stud, giving me 32" spacing (800mm). I use it to mount a lot of things on the wall, from tool storage racks to the large fan I use to keep the shop cool.
I welded 1/8" (3mm) thick steel pads on the bottoms of each strut, to give them a larger surface area. They rest on the concrete foundation running around the edge of most of the shop. Since I needed to paint the steel pads and welds anyway, I decided to go with an industrial theme of caution stripes in my shop colors (brown and yellow).
I also needed to store a few gas cylinders. I wanted a secure place, next to a wall. I ran some shorter vertical struts (cutoffs from the longer pieces) and then ran a couple of horizontal struts under the window. I fabricated a couple of sets of brackets from steel angle and painted them in yellow. I welded a cut piece of chain on the left-hand brackets, to store the chain off the floor, whenever that spot is empty.
The bicycles were in the way, so we bought a couple of sets of the pulley systems to keep them off the floor, but easy to get to. These come in sets (enough to store 2 bicycles) for about $20 USD.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003TFOPJA/?tag=atomicindus08-20
KDub
Attachments
machine_punk
Well-known member
More pics of the strut and storage ideas...
Aerosol can holders. These will either fit standard computer racks (which is what I use on my walls for reconfigurable storage) or they are punched for standard stud spacing.
More gas cylinders in the welding tank corral.
TV & DVD player on strut.
Aerosol can holders. These will either fit standard computer racks (which is what I use on my walls for reconfigurable storage) or they are punched for standard stud spacing.
More gas cylinders in the welding tank corral.
TV & DVD player on strut.
Attachments
Dennis Leigh Henry
Well-known member
Just caught up on this thread.. some terrific additions since I was last on....
Dan in Pasadena
Well-known member
KDub,
I like your unistrut idea but admit I have NO personal experience with them.
When you tighten fittings on them are there any minor serrations or something with "tooth" that would keep a fitting from sliding down a vertical strut if it became loose? Maybe "coming loose" is a low likelihood and I don't think it would be a big deal with most things but maybe with pressurized cylinders, etc. I'd want to know that vibrations over time wouldn't ever be an issue.
I like your unistrut idea but admit I have NO personal experience with them.
When you tighten fittings on them are there any minor serrations or something with "tooth" that would keep a fitting from sliding down a vertical strut if it became loose? Maybe "coming loose" is a low likelihood and I don't think it would be a big deal with most things but maybe with pressurized cylinders, etc. I'd want to know that vibrations over time wouldn't ever be an issue.
For the melamine it depends on what your cutting with.
Table saw, good side up, Hand held circular saw good side down.
If you can get a dedicated blade and feed it a little slower than you normally would a piece of plywood, etc., it will cut so clean and sharp, you will cut your hand on it if your not careful. Then the edge banding will go on smoother.
Table saw, good side up, Hand held circular saw good side down.
If you can get a dedicated blade and feed it a little slower than you normally would a piece of plywood, etc., it will cut so clean and sharp, you will cut your hand on it if your not careful. Then the edge banding will go on smoother.
machine_punk
Well-known member
Strut is amazing stuff. The next time you go into an industrial building (or even a big box store, like Home Depot), take a look on the walls and ceilings. There is lots and lots of things secured to the walls with strut. It also has a very high point load rating, so it is used to support heavy objects between beams and other roof support structures. It is built specifically to work with threaded rod too, so you can clamp the threaded rod to the support in the ceiling and drop down to any level with strut.
There are several standard sizes. I get the 1200 at Home Depot (which I think means 12 gauge steel, 0.1" thick, 2.5mm), for about $20 a 10-ft stick (3 meters). I'm pretty sure it is available in 20-foot sticks (6 meters), from commercial distributors (plumbing, electrical, etc.)
I've been using it for several years in my shop, which is covered well in my main thread (see my signature for a link). You can REALLY crank down on the bolts in this stuff...it isn't going anywhere. I cannot imagine it 'getting loose.' There isn't any real vibration in a building and this stuff is used EVERYWHERE to suspend heavy loads overhead. The strut is not the weak part in this system.
Gas cylinders for welding actually stand up very well by themselves. They are very stable, on a level, concrete floor. The chains are really just to prevent accidental knock-overs.
Here are some older pics I have about strut:
An assortment of strut nuts. They have a little spring fused to the back, to keep it in place on the strut, until you can attach whatever you are bolting to it.
View media item 14153
The end of the strut, with a strut nut in place.
View media item 14152
Their are serrations on the nuts, which grip the rails.
View media item 14154
You can insert the nut anywhere on the strut. Two of the corners are ground down, so you can insert it and turn it in place. Two of the corners are squared off, so the nut won't spin as you tighten it.
View media item 14155
In place.
View media item 14157
The nut in place with a bolt and washer...of course, you'd have the object you want to secure between the washer and strut.
View media item 14158
And one of my tool racks attached to the strut. I can grab the top of this and hang from it...feels like a brick wall.
View media item 14162
KDub
There are several standard sizes. I get the 1200 at Home Depot (which I think means 12 gauge steel, 0.1" thick, 2.5mm), for about $20 a 10-ft stick (3 meters). I'm pretty sure it is available in 20-foot sticks (6 meters), from commercial distributors (plumbing, electrical, etc.)
I've been using it for several years in my shop, which is covered well in my main thread (see my signature for a link). You can REALLY crank down on the bolts in this stuff...it isn't going anywhere. I cannot imagine it 'getting loose.' There isn't any real vibration in a building and this stuff is used EVERYWHERE to suspend heavy loads overhead. The strut is not the weak part in this system.
Gas cylinders for welding actually stand up very well by themselves. They are very stable, on a level, concrete floor. The chains are really just to prevent accidental knock-overs.
Here are some older pics I have about strut:
An assortment of strut nuts. They have a little spring fused to the back, to keep it in place on the strut, until you can attach whatever you are bolting to it.
View media item 14153
The end of the strut, with a strut nut in place.
View media item 14152
Their are serrations on the nuts, which grip the rails.
View media item 14154
You can insert the nut anywhere on the strut. Two of the corners are ground down, so you can insert it and turn it in place. Two of the corners are squared off, so the nut won't spin as you tighten it.
View media item 14155
In place.
View media item 14157
The nut in place with a bolt and washer...of course, you'd have the object you want to secure between the washer and strut.
View media item 14158
And one of my tool racks attached to the strut. I can grab the top of this and hang from it...feels like a brick wall.
View media item 14162
KDub
Last edited:
Crazyjake8493
Well-known member
If you can find a good source of different Strut accessories, that stuff is like Legos for grown men. You can build, mount, or support just about anything with the right fittings and brackets.
admranger
Well-known member
dittle fart around
Well-known member
Any electrical supply store should have most anything you would need. We used unistrut all the time, supporting cable runs, mounting electrical control boxes and building shelving. It's the metal 2 X 4 of industry.
dwysywd
Well-known member
That's awesome! Thanks for sharing punk. I love unistrut. But the tv mount idea, that's awesome... Is that just a std tv mount attached to the unistrut bolt? That's awesome. There are so many things I never thought to use it for
machine_punk
Well-known member
Yep, just a standard TV mount and a standard DVD mount. I just made sure I got the style where the bolts are centered vertically. Do a search on Amazon. They have several relatively-inexpensive options.
If the bolt pattern isn't vertical, I make a bracket out of plywood and drill the holes to attach to the strut in a vertical pattern, like this large fan I have mounted in the shop...
View media item 22545
View media item 22546
And sometimes I make custom brackets...
Like this air hose outlet. (the orange hose goes to the air compressor. I brazed a short piece of pipe to a piece of angle iron and mounted a moisture separator on one side and two quick-connects on the other side. The moister separator works MUCH better when the air cools before entering it.) This gives me two compressed air outlets at the bench.
For me, the strut on the wall is just a place to attach whatever I need to attach, without drilling more holes in the wall or searching for studs, for as long or short a time as I need the item attached to the wall. It was about $200 USD worth of strut, but now that it is up, it is infinitely versatile.
KDub
Attachments
Last edited:
machine_punk
Well-known member
For those of you who want some more ideas about using strut, here is the Unistrut (brand name) catalog...
http://unistrut.us/E-document/Unist...03F745FAC928C0/commercial_051317_web_Rev1.pdf
And the Unistrut application showcase...
http://www.unistrut.us/DB/PDF1/Unistrut_App_Showcase.pdf
That will give you some cool ideas about what you can do with your walls.
KDub
Last edited:
Crazyjake8493
Well-known member
I'm sure our local electrical supply has them, but they're only open M-F 8-4, unfortunately. Home Depot and Lowes have the spring nuts, pipe hangers, and a few angle brackets, but that's about it. I've ordered Strut stuff from McMaster before, they've got just about all of it on there, for anyone who can't source it locally.
I recently tore the luan off the walls of my enclosed trailer to put up 3/8" plywood, and I've been thinking about using unistrut on the walls instead of e-track, for anchoring and hanging stuff.
dwysywd
Well-known member
I agree with drilling holes is a problem. with a quanset hut, I don't have that ability without putting a hole in my outside wall. so, this allows me to mount strut to the structure nuts and bolts. and then I can mount items to the strut. I will try and post a few pics in my hut thread, here https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink?ur...share_tid=314181&share_fid=20318&share_type=t
Sent from my facsimile machine
Sent from my facsimile machine
Last edited:
xyster101
Well-known member
Finished building a year ago and the walls 3 months ago. Time to start organizing as everything was on the floor. Had a pile of lumber, scrap wood, metal and sheet goods that I was always moving around. Made this in Sketch up first to store it all:
It is 2x4 on end with 7/8" holes drilled for 3/4 EMT Conduit. I know this pipe is not super strong but a 16" piece held me. I figure that having 5 of them spaced over 7' would be decent enough to hold lumber.
First up was to drill some holes with the drill press. I put a block to angle the holes which would lead to pipes that pointed up a little.
Then it was time to assemble. I painted some parts first.
Shelf with the bucket will hold 3 5 gallon buckets of scrap materials. Sheet goods go in the back and smaller sheet goods in the front left. Lumber up top.
Still have a pile of stuff to move. These are 16' old cedar deck boards. I will be moving them to the attic for now. No idea if I will ever use them.
It is 2x4 on end with 7/8" holes drilled for 3/4 EMT Conduit. I know this pipe is not super strong but a 16" piece held me. I figure that having 5 of them spaced over 7' would be decent enough to hold lumber.
First up was to drill some holes with the drill press. I put a block to angle the holes which would lead to pipes that pointed up a little.
Then it was time to assemble. I painted some parts first.
Shelf with the bucket will hold 3 5 gallon buckets of scrap materials. Sheet goods go in the back and smaller sheet goods in the front left. Lumber up top.
Still have a pile of stuff to move. These are 16' old cedar deck boards. I will be moving them to the attic for now. No idea if I will ever use them.
astropuppy
Member
- Joined
- Oct 17, 2011
- Messages
- 19
Looking good... I have a very big soft spot for black labs....
nmcqueen469
Well-known member
Well done xyster!!
Thirdyfivepickup
Well-known member
[/URL]
There's so much going on in this photo... where are the rest of the stairs... whats with the ginormous Ghostbusters sign? The randomness of the puppy...
Nice place
hefnerconstructionlc
Well-known member
hefnerconstructionlc
Well-known member
Yarz
Well-known member
owenst7
Well-known member
I slapped this together with some scrap wood just as a temporary way to keep my drills organized while I'm getting settled in to the garage at my new house. I intentionally made the lower shelf hard to get in toso that dust and sparks would stay off my eyeglasses, cell phone, etc. I also wanted enough room to comfortably get to the belts on that drill press.
Attachments
GLTHFJ60
Well-known member
Is that squirrel cage fan set up to push air from inside the shop towards the outside? I've got a couple I'm going to rig up for moving air around within the shop and was considering setting one up as an external vent.
I did the same PVC trick for nearly all my corded and cordless tools..best way to store them
owenst7
Well-known member
Yeah. The guy we bought the house from last year had it set up like that and I haven't cared to do anything with it so far. Ive used it to vent welding fumes and chainsaw exhaust a few times when it was really windy outside and I didn't want the garage doors open. Works pretty well even with the large volume of the garage (three car with high ceilings and open attic).
I stole the idea from this forum haha.
xyster101
Well-known member
Ghostbuster sign was for Halloween. The stairs you are referring too is my block wall as the barn is recessed into a hill. The dog is 6 years old. Thanks. I am always building something in my shop.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
tlucier
Member
[/QUOTE]I am digging the ceiling! I was thinking of using corrugated but I like the look of that. Is that white metal roofing material? Very nice job, and very sweet pup!
atch
Well-known member
I am digging the ceiling! I was thinking of using corrugated but I like the look of that. Is that white metal roofing material? Very nice job, and very sweet pup![/QUOTE]...and if it is white roofing material is it attached with the ridges/corrugations up and the flat places on the bottom? If so did you screw through the ridges/corrugations?
zmotorsports
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Not on my wall but close enough...picked these up for free on craigslist
This is exactly what I want to find for my new shop. I want everything behind closed cabinet doors unlike my previous shop where my oils/lubricants/etc. were on shelves. This looks so much cleaner.
Mike.
xyster101
Well-known member
Ceiling is metal corrugated roofing. It is thinner then roofing as it is for inside. Only painted one side and screwed in the valleys not the bumps. It was cheap from the Amish. I think $800 for 1200sq including J channel and screws.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
combat infidel
Active member
Subscribed
I added a small lumber rack to one of the walls above some of my equipment. I wish I had more space, but will have to live with 3 racks. It's made of some thick walled 1" tube welded to 1/4" flat bar attached to wall studs with 5" timberlock screws.
gazza
Well-known member
Not on the wall but I think its an easy way to store chains.
Cut the corner off a square plastic container, write on the outside the length and type of hooks, then add a coloured cable tie to the end of the chain and the handle of the container.
When you need a chain grab the container with approx the required length and ends, cart to the job, use it, pack it back in and store it.
Cut the corner off a square plastic container, write on the outside the length and type of hooks, then add a coloured cable tie to the end of the chain and the handle of the container.
When you need a chain grab the container with approx the required length and ends, cart to the job, use it, pack it back in and store it.
Attachments
xyster101
Well-known member
I love bikes, but they sure take up a lot of space and without kick stands they block whatever tool box they are leaned against or fall on the floor.
Do this:
1. Screw 2 big hooks into ceiling
2. Add pulley to ceiling
3. Run rope with hook around bike tube
4. Pull it up and away!
Still 8 ft to bottom of bikes. I do have to sorta hold the front tire as it rotates up, but works great.
Do this:
1. Screw 2 big hooks into ceiling
2. Add pulley to ceiling
3. Run rope with hook around bike tube
4. Pull it up and away!
Still 8 ft to bottom of bikes. I do have to sorta hold the front tire as it rotates up, but works great.
I love bikes, but they sure take up a lot of space and without kick stands they block whatever tool box they are leaned against or fall on the floor.
Do this:
1. Screw 2 big hooks into ceiling
2. Add pulley to ceiling
3. Run rope with hook around bike tube
4. Pull it up and away!
Still 8 ft to bottom of bikes. I do have to sorta hold the front tire as it rotates up, but works great.
Nice.
