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Between 485 & 705 SQ/FT A Garage Rehabbed

Workspaces between 485 and 705 squarefeet.
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toddski.ta

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Wow. Just wow. Great work & story well told. Will watch this with interest.

Maybe I missed it, but what are the dimensions of your new bench - really like it!
 
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-Brent-

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Much progress Very Good .

:-D

I'm only on page 2 but you've got a lot done so far!

I'll report back when I get all the way through your thread!!

Great work!

Thanks! There's still quite a bit to go.

Wow. Just wow. Great work & story well told. Will watch this with interest.

Maybe I missed it, but what are the dimensions of your new bench - really like it!

Thanks, Todd! The work surface of the bench is 24"x48" and 43" tall.
 

bj383ss

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Brent,

Nice score on the light. I wouldn't mine having one of those. I have a plastic one that clamps on the bench. I chuckled at your hipster lingo. You are right they have run the price up on everything vintage because they want to decorate with it. Those of us that actually use the stuff for its intended purpose pay the price.

Look forward to what's next.

Bret
 
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-Brent-

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20160924_140659_zpsijsysv0e.jpg

The toolboxes are in their new location. I just missed being able to put all four there by six inches, or so. However, three boxes allowed me to put an outlet at the end of the wall. That side box may get put up in the attic, attached to a shelf.

Obviously, the mess on the top of the boxes is an eye sore and it’s my goal to have it cleaned out and made useful. I think this would be a good spot for a shop stereo. I have no place reserved for one and I would like to find something nice when deals on electronics come around, this winter.

As the toolboxes found their home so did this other stuff.

20160924_185035_zpshcjvujzc.jpg

It really looks like I’ve gotten my **** together doesn’t it? No more “lazy Brent.” Everything has its place and all is right with the world.

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Well, folks, you’d be WRONG! :D Don’t believe every pic you see on the GJ! I can’t be the only one.

Seriously, though, this is a reality of building and needing to use the space at the same time. I’ve said it somewhere in this thread, needing this space and upgrading it at the same time is an experience I don’t often have. It’s nice to come into a job and have the space to work but this is where my tools live so the Rubix Cube approach is something I deal with.

But, don’t you know, it’s 1000000% reaffirming why I do this every time I need to hurdle something only to bang a shin or stumble.
 

drivesitfar

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Brent: compared to the first few pictures where a lot of that stuff was in your driveway and yard I'll be the first on to say WELL DONE!

hope you figured out a temporary fix for your ailing garage door.

have a good weekend.

cheers
 

sublime68charger

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lazy Brent would not have taken the 2nd pic with the far view.

though now that you have and posted it up you will be held accountable to get the rest clean up and nice looking in regards to the first Pic!

you'll get there sooner or later!
 
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-Brent-

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Brent: compared to the first few pictures where a lot of that stuff was in your driveway and yard I'll be the first on to say WELL DONE!

hope you figured out a temporary fix for your ailing garage door.

have a good weekend.

cheers

Thanks, Drives. I got a guy coming out tomorrow to fix the door. For the $140 or so it's going to cost it's worth it.
 
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-Brent-

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Looks like progress to me! Keep it up!

Thanks, GLTH! The plan is to keep at it until I win, haha. The goal has been and continues to be to work on it most nights after we get the kids (2 and 4 y.o.) into bed and settled. I've had days where I've had to force myself to get out there but after I get something done I always feel better and I'm glad I didn't listen to that little voice in my head saying "get to bed early, tonight."

lazy Brent would not have taken the 2nd pic with the far view.

though now that you have and posted it up you will be held accountable to get the rest clean up and nice looking in regards to the first Pic!

you'll get there sooner or later!

One of the big reasons I made this thread, which I was really reluctant to do, was to be held accountable. I'm preaching to the choir, here, but you know how solo projects can wear on you. So, posting this up I feel like there are folks out there that have my back, mentally, and that's actually been a real big bonus that came out of making this thread.
 

bj383ss

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Brent,

That one corner looks **** man. There have been a lot of guys on here that have done one wall at a time. You will eventually get there and when you do it is going to be sweet. Its always challenging to figure out what to do with the stuff that is left over. Trying to make a home for it or get rid. Really like were your shop is headed.


Bret
 

Bib Overalls

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Mighty nice. I like your overall attitude (or is it values). Everything I see is well thought out and nicely executed.

What will you be using to power your 26 T roadster?

When Ford was designing and tooling up for the Model A the chassis and drive train work was way ahead of the body. Concerned about loosing market to Chevrolet he made sure the 26/27 Model T bodies would fit the Model A chassis. Early hot rodders used T bodies on Model A chassis because they were a tad lighter and therefore a tad faster. 28/29 Model A fenders and running boards fit and if full fendered is the look you want. They are much nicer than the original Model T items.
 
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-Brent-

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Brent,

That one corner looks **** man. There have been a lot of guys on here that have done one wall at a time. You will eventually get there and when you do it is going to be sweet. Its always challenging to figure out what to do with the stuff that is left over. Trying to make a home for it or get rid. Really like were your shop is headed.


Bret

Thanks, Bret. The more I get rid of, the more I find it easier to evaluate and move on the next thing. My buddy Bryson has reaped the benefit of a few items. One thing I have been on the fence getting rid of is my press. I hardly use it. I know it's one of those things, though, that when you need it, nothing else will do. I may see if one of my buddies wants to keep it in their larger shops or barns and that way it's still available, if need be.

I like where the shop is headed, too. Thanks for sticking with me and seeing my vision. I am really looking forward to a simple, workable space that has some soul.
 
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-Brent-

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Mighty nice. I like your overall attitude (or is it values). Everything I see is well thought out and nicely executed.

What will you be using to power your 26 T roadster?

When Ford was designing and tooling up for the Model A the chassis and drive train work was way ahead of the body. Concerned about loosing market to Chevrolet he made sure the 26/27 Model T bodies would fit the Model A chassis. Early hot rodders used T bodies on Model A chassis because they were a tad lighter and therefore a tad faster. 28/29 Model A fenders and running boards fit and if full fendered is the look you want. They are much nicer than the original Model T items.

Thanks, Bib!

The T sits well on the A chassis, for sure. I really just need to trim the trunk floor for the spring hump and it'll sit flat.

For power, nothing fancy, just the A banger with a Burns manifold and a 97. In the future I'll get a head on it. Other than that it'll be a pretty simple, no frills barn stormer.
 
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-Brent-

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Back in business. It took the garage door guy less than 15 minutes to get new cables on. Not a bad gig for him. He scolded me for the way the rails are set-up, currently, temporarily. I liked the guy - good attributes!

I'm considering him installing the jackshaft unit (Liftmaster 8500) since it's $125 and it would likely save me time. However, I've heard it's pretty easy to install. What are your thoughts, are things like this worth it to save some time?
 

drivesitfar

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BRENT: i paid to have both my new doors and both openers installed and the old doors and openers hauled away. yes not cheap, but even though one guy did all the work in less than 8 hours it has worked perfectly for 2 years now.

if the same guy that was doing the fix on your door is the one installing the opener at least you know he's competent. you might have saved money if you did the fix and the opener on his same trip, but you'll know better next time or can pass on that information to another member.

everybody that comes to the house to do work doesn't have a clue as you've found out so for the little money to install your opener to know you can call someone if it has issues would be the way i'd lean to get r done.

also during the time he's installing the door you can maybe do some more organizing and you might even find something you can sell that you don't need to pay him with if he might want that instead of cash. i didn't have a good before picture of my door, but the after looks a lot better now and i'm hoping to have a new driveway this spring if i can find the right guy to help me.

good luck
 

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-Brent-

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Well, one way to look at it, you would get a full warranty with the pro installation.

I had not thought of that. That's another plus, certainly. Thanks.

BRENT: i paid to have both my new doors and both openers installed and the old doors and openers hauled away. yes not cheap, but even though one guy did all the work in less than 8 hours it has worked perfectly for 2 years now.

if the same guy that was doing the fix on your door is the one installing the opener at least you know he's competent. you might have saved money if you did the fix and the opener on his same trip, but you'll know better next time or can pass on that information to another member.

everybody that comes to the house to do work doesn't have a clue as you've found out so for the little money to install your opener to know you can call someone if it has issues would be the way i'd lean to get r done.

also during the time he's installing the door you can maybe do some more organizing and you might even find something you can sell that you don't need to pay him with if he might want that instead of cash. i didn't have a good before picture of my door, but the after looks a lot better now and i'm hoping to have a new driveway this spring if i can find the right guy to help me.

good luck


I wouldn't have been ready for him to put the opener in today, anyway. I didn't even think about it until after speaking with him. He was a good dude. However, my door needs to be adjusted as one side (at the top of the door) doesn't sit against the door opening and needs to be adjusted. I think the spring tension is different side-to-side. So, I'll have him fix it and do the opener, next week hopefully.
 
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-Brent-

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Slowly making progress. I pulled out the press and I'm going to stick it in storage or have a buddy adopt it. These are much more used items that now have a place.
 
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-Brent-

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Here's where I'm at with the lighting, ceiling prep/blocking, etc. The blue ceiling box is for power for two 4' 7200 lumen LED lights. The recessed lighting is separately switched. I had some left over from a project and only had to buy a few to outfit the whole shop. The 2x4s you see a foot or so from the wall is for the corrugated steel to mount. Mounting them this was is a little unconventional but it's to save metal. I'll use less running them with the joists versus opposed due to the width of the ceiling and the length of the material I bought (from a guy that bought too much and couldn't return it).



By the end of tomorrow I'd like to have all the mounting blocks installed. I need to make some for mounting the garage door rail, too.
 

bczygan

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Brent,

I just skimmed your thread. Need to go back and savor every part of it. I especially like the build stuff.

One thing I noticed is the multiple roller cabinets. I only have the HF 42" and the red HF service cart. I'm fighting a constant battle. Pushing from one side is the need for additional tools as I do more tasks that require them. Pushing the other direction is the limited storage in the cabinets and limited space in the garage for cabinets. Still trying to find equilibrium. Always on the lookout for things to remove, that I don't use, to make space for things that I will. Every time I go in there, I reevaluate.

Bill
 
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-Brent-

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The toolboxes are stationary. The lowers that I use as pedestals for the grinders and the drill press are pretty much stationary but can be moved, easily, because there's not a ton of weight in them. I store consumables in one and the other has certain lesser-used tools like heat gun, soldering equipment, etc.

In the drill press box the only non-drill-related items are my air tools. I've got everything from hole saws to a mag drill and everything in-between stored there. It makes more sense, to me, to have a box instead of a stand or pedestal… but that's just me. It's not for everyone.

The air tools are going to be moved into the gray/red box, eventually, but that means a few drawers' contents needs to be relocated. I'm not ready for that juggling act to take place, haha.
 
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Ajustable

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Brent, this is a really cool thread! I have always liked block garages, the look is so industrial. Then again, Dad was a mason, and he built a single attached garage to our famly home from block. Years later my first home had a 24x40 block garage, so I may be a bit biased.

Your pictures give me a sense of longing for the old days. Keep it going. Thumbs-up!
 
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-Brent-

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Soo when your done there ... LOL Just kidding very nice work and story telling.

Cypher

Haha, yeah, let me run right over there. You'd love it, I only work nights and weekends. :D

Brent, this is a really cool thread! I have always liked block garages, the look is so industrial. Then again, Dad was a mason, and he built a single attached garage to our famly home from block. Years later my first home had a 24x40 block garage, so I may be a bit biased.

Your pictures give me a sense of longing for the old days. Keep it going. Thumbs-up!

Thanks, Adjustable! The industrial look is something I definitely like and I'm working to incorporate here. I hope you stick around and let me know what you think about what comes down the road. Thanks again.
 

TexasKen

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Brent - great thread and great garage. I am on the same path, though I'm still in the cleaning out phase and need to start my thread. Really curious about your insulation of the rafter bays. I'm researching and debating what I should do in Texas - foam or batt insulation. You're in the Northwest correct? Everything I have read warns against putting batt insulation in the rafter bays because of trapping moisture which will promote the growth of mold and rot. It doesn't look like your garage has any vents (soffit or gable) - I have a hip roof with no vents. Are you not concerned with moisture because of your area, or because of the vapor barrier facing the inside (which would prevent moisture being trapped between the insulation and the roof)? Any words of wisdom that you picked up from your roofing friend and your own research would be appreciated.
 
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-Brent-

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Hi Brent

You have come along way already, and inspired me furter, I have actually started to clean out my shop.
Keep up the good work

Jan

Thanks, Jan. I'm glad folks are getting something out of the thread. I'll tell you this, it's much nicer being in the garage now. I get things done quicker, for sure. I've only tripped over a few things left on the floor, so I still have work to do. :D

I swept my garage this weekend.

LOL

Good job man!

Haha, I couldn't even run a broom across the floor not that long ago. Hell, finding the broom could've taken ten minutes. :D
 
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-Brent-

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Brent - great thread and great garage. I am on the same path, though I'm still in the cleaning out phase and need to start my thread. Really curious about your insulation of the rafter bays. I'm researching and debating what I should do in Texas - foam or batt insulation. You're in the Northwest correct? Everything I have read warns against putting batt insulation in the rafter bays because of trapping moisture which will promote the growth of mold and rot. It doesn't look like your garage has any vents (soffit or gable) - I have a hip roof with no vents. Are you not concerned with moisture because of your area, or because of the vapor barrier facing the inside (which would prevent moisture being trapped between the insulation and the roof)? Any words of wisdom that you picked up from your roofing friend and your own research would be appreciated.

It was super weird for me to not run baffles but, then again, I never had a place without a soffit or ridge vent. Aside from my neighbor I asked a few guys around and they agreed that in my case I could get away with it. We're a very dry climate so other than when it's raining the humidity is really low.

The plan is to redo the roof in a few years. I'm going to resheath it with a radiant barrier although that's beside the point. That will be a good time to see if there is indeed any harm done by the insulation. I'm doubting it, though, since it seems to be the norm for an old-style structure, like mine.

The only vent I have is the gable end vent. You can see it in the pic I took of the shelf in the attic. What's interesting is that I've sealed it up so much that I can tell there's less air moving around. Yesterday, I bought a salamander heater and it needed some work to get it running right. Even with the cycling and inconsistent running I noticed 1) the heat stuck around longer than usual (even with the window open) and more noticeably 2) the smoke is what really hung around. The vent is in the attic only (obviously) but I'm going to have to get used to it being a more conventional space and let air flow when there's a need.
 

drivesitfar

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Brent: not that i'm a structural engineer, but i was going back in your thread to try and see your grinders that you put on your craftsman roller boxes and couldn't tell how you mounted the beam exactly above your garage door. i see you have a joist hanger and just can't tell what size that beam is on top of your garage door that you mounted it to. if you are sure it's ok then i'll leave it at that or if you want to post up a few more pictures of that i'll take a closer look and maybe one of the members that actually is a builder or engineer can give their 2 cents. i love the upgrades to 2x8's with joist hangers instead of 2x4's with small brackets. i also like the stub wall support you built under the one end of your support beam.

garage is looking great. i found this car in one of my searches cause i'm contemplating buying a 1956 old pick up cause i was born that year. i'm sure you have plenty of examples so I'll only post one of the 10 or 12 pictures i saved of this 31 that looks sort of like yours. it was/is for sale for $32000 and not sure if that is realistic, but it does look pretty cool as i know yours will some day.

also i still remember when you first posted your grinders on your Craftsmans so if you want to post up a few more pictures i bet other members might like to use that idea for their shops and garages.

keep up the good work
 

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-Brent-

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Brent: not that i'm a structural engineer, but i was going back in your thread to try and see your grinders that you put on your craftsman roller boxes and couldn't tell how you mounted the beam exactly above your garage door. i see you have a joist hanger and just can't tell what size that beam is on top of your garage door that you mounted it to. if you are sure it's ok then i'll leave it at that or if you want to post up a few more pictures of that i'll take a closer look and maybe one of the members that actually is a builder or engineer can give their 2 cents. i love the upgrades to 2x8's with joist hangers instead of 2x4's with small brackets. i also like the stub wall support you built under the one end of your support beam.

That beam has been there since the building was built. The owner knew it would be a garage in the future but closed the building up as he lived in it while his home was being built. The two beams above the work space actually aren't necessity for the building's structure. The lower beam was was for the ceiling and the upper beam was later mounted by the son of the owner. He was a commercial contractor for as near as long as I've been alive. He and I did talk about what I was wanting to do and he gave me the number of a guy that he thought would put my questions at bay since he didn't want to be the only one saying it would be okay.

His old colleague came down one Saturday and I laid out the whole plan. We took some measurements and climbed around on the ladder and he verified my thinking.

I did have to upgrade the fastening of the beam at each end, which Helped when I was straightening it out. It was way more than a half lap coverage the way the transverse beam is set. The same is true, at the rear of the shop. I had considered narrowing the width of the wall but chose against it when I finally got things exposed.

The way that things are set now, tied together, and upgraded, it's pretty overkill for what it is.

I lucked out, if any of the dimensions were larger, I wouldn't be doing this project. Everything calculated (and not my calculations, either) to pointing out to working out. I've been pretty lucky like that.



also i still remember when you first posted your grinders on your Craftsmans so if you want to post up a few more pictures i bet other members might like to use that idea for their shops and garage


I'll take some new pics and post them up. That's a good idea, thanks. They're one of those things (aside from the quantity of toolboxes) that a lot of visitors comment about.

keep up the good work

Thanks, buddy! I appreciate it.
 
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-Brent-

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Flashback: (and good timing by Drives :D)

There’s a lot going on with this attic wall. I installed blocking all the way across in case I was to hang heavier items on the wall. There’s wiring for attic lights, a circuit for my cord reel and wiring going to a light in the front of the shop. I left the wall open as long as I could since it’s was nice to have the light or to sneak through and climb over to the shelves without a ladder. But all those sheets were in the way and, like I’ve mentioned a time or two, I want to reclaim the floor space.



This is all a one-man-show, so planning and simplifying is often the name of my game. However, one thing I wanted was to run a sheet from bottom to top, effectively making a box beam. This sucker is solid. You and some friends could bounce up and down all you’d like and the floor isn’t moving. My goal was to have a solid floor but I didn’t realize how much putting this wall in would stiffen it all up.




Each sheet (except the one I forgot) has a radiant barrier. The one I forgot is that one with the wire boxes. I got so focused on getting it to fit perfectly that when I tested it the last time and it was right, I banged it on. Then, in a stupor I had an oh-shi… moment. I got happy with the nail gun so there was no turning back. If it was a client, I’d pull it and eat the time and money but the radiant barrier is a luxury and those common blocks are less than R4, so, I’m not missing all that much with that one sheet not having the barrier.

You can see the pieces of wood I screwed to the beam so I could sit the sheet up. If I keep working by myself I may cause humans to evolve with more limbs and hands. :D







Example of the radiant barrier.




It only took a hundred or so trips up and down the ladder.



Then I fabbed up these little knee wall things. It didn’t look right having the shelf run into the ceiling that way.







I dropped the shelf ends off at a sheet metal shop that I use, along with a bunch of other diagrams/measurements for garage-related stuff. And a couple days later they looked like this.



Also, I capped this wall.



You may notice that all the sheet metal is a dull gray. That’s because I knock the shine off all the galvanized so it looks older. Plus, that new, shiny look of galvanized isn’t for me. I’ll go into how I do it down the road.

I had them make a skin for my attic door. Those doors are like sieves when it comes to keeping heat in a room. The solutions to insulate them are often really expensive or cumbersome when you need to get items into the attic. Even though my solution isn’t perfect, it’ll help slow down the heat loss. That’s really all I need.

First I picked up a 2x4 piece of ½” polyiso insulation. I taped it on to hold it in place.









I cut out a small section and screwed in a piece of scrap for the handle. Since it was going to be bolted on I wanted something more solid than the insulation when I was tightening the hardware.



Then, I went back into the handle drawer (seriously, you all need one :D) and installed this. The handle is from a 1940s Bendix washing machine, which was a front load unit. Don’t let some goofball salesperson tell you front-loaders are a new thing.





Here it is, wrapped and ready to blend in with the rest of the ceiling, which seems like it will never get installed. There’s still a lot to do before that goes up.
 
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-Brent-

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Next up is prepping the ceiling for the galvanized. Since the stuff that came off a barn is all different lengths, I decided to really go to town on the battens. Truth is, I’ve never messed with this stuff, so you’re going to see me learning here, soon.



I will tell you this. I’m out of shape and certainly not as strong as I used to be BUT I still got it. I maneuvered those battens in harmony while standing atop an 8 foot ladder. I don’t have any proof but you have to believe me, it was physical poetry. Haha. That said, once those little jerks were in place, I had a beer for me and one for that little rope/curtain-climbing acrobat in Cirque du Soleil, hahaha. I’d like to see him do that with an eight foot batten and a nail gun. I doubt it!



The lower ceiling I'm still messing with. Lots more measuring and cutting and certainly the most blocking I've ever installed in one area.
 

littleviking

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Next up is prepping the ceiling for the galvanized. Since the stuff that came off a barn is all different lengths, I decided to really go to town on the battens. Truth is, I’ve never messed with this stuff, so you’re going to see me learning here, soon.



I will tell you this. I’m out of shape and certainly not as strong as I used to be BUT I still got it. I maneuvered those battens in harmony while standing atop an 8 foot ladder. I don’t have any proof but you have to believe me, it was physical poetry. Haha. That said, once those little jerks were in place, I had a beer for me and one for that little rope/curtain-climbing acrobat in Cirque du Soleil, hahaha. I’d like to see him do that with an eight foot batten and a nail gun. I doubt it!



The lower ceiling I'm still messing with. Lots more measuring and cutting and certainly the most blocking I've ever installed in one area.



Really Well done. I cannot wait to see this thing done. As Im sure you can't wait either. LOL
 
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-Brent-

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Really Well done. I cannot wait to see this thing done. As Im sure you can't wait either. LOL

Thanks! Seriously, man, I have friends asking to have a garage party when it's done. I think they might just want to celebrate no more shop pictures on Instagram, or something. Haha.

I want it done so I can work on the project vehicles, for sure. But most of all, every weekend I have been working on this thing instead of doing kid stuff. I still play with them and such but I'd like to be able to not have to say, "Okay, daddy needs to get back out there and work on the garage."
 

littleviking

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 22, 2009
Messages
81
Thanks! Seriously, man, I have friends asking to have a garage party when it's done. I think they might just want to celebrate no more shop pictures on Instagram, or something. Haha.

I want it done so I can work on the project vehicles, for sure. But most of all, every weekend I have been working on this thing instead of doing kid stuff. I still play with them and such but I'd like to be able to not have to say, "Okay, daddy needs to get back out there and work on the garage."

I'm lucky in that right now we just moved into the house. So the project list is never ending. I'm being kept busy. but every single time i head to the garage I get a wiff of something that needs to be done that's bothering me.

LOL
 
OP
B

-Brent-

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 23, 2009
Messages
4,709
Location
Utah


We have a really good local classified site, out here. I posted this index card file set-up, missing three drawers and it was gone in less than 24 hours. I then took the money and bought a used Dayton salamander/torpedo heater. Of course, it had problems firing AFTER I bought $50 worth of Kerosene (I need to find a bulk supplier before I put diesel in it).




After a half hour of cleaning it up and putting a new fuel line on it, it runs like a champ. As well, I had to personalize it a bit and put some random-marker flames on it. But, back to the kerosene… I thought I was past using that stuff. I had planned on putting in a mini split but I blew this budget all to hell so that has to wait until next year.

A good thing is that the heater raised the shop temp from the mid-50s to 65* in about a half hour.
 
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