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jdm5

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 1, 2012
Messages
281
Location
CT
I have an older model of this: http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/en_US/3M-Purification-Inc/3MPI-US/Our-Brands/Aqua-Pure/AP900/

Works great, used their 'taste and odor' filters. Recommend oversizing it - I initially went with the single cartridge model, and as the cartridge got used/filled there was noticable pressure reduction. Had the chance to replace it with an oversized / dual filter model and very happy. Water tastes bleh long before it affects pressure.

Another recommendation - plumb in a bypass (I used three ball valves) - so your house continues to have water while changing the filter, and if it were to ever leak you still have water.
 
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jeff_gates

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 11, 2014
Messages
149
Location
Olalla, WA
I was looking at the 3M, from reading reviews it sounds like it could use a cheap pre-filter to catch the big stuff.
 

JRC3

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 30, 2014
Messages
12,481
Location
Southwestern OH
I just bought these two units this year for rust and hardness.

http://www.qualitywaterforless.com/Pyrolox_Iron_Filter_1_0_p/f-70t-pf9.htm
http://www.qualitywaterforless.com/Fleck_7000SXT_Meter_32000_p/f-r32-70sxt.htm

I know this isn't exactly what you're looking for but they also offer other filters. http://www.qualitywaterforless.com/default.asp Check to see if they have something like you need.

The units I got have Fleck valves and Clack tanks. They came with bypass, choice of connections, and free shipping.


Hope it helps.
 

D45

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 21, 2014
Messages
4,836
Location
NW INDIANA
I have a cheap ole $30 Culligan whole house filter, does a great job

I change the filters every 4 months, and they are cheap too
 

couch67

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Joined
Mar 18, 2016
Messages
1,409
Location
Ontario Canada
jeff, what sort of issues are you looking to filter out? Sediment, hardness, odour? Depending on your goal, you may get away with a point of use filter, say if you are just looking to filter at the sink for drinking water.


As an aside, we used to have rust problems but when we were forced to upgrade to a new well, no more rust but a new problem - sulfur smell (hot water only)! I was about to put the $$$ out for a filtration system, then read up on changing the anode in the HW tank from magnesium to aluminum. No more sulfur smell!

couch
 

L5wolvesf

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Joined
Dec 4, 2011
Messages
1,831
Location
Northern AZ
Is anyone here using a Template Assisted Crystallization (TAC) water filtration system? They are primarily for hard water issues.
 

Chris705

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 1, 2012
Messages
834
Location
The Finger Lakes of NY
Is anyone here using a Template Assisted Crystallization (TAC) water filtration system? They are primarily for hard water issues.

I work for a company that puts water treatment filters into its stores....we have cooking equipment with steam generators that are very expensive and scale buildup in the steam generators present a lot of problems...we size these filter/scale stick treatments to last for 6 months. We place these filter racks at the piece of equipment (point of use). IF you know how much water you consume I am sure a system could be sized...My gut tells me though the more costly solution is truly a water softener....additionally I have no idea if taste becomes a concern once treated with these scale sticks....

The end result in the steam equipment is much softer scale that can be scraped/cleaned out much more easily...w/o the treatment and hard water will form rocks inside these steam chambers....I imagine homeowners coffee machines and other hot water systems could benefit from the stick.
 
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Garage Dog

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Joined
Dec 28, 2012
Messages
633
Location
Minnesota
Jeff,

Your link doesn't work for me so not sure of the exact filter you are considering. I did go to the site, their products look expensive to me and the replacement filters/media look like they might be proprietary.

You don't tell us what you are trying to accomplish (eliminate taste, smell, sediment, etc) or if you have a well or city water. Those things might help with useful answers.

I just installed a system with two whole house pre-filters, a dual tank water softner and and RO system.

The whole house filters are 20" x 4.5" "Big Blue" filters made by Pentek and plumbed with 1" full port ball valves on either side to isolate for filter service.

The although the filter canisters are identical, the first filter is for sediment (IIRC it is a multi micron media filter with progressively smaller membranes) and the second canister houses a carbon filter.

The filters and the replacement elements are widely available from many suppliers.

These filters were recommended by a friend who has been installing water treatment systems for 30+ years.

Google "Big Blue" for some additional reading.

Good Luck

GD
 
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owenst7

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 19, 2011
Messages
632
Location
Anchorage/Reno
jeff, what sort of issues are you looking to filter out? Sediment, hardness, odour? Depending on your goal, you may get away with a point of use filter, say if you are just looking to filter at the sink for drinking water.


As an aside, we used to have rust problems but when we were forced to upgrade to a new well, no more rust but a new problem - sulfur smell (hot water only)! I was about to put the $$$ out for a filtration system, then read up on changing the anode in the HW tank from magnesium to aluminum. No more sulfur smell!

couch

^^This.

You need to know what you're filtering to apply a system correctly.

I've learned a lot about iron and hardness since buying the house I'm in last year. I've been on a well my whole life, but this is the first place where we have wanted to treat the water at all. Sediment and some iron can be filtered with a simple pleated filter that is only about $50 to install. I have one of these on the supply from my well in my mechanical room with a 50 micron filter. I wash the filter about every 6 months and it collects a lot of material...I also see very little contamination inside my softener valve so I take that as the filter is doing a good job of removing visible contaminants.

A softener obviously removes hardness effectively, but you should know how many grains per gallon your water is to size the system and adjust regeneration cycles properly. You also need to know separately how many gpg of iron you have (that requires a different test). A softener will remove iron but it is inefficient if you have more than about 1 gpg of iron and your resin will not last as long. There is a type of system specifically for removing iron that looks similar to a softener that you run as a first stage. My water only has .5 gpg of iron so I'm fine with just using a standard softener. You can buy the titration tests on Amazon for cheap. This is one for hardness that I've been using that I'm happy with for adjusting my regeneration cycles: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008FM7WLU/?tag=atomicindus08-20. You'll need to verify your iron content also though.

The valve is really the only special part of a fluidized bed. I prefer Clack valves because they are really simple and the parts that wear are typically just o-rings that you can buy anywhere. You also don't want to oversize a fluidized bed, or you'll end up with channeling/settling of the bed.

I would be dubious of any place that sells salt-free water softeners.
 
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rharman

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Joined
Apr 22, 2012
Messages
8,897
Location
SoCal
We recently replaced our EcoSoft water softener and went with a local company. Most important part is the valve - he builds with the Fleck 5810. Been in biz 20+ years, great reviews. After dealing with him, I agree with the reviews. Clean sharp installation. Also installed a single stage Big Blue whole house filter.
www.socalwater.com
 

matt_i

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 14, 2008
Messages
10,741
Location
SE Michigan
I have this one...

https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/company...2+8709409+3291875765&preselect=8711350&rt=rud

Has served very well. 1" NPT ports. I plumbed the bypass but don't really use it. The only thing iffy is the big can-wrench for taking off the housing. It seems like its going to break under 2ft-lbs but is up to the task. Have installed and changed same filters at my parents' house. I want to say I'm using AP815 carbon filter in it. Not that much sediment gets into the bowl from what I have found.
 

Innovate1

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Joined
Jul 28, 2014
Messages
4,291
Location
Illinois near St. Louis, Missouri
I sized and put in my own softener (bought on line) and use a generic pleated prefilter for sediment. We are on city water but it is hard and sometimes has some sediment. The filters last a long time but do catch some sediment. Put in 1" units for low pressure drop. Has worked well with only changing filters and putting in salt for 15 years.

As others have said you need to figure out what you want/need to filter out. How much of it is in the water (concentration) and what flow rate do you need?

Fleck is the name brand valve to get, at least for softeners.
 
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