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Air hammer to remove wheel bearing assembly?

Monsoon1

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I drive a Saturn Vue, and the front wheel bearings are brutal to take off. Seriously a half hour of pounding with a good size hammer.

So i'm wondering if a tool like an air hammer or preferably an electric hammer wouldn't be able to pop one off fairly easy.

Harbor freight has a wide range of these, and since this would be the only use I would buy the tool for, it would serve it's purpose just fine.

There's these for less than $100 but it doesn't mention how many pounds of impact it has.
http://www.harborfreight.com/1-18-in-10-amp-heavy-duty-sds-variable-speed-rotary-hammer-69274.html
 
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Tim37

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Can you post some pics? I don't know if Saturn's are different but, Every small gm car I have messed with you just take 3 or 4 bolts out, take the axle nut off and give the axle a good tap and they came right off. I really don't know how a air hammer would help.
 

WhiffySpark

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I use an air hammer for every bearing. But people on here will scream it isn't acceptable
 
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Monsoon1

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Can you post some pics? I don't know if Saturn's are different but, Every small gm car I have messed with you just take 3 or 4 bolts out, take the axle nut off and give the axle a good tap and they came right off. I really don't know how a air hammer would help.

it's like that on the rear. but on the front you have to pound the heck out of the flange from various angles, just to get it to start budging. my mechanic friend did the other side for me, and I couldn't believe it was designed so poorly that it took that much work.

here's two views

 
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Monsoon1

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I used a OTC Hub Grappler and an impact wrench to remove pressed fit wheel bearings on a Toyota Corrolla and Avalon. Here's a link: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004ZG69D2/?tag=atomicindus08-20

I like the idea, but that's a lot of money. And parts geometry being so variable, i'd be worried that it wasn't a proper fit. I've used various pullers over the years and often it's just not the ideal angles to do the best job.
 

Tim37

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Well I'm not sure if a air hammer would help or not it may allow you to get at a better angle.

I will say the hammer drill you linked to at hf is nor the tool you need it's for drilling in to concrete.
 

Tim37

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I like the idea, but that's a lot of money. And parts geometry being so variable, i'd be worried that it wasn't a proper fit. I've used various pullers over the years and often it's just not the ideal angles to do the best job.

Most parts stores will rent tools cheap.
 
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Monsoon1

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Well I'm not sure if a air hammer would help or not it may allow you to get at a better angle.

I will say the hammer drill you linked to at hf is nor the tool you need it's for drilling in to concrete.

ya, i'm not sure about that one, but it does mention that it can use chisels. and some of them have various modes, so i'm thinking it can do up and down style chipping? I mean, you wouldn't ever use a chisel in a rotary fashion, I don't think.
but at any rate, they also have demolition hammers which do chip straight in and out. they're a good bit more expensive though.
 

WWheeler

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FWIW the OTC Grappler is awesome.

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/EQLge25pUQI" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

A common alternative to buying the whole $400 kit is to just buy the puller part for ~$100 (OTC 6575-1 Hub Grappler Puller) and then get a cheap Front Wheel Drive Bearing Adapter Kit for $50 - $100 at Amazon, Harbor Freight, etc that has all the other attachments you would need.
 

anndel

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My local NAPA store loaned a set to me for free when I did the Corolla. I was impressed by it I bought a set from NAPA for $600. Amazon won't ship to Hawaii even if I'm a Prime member and several their 3rd party sellers will for $300-$400. When I did my in laws' Avalon my father in law was impressed. He said when he replaced the WB it took him almost all day using the slide hammer when it took me only 15 minutes.
 

theoldwizard1

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The fastest and probably easiest way to remove a stuck bub is the Hub Shocker or the Hub Buster. Anyone with a welder and some scrap steel can make one in <15 minutes.
 
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Monsoon1

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FWIW the OTC Grappler is awesome.

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/EQLge25pUQI" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

A common alternative to buying the whole $400 kit is to just buy the puller part for ~$100 (OTC 6575-1 Hub Grappler Puller) and then get a cheap Front Wheel Drive Bearing Adapter Kit for $50 - $100 at Amazon, Harbor Freight, etc that has all the other attachments you would need.
ya, but that's the rear axle. on the front, the axle shaft is loose. so pushing against it would do nothing.
it would need to be some sort of wedge setup like the ball joint removers that pinch from the sides.
but the wedges would need to be much much larger to push the assembly out of the hub.
 

md21722

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The difference is his Saturn has a unit bearing. He needs to remove the unit bearing at the flange. This is NOT a press fit. The unit bearing simply rusts to the knuckle. The Corolla, or similar to the video, is a two part design where you pull the hub apart and press it back together.

OP, the problem with using an air hammer straight on the bolt is you will mushroom the bolt heads. If you use the air hammer, you'll need new bolts, or have some other ones laying around that fit so you can use those as sacrificial. Unless the air hammer is strong, you are probably better off with the sledge hammer approach. I have done it both ways and yes a strong air hammer will work. Brush out the inside of the knuckle to clean off excess rust, and put a layer of antisense in there and on the unit bearing. If you have to pull it apart again, it will come right out.
 
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WWheeler

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ya, but that's the rear axle. on the front, the axle shaft is loose. so pushing against it would do nothing.
it would need to be some sort of wedge setup like the ball joint removers that pinch from the sides.
but the wedges would need to be much much larger to push the assembly out of the hub.

Um, that's the front. Did you look at the vid?

I'm not familiar with the saturn, so md21722's point may be valid.
 

[email protected]

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loosen the bolts on the back side and turn them out a few turns then use the air hamer on the bolts to move the bearing out do alitlle on one bolt then move to the next and the next untill its out or started enough to knock it out with a hammer.

thats a basic GM wheel bearing if you use a big enough hammer/sledge they also knock out pretty easy. ive used a 8lb sledge and they come out with 3 or 4 hits

also after you get it out use a scotch brite pad or sand paper and clean the corrosion up and put anti seize on the bearing to make it easier the next time
 
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Monsoon1

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The difference is his Saturn has a unit bearing. He needs to remove the unit bearing at the flange. This is NOT a press fit. The unit bearing simply rusts to the knuckle. The Corolla, or similar to the video, is a two part design where you pull the hub apart and press it back together.

OP, the problem with using an air hammer straight on the bolt is you will mushroom the bolt heads. If you use the air hammer, you'll need new bolts, or have some other ones laying around that fit so you can use those as sacrificial. Unless the air hammer is strong, you are probably better off with the sledge hammer approach. I have done it both ways and yes a strong air hammer will work. Brush out the inside of the knuckle to clean off excess rust, and put a layer of antisense in there and on the unit bearing. If you have to pull it apart again, it will come right out.
the problem isn't the bolts. I have an IR W7150 impact wrench (which I bought because of this forum :rocker:) . the bolts will come off with ease.
but the wheel bearing hub fits in a housing, and over time they become frozen in there.

here's a video that show's what i'm dealing with.
rather than hammering by hand the way he is, i'd like to use a chisel style electric hammer.

 
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Monsoon1

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Um, that's the front. Did you look at the vid?

I'm not familiar with the saturn, so md21722's point may be valid.

on a Saturn Vue, that is the way the rear bearing is.

the front is entirely different.
 
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md21722

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the problem isn't the bolts. I have an IR W7150 impact wrench. the bolts will come off with ease.
but the wheel bearing hub fits in a housing, and over time they become frozen in there.

here's a video that show's what i'm dealing with.
rather than hammering by hand the way he is, i'd like to use a chisel style electric hammer.


I know what your problem is. Re-read my post, the air hammer will mushroom the heads.
 
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Monsoon1

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loosen the bolts on the back side and turn them out a few turns then use the air hamer on the bolts to move the bearing out do alitlle on one bolt then move to the next and the next untill its out or started enough to knock it out with a hammer.

thats a basic GM wheel bearing if you use a big enough hammer/sledge they also knock out pretty easy. ive used a 8lb sledge and they come out with 3 or 4 hits

also after you get it out use a scotch brite pad or sand paper and clean the corrosion up and put anti seize on the bearing to make it easier the next time

something tells me you guys have never dealt with anything quite like a Vue front bearing, lol.
my mechanic was using about a 4-5 pound hammer, and it took him in excess of a half hour to remove it.
and this was on a garage lift where he had plenty of space to nail it right.
I would be doing this off of floor jacks with hardly any space to nail it properly.
 

md21722

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something tells me you guys have never dealt with anything quite like a Vue front bearing, lol.
my mechanic was using about a 4-5 pound hammer, and it took him in excess of a half hour to remove it.
and this was on a garage lift where he had plenty of space to nail it right.
I would be doing this off of floor jacks with hardly any space to nail it properly.

He is saying the same thing I did, except he didn't mention the possibility of damaging the bolt heads. I take pictures of what happens when you use an air hammer enough. I have a spare set of bolts I use for this purpose!
 
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Monsoon1

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I know what your problem is. Re-read my post, the air hammer will mushroom the heads.

I absolutely promise you, that you are missing the issue here.
The air hammer would be doing nothing more than hitting the flange the same way I would with a regular handheld hammer.
The bolts... ALL of the bolts will be off in no more than 2-3 minutes with the IR impact wrench.
It is at that point that the bearing assembly must be pounded out with a hammer.
Please watch the youtube video that I linked.

edit* the hammering starts around 5 minutes.

it looks like he does an interesting thing to jar the hub loose by hammering on the studs.

 
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md21722

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I absolutely promise you, that you are missing the issue here.
The air hammer would be doing nothing more than hitting the flange the same way I would with a regular handheld hammer.
The bolts... ALL of the bolts will be off in no more than 2-3 minutes with the IR impact wrench.
It is at that point that the bearing assembly must be pounded out with a hammer.
Please watch the youtube video that I linked.

I am not missing the issue at all. I have removed and reinstalled bearings just like pictured numerous times. We are suggesting you simply hit on the bolt heads from the back side. Either that, or use a much bigger sledge than his puny 2 pound ball peen. The benefit of using the bolts is that if you are only removing the bearing and plan on reinstalling it, smashing it up with a sledge hammer ruins the unit bearing.

You can try hitting on stud side of the unit bearing with an air hammer if you wish.
 

2ndGearRubber

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Rotate the triangular flange that bolts to the hub, using the air hammer (obviously after all the bolts are out. Spin it back and forth a few times, and it will walk right out.

No damage to hub, no damage to bolts. FWIW: The HF air hammer will really struggle. BTDT
 

beamrider

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Watched the video. Looks real similar to the Monte Carlo, Impala, and Trailblazer ones I've done over the past few years. None of them took me more than 10 minutes of pounding, on jack stands in my driveway. Smack out the axle, soak everything in Pblaster, and go drink a beer. Came back out, used a 4lb mini sledge to wail on it, and Bob's your auntie.

Maybe I got lucky? Dunno, but they weren't anywhere near as bad as I thought they would be.
 

Pipe

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OP is talking about flange type sealed bearings...

The best way with an air hammer is to take a chisel bit and wedge it between the flange and the knuckle. Then pound away.

Sent from my 0PJA2 using Tapatalk
 

PMD1966

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Sounds like the front bearing hubs on my 2003 GMC 4X4. Heard a lot of stories about the difficulty in replacing the hubs. Took the axle shafts out. With enough scrap steel pieces and a 20 ton bottle jack I got some pressure on the hub. With the 3 bolts removed, I used an air hammer with a chisel tip to get behind the bolt tabs. Hub popped out in a few minutes.
 

md21722

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OP is talking about flange type sealed bearings...

The best way with an air hammer is to take a chisel bit and wedge it between the flange and the knuckle. Then pound away.

Sent from my 0PJA2 using Tapatalk

That's another method, but you can tear up brake dust shields because they're just sheet metal. Maybe OP doesn't care.
 
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Monsoon1

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I am not missing the issue at all. I have removed and reinstalled bearings just like pictured numerous times. We are suggesting you simply hit on the bolt heads from the back side. Either that, or use a much bigger sledge than his puny 2 pound ball peen. The benefit of using the bolts is that if you are only removing the bearing and plan on reinstalling it, smashing it up with a sledge hammer ruins the unit bearing.

You can try hitting on stud side of the unit bearing with an air hammer if you wish.

I guess I don't see the point in this.
Whether I hit the bolt head or the flange, it's still the equal amount of force.
And I am changing the entire assembly, so ruining the unit bearing isn't registering with me. explain?
 

md21722

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I guess I don't see the point in this.
Whether I hit the bolt head or the flange, it's still the equal amount of force.
And I am changing the entire assembly, so ruining the unit bearing isn't registering with me. explain?

In some cases you are removing the bearing to get at something else and don't wish to damage the bearing itself. In your case it doesn't matter. That's why you can just use a big sledge hammer and be done with it. That guy fought so long because he was using a puny hammer.
 
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Monsoon1

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Rotate the triangular flange that bolts to the hub, using the air hammer (obviously after all the bolts are out. Spin it back and forth a few times, and it will walk right out.

No damage to hub, no damage to bolts. FWIW: The HF air hammer will really struggle. BTDT

exactly. and that's what I had in mind.
and you could hit the triangular flange or the round flange and still be applying force to the hub in the proper direction.
 
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Monsoon1

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In some cases you are removing the bearing to get at something else and don't wish to damage the bearing itself. In your case it doesn't matter. That's why you can just use a big sledge hammer and be done with it. That guy fought so long because he was using a puny hammer.

well the bearing is bad, and I have a Moog replacement.
and I would like to see someone swing a sledge with any sort of force in those close quarters, since as I mentioned this will be on the ground. even if you could get force on it, by the time you got done, the missed swings would have dented the heck out of everything in sight.
 

L.Cheapo

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Eric O. of South Main Auto channel on YouTube did a front wheel bearing video where he removed a unit bearing assembly in seconds with an air hammer by rotating the triangular assembly with it. Anyone who watches his channel knows the stuff he works on is pretty crusty. This is what convinced me I need a real air hammer.
 
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Monsoon1

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Rotate the triangular flange that bolts to the hub, using the air hammer (obviously after all the bolts are out. Spin it back and forth a few times, and it will walk right out.

No damage to hub, no damage to bolts. FWIW: The HF air hammer will really struggle. BTDT

Eric O. of South Main Auto channel on YouTube did a front wheel bearing video where he removed a unit bearing assembly in seconds with an air hammer by rotating the triangular assembly with it. Anyone who watches his channel knows the stuff he works on is pretty crusty. This is what convinced me I need a real air hammer.
This definitely sounds like the best idea.

Now can someone link me a reasonably priced electric hammer that will do the job?

:cool:
 
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Monsoon1

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get a bigger hammer....

i wouldnt even bother with anything less than a 6lb.



:beer:

i've done enough mechanic work over the years that I can do any job that I absolutely have to.
but swinging a hammer to pound a hub out makes me hate life.
 

md21722

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exactly. and that's what I had in mind.
and you could hit the triangular flange or the round flange and still be applying force to the hub in the proper direction.

Eric O. of South Main Auto channel on YouTube did a front wheel bearing video where he removed a unit bearing assembly in seconds with an air hammer by rotating the triangular assembly with it. Anyone who watches his channel knows the stuff he works on is pretty crusty. This is what convinced me I need a real air hammer.

That's a good idea. I haven't tried it myself.
 
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