Help with porcelain tile edge w/ block/drywall transition

[pgray007]

I'm making decent progress on my porcelain tile install (full details in my build thread) but not sure what to do about the boarders, where the floor meets cinderblock that supports the framing. The floor is sloped towards the garage door, presumably for drainage reasons, so I have about a 1-2" rise between the tile and block and at the "top" of the floor, and probably a good 5-6" at the "bottom."

Here's the "top" (i.e. highest part of the floor in relation to the blocks):



And here's a view along the one side I've finished. Note that the difference between block and floor grows another few inches from what's shown, as we're about 9' from the door where the tile currently stops:



I've left about a 1/2" gap between the tile and block for expansion... what would folks recommend for:

A) The vertical area of the block that meets the tile
B) The horizontal "top" of the block
C) Transition from top of block to drywall... the easy way would seem to be some cheap molding here (MDF or pine) but I'm not sure.

Other garages in our area just do wood molding at the bottom of the drywall and leave the rest of the block exposed, but I'm not sure if there's a nicer way that's not significant effort. I'm not sure I can get motivated to cut tiny slivers of tile to tile over it, but if that's the best long term option perhaps I could...

Thanks!

 

[Steves32]

 

[pgray007]

So tile on the vertical, and what's the grey stuff on top of the block?


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[Angelfire]

I plan to do tile on the vertical. I will have a bit a gap between the vertical tile and the drywall on the sill but plan to get color matching caulk (to the grout) and fill the gap with that.

How are you liking that levelling system?

 

[Steves32]

So tile on the vertical, and what's the grey stuff on top of the block?


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Aluminum cap by Schluter. Home Depot sells it in 10 ft pieces.

 

[Tony_G]

I would just prime & paint it. I did and I'm satisfied with the results.
I used the same color from the walls, but now I think it would look better using a different one (black maybe? so it looks like a baseboard)

 

[Denwood]

Rent a tile saw and do both vertical and horizontal with tile. The tile is bonded to the concrete so not sure how necessary that 1/2" gap is for expansion.

 

[Cave Creek Ray]

Depends on how much work you want to do...

The vertical pieces are basically rectangles with the lower edge sloping down toward the door. Each one will have to be custom cut, keeping track of the lower angle so as not to cut the wrong side of the tile. I did it in my garage and it looks finished. The top surface should be the same width rectangles all the way so those will be easy to cut and install.

Here is a pic of the baseboard blending into a riser for a step...

Each of those pieces had to be custom cut but they worked out fine. I jacked up the vertical tiles with tile spacers to get the upper edge consistent with the floor tile and then filled the irregular base in with color matched flexible sanded caulk, hiding the irregularities.

Ray

 

[ard]

So that edge will be totally a 'visual' issue, right? No place that will need to support traffic or loading?

IMO the tile is so nice looking that wrapping it up and over will detract from the visual impact of all of it on one plane. Creating a black or deep grey 'picture frame' might be one solution- be it parging concrete onto the tops, and smoothing then painting....or two pieces of wood moulding likewise painted. As someone above commented, it would actually look like a thick, heavy baseboard

 

[pgray007]

How are you liking that levelling system?

I love the leveling system. Check out my build thread for detailed comments.

 

[pgray007]

So that edge will be totally a 'visual' issue, right? No place that will need to support traffic or loading?

IMO the tile is so nice looking that wrapping it up and over will detract from the visual impact of all of it on one plane. Creating a black or deep grey 'picture frame' might be one solution- be it parging concrete onto the tops, and smoothing then painting....or two pieces of wood moulding likewise painted. As someone above commented, it would actually look like a thick, heavy baseboard

I'm leaning towards this plan. I think maybe tile the vertical if I can figure out how to account for the tiny strip I'd need at the "top" of the garage where the floor is highest, and then maybe doing parged concrete (some other new skill to learn) with a strip of moulding on the drywall.

How hard is it to parge concrete?

 

[pgray007]

Here's what I'm thinking at this point. Maybe follow Mick's advice and "paint it black" so it really sets off the tile...