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Need help with calculation!

Sasquatch912

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30x30 area of concrete= 900 sqft

rebar is 10' long

or

steel mess is 5 ft wide 150ft long wrapped

or

3.5ftx7ft steel mesh flat

how many will i need?

which is better?
 
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larry_g

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5x150=750 sq ft 900/750= 1.2 rolls

3.5x7=24.5 900/24.5= 37 sheets

Rebar depends on your spacing

3 bars = 30'
1 foot spacing= 30x3 x2 = 180 bars to build a grid of 1' squares

lg
no neat sig line
 
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Sasquatch912

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5x150=750 sq ft 900/750= 1.2 rolls

3.5x7=24.5 900/24.5= 37 sheets

Rebar depends on your spacing

3 bars = 90'
1 foot spacing= 30x3 x2 = 180 bars to build a grid of 1' squares

lg
no neat sig line

ok thats what calculations i was figuring for the remesh.

is the rolls a pain in the real to unroll and get straight?
 
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Sasquatch912

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Location
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5x150=750 sq ft 900/750= 1.2 rolls

3.5x7=24.5 900/24.5= 37 sheets

Rebar depends on your spacing

3 bars = 90'
1 foot spacing= 30x3 x2 = 180 bars to build a grid of 1' squares

lg
no neat sig line

how about 2' spacing or 18" spacing with 10ft rebar?
 

73fxe

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You still have to lap rebar. It should have a 24" lap for #4 bar or 30" lap for #5 bar. 18" minimum for spacing. Mesh is easier.
 

larry_g

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You still have to lap rebar. It should have a 24" lap for #4 bar or 30" lap for #5 bar. 18" minimum for spacing. Mesh is easier.

So you have to add 25% to my numbers? I did not figure overlap so it takes 4 bars to span the 30'..


lg
no neat sig line
 
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Sasquatch912

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Heres how far Ive gotten.


will steel remesh be ok or just use rebar?
 

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lakeroadster

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... will steel remesh be ok or just use rebar?

Rebar vs mesh... depends on how you compacted the subgrade and what the end use of the slab is.

How did you compact the sub grade? Did you have it tested for proper compaction?

With proper sub grade compaction and light duty use mesh is a good choice IF it is installed properly.

If you go with the mesh, buy it in sheets. They are available in 8' x 20' in various gauge thickness. I used 6 gauge on my pole barn slab, 6 ga (0.192 dia) is heavier than the 10 ga (0.135 dia) rolled mesh you'll find at the big box stores.

http://www.whitecap.com/shop/wc/p/6-x-6-w14-10-ga-8-x-20-wire-mesh-mat-4346610g820

Also, buy some support dobies, otherwise the mesh will end up laying on the bottom of the slab, doing absolutely nothing.

http://www.whitecap.com/shop/wc/p/dayton-superior-cwd-2-dobie-with-wire-123704



 
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Firebrick43

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Shop around for rebar. I have used 2k so far in my house and some places are double what others have. I had some quotes for #4 around 7 dollars but ended up paying 4$ from Menards. Don't mess with 10's, what a joke and a lot more time bending over tying laps in addition to the extra waste

Nice job lakeroadster :thumbup
 
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Firebrick43

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You know some trucks and tractors weigh 80000 plus. I know you probably don't have that but you need to be more specific. My 50hp John Deere weighs 9000 due to wheel fluid/weight.
 
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Sasquatch912

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You know some trucks and tractors weigh 80000 plus. I know you probably don't have that but you need to be more specific. My 50hp John Deere weighs 9000 due to wheel fluid/weight.


Well I have a John Deere 5205 MWFD front end loader. Will be building a forestry cage and skid plate for it so it will weigh a lot

Weight‎: ‎3850 to 4520 pounds from what Specs says
 

Firebrick43

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Amazing how tractors keep getting lighter and lighter for the same hp.
No wonder they need 4wd.

Any who. 18" on center would be fine with #4 rebar. Make sure it's on bolsters or chairs.
 
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Sasquatch912

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Amazing how tractors keep getting lighter and lighter for the same hp.
No wonder they need 4wd.

Any who. 18" on center would be fine with #4 rebar. Make sure it's on bolsters or chairs.


what year is your tractor?


So i need to get how many 20' rebar? around 80?

i saw these 2" chairs at lowes..i may get them.
 
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ard

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what year is your tractor?


So i need to get how many 20' rebar? around 80?

i saw these 2" chairs at lowes..i may get them.

so you need one and a half pieces of rebar to span 30 feet.

You need 20 of those every 18 inched to cross 30 feet.

60 twenty foot pieces BUT that is no overlap. You cant jsut cut a 20 in half and but it up to a 20. so you will cut 20 of them at 12 feet and lap them The remaining 20 pieces will be 8 feet and you will need to add 4 ft to them. So 4 more.

64 pieces 20 ft long

If my math is right....
 
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Sasquatch912

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I keep hearing 3000 psi fiber glass matted concrete will need no rebar if youre not going to have an excavator/bulldozer.

Eh..im lost.
 

Firebrick43

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Concrete is one of several trades that have been doing substandard work the majority of the time because the customer demands it cheap, that no reinforcement and no sub base has become standard. The concrete guys I had pour my basement slab, hadn't seen a crushed stone/compacted sub base in over a decade, everyone throws a few inches of pea or pours directly on dirt.

If the sub base is correct (8-10), compacted correctly, graded properly, the concrete placed correctly and not to wet, and the slab cured correctly, you may be fine without reinforcement. If one or more above condition are not met, rebar may be the difference of having a small tight crack and having a 1" lip when the edge of the crack shifted.

Will you maybe lay on the floor while working on equipment? You may not like fiber as it will cause many to itch.

I would suggest 3500 or even 4000 psi concrete, the extra cost is small for the extra strength.

There are lots of option, even steel fiber which is a substitute for steel reinforcing but you concrete guys might not want to use it. I wouldn't even be scared of a 5" slab if sub base was correct and with the reinforcing.

Really you just have to make a decision and go with it.
 
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Sasquatch912

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What do you guys think about just putting rebar in the area where the tractor/trucks will pull in?

rest of the area will have cabinets and stuff
 
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Sasquatch912

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called the only place near me with 20ft rebar. Asked if there is a discount in bulk. he said theyll bring it down to 6.59/ea.

what do you guys think?

nearest home depot is like 70 miles away from me
 

73fxe

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I work in warehouse's where the concrete is 5 1/2" - 6 " thick. They run fork lifts with pallets of canned goods over them all day. 4000 psi concrete, #4 bar 18" oc.. It should work for You.
 

wtfdskin

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I just did my driveway. 65 yards worth. Concrete guy (also my cousin) told me fiber is a waste. Take that money and use toward rebar or wire. All the fiber does is prevent the tiny surface spider cracks on a smooth finish. Does nothing for actual cracking strength.

P.S. I paid full price no family discount so i took his word for it. Theyve bee. In the business 40+ years.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G891A using Tapatalk
 

lakeroadster

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I just did my driveway. 65 yards worth. Concrete guy (also my cousin) told me fiber is a waste. Take that money and use toward rebar or wire. All the fiber does is prevent the tiny surface spider cracks on a smooth finish. Does nothing for actual cracking strength.

And that's not a waste. It also holds any small surface cracks together.

Don't use fiber instead of reinforcing steel... use them both.
 

lakeroadster

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Will you maybe lay on the floor while working on equipment? You may not like fiber as it will cause many to itch.

:spit:

Naked? What exactly are you doing out there Firebrick?

Checking the accuracy of my plumb bob. What else?

Never wear short sleeves?

TMI :eek:

Guess I live a charmed life. I have never had an itching problem from concrete fiber... (5) different garage floors that all had fiber, spanning about 30 years.

I've never even heard of it being an issue...
 

KenC

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Fiber is not an itchy problem if you remove the fibers that stick up after it's cured. Easiest way is a propane 'weed burner'. Just brush the flame across the surface and it'll quickly remove any fibers that do stick up from the concrete.
 
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Sasquatch912

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ok im seeing if lowes can order me 64 pieces of rebar. if so, ill get it and the rebar chairs and buy the 10'x100' 6 mil poly. If all works out ill hopefully do the concrete saturday.
 
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