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18mm Deep Socket Showdown: SK vs Duralast

FlushingDIYer

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May 13, 2016
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Just had the chance to organize some sockets. Finally got my SKs today. Wow, they're so smooth. I noticed that they're noticeably thinner than anything I'm used to. So that'll be nice because I'm sure they'll fit where others did not. I don't have a USA Craftsman 18mm deep so I'm comparing this to what I have. Good ol, lifetime warranty, Duralast from down the street.

SK on the left, Duralast on the Right:
You'll notice they're both pretty much the same height. Duralast has that tacky red stripe that's already coming off. Duralast also has the size numbering upside down which is really annoying. (Unless of course all your sockets are like that...) The difference in chrome quality is like the difference between a White Castle hamburger and a Shake Shack burger. The SK is much smoother.
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SK on the left, Duralast on the Right:
Insides are totally different. With the Duralast having a lot more metal on it. Talk about chunky! The Duralast looks like it's been through a lot of work but I've only had it less than a year. Did complete suspension work on four cars with this socket so it's only been used on high torque applications. (But still, only four cars...) Socket grooves are at least twice as deep as on the SK. Socket grooves are very different from one another with the Duralast having rounded edges and this SK being more "straight." Are SKs known to have immensely strong, thin metal?
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SK on the left, Duralast on the Right:
Butts are different, too. Duralast is definitely more "loosey" than the SK. Socket opening is wider, too. The detent is deeper on the Duralast. Guess I should have taken a picture with the sockets on ratchets to see if they seat differently...
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Don't know how the SK will function but I'm going to give it a go on Saturday and see how it handles. I am not moving this Duralast socket into my old Craftsman case because my 18mm gets a lot of work and I wouldn't want to have to drive anywhere to replace a socket... But I'm switching to SK full on now. I am looking forward to giving it a go!
:3gears:
 

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6PTsocket

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You are comparing a well made in USA socket with a cheap import. With better metalurgy SK can make a strong thin socket that is probably stronger than the cheap one. They both supposedly meet ANSI specs. Can you fix a car with a cheap socket? Sure, but if durability, fit, finish and the ability to get into tighter spaces matter to you,buy SK or another reputable brand. You have identified most of the visible differences. If I really had to lean on a socket I know which one I would choose.

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gdocktor3

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Now buy a Snap On and compare the three of them. You'll wonder how a socket could be nicer then the SK.
 

Infinia

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talk about chunky
This is also what I noticed on the newest Lowes Kobalt sockets compared to Old USA Craftsman ( I measured diameters about an avg. 1mm more than USA stuff).
More noticeable were that short sockets where longer too, chunky indeed.
If I wanted longer id use a deep, folks this is not an advantage in tight quarters!
 
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gungatim

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Jan 8, 2013
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west mich
Never knew an 18mm was ever used !

motorcycle spark plugs. I bought a duralast and it was too thick. some bikes the plugs are recessed pretty deep and it needs a thinwall 18mm to get at them-assuming you lost the factory tool...I had to spring for a snap-on 18mm deep to use for those.
 

Fedwrench

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The cosmetic differences really don't mean anything. like the size markings for example, when attached to a drive tool, the duralast size markings are right side up. Duralast didn't get the memo that metric tools are coded blue and SAE are red. they're the only ones that screw that up other than Tekton's wrench racks. As for the thicker walls, many manufacturer's share socket blanks between sizes. 18mm might have thicker walls but, 19mm will be thinner. On the square drive end, often the scallops for the drive tool detent ball are deeper from companies without quick release ratchets. The detent ball on a craftsman quick release ratchet is probably the smallest one on the market so, some movement with attachments happens. I've also seen some manufacturers radius the corners slightly on the square drive end. Why? I have no idea unless they're trying to apply off corner engagement to the drive tool end :dunno:
The SK should serve you well. But in the end it's only a socket and how it performs is usually determined by the person using it.:beer:
 

cliftonbros89

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Missouri
You can dismantle a lot of John Deere stuff with an 18mm. One of the most common for JD in the last 20 years.

I also several SK sockets. Always been very pleased with my SK stuff.


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FlushingDIYer

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Now buy a Snap On and compare the three of them. You'll wonder how a socket could be nicer then the SK.

Yeah. I don't think I'll ever own Snap On unless I come into some windfall of money... But I'd love to see the three next to one another!! The Duralast to SK upgrade represents exactly the kind of upgrade, I would imagine, many (non-pro) folks might consider spending money on. But Duralast also represents, at least here in the Northeast, the easiest way to "pick up a socket" in order to finish up a job. (This used to be Sears... And I usually drive the extra two miles, but sometimes I just want to get a job done!). This Duralast 18 has gotten fairly little use in the grand scheme of things...

This is also what I noticed on the newest Lowes Kobalt sockets compared to Old USA Craftsman ( I measured diameters about an avg. 1mm more than USA stuff).
More noticeable were that short sockets where longer too, chunky indeed.
If I wanted longer id use a deep, folks this is not an advantage in tight quarters!

I was also surprised. Those clearances are not very forgiving!

Especially on lower control arms ;)

Volvo control arms... Volvo tie rods... Subframe bushing bolts... It's gotten a fair amount of use. But again, nothing crazy...
 

Ign

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The hex on the SK is much more shallow, yes? To theoretically keep a nut from sliding in too far? This always seems like a great idea but sometimes it's a problem
 

6PTsocket

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S-K is on par with truck brands and is well made reputable American made quality tool compared to that cheap TaiChinc POS....
Be careful what you say. Some SnapOn troll will be all over you for suggesting SK is comperable to SOUND OF TRUMPETS!!! SnapOn. I agree. I think SK is good bang for the buck and owned and made in USA.

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anndel

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I would pick the SK over the Duralast. Thinner metal not necessarily mean weaker, perhaps better-higher tech metal.
 

T45

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Nobody has mentioned the lack of flank drive profile?
 

Brownsfan

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Cleveland Ohio
I think Duralast shifted/changed suppliers back to a Taiwan OEM . The new sets they have on sale and are all Taiwan made like seen here. http://www.autozone.com/ratchets-so...st-45-pcs-socket-set/15879_0_0/?checkfit=true
All the loose ratchets are now 72t as well and have the same part numbers as the old 36t. Some older sets are China but all the newest are Taiwan and seem pretty decent for the money. I need a 1/4 drive set for the service van so it needs to have a carry case and I think I may pick up the above set. Someone walked off with my Gearwrench 51pc set while doing some GPS installs at local landscaping/snow plowing company. I know it was one of the drivers. They were NOT HAPPY the boss was going to now be monitoring them. I was doing them inside the large shop and was using a nearby table for a bench(owner put it there for me to use) and when I went to get them they were gone.
 

Kev442

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The hex on the SK is much more shallow, yes? To theoretically keep a nut from sliding in too far? This always seems like a great idea but sometimes it's a problem

I'll be finding out how often this happens as my new GW is shallow, while my old no names are full depth. It seems to me that shallow is both cheaper to make but also stronger.
 

hangfirew8

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Central Maryland
Nobody has mentioned the lack of flank drive profile?
It doesn't lack the flack drive profile, unless you mean the cosmetic radius in the corners. As long as the flat centers are proud, it will do the job better then a flat sided hex.

-HF
 
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FlushingDIYer

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It doesn't lack the flack drive profile, unless you mean the cosmetic radius in the corners. As long as the flat centers are proud, it will do the job better then a flat sided hex.

-HF

I didn't know there were variations of flank drive across the the SK line? :headscrat

But yes, as long as it doesn't round anything out, that's all that matters!
 
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