Hi guys, I'm new here and have a question about hanging shelves from a soffit. I've got a drywalled garage with a 13' high ceiling and I'd like to install some storage like these overhead mightyshelves. However the ceiling from which I'd hang the shelves has a soffit. Do you think the framing in the soffit would support the load?
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Hang shelves from a soffit?
- Thread starter mathman
- Start date
matt_i
Well-known member
I would say no, not unless you opened it up to see about the construction.
My opinion is that 99.5% of everyone framing a chase would build this just to hold up the drywall and very very little more.
My opinion is that 99.5% of everyone framing a chase would build this just to hold up the drywall and very very little more.
Radix2
Well-known member
why not just use normal shelf track and brackets- it is nice not to have the supports in the way for long items. I'm not sure mighty shelves solve anything here...
padroo
Well-known member
I agree with the others, my guess is you will find a 2 X 2 behind that drywall.
cdestuck
Well-known member
Why not extend the shelves our past the soffit and support them from the main ceiling joists. Nice to have nice deep shelves.
wssix99
Well-known member
I've got a drywalled garage with a 13' high ceiling and I'd like to install some storage like these overhead mightyshelves.
No matter how your roof is built, these are a bad idea. Heavy shelf loads need to be 100% transferred to the wall or floor.
matt_i
Well-known member
No matter how your roof is built, these are a bad idea. Heavy shelf loads need to be 100% transferred to the wall or floor.
I think they are a great idea having built several for my shops and garage. As long as they are used within reason*. The loading is theoretically split between the cleat on the wall and the outboard support. The bottom chord load is only like 2 feet out from the block on a typical 20-something foot span.
My opinion is getting a solid connection to the chord is the biggest issue. I would not use lag screws personally. Deep #10 deck screws or GRK framing screws.
* not for your big block cylinderhead collection
Slednut
Well-known member
If you're able I'd build cabinets, they will be supported by the wall and if you put doors on them all the stuff you put in them stays clean.
wssix99
Well-known member
I think they are a great idea having built several for my shops and garage. As long as they are used within reason*. The loading is theoretically split between the cleat on the wall and the outboard support.
Generally 50/50 of the load is on the wall and then hanging from the ceiling - all depending on where the load is concentrated on the shelves.
My opinion is getting a solid connection to the chord is the biggest issue. I would not use lag screws personally. Deep #10 deck screws or GRK framing screws.
Agreed. There are situations where these types of things can't be avoided. Anything to spread the load across ceiling members or to put the load on top of the ceiling vs. a bottom chord of a truss, etc. will help tremendously. So, adding members to spread the loads across ceiling components is good - or even better to run the cables/attachments up to to the top of the roof to purlins that sit on top of the roof structure/trusses where they are strong.
I've also had some success with this type of shelf:
View media item 65594
It is strong enough for me to do a pull-up on, but it only attaches to the wall. The advantage is that there is 100% clear space underneath. (No brackets or stanchions.) The disadvantage is that some of the shelf space is lost up top for the bracket/lever support.
I have a place where I have concrete walls that jut out at the top of the ceiling, so I was going to loose this space anyway. I was making a light well, but it turned out to be super-strong. In other areas, I fired the support out from the wall with lumber to match the profile. I just have small "straps" of plywood connecting the ladder frame shelf to the top supports. (I then have drywall hung over the straps to make it look like enclosed wall.)