To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

Emglo compressor overhaul help

volaredon

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 7, 2012
Messages
1,620
Location
IL
I am finally getting around to rebuilding my Emglo compressor.
I have narrowed the issue down to a bad valve or 2, but since I bought the whole kit, I'm gonna rebuild the whole thing.
My pump is a "W" model, 4 cylinder 2 stage.
Questions;
Can anyone supply me with torque specs for the cylinder to crankcase and head to cylinder bolts?
How does the flywheel come off, no setscrews perpendicular to the crankshaft, all I see is a roll pin that goes inline with the crank, 1/2 in the flywheel and teh other 1/2 in the crank from the end. The roll pin is flush with the crank and flywheel hub, how to remove? there is a seal there that looks to be leaking and comes in the kit that I bought so I want to replace it (otherwise I would not be wanting the flywheel off)
(this one may be dumb actually) I see valves marked K145 and K146 in their little packets within the kit. Which valves go where?

I have seen such info available online back when I 1st bought this compressor (when it was working fine and didnt need any service) Now that I need to work on it 10+ years after I bought it, I can't find the info I seek...
I should have printed and saved what I'd seen online back then for future reference just in case....
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

md21722

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 30, 2015
Messages
1,840
Location
Mt Juliet, TN
I could call Jenny 814-445-3400 on Monday and ask them. I have heard of using a three jaw puller to get the flywheel off but have not been able to rent a puller at the local parts stores that would fit well enough to do it on one of my parts K pumps. Share what they you with us!
 
OP
V

volaredon

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 7, 2012
Messages
1,620
Location
IL
thanks.
I have another Emglo, a KU that used to be on a hotdog/wheelbarrow set of tanks, this one I initially bought used several years ago for one side job thinking that it would be the best sort of unit for that one job. It turned out not to be.
Its tanks were pin-holey and I was chasing pinholes first with my MIG gun, then with an oxyfuel torch and brazing rod.... so I cut the engine and pump base from the holey tanks and found a POS Craftsman oilless with a burnt up motor, just so I could have its tank, wound up welding the Emglo motor base to the Crapsman tank and went from 8 gallon to 30 gallon tank capacity in the process. I have used it extensively since my big Emglo started giving me issues as a "backup" unit. The 5HP Briggs came up with an appetite for oil that I couldn't keep up with, and locked it up after ALOT of run time in my hands. so I stuck another, newer, 5HP Briggs that I had sitting here collecting dust, onto that base. That one has been a great "backup" unit.

The gas powered Emglo I bought to run 2 Binks automotive style paint guns thinking it would be the "hot ticket" to paint a barn with. out in the middle of nowhere. those Binks model 7s wouldnt pass that heavy barn paint, so I wound up with an airless sprayer for that job.

on the W pump, the reason for this thread, that one was a former body shop "back up" that I got when the shop owner retired. I see "just the pump" without the rest of the compressor selling for 3X what I paid for this compressor 15 years ago, and I have also used that one extensively for being just in a "home" garage, so I thought it was "worth it" to get going again instead of buying new.
 

md21722

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 30, 2015
Messages
1,840
Location
Mt Juliet, TN
Many or most of the contractor Emglo wheelbarrow compressors have been beat to hell by the time they are for sale. From what I have seen they only come for sale when they leak so bad they don't make pressure anymore, or they are retiring. Jenny/Emglo pumps are solid and should be long lived. The cast iron machining is excellent, disc valves on all of them because they were engineered with constant run w/ unloaders in mind. I have two Emglo K pumps, one a K and the other a KU, and have been eyeing a W/U pump to add more volume. In many cases replacement pumps plus motor cost nearly as much as entire new compressor and that follows with IR, Champion, Jenny, etc. At that point a new tank is more or less free and has all the plumbing you'd need or want.
 
Last edited:

md21722

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 30, 2015
Messages
1,840
Location
Mt Juliet, TN
How does the W sound compared to the K pumps? Do you have any data on head temperature? The W should be running around 760 with a 5HP motor. The K/KU run around 1140 with a 2HP motor.
 
OP
V

volaredon

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 7, 2012
Messages
1,620
Location
IL
in my case the W is quieter since it is 5HP 220V Electric and my KU is 5HP Briggs and Stratton powered. (though the current Briggs is quieter than the one it replaced for some reason, engines were identical just 8 years difference in age)
 
OP
V

volaredon

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 7, 2012
Messages
1,620
Location
IL
still need to get that flywheel off,
found teh actual "problem" with that "W" pump (2 intake valves w/ busted springs) but since I have the whole rebuild kit I am installing the whole kit)
To that end, I pulled the jugs off and honed them, in prep for new rings. (I bought a brand new dingle ball hone from Ebay in 2-1/2" dia specifically for this task)
While I have them off I see that I have play in the wrist pin but only on the high pressure piston.
It is the only one of teh 4 where the wrist pin is held in by a roll pin instead of snap rings. I can see wear on the wrist pin once apart but nothing I can feel. I didnt know that these things had needle bearings in the ends of the connecting rods til I had that piston seperated from the rod.
I need torque specs for the rods, the jugs to block bolts and the head bolts. Can anyone help me with those specs?
 
OP
V

volaredon

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 7, 2012
Messages
1,620
Location
IL
ok... update time. First a little back story (sorry if it gets a little long)

I have overhauled several (different) engines over the years, from 1 cyl. aluminum Briggs to 1 cyl. cast iron kohlers to many different American car engines. been playing with them since I was 12 or 13, back around 1980. I am a fleet mechanic for the State that I live in.
but this is my 1st air compressor pump rebuild. and I'd never done an engine where the cylinder jug separated from the crankcase, much like a motor cycle engine does.
I figured it would have to have many similarities to rebuilding an engine but until I did it, didn't know exactly to what extent.
I do not know why, but 20 years ago and more, I used to not care much about collateral damage or remembering how things went back together as I pulled (more like "ripped" and "tore") something apart; but as I get older, while I still like working on things mechanical, I am more afraid of such things as I go, (maybe because I don't have the "bank of Dad" to bail me out any more)
I wind up asking a million questions that in the end wind up being "stupid"/ un necessary once I actually get into the machine and start work, things become more self explanatory as I get into a job. I also find myself having to read and re read written instructions more than once, and still come away saying "huh"? until I actually get inside. then it becomes (more) obvious, what was read. Another "I don't remember being like that when I was younger" sort of thing.
This is my own personal "at home" compressor which I have had around 15 years, and bought it (well) used at that point, compressor is a 1987 model, going by tank certification date. Used it quite a lot for 10-12 years, totally trouble free.
this unit has since been sitting a while, as it started acting screwy on me/ but I had a (smaller) spare, albeit gas powered, compressor to patch me thru. (and gotten back to more old school "hand wrenching") I had forgotten exactly what this unit was doing, ( that it wasn't supposed to be), beyond a motor issue that had me pull the motor and take it in to the electric motor rebuilding shop back then. I did a search here on GJ and found threads that I put up on here 3 years ago, asking "what's up" with this thing. back then I had still run it from my shed, and run an air hose thru the front yard to the garage when I needed air. Quiet that way, put of sight/out of mind, but regular draining and maintenance fell away since it wasn't right there in my way.... I now have it in the detached garage right with me.

I put the motor back on and it no longer tripped the breaker as soon as I turned it on like it had been, but (only) then, remembered that shortly before I quit using it due to the motor issue, it started all of a sudden started taking "forever" to pump up. I dug out the rebuild kit I had gotten and blew off the dust, found the receipt inside from 3 years ago when I'd bought it. Yikes!!! so it was time to tear into it.
Since I had the whole kit, I pretty much decided to do a complete job on it even if it wound up "not really needing it".
As I pulled it apart I discovered part of the issue. Some of the intake valve springs had busted, so they wouldn't seal, would push air that was drawn in right back out the intake valves instead of the exhaust valves. but the seal behind the flywheel was also throwing oil, and I had the rings and gaskets sitting here too, made no sense "not to" put them in.
I went to ebay and bought a dingle ball hone just for this job, in the size of my compressor's bore. Everything pretty much came apart easy enough, spread all the pieces across the bench as they came off. I got it apart and saw 1 piston that seemed to have wrist pin slop. (the compressor was not knocking a bit) so I went to motion Industries and had them match me up a new needle roller bearing and order it. (the other 3 cylinders do not have this, only the 2nd stage piston) I found that pistons and wrist pins are separate pieces on this unit so I ordered the 2nd stage piston and wrist pin, I saw wear on the pin but could not feel it. the piston had a couple of scratches in it too so what the hey.... get one of them comin too. so 2 more weeks go by, waiting for them...
get them in the mail, and go to install them// and decide to pull the flywheel and go after that seal, before I reinstall that piston and rod.
Here was the worst issue that I ran into. Emglo used a roll pin that half went into the flywheel and half into the crank, from the end of the crank. Into a blind hole. so no way to drive that roll pin out. I used a Dremel to wallow out the roll pin to where I could thread in a 1/4-20 tap... then ran a bolt in, and tried to pry that pin out, to no avail.
after stripping 2, grade 8 1/4-20 bolts, I went to go deeper with the tap. Thoughts were to use the bolt thru a socket like a corkscrew to draw that pin out. then I snapped the tap off inside that roll pin. Great. so now I unbolt the pump, and take it to a guy I know that has a laser burner just for such predicaments... he burned the tap out and didn't touch the crank or the flywheel, cost me $40. got the flywheel off and replaced the seal,
now we go back up. put the new rings on and then discover that I do not have a plier style ring compressor small enough. now what? since the jugs have to go over the piston... so I look on Ebay, ask for ideas on here and burn some gas looking for the tool I thought I needed... as it turned out the chamfer on the bottom of the jugs served as its own ring compressor... lots of running around and keyboard time that I did not need to do, as it turned out.
So the last thing is that flywheel, driving it on with the edges of the 1/2-hole each in the crank and the flywheel line up exact so that I can drive the new roll pin in. Took me 3 times of driving the flywheel on with a dead blow hammer and pulling it back off with a 3 jaw, then repeat, to get the flywheel onto the crank with the edges of those 1/2-holes lined up exactly...
but it now lives again.. hopefully now it's ready to run for another 15 years or more.....
 
Last edited:
OP
V

volaredon

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 7, 2012
Messages
1,620
Location
IL
Got some answers to questions you guys have asked me about this unit before.
Compressor model W5B-80V
W series 2 stage pump, puts out 21.1 cfm displacement at 760 RPM, air output is 17.5 CFM at 175 PSI.
Various temps (may change a bit, as new rings break in) after a couple of consecutive cycles of filling/draining to setpoint, after initial fill from empty.
crank case temp 101*F
bank 1 (both low stage) various points along cyl. jug; ranged from 135-140*F
bank 2 (one low stage and one 2nd stage piston, that piston is also new)/
low stage side, 140-160*F 2nd stage side of bank 2, 180*F right as it shut off
bank 2 @ head outlet fitting (pipe ******) 180-200*F. While pumping, this got to as high as 230*F.
Hose (braided) from 2nd stage to tank, 202*F at pump. 140*F at tank end, was smoking the 1st time that the tank filled up from empty and 1st time that it cycled from the low setpoint to capacity, no smoke noted since. (have not yet filled from empty beyond that initial fill) Did not have my infra red on me during that initial fill but I'd guess it was hotter than readings posted.... hopefully just due to oil in cylinders from assembly and from break in.
Outlet hose varied from 190*F at the pump to 170*F right at the tank "just" after shutoff, and hose was again smoking a bit. It never did smoke from anywhere, before it started giving me issues. ever. garage temp was 60*F
I have non detergent, "cheap" Farm and Fleet brand SAE 30 in it right now, as initial "break in" oil fill... plan to run it an hour or 2 and change it out, then repeat with same SAE 30 ND, then possibly (not sure) may switch to syn "compressor oil".
Cut in pressure 125PSI Cut out 175PSI
I timed it from cut-in setpoint of 125 to cut out of 175, without any air being used while it was filling, it took 1min, 35 sec. to go from lo to high setpoints.... never timed it before but I can tell it is like it used to be before the valve springs went bad, filling much faster now than it did the last few times that I had used it, if I were to put a bet out there, I'd guess the time was 10 minutes+, the last few times that I had used it before the teardown.
pump is quiet, though I do not have a dB meter, definitely quieter than other compressors that I have worked around; namely my neighbor's aluminum pump equipped "Charge Air Pro" (DeVilibiss 3 cyl pump, 120 gallon tank), either champion at a previous job/ they had 2 of them... or the ancient Weaver at my current job...
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!
OP
V

volaredon

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 7, 2012
Messages
1,620
Location
IL
well so far so good, big difference between either my "backup" or this one as it had become, when I stopped using it in the past
 
OP
V

volaredon

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 7, 2012
Messages
1,620
Location
IL
Running good for now, been running every day since,, of and on at least a couple hours a day. This weekend I am gonna change oil the 1st time since being back running, have SAE 30 non detergent in there for break in,
shouI stick with that or buy the synthetic "compressor oil"?

When it kicks in at 125 and tops off the tànk at 175, it don't seem to be getting that hot not when I fill the tank from empty, the hose (braided stainless) gets so hot that it starts smoking! I don't remember that from before.
Also from day 1 when I originally bought this unit, top off time isn't bad at all but fill time from empty has always seemed to take forever. What gives?
 
OP
V

volaredon

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 7, 2012
Messages
1,620
Location
IL
Any thoughts here? Your experiences agree/vary from mine?? I feel like I am talking to myself here.
 

Hchrist

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 8, 2016
Messages
99
Location
S.E. NC
Hey man , I just found your thread on your compressor. I am rebuilding an Emglo GU pump and am stuck trying to remove the flywheel . Like yours it has a roll pin however I'm pretty sure this is just used as a key?? Anyway can you tell me what type of puller was used to get it off?
Thanks
 

md21722

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 30, 2015
Messages
1,840
Location
Mt Juliet, TN
On Emglos, I have sprayed some Kroil on the shaft and then used a small 3 jaw puller and an impact to get them off. Just go easy because the puller is small and the impact strong.
 

Hchrist

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 8, 2016
Messages
99
Location
S.E. NC
On Emglos, I have sprayed some Kroil on the shaft and then used a small 3 jaw puller and an impact to get them off. Just go easy because the puller is small and the impact strong.

Is it possible that you had a different unit? The fins on the flywheel I have are too close together to allow the jaws to clear??? Also, did your have a roll pin?
Thanks
 

Hchrist

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 8, 2016
Messages
99
Location
S.E. NC
Update - I got the flywheel of with a three finger puller. I used a pretty large puller but I had to place 3 pieces of 1/2" thick steel behind the flywheel for the puller fingers to grab. There are 9 veins on the flywheel and the pieces of steel made contact with three veins each.. I felt ok about this but I left a heat gun on the flywheel for about an hour and rotated the flywheel every few minutes. I wanted to get the flywheel pretty warm before using an acetylene/air torch to warm it more. I heated the flywheel with the torch fairly evenly and kept checking the puller bolt. After it was too warm to touch I cranked down on the puller bolt with a regular combination wrench. It didn't move and I really didn't expect it to. I then tapped the bolt with a small lump hammer and, on the third or forth tap I heard the flywheel let go. From there it was just a matter of cranking the flywheel off.
The roll pin is indeed used as a key and the shaft is not tapered. The roll pin came out with the flywheel so I'll tap it off and reuse it. If it feels like it may be too sprung I'll install a new one. I am sure this roll pin help to hold the flywheel on to the shaft however I am thinking I'll drill and tap the crankshaft center to accept a bolt. The roll pin is a short cut IMO.
Thanks
 

md21722

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 30, 2015
Messages
1,840
Location
Mt Juliet, TN
Is it possible that you had a different unit? The fins on the flywheel I have are too close together to allow the jaws to clear??? Also, did your have a roll pin?
Thanks

My experience was on K pumps. I borrowed a 3 jaw puller from O'Reilly's.
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!
Top Bottom