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Radiant Heat for home

Junkman

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Dec 18, 2006
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Northeastern CT
I am moving at a snail's pace, trying to finish up the remodel that was started last fall. I was originally going to have radiant heat plates mounted under the sub floor, however, after speaking to the plumber, and his assessing the entire job, he told me that it will cost about 2 1/2 times as much in labor to install them between the joists (12" on center), then it would to install them under the hardwood floors. I put the hardwood installer on hold, until I got his quote for the whole house radiant. The only part that will be done under the floor will be the kitchen, since it has ceramic tile that we don't want to remove and replace. He gave me the quote for materials today, and it was just shy of $16K. This didn't include any pumps or controls, just the materials to install the PEX & manifolds. I started looking over the quote, and it included 3 boxes of screws (2500 x 3 = 7500), and the cost was $765. I also took note of the roll of 1000' of 1/2" PEX, at $1250 (plus or minus a few $, because my memory isn't that good). I checked the price of 8400 inch and a half screws for my Muro Speed driver will cost me under $200. Then I checked the cost of the roll of PEX, and found that it is about $550 delivered if ordered on line. He used the Uponor estimator for the job, so I specifically looked for that brand of PEX for my comparison. I am assuming that the estimating program calculates everything at their "list" price, and that is between 2 and 2 1/2 times the wholesale cost. I understand that he is entitled to a profit, however, is it unreasonable of me to think that a mark up of $8000 for materials is obscene? I still haven't gotten his estimate of the labor to do the install, since he said that will take longer to calculate. I couldn't even pin him down to making a guestimate of the labor cost. All he said was that it was $75 a man hour, until the job was done. The total square foot of the job is about 1500 square feet (6 rooms on 2 floors. Your thoughts? I am already trying to find another contractor for a "competitive" estimate, but there are not many that do this type of work where I live.
 
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Bondo

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Dec 22, 2007
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2,550
Location
Greenfield, Maine
Your thoughts? I am already trying to find another contractor for a "competitive" estimate, but there are not many that do this type of work where I live.

Ayuh,..... 1) I'd do it all myself,....

2) if ya can't find contractors, yer not lookin' hard enough,....

I did my refit all under-floor, 'n use foil insulation, rather than pans,....
 

Randy in Maine

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Nov 21, 2010
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2,176
Location
The Beach
It took 2 guys 3 days to do the floor joists at my house in a 3' crawlspace. 1000 feet of 1/2 pex in 4 loops. They essentially ran 4 loops of pex inside every forth joist to prevent any kinking. They did have to drill a few holes, but I expected that.

The radiant floor guy (not with the other 2) hooked up to the manifolds and ran the 3/4" pex to and from the manifolds.

Under the bottom of the pex is a radiant foil barrier, 6" of R-19 bats, and then all covered up with Tyvek (just to keep everything up there). The boss guy was $40 and hour and the helper was $20.
 

HoosierBuddy

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May 9, 2006
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2,930
Location
Southern Indiana
I'm curious if there is a "standard markup" for HVAC installers.

My experience from a distance leads me to believe 100% isn't out of the ballpark.

Phil
 

Kaizen

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Jan 9, 2015
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6,948
Location
New England
that is crazy expensive. agree underfloor between joists very labor intensive and you pay for the **** factor. but above subfloor using preformed panels anyone can do. make sure you lay it out ok and bang it in. helps with two people. go to an on line distributor. some offer design assistance for free.
 

Wook660

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Jan 17, 2011
Messages
29
Location
CT
I just did my whole house with Uponor joist tracks that go under the sub floor. Not that hard. If you happen to go that route I have 60-70 tracks left over I'm looking to sell. It's probably not enough but it would be cheaper than you'll find them. I'm in CT.
 
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kj_mustang

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Feb 9, 2011
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1,213
Location
Harrisonburg, VA
Keep in mind you will probably have to cut off doors and trim to allow for the increased floor height using above subfloor panels. The Warmboard-R is 13/16" thick and then your flooring height added too.
 
OP
J

Junkman

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Dec 18, 2006
Messages
6,639
Location
Northeastern CT
It looks like I am going to do this project with a friend that is a skilled woodworker. I spoke to the people at www.Warmboard.com, and it seems that there system of 2' x 2' x7/8" grooved boards that are aluminum covered, are going to be the easiest to work with. I am wondering if anyone here has used the Warmboard R system, and how well they liked it. Too me, it seems like a good system, and easy to install. Please let me know your thoughts, even if you haven't used the product, but have looked at their website.
thanks
 

Randy in Maine

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Nov 21, 2010
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Location
The Beach
I have a buddy who used the system on his basement floor when he turned it into guest room and a rec room. It really worked well in that application. Spend your time getting the tubing to lay straight and with no twists.

I would have done it in my space but did not want to deal with all of the cutting of the doors and such.

Once you go to radiant heat you won't want to go back to anything else. Very efficient.
 

brewchief

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Joined
Sep 20, 2008
Messages
2,370
Location
Michigan
I haven't used warmboard but I have used viega climate panels and recently rehau raupanel. The raupanel was more labor intensive to install but works well, we are able to keep a constant 85 degree floor with it that is very even in temperature(it's in a yoga studio so the floor temp is very important).


The key to any of these type of systems is to plan your layout well and make sure you have enough materials to get it all done, you will need some extra as you seem to end up with some pieces that you cut a small section off and then can't use elsewhere since the grooves aren't right.

The more cut up the rooms are the longer it will take, a small area in a kitchen with a ton of stuff to work around can take longer then a big open room.
 
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