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Precision Instruments 20-100 ft-lb Split Beam Torque Wrench for $96.78

AmateurMechanic

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http://www.ebay.com/itm/331914053295

Currently $111.78. eBay has a $15 off 75 coupon code (CPREP4SCHOOL16, active for a few more hours only) which takes it down to $96.78.

Great price for a USA-made, split beam torque wrench that holds its calibration better than the micrometer type torque wrench!
 
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seanh303

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Nice thanks for the coupon. Used it on some other items I was going to buy anyway.
 

motorcyclist

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Does a split-beam torque wrench work like a micrometer torque wrench? Set the torque and turn until it clicks?
Thanks.
 

Loscaldazar

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Does a split-beam torque wrench work like a micrometer torque wrench? Set the torque and turn until it clicks?
Thanks.

Yes, but they're more durable. No spring to fatigue, almost everything is welded together from the factory so they can be dropped without suffering a catastrophic failure in the accuracy department (don't recommend trying it though). Also easier to adjust because the adjusting knob isn't under any tension when it's being turned. Don't have to turn them back down to their lowest setting after every either, just leave them where you last used them.

Downside is they can't be used for left hand threaded fasteners (never run into one that had to be torque though).

My only micrometer torque wrench is in 1/4 drive now, and that's only because there is no split beam design in 1/4 drive and a 40-200 in-lbs range. I have 3 split beams now (1/2 50-250ft-lbs, 3/8 20-100 ft-lbs, and 3/8 10-50 ft-lbs).
 

motorcyclist

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Thank you for your explanation. I appreciate it. I use torque wrench on all critical nuts/bolts on my cars/motorcycles but I have never used a split-beam torque wrench before. Time to upgrade, I guess. But unfortunately the coupon code expired already :-(



Yes, but they're more durable. No spring to fatigue, almost everything is welded together from the factory so they can be dropped without suffering a catastrophic failure in the accuracy department (don't recommend trying it though). Also easier to adjust because the adjusting knob isn't under any tension when it's being turned. Don't have to turn them back down to their lowest setting after every either, just leave them where you last used them.

Downside is they can't be used for left hand threaded fasteners (never run into one that had to be torque though).

My only micrometer torque wrench is in 1/4 drive now, and that's only because there is no split beam design in 1/4 drive and a 40-200 in-lbs range. I have 3 split beams now (1/2 50-250ft-lbs, 3/8 20-100 ft-lbs, and 3/8 10-50 ft-lbs).
 

jchizzle

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My only micrometer torque wrench is in 1/4 drive now, and that's only because there is no split beam design in 1/4 drive and a 40-200 in-lbs range. I have 3 split beams now (1/2 50-250ft-lbs, 3/8 20-100 ft-lbs, and 3/8 10-50 ft-lbs).


Hi, sorry to bring this thread back up and thread-jack, but I'm interested in your opinion on the two 3/8" split beam wrenches. Which one do you use more, and would you be able to go without the 20-100 since that range is covered by the 10-50 and the 1/2" 50-250? I'm looking to purchase all or a combo of your tq wrench picks very soon.



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Loscaldazar

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Hi, sorry to bring this thread back up and thread-jack, but I'm interested in your opinion on the two 3/8" split beam wrenches. Which one do you use more, and would you be able to go without the 20-100 since that range is covered by the 10-50 and the 1/2" 50-250? I'm looking to purchase all or a combo of your tq wrench picks very soon.



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I'd go for the 10-50 ft-lbs version for 3/8 drive, as the 20-100 ft-lbs version is pretty much covered by the 10-50 3/8 drive and the 50-250 1/2 drive split beams.

I use the 10-50 ft-lbs version almost all the time since I've gotten it. I've only had two times that I've had to use the 20-100 ft-lbs version (the 50-250 wouldn't fit 1/2 drive wouldn't fit), but plenty of times that I've needed a torque wrench in the range of 10 to 20 ft-lbs.

I bet most people would never need a 20-100 ft-lbs torque wrench.
 

z2w

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I bet most people would never need a 20-100 ft-lbs torque wrench.

I have two main torque wrenches: the 20-100 ft-lb PI split beam and a CDI micrometer-style clicker that goes from 4 ft-lb to 21 (50 to 250 in-lb).

I work on motorcycles and I frequently see torque specs below 10 ft-lb.

I also have a cheap old non-ratcheting dial-type wrench from eBay that goes up to 250 ft-lb, in case I need to put wheels on a truck or something. Passenger cars and motorcycles generally don't have anything over 90 ft-lb in my experience.
 
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ER70S-2

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RKA

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I have two main torque wrenches: the 20-100 ft-lb PI split beam and a CDI micrometer-style clicker that goes from 4 ft-lb to 21 (50 to 250 in-lb).

I work on motorcycles and I frequently see torque specs below 10 ft-lb.

I also have a cheap old non-ratcheting dial-type wrench from eBay that goes up to 250 ft-lb, in case I need to put wheels on a truck or something. Passenger cars and motorcycles generally don't have anything over 90 ft-lb in my experience.

I would do the 10-50 and 50-250 (or something that goes up to 150). I can't speak for motorcycles, but there are plenty of passenger cars with bolts in excess of 100. Wheels, brakes, axle bolts can easily take you over 100. My station wagon has caliper carrier lots torqued to 140.
 

jchizzle

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Thanks to all for the input. I think I'll probably go with the following Precision Instruments wrenches for DIY car stuff:
C2FR50F 3/8" 10-50 lb ft (brakes, exhaust, engine-related repairs)
C3FR250F 1/2" 50-250 lb ft (brakes, suspension, lug nuts, axle bolts, crank pulleys)

Still deciding if I should go with the 1/4" (M1R200HX) or 3/8" (M2R200HX) 30-200 lb-in wrenches (water pumps, banjo bolts, etc.)

Any strong arguments for or against Precision and CDI regarding their micrometer wrenches?
 

Jarhead0408

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No strong arguments either way from me. I prefer a PI torque wrench, but I got a screaming deal on a 1/4" CDI so that's what I use inside the engine bay.

Given the choice between a 3/8" and a 1/4" torque wrench with identical specs for underhood work; I'd go with the 1/4". Clearance can be an issue and should you need to use a socket that is larger than those withing a 1/4" set; you'll likely have room to run a 3/8"-1/4" adapter as well.
 

RKA

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1/4" is better for access, however I went with 3/8" because I have a complete set of shallow/deep sockets in metric and SAE in 3/8". My 1/4" set is more limited in sizes and standard depth only. I would rather not have to rely on an adapter on the 1/4" wrench because of the extra clearance required. Do what works for you.
 

jchizzle

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All good points. The clincher is the 3/8" spark plug socket I think!


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jchizzle

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Just ordered a 1/2 PI wrench. I'll wait until next Christmas to get a 3/8th.


I wish I had that option. Gotta do wife's car's timing belt soon!
Did you get the rigid ratchet or flex?


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paulsomlo

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FYI National Tool warehouse is running a decent sale on these. I just ordered a 3/8 this morning.

Interesting - if I go to Tooltopia.com and enter C2FR600H, it shows the PREC2FR50F and lists it as 8-50 lbft. The price on Tooltopia has also gone up since I ordered in mid November - it's now $148, and I paid $121, free shipping. National Tool shows it as 10-50 lbft and $121, w/free ship if you sign up for emails. Could be the same wrench, one with a lbft scale, the other with a lbin scale. I guess a call to Precision Instruments would clear it up.
 

T45

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Interesting - if I go to Tooltopia.com and enter C2FR600H, it shows the PREC2FR50F and lists it as 8-50 lbft. The price on Tooltopia has also gone up since I ordered in mid November - it's now $148, and I paid $121, free shipping. National Tool shows it as 10-50 lbft and $121, w/free ship if you sign up for emails. Could be the same wrench, one with a lbft scale, the other with a lbin scale. I guess a call to Precision Instruments would clear it up.

C2FR600H,

yep the 600 is for 600 inch pounds. 50 ft x 12 in =600

The same wrench with a different scale.
 
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