Looking for Used Stihl Chainsaw - Which One? 08, 038, 041, 044?

[bulletpruf]

Fellas -

I have a pair of Poulan chainsaws - a basic one with a 14" blade and a Poulan Pro 295 with a 20" blade. Both have served me fairly well, but they're definitely homeowner quality saws.

I'll probably keep these around for light duty stuff, but I want to step up to a pro saw. I've done some searching and see that most folks either recommend Stihl or Husky. I'm going with Stihl because there seems to be a better selection locally.

What I need help with -- which model(s) should I focus on? Maybe the 044? I'd like to have something with more heft and power than the 295 that I have now. Maybe something that could run a 26" blade if I needed it to.

Would also like to find something with good parts availability.

I'd like to find something for $300 or less. I can go a bit more if needed for the right saw.

No problem with buying something that needs to be completely gone through.

Here's a 041 (61 cc?) for $100 -- looks pretty beat up, but price is right. http://www.subito.it/giardino-fai-da-te/motosega-stihl-041-av-salerno-190014838.htm

And an old 08 (56 cc?) for $150. Old school look to it, but not sure I would be able to find parts. http://www.subito.it/giardino-fai-da-te/motosega-stihl-benevento-189987003.htm

And an 038 (61cc?) for $250. Pretty good condition.

And another 08, but this one is an 08S. Pricey at $300. http://www.subito.it/giardino-fai-da-te/motosega-stihl-0-8-napoli-184540569.htm

And yet another 08. This one for $350. http://www.subito.it/giardino-fai-da-te/motosega-stihl-08-s-salerno-179930008.htm

Any thoughts?

Thanks!

Scott

 

[CJM8515]

Husky 455 rancher is actually a better, newer and more reliable than the old stuff your gonna have to go thru.

 

[hoho98925]

If you can find an 044, you won't be disappointed. I've had several Stihls and the 044 has been my favorite.

 

[My Old Tools]

Any of the Stihl pro saws will serve you well. The homeowner saws are just that.

 

[188slo50]

If you can find an 044, you won't be disappointed. I've had several Stihls and the 044 has been my favorite.

I second the 044 as a good saw with the 038 in second. I have a buddy who buys everyone that comes up forsale running or not just for the parts, won't use anything but the 2.

 

[wasfuzz]

026 according to my son who is a Stihl dealer - can run 18 to 20 inch bar is a pro model, parts are readily available. He says the others you mentioned are to heavy for just general home use. If you were cutting big stuff than maybe.

 

[My Old Tools]

026 or 260 are pro saws. I love mine.

 

[Davefr]

026 according to my son who is a Stihl dealer - can run 18 to 20 inch bar is a pro model, parts are readily available. He says the others you mentioned are to heavy for just general home use. If you were cutting big stuff than maybe.

No, 18" is realistically the max. for an 026. 20" can be done but would be silly.

If the OP wants to run 26" he should look at 044, 046 or maybe a 361.

 

[bulletpruf]

No, 18" is realistically the max. for an 026. 20" can be done but would be silly.

If the OP wants to run 26" he should look at 044, 046 or maybe a 361.

26" sounds about right. I'll keep the smaller saws for light duty. Also, i'm not a small guy at 6'5" and 230 lbs so I can handle a bigger saw.

 

[Davefr]

26" sounds about right. I'll keep the smaller saws for light duty. Also, i'm not a small guy at 6'5" and 230 lbs so I can handle a bigger saw.

Another couple options would be Husky 372XP or Dolmar 7900.

The 372XP is one of Husky's best ever saws.

 

[knuckleduster271]

I have a new ms 391 and an older 029- the 029 was made before the emissions **** and will actually run circles around the 391.

 

[Farmall 1066]

There are several differences between an 026 & 026 Pro, with the pro being a better saw,
They'll hang with an 029 running an 18" bar.
Out of the models you listed, my favorite would be the 041. Bulletproof saw, but getting hard to find parts for.
For your needs, I'd go with the 044.

 

[mtnwkr]

You have to remember, when people are telling you a max bar length for a saw they aren't taking into consideration what you'll be cutting. Here on the west coast we have soft wood. A 360 is sold here with a 28" bar. On the east coast it gets a 18" bar, -they are cutting harder wood.

The saws you posted links to are too old, IMO.
The older saws are getting harder to find parts for. I wouldn't go any older than the 036/044/066 series unless you find an 038 MAG II in good running condition. It'll cut right there with the 044 but it's a few lbs heavier.
The newer saws have the advantage when it comes to vibration reduction, chain brakes, etc.

I'd watch the classifieds for your area.
My suggestion would be an 044/046. You wont ever regret that decision. There are millions of them out there and parts are plentiful.

Spend some time at Arboristsite.com if you want to learn more!

 

[cre73]

Really can't beat the 044. Plenty of parts available. If taken care of properly they are bullet proof.

 

[MrGiggles]

Echo CS590 is 400 bucks brand new. 60cc, built like a pro saw.

Out of the ones you listed, the 044 is the only one worth looking at. The rest are too old and heavy to work with, and parts may be hard to find. However, if you can find a decent 038 Magnum, they're dang close to an 044 performance wise. Finding a decent 044 for 300 bucks will be tough.

I would also look for a Dolmar/Makita 7900 or a Husky 372. The 372 is an animal, you won't regret it.

A Stihl MS361 will also be a step up, they are easy to find.

 

[bulletpruf]

Ok, the 044 or 046 sounds like the hot ticket. I'll see if I can find one locally.

Having said that, there is a 372XP local to me for $400. http://www.subito.it/giardino-fai-da-te/husqvarna-372xp-salerno-190039960.htm

 

[MrGiggles]

A 372 will equal or beat an 044. In all tests they are neck and neck, for both weight and horsepower.

Additionally, you have to clean the air filter on those era Stihl's every tank, a Husky will go a couple days before needing cleaned. There is also better anti-vibe on the Husky.

 

[Davefr]

Ok, the 044 or 046 sounds like the hot ticket. I'll see if I can find one locally.

Having said that, there is a 372XP local to me for $400. http://www.subito.it/giardino-fai-da-te/husqvarna-372xp-salerno-190039960.htm

Try and pull the muffler so you can inspect the cylinder walls for any scoring. (do this on any used saw you buy).

I prefer Stihl with two exceptions. The 372XP and 346XP. They're legendary/highly respected professional saws. Better power to weight ratios, filtration and anti vibe features then their equivalent era Stihls.

If that 372XP checks out then you'll be happy with it.

 

[Den69rs96]

I bought a use Stihl046 powerhead off eBay. My saw looked decent but ended up needing a new clutch and gas tank handle along with a few cosmetics items addressed. I would check Craig's as well. Be careful a lot of people sell garbage or play dumb. I would bring a compression tester with you and a torx/spark plug wrench to remove the muffler and check the cylinder for scoring. Fixing up an old saw is expensive and many times it would have been cheaper to buy one in great condition to start with. FYI Most of the parts for a ms460 fit the 046. A clutch for example will fit a 361, 440,460 etc.

At the time I fixed my saw the 460 was still in production. The weird part was if I ordered a clutch kit for a 460 it was about half the price of a 046 clutch even through it had the same part numbers. Dealer told me the 046 was out of production so it cost more if he ordered it for a 046. The guy at the parts counter told me he wasn't into saws and wasn't a mechanic so he didn't know which parts interchanged.

 

[Evilunclegrimace]

Husky 455 rancher is actually a better, newer and more reliable than the old stuff your gonna have to go thru.

A 455 Rancher is not a pro grade saw and most definitely cannot run a 26" bar.

 

[kmacht]

I'll second the echo cs-590. I bought one last year and it is alot of saw for the money. It doesn't have the stihl badge on it but has many of the same features at a better price. It comes with a 5 year warranty too. I spent the summer clearing some woods heavily loaded with oak and it performed flawlessly. The only downside is weight. The saw is just a little over 20 pounds so it can get tiring when using it for limbing.

Keith

 

[Jazz1]

I have a 045AV STIHL. lts a beast of a saw and they command large bucks for a old saw. I think you might get better value with a new saw.

 

[check251]

I wouldn't consider any of the saws you have linked in your original post. They are old, meaning they lack safety features. None of them have a chainbrake or any effective anti-vibe. The 372 you mentioned is much newer and has all the safety features and it has a great power to weight ratio. I would also consider Echo, Solo, and Sachs Dolmar.

 

[nickelmore]

I run a ms360 and an 025 Plenty of saw plenty of parts

 

[rick carpenter]

If you won't be doing the major repairs yourself, keep in mind the availability of [Brand X] local dealers or small engine shops. Then choose the brand, then the saw.

 

[Cope]

I'll second the echo cs-590. I bought one last year and it is alot of saw for the money. It doesn't have the stihl badge on it but has many of the same features at a better price. It comes with a 5 year warranty too. I spent the summer clearing some woods heavily loaded with oak and it performed flawlessly. The only downside is weight. The saw is just a little over 20 pounds so it can get tiring when using it for limbing.

Keith

I have two Stihl saws, an 025 and a MS362CM, but I agree that the CS590 is hard to beat for specs and cost.

 

[bmwpowere36m3]

Fourth CS-590.... great saw and scored it new for $350. In many ways, much better than our older Stihl 034 (better filtration, burns less fuel, better AV).

 

[jar944]

The $300 budget will be tough.

Seriously consider dolmar/makita 6400-7900. I've picked up a couple extra hd rental saws for under $100.

028wb in the background


The 7900 will reasonably pull a 32-36 inch Bar in hardwood.

 

[bob15]

You guys need to remember, the OP is in Italy.

The problem I see with the Husky, besides all the plastic, is it has zero lugging ability....it is pure ERPM. At least the Stihl can pull a chain with a slightly dull chain due to dirty wood.

What type of wood is in Italy? Hardwood or softwood?

 

[md21722]

Based on experiences with a Husky 350 & 4 Stihl saws I would say go Stihl. 260, 460, 660 are all great saws. Husky was great high RPM saw when it ran, but it didn't do that very often past the first year of use. Stihl's are high torque and never had any repairs on any of them.

 

[Provincial]

I'll put in a comment that doesn't address any particular saw, but applies to all chain saws:

The performance of the saw is dependent on the design, quality, and condition of the chain used.

The best and most powerful saw can't perform well without a well-designed and properly sharpened chain. A dull chain will consume a tremendous amount of the power produced by the saw, resulting in poor cutting performance. The same can be said for the design and quality of the chain.

A "chipper" chain, with a rounded gullet, takes far more power to cut than a "chisel" chain. If the chisel chain isn't properly sharpened, it cuts like a chipper chain, with similar performance. The cutting angles and especially the sharp corner on the chisel chain must be maintained while sharpening. A chipper chain is more forgiving about sharpening technique, but can never match a chisel chain for production.

I use an 044 for bucking and an 026 for limbing and small diameter bucking. I normally use a 24" bar on the 044 (I have a 30" bar, too) and a 20" bar on the 026. I cut mostly Fir and Maple, but also some Oak. I find that with a properly sharpened chisel chain, the 026 can cut all but the Oak like butter. It cuts Oak well, but not nearly as well. the 044 cuts Oak well with the 24" bar.

I use the longer bar on the 026 so I don't have to bend over as much while limbing. Many of the professional loggers in the area use a 36" (or longer) bar on an 044/MS440/MS460 for limbing so they don't have to bend over at all. I'm not big enough, strong enough, or experienced enough to do that!

Back when saws were less powerful, it was common to use a semi-skip or skip-tooth chain to reduce the number of cutting teeth engaged in a deep cut. This required less power, but also was less aggressive in cutting performance. Since the saw did not have enough power to pull a full compliment of teeth, it did not really reduce cutting performance, and helped clear the chips from the deep cut. I have run a skip chain on the 026, but it is about a wash on performance compared to a full compliment chain.

Not everyone can sharpen a chisel chain properly, and this includes many saw shops. Many don't understand how important it is to keep the depth gauges at the proper height or keeping the cutters matched side-to-side. I was lucky enough to have several friends and neighbors that showed me how to do it, and was able to buy a used grinding machine at a good price.

Don't overlook maintainence on the bar, either. It needs to be straight, square, the groove proper width, and the end sprocket in good condition.

My point is that you can have the best saw in the world, but if the cutting parts are not in proper condition, it will not perform up to it's potential.

 

[bulletpruf]

Try and pull the muffler so you can inspect the cylinder walls for any scoring. (do this on any used saw you buy).

I prefer Stihl with two exceptions. The 372XP and 346XP. They're legendary/highly respected professional saws. Better power to weight ratios, filtration and anti vibe features then their equivalent era Stihls.

If that 372XP checks out then you'll be happy with it.

Appreciate the input. I'm thinking the Husky is lighter because it has more plastic. Would prefer something a bit more solid; I'm not a small guy so a few extra pounds won't kill me.

thanks

 

[bulletpruf]

I bought a use Stihl046 powerhead off eBay. My saw looked decent but ended up needing a new clutch and gas tank handle along with a few cosmetics items addressed. I would check Craig's as well. Be careful a lot of people sell garbage or play dumb. I would bring a compression tester with you and a torx/spark plug wrench to remove the muffler and check the cylinder for scoring. Fixing up an old saw is expensive and many times it would have been cheaper to buy one in great condition to start with. FYI Most of the parts for a ms460 fit the 046. A clutch for example will fit a 361, 440,460 etc.

At the time I fixed my saw the 460 was still in production. The weird part was if I ordered a clutch kit for a 460 it was about half the price of a 046 clutch even through it had the same part numbers. Dealer told me the 046 was out of production so it cost more if he ordered it for a 046. The guy at the parts counter told me he wasn't into saws and wasn't a mechanic so he didn't know which parts interchanged.

Thanks for the info. I have a compression tester and checking the cylinder for scoring is a good idea, too.

I'm in Italy, so no Craigslist here.

Plenty of junk out there, but I'm seeing some pretty nice saws on eBay.de (Germany). With the euro being kind of weak against the dollar, not a bad time to buy, either.

 

[bulletpruf]

I'll second the echo cs-590. I bought one last year and it is alot of saw for the money. It doesn't have the stihl badge on it but has many of the same features at a better price. It comes with a 5 year warranty too. I spent the summer clearing some woods heavily loaded with oak and it performed flawlessly. The only downside is weight. The saw is just a little over 20 pounds so it can get tiring when using it for limbing.

Keith

Echo CS-590 sounds like a great saw for a great price, but this isn't completely about bang for the buck. It's also a reason for me to tinker, tweak, rebuild, search for parts, etc.

 

[bulletpruf]

I wouldn't consider any of the saws you have linked in your original post. They are old, meaning they lack safety features. None of them have a chainbrake or any effective anti-vibe. The 372 you mentioned is much newer and has all the safety features and it has a great power to weight ratio. I would also consider Echo, Solo, and Sachs Dolmar.

Thanks, I kind of figured out most of those were obsolete.

 

[bulletpruf]

If you won't be doing the major repairs yourself, keep in mind the availability of [Brand X] local dealers or small engine shops. Then choose the brand, then the saw.

Saw won't see the inside of a small engine shop. I will handle it all.

Thanks

 

[bulletpruf]

The $300 budget will be tough.

Seriously consider dolmar/makita 6400-7900. I've picked up a couple extra hd rental saws for under $100.

028wb in the background

The 7900 will reasonably pull a 32-36 inch Bar in hardwood.

Agreed on the $300 budget. It looks like I'll have to spend $400 for what I want.

Thanks

 

[bulletpruf]

You guys need to remember, the OP is in Italy.

The problem I see with the Husky, besides all the plastic, is it has zero lugging ability....it is pure ERPM. At least the Stihl can pull a chain with a slightly dull chain due to dirty wood.

What type of wood is in Italy? Hardwood or softwood?

Excellent points on the plastic and lugging ability (or lack thereof). Both are important to me.

I live in Italy now, but we're headed back to the states in 2018 (active duty military). I've got a few trees to take care of here, but it probably won't get a real good workout until we get back to the states.

 

[bulletpruf]

Based on experiences with a Husky 350 & 4 Stihl saws I would say go Stihl. 260, 460, 660 are all great saws. Husky was great high RPM saw when it ran, but it didn't do that very often past the first year of use. Stihl's are high torque and never had any repairs on any of them.

Thanks for the input. Firsthand knowledge is always helpful.

Scott

 

[bulletpruf]

I'll put in a comment that doesn't address any particular saw, but applies to all chain saws:

The performance of the saw is dependent on the design, quality, and condition of the chain used.

The best and most powerful saw can't perform well without a well-designed and properly sharpened chain. A dull chain will consume a tremendous amount of the power produced by the saw, resulting in poor cutting performance. The same can be said for the design and quality of the chain.

A "chipper" chain, with a rounded gullet, takes far more power to cut than a "chisel" chain. If the chisel chain isn't properly sharpened, it cuts like a chipper chain, with similar performance. The cutting angles and especially the sharp corner on the chisel chain must be maintained while sharpening. A chipper chain is more forgiving about sharpening technique, but can never match a chisel chain for production.

I use an 044 for bucking and an 026 for limbing and small diameter bucking. I normally use a 24" bar on the 044 (I have a 30" bar, too) and a 20" bar on the 026. I cut mostly Fir and Maple, but also some Oak. I find that with a properly sharpened chisel chain, the 026 can cut all but the Oak like butter. It cuts Oak well, but not nearly as well. the 044 cuts Oak well with the 24" bar.

I use the longer bar on the 026 so I don't have to bend over as much while limbing. Many of the professional loggers in the area use a 36" (or longer) bar on an 044/MS440/MS460 for limbing so they don't have to bend over at all. I'm not big enough, strong enough, or experienced enough to do that!

Back when saws were less powerful, it was common to use a semi-skip or skip-tooth chain to reduce the number of cutting teeth engaged in a deep cut. This required less power, but also was less aggressive in cutting performance. Since the saw did not have enough power to pull a full compliment of teeth, it did not really reduce cutting performance, and helped clear the chips from the deep cut. I have run a skip chain on the 026, but it is about a wash on performance compared to a full compliment chain.

Not everyone can sharpen a chisel chain properly, and this includes many saw shops. Many don't understand how important it is to keep the depth gauges at the proper height or keeping the cutters matched side-to-side. I was lucky enough to have several friends and neighbors that showed me how to do it, and was able to buy a used grinding machine at a good price.

Don't overlook maintainence on the bar, either. It needs to be straight, square, the groove proper width, and the end sprocket in good condition.

My point is that you can have the best saw in the world, but if the cutting parts are not in proper condition, it will not perform up to it's potential.

Thanks for the input. I hate cutting with a dull chain; try to have a few sharp spares on hand at all time for each saw.

Still have more to learn about chain sharpening, different types of chains, etc.