What can you tell me

[catch2otwo]

Was given this bandsaw today for free. Motor runs and all, but missing the table and probably some other stuff. Would like to know a model so I can start looking for parts. Thanks

 

[GTO]

Looks like an old Delta to me,but I don't know much about older band saws like that.
There has to be markings on it somewhere.
Good luck

 

[turbowoodworker]

It says Delta right on that sticker. Probably not that old (30yrs?) but in really abused and neglected shape.
Lots of info here:

http://wiki.vintagemachinery.org/DeltaSerialNumbers.ashx

 

[catch2otwo]

Ooops forgot to mention in the first post. Only marker on it is the badge says delta milwaukee. Ill look up the serial number on the site. I did some googling, looks like its a wood only saw unfortunately.

 

[Davefr]

Looks like a BS-880 from the mid 1940's.

Good luck, I see lots of parts missing.

 

[catch2otwo]

Going back to the lady i got it from tomorrow, she has the table and some other parts for it.

 

[pelletman]

Unless you find a bunch of the parts from the seller, you are probably better off looking for a complete used one for a couple hundred bucks

 

[rlitman]

Going back to the lady i got it from tomorrow, she has the table and some other parts for it.

EXCELLENT! The table can be hard to replace. Everything else is relatively easy.
Hopefully you've got the lower cover too.

You'll need tires. This is the cheapest and best source I have found:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00QMKC0EG/?tag=atomicindus08-20
You can spend twice as much on the SAME tires that say they fit your machine. My guess is that people who have old Delta machines are willing to spend the bucks to buy replacement parts, but people who have Ridgid machines, not so much?

You'll also need guide bearings. You'll want shielded (ZZ), and NOT sealed (RS), and believe it or not, cheaper bearings make better guide bearings than good ones, because you want them moving very freely.

IIRC, it uses 6200ZZ and 6201ZZ bearings as the guide rollers.

You're also missing the knobs for the covers. These can be hard to come by, and proper replacements are way overpriced, but you can make your own for not too much. A couple of years ago I came across the metal cutting version of this, and flipped it on CL after getting it running perfectly. To replace the missing knobs, I bought phenolic knobs with brass threaded inserts that matched the posts. The problem is that the cheap knobs do not have a through hole, so you either need to drill them (the original design, and what I did), or use a bunch of washers on each post so the threads do not bottom out.

If you want to drill them, what you do is find the drill bit that just fits inside the threads without damaging the threads, then drill out to locate the center. Then flip the knob, and using a bit that is larger than the threads, drill in, until you reach the brass insert, and then stop. Then touch up the hole with a countersink.

Search for a 3/8-16 Thread Phenolic Knob.
These can be made to fit, and look REALLY close to the original:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1-3-4-W-x-3-8-16-Thread-Phenolic-Fluted-Knob-/231496659114

Most likely you'll be able to save everything else off of there after removing the rust.