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Working with steel liner for the ceiling

dae06

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Jun 24, 2016
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S.E. Minnesota
My shed has trusses 8' on center (OC), I am thinking hanging 2"x4"'s spaced every 3' for nailers using joist hangers. My shed is 36' x 56' x 14' high. A couple of questions:

1). Are 16' pieces of liner too much to handle easily or should I order 84- 8' pieces?
2). Whatever I buy, should I add an inch or so to each piece of tin for overlap in case things aren't square to the world, so there will be no issues with gaps?

Or, is there a better way to lay the whole ceiling out???

Thanks for any suggestions.
 
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bullnerd

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Jersey
I used 16'-2" panels for my ceiling. For just the reason you mentioned, overlap.
My ceiling is only 10' high though, but the install should be the same.
You can see how I used a drywall lift like many others, in my build in my sig.
Also, came up with a simple way to find the joists without pre drilling.
I did it all by myself. The 16's can be handled, the lift makes it pretty simple.
 
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dae06

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S.E. Minnesota
Interesting!!

So make a grid out of metal studs. Less weight, but slightly higher cost.

I'll add one thing that I left out on purpose to get ideas and that is the fact that I have a ton of 2"x4"'s available that the tin pallets came on, so I've already paid for them and to return them would cost me a little since I don't have any trailer long enough to haul it myself.

But, I'll always have a use for 2 x 4's. :headscrat Interesting idea.....
 

Bluedodge

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Michigan (not the Detroit part)
I hung 16 foot pieces solo. It was a chore, but do-able. I only have 8' ceilings. Not sure if I could have done it on a higher ceiling without buying a HF drywall hoist (then selling it once done).
 

manwithtools

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Lebanon, TN
I don't know if you folks noticed, he has 14' foot high ceilings. Most drywall lifts max out at 12' or less. That's why I recommended a lift.

Also, at 36' x 56', there are a lot of pieces to put up. A couple helpers and a lift and it will go fast. A drywall lift and a couple helpers and it's going to be along day or three.
 
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Richard Cranium

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central Washington
Rent a lift, you will not be sorry.
Or if you have a friend who has scaffolding that you can borrow, But that would be a lot of work moving it all the time.
Again I say rent a lift.
 

4cyclic

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Sep 30, 2013
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104
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Grand Isle, Vt
Drywall lift extension will reach 14ft easy. Did mine with 20ft + pieces, no problem with one person. You'll need to build a simple cart to load and hoist each panel to the ceiling.
 
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psu927

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Mar 28, 2010
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121
If it is 35' wide why wouldn't you use 18's?

Yeah if its 35' wide and you are running purlins you would be better off getting 18' pieces of metal. Also you can ask for ceiling liner/seconds as the price is a lot cheaper and the only problem is the stuff is usually slightly thinner or has a slight paint defect.
 
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dae06

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S.E. Minnesota
Yeah if its 35' wide and you are running purlins you would be better off getting 18' pieces of metal. Also you can ask for ceiling liner/seconds as the price is a lot cheaper and the only problem is the stuff is usually slightly thinner or has a slight paint defect.

There you go, that's why I love this site.

Could I get by with Joists every 6' between the trusses that are 8' OC, If I ran the steel the short way (36' direction)?
 
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dae06

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S.E. Minnesota
There you go, that's why I love this site.

Could I get by with Joists every 6' between the trusses that are 8' OC, If I ran the steel the short way (36' direction)?

Correct me if I'm wrong, but after drawing this out, each 18' section of steel would only be attached by 8 screws. Probably not a good idea. :sad:

Disregard that last statement. I forgot to count the screws on each joist. This just may work.
 
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ishiboo

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Oshkosh, WI
Steel doesn't take much to support itself and the insulation above it. If that were me, I would hang a 2x6 parallel with the trusses right down the middle, held up like a suspended ceiling to the purlins above with wire. It does not need to be constrained side-to-side, though you may do that for an easier install. The scissor lift will come in handy for that. VERY minimal cost. You can use Gripples to make the process even easier.
 

galute

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Jun 28, 2010
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Bald Knob AR
My shed has trusses 8' on center (OC), I am thinking hanging 2"x4"'s spaced every 3' for nailers using joist hangers. My shed is 36' x 56' x 14' high. A couple of questions:

1). Are 16' pieces of liner too much to handle easily or should I order 84- 8' pieces?
2). Whatever I buy, should I add an inch or so to each piece of tin for overlap in case things aren't square to the world, so there will be no issues with gaps?

Or, is there a better way to lay the whole ceiling out???

Thanks for any suggestions.

Are you sure your ceiling is 36'x 56'? On my 30 x 50 building that is the outside dimension. Take off for the thickness of the walls and you should have plenty of overlap on your sheets using standard lengths.
 
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dae06

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Jun 24, 2016
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51
Location
S.E. Minnesota
Are you sure your ceiling is 36'x 56'? On my 30 x 50 building that is the outside dimension. Take off for the thickness of the walls and you should have plenty of overlap on your sheets using standard lengths.

Good point, you are probably right.
 

psu927

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Mar 28, 2010
Messages
121
Good point, you are probably right.

Proper way is 2X4's with joist hangers every 4' between your trusses. Metal attached with screws directly to the 2X4's. If your post are 6" the max you can subtract from a 36' building would be around 15". (6" for each post and 1 1/2" for the purlins front and back) so you could get 17' 6" metal (3" overlap) but it's easier just to get 18' and have a larger overlap (which is fine). each sheet of metal will get 4 screws per row, and I you do your 2X4's at 4' OC that is about 20-24 screws per sheet of metal. depending on how you lay it out.
 
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