How do I break a weld?

[jam022316]

How do I break a weld? - pics added

I have a trailer that has an old hitch connector welded to it that I would like to replace. It is welded on both sides. What tools do I use to break the welds to seperate it and then what do I use to grind the weld back down to level?

Any help you all could give would be much appreciated.

I'm starting to think I may be getting over my head. I was going to take off the current coupler and temporarily fasten the replacement coupler till I got it to a fabrication shop, but I don't see how I'm going to do it.

Here is the coupler I'm wanting to get rid of:

Here how it's attached to the plate on the A Frame:

I originally wanted to take it off and have something like this coupler welded on:

But it looks like I may have to do something more like this one:

Either way I don't mind, as long as it has the easy latch.

I have a grinder but not a welder. Would it hurt to use a combination of jb weld and a couple bolts with lock nuts to secure the new coupler and take it to a welder to have it welded, or would I be better off having a shop do the whole thing?

Sorry for the long read.

 

[krusty the clown]

i would cut along the welds with a 3" cutoff wheel then grind it down with a 4" grinder.

 

[Displaced Hokie]

A hand-held grinder can do both. A 4" will do (this is the size of the grinding wheel), and prices for a decent one start @ $30.

A cold chisel and hammer could also be used to split the two once you get a majority of the weld removed with the grinder.

If you have an air compressor, a "cut-off" tool would work too. It's like a mini grinder that can get into tighter areas.

 

[bugdust]

Post a pic...kind of hard to say without seeing it.

Imagining what it looks like I'd say use a cut off wheel to cut the connector next to the weld and then a cold chisel or similar to knock the connector off. Then, just use a 4" grinder to grind down the weld. You could also use a wash tip on your o/a torch and wash the connector off and then grind down the weld. You could use the cut-off wheel and cut into the weld...many ways. Try one or a combination of all.

 

[cwstevens92]

You need a 4" or bigger grinder for after you get the old hitch off. A cutting tourch would be the best thing to split the welds nad knock the old hitch off with a hammer. No cutting tourch? diegrinder with some good cut off wheels, split the weld then take an air hammer to it with a good chisel.

 

[speed bump]

Air Carbon Arcing FTW.

 

[nissan_crawler]

Yep, get the grinder. You can't break a weld (assuming it's done properly).

 

[srmofo]

dont buy cheap cut off wheels. I work with a guy who had one blow apart and stick half of it into his leg. Its a 3" scar.

 

[Torque1st]

I just use a 4" angle grinder to remove the weld material since I don't have an air arc anymore.

 

[jam022316]

Yep, get the grinder. You can't break a weld (assuming it's done properly).

This guy was a welder by trade, so I bet I'm going to have one hell of a time.

dont buy cheap cut off wheels. I work with a guy who had one blow apart and stick half of it into his leg. Its a 3" scar.

Just out of curiosity, what's considered cheap? I have never really bought them before. Any particular brands I should look for. Not really wanting to go to the ER!


Thank you everyone for your suggestions. I'm going to get you a pic sometime later this week so I can get some more help from you all. I LOVE THIS SITE!!!

 

[speed bump]

This guy was a welder by trade, so I bet I'm going to have one hell of a time.



Just out of curiosity, what's considered cheap? I have never really bought them before. Any particular brands I should look for. Not really wanting to go to the ER!


Thank you everyone for your suggestions. I'm going to get you a pic sometime later this week so I can get some more help from you all. I LOVE THIS SITE!!!

flexovit makes good ones and but they all explode if missused so unless its something special I just use the HF cheapies.

 

[jam022316]

I changed the title to pics added but must have not done it right! LOL

 

[Bigrhamr]

At this point I would say you might as well just take it to a fab shop and have them do the whole job. If I was doing that I'd allow about 30 minutes to whack the old hitch off and clean everything up. So if it has to go in to be welded anyway that's all you would be saving is a half hour of labor. I use cut wheels every day, they work great but frankly if you are not experienced with them they are dangerous. They can kick back, grab, fly apart and generally throw a bunch of **** back in your face. (eyes)

And JB weld is great stuff for the right application but on a trailer hitch, uh, No.
Not only would it not do you any good but when you take in in to a fab shop held together with JB weld you wouldn't want to be around to hear the stories the guys are telling about you later.

 

[cwstevens92]

Take it to a shop and have the whole thing done. That way you know it will be safe.

 

[arkangel06]

torch it off and grind it flush

 

[jam022316]

What do you guys guestimate at price to have that done if I bring in the coupler?

 

[cwstevens92]

Price will depend on the shop you take it to.
If you brought it to my shop, i'd charge about 75 bucks

 

[nissan_crawler]

Well, I see several issues.

1. Unless it's just out of the picture, you're too far away from a crossmember on the tongue. Currently, it's done fine with that (what looks like) 3/8" steel plate welded on. To replace the coupler, that would go, and allowing a regular coupler to take that load isn't right, IMHO, so you would have to weld in a crossmember behind it.

2. The hitch you want to install is crappier than the one that's on the trailer, so unless the guts are falling out or something, I'm not sure why you would want to change it.

3. God only knows if your tongue is at a standard angle for a coupler like that to go on.

4. If you are going to change it, I would recommend extending the tongue forward until it comes to a point about 3" across (easy enough to do), and installing an adjustable coupler like I have:

However if you have a car trailer or heavier (hard to tell), I would suggest using a bulldog style coupler on the adjustable hitch.

Bulldog style are these:

If it wasn't for the fact that my trailer already had the other style, I would have a bulldog on it. In fact, mine is getting worn, so it's time to go to a bulldog one or a gooseneck, I'm leaning towards gooseneck, so I've been holding off.

 

[fordcragar]

Bulldog style are these:

If it wasn't for the fact that my trailer already had the other style, I would have a bulldog on it. In fact, mine is getting worn, so it's time to go to a bulldog one or a gooseneck, I'm leaning towards gooseneck, so I've been holding off.

Just out of curiosity, why would you use the bulldog style?

I have to change the hitch on my car trailer, would this be a better candidate for my application, which is similar to, only worn out:

 

[nissan_crawler]

Just out of curiosity, why would you use the bulldog style?

I have to change the hitch on my car trailer, would this be a better candidate for my application, which is similar to, only worn out:

For one, it is much stronger. Look underneath at what latches on a normal coupler. It's fine under normal conditions, as you should have tongue weight anyway, but when things go wrong, they can let go.

Two, for wear. The stamped ones wear much quicker. You can literally split the top open when they get worn too far. I've seen it happen. That is why mine needs to be done, it's seeing a fair amount of wear.

 

[jam022316]

Man you guys are a wealth of knowledge!! Thank you all!! My main reason for wanting to change it is the current coupler is just a pain in the ***. It get's stuck a lot where I have to use some WD40 and/or a hammer to get it working, and then the constant turning to get it tight can be a pain.

This is just a little 4x8 trailer that was originally a harbor freight trailer that the guy beefed up a little. Considering there's a lot more fabrication needed then what I originally thought, this may be a bigger project then I have the tools/money for. LOL!

Now after taking in all your guys suggestions I don't know that it's worth it to even go through all the trouble. Decisions, decisions.

 

[nissan_crawler]

Man you guys are a wealth of knowledge!! Thank you all!! My main reason for wanting to change it is the current coupler is just a pain in the ***. It get's stuck a lot where I have to use some WD40 and/or a hammer to get it working, and then the constant turning to get it tight can be a pain.

This is just a little 4x8 trailer that was originally a harbor freight trailer that the guy beefed up a little. Considering there's a lot more fabrication needed then what I originally thought, this may be a bigger project then I have the tools/money for. LOL!

Now after taking in all your guys suggestions I don't know that it's worth it to even go through all the trouble. Decisions, decisions.

Oh, It looked bigger than that. For a 4x8, skip an adjustable coupler, and a stamped one would be fine for that weight.

 

[fordcragar]

For one, it is much stronger. Look underneath at what latches on a normal coupler. It's fine under normal conditions, as you should have tongue weight anyway, but when things go wrong, they can let go.

Two, for wear. The stamped ones wear much quicker. You can literally split the top open when they get worn too far. I've seen it happen. That is why mine needs to be done, it's seeing a fair amount of wear.

Thanks for the info. I've had this trailer for about twenty years and that is the coupler that was on it, when I bought it used. I've replaced the guts several times, but the whole coupler needs to be replaced; I'll replace it with the better one.

 

[vicious]

wash the weld off with a torch, grind off the remainig rough ****...if you can't or don't know what this is take it to a fab shop...price doubles if you need them to fix something you screwed up

good luck and concider the value of what you are putting on the trailer

 

[Stinger]

I'd drill out the 4 welds that hold the A frame plate to the trailer, then replace it when the new hitch went on...seems like WAY less work to get it removed.

 

[jam022316]

I'd drill out the 4 welds that hold the A frame plate to the trailer, then replace it when the new hitch went on...seems like WAY less work to get it removed.

I was thinking about doing that as well. Gotta get the garage done so I can pull this in and start working on it.

 

[nissan_crawler]

If that's only a 2,000# trailer, an if the tongue is at the right angle for that other style coupler, just grind the old one off, and drill/bolt the new one on. It won't hurt a thing.

 

[jam022316]

If that's only a 2,000# trailer, an if the tongue is at the right angle for that other style coupler, just grind the old one off, and drill/bolt the new one on. It won't hurt a thing.

I was thinking about just bolting the new one on with lock nuts and grade 8 bolts. Then I thought for extra piece of mind I may have it welded at some point.

 

[nissan_crawler]

I wouldn't worry about it, for that size of trailer. Hell, mine is only held on with 3 3/4" grade 8 bolts, and it's had thousands of miles on it.

Look at the hitch pin that holds your drawbar in the receiver, that's only 5/8". Bolt it down good, and you'll have zero issues.