Cheap Craigslist VCT - Should I go for it?

[Colin Len]

I've been slowly piecing my garage together and a recent CL score of some cabinetry has it looking a lot better than the 75yr old shanty it was when I bought the place. Now the flooring has started to bug me as it's in pretty rough shape. But... I don't want to spend a ton of money and don't have time to gut the garage, grind...etc for epoxy or any other coating like that (long term I'd love to do this, but that's at least 5yrs away).

So, I stumbled on some Armstrong VCT for cheap on CL. VCT, adhesive, maybe a couple tools and some consumables should be well under $150. I'm thinking at that price and what I assume to be a 2 day project this is a no brainer but figured I should check with the GJ I've done a good amount of research on VCT so I'm pretty aware of the pros/cons so my main concern is if I can just lay it down over my existing floor or if it would need any heavy prep.

Here's a shot of what the floor looks like now - 75 yrs of who knows what going on in here.



Very smooth concrete surface but lots of stains and paint splatter.





And many areas that have little chunks missing. (I realize now after looking at it, there's nothing for scale in this pic. But most of the small pits in the upper part of the picture are a half inch diameter, the big one in the bottom right is probably an inch or so wide and 3in long.)



Assuming I fill those cracks/chips/pits can I just clean it really well and lay the tile without any additional prep? If it requires any kind of grinding or anything I think that might be a deal breaker for my current situation. Any help is greatly appreciated - thanks!

 

[bubinga]

l don't know nothing about the floor, but those cabinets are looking nice.
especially that long blue one with the wood top.
Did the top come with it or did you add it?

 

[macgyver37]

My shop is an old grocery store and it has the vct in 2/3rds of it, I really like it. Two things though, I keep my welding and cutting in the back where it is bare concrete and it can get very slippery where it has been polished and I get wood dust/chips on it. I should strip and reseal, but probably not going to happen any time soon.

 

[Colin Len]

l don't know nothing about the floor, but those cabinets are looking nice.
especially that long blue one with the wood top.
Did the top come with it or did you add it?

Thank you! They were too good of a deal on CL so I did a quick, dirty, and cheap renovation to the garage based around them. I got uppers and lowers and then found some butcher block top tables on CL and used those for the top. It's far from perfect but for the price it couldn't be beat! I need to make some updates since I've been working on the garage for almost 3yrs but only started the thread recently... but here's my garage's thread so you can see what these replaced: http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=346824

My shop is an old grocery store and it has the vct in 2/3rds of it, I really like it. Two things though, I keep my welding and cutting in the back where it is bare concrete and it can get very slippery where it has been polished and I get wood dust/chips on it. I should strip and reseal, but probably not going to happen any time soon.

I don't do much welding but that's definitely something to keep in mind, same goes for the wood chips and water. My other, and probably primary, concern is tires. The car that gets stored in the garage is a track car with sticky tires. So I think there could be some staining issues over time and I've heard that if you lower a car down off jack stands the tires can cause the tiles to lift. I'm hoping these won't be huge issues but am pretty sure the workarounds for them aren't severe enough to be a deal breaker considering the cost of these tiles.

 

[macgyver37]

I have been pretty abusive to my floor with the forklift, sliding pallets and playing with cars/trucks. I am not worried about keeping it really nice and it does show. I have dropped a couple things that have dented a tile and it is no a big deal, like you said, they are cheap and not hard to replace. I really like that it sweeps easy, and it makes the shop brighter as my tiles are mostly white.

I think if you actually seal it, you won't have to worry about staining. Worst case if the car doesn't move for an extended period of time, put some cardboard pcs under the tires.

 

[EOC_Jason]

VCT once layed down is about as durable as you're going to get. Since the color is all the way through even scratches aren't a huge deal. Yes they will collect dirt but once you strip it and re-seal then no big deal...

If it get really really bad, rent a buffer and get a black stripping pad and go to town. I've seen VCT that we thought we were going to have to rip up come back to very decent shape.

We always just used the Zep's stripper, sealer, and wax... Good stuff...

 

[Colin Len]

Thanks guys, that pretty much confirms my prior research. I guess I need to make it more clear that my main question is whether I'll have adhesion issues due to the condition of my floor. Can I just clean it and install? No need for additional prep?

 

[The Cobbler]

I would prep the spots or they will telegraph through the tile . use a cementitious floor prep designed for below grade and patch the spots . scrape off any blobs of **** on the surface . use the recommended trowel for the glue and follow the glue directions.

 

[EOC_Jason]

^^^ What he said... Maybe also go over it a couple times with some sort of degreaser just to be safe. But usually once you glue it down, it's on there pretty darn good.

I forget how long you are supposed to wait before putting any sealer / wax on the floor, but you have to wait a few days for the glue to dry.

 

[krcoomer]

I would prep the spots or they will telegraph through the tile . use a cementitious floor prep designed for below grade and patch the spots . scrape off any blobs of **** on the surface . use the recommended trowel for the glue and follow the glue directions.

I have replaced a lot of VCT in rentals and for a commercial client. I second The Cobbler's advice. My only concern would be adhesion over oily spots. I would grind out and clean out before using a repair mortar to fill holes and cracks. Any crack in your slab will telegraph and you may find yourself repairing or replacing tiles over a true crack but it should be a durable floor. Make sure you let the adhesive dry to the right amount of tack before you start laying tiles and roll it out with the heaviest roller you can get your hands on.

 

[Colin Len]

I would prep the spots or they will telegraph through the tile . use a cementitious floor prep designed for below grade and patch the spots . scrape off any blobs of **** on the surface . use the recommended trowel for the glue and follow the glue directions.

Thanks. I've been reading that VCT will telegraph as you mention so filling those holes is definitely something I would do - especially because it'd be relatively easy I think.

^^^ What he said... Maybe also go over it a couple times with some sort of degreaser just to be safe. But usually once you glue it down, it's on there pretty darn good.

I forget how long you are supposed to wait before putting any sealer / wax on the floor, but you have to wait a few days for the glue to dry.

I was wondering about degreaser, but I assume you just need to be sure to get it all OFF as well. I do have access to a pressure washer (electric homeowner grade) so perhaps that would be helpful.

I have replaced a lot of VCT in rentals and for a commercial client. I second The Cobbler's advice. My only concern would be adhesion over oily spots. I would grind out and clean out before using a repair mortar to fill holes and cracks. Any crack in your slab will telegraph and you may find yourself repairing or replacing tiles over a true crack but it should be a durable floor. Make sure you let the adhesive dry to the right amount of tack before you start laying tiles and roll it out with the heaviest roller you can get your hands on.

Thanks. I don't think I have any cracks in the slap (but I will check) it's mainly those holes - which I think should be easy to fill. The rest of the floor is VERY smooth. If it weren't for the stains and holes it'd have a very nice surface).

How worried should I be about the oily spots? Most of the oil should be very, very old I think. A little maybe from me over the past couple years but prior to that I think it may have been a decade or more since someone was using it as an automotive garage.

 

[EOC_Jason]

How worried should I be about the oily spots? Most of the oil should be very, very old I think. A little maybe from me over the past couple years but prior to that I think it may have been a decade or more since someone was using it as an automotive garage.

I don't think it will be a huge deal. If you can pressure wash it since you said you had one that would probably get whatever out that will come out. Make sure the concrete is good and dry before starting your work. Also check to see what temps you will need for the glue (usually the warmer the better), you might have to use a space heater overnight to heat up your garage before you start.

 

[Todd.Brock]

I have thought about VCT but worry about hot tire pick up. My daily driver 2 car could use an upgrade and I am not a huge fan of epoxy and porcelain is a lot of work. For the price- i wouldn't think twice and the fact it's a race car- let it cool off before you pull it in and park it on some carpet squares. Use a piece of plywood for jack stands. Show some picks when it's done!

 

[EOC_Jason]

I never had it come up, but it does show tire tread easy...

 

[Colin Len]

I don't think it will be a huge deal. If you can pressure wash it since you said you had one that would probably get whatever out that will come out. Make sure the concrete is good and dry before starting your work. Also check to see what temps you will need for the glue (usually the warmer the better), you might have to use a space heater overnight to heat up your garage before you start.

I never had it come up, but it does show tire tread easy...

Yeah, I figured weather would be a factor in both drying things out and an ideal temp for the glue. Luckily I'm in Southern California so the weather isn't all that extreme. Of course recently we have been getting more frequent rain than is typical and it's also been unseasonably cold (which is still only 50's/60's during the day and low/mid 40's at the coldest.

Stains from tires is another concern of mine. I want a lightish color for the floor because I like the look, it'd be easier to find things I drop, and it adds reflectivity which I definitely need. But obviously the lighter colors will stain more quickly and show stains more. I'm currently debating whether I should just go with a medium/light color and try to use something under the tires when possible or if I should actually use a pattern with light/dark tiles and/or use a darker color where the car will be parked. I personally don't mind much if the area under the car is a different color but I can see how that's a very specific design and if I sold the house might not be something the next owner would want. But I'm not sure which factor I care more about.

I have thought about VCT but worry about hot tire pick up. My daily driver 2 car could use an upgrade and I am not a huge fan of epoxy and porcelain is a lot of work. For the price- i wouldn't think twice and the fact it's a race car- let it cool off before you pull it in and park it on some carpet squares. Use a piece of plywood for jack stands. Show some picks when it's done!

Yup, that's pretty much what I was thinking. I was more worried about lowering the car off jack stands and shifting or lifting tiles due to lots of camber and sticky tires. But I'll just have to see how that works out. Perhaps using spare tiles under the tires when I lower the car - I'm assuming the tiles will slide easily on each other. Or maybe carpet squares, cardbord, hardboard or something like that.