Steel arch Like or dislike?

[Gunn1]

I am out in the country and have no Building covenants to observe, so Considering a steel arch as my next building. will be using for a garage/workshop. It will be insulated/so heated in the winter months. this system Seems to be the most bang for the buck. Size, usable space once up, snow load, clear span, ease of installation, ect. What am I missing?

Their must be draw backs or you think you would see more of them. Anyone have personal experience with this type of building system, good or bad.

Thanks

 

[bczygan]

Your location?

 

[North Run Grader]

The most effective insulation for a steel arch building is spray foam. Depending on location and population its usually the most expensive. Then the issue of how to protect the insulation from sparks, etc. Then you have the curve of the walls, you lose 80% of your wall space unless you frame some straight walls, then you lose floor space. From a storage point yes, none cheaper, from an all weather all purpose use, you will spent way more money on the inside then most other buildings. Its like life, you pay now, or pay later.

 

[Gunn1]

The Location is just south of St. Cloud MN.

The Insulating and protecting it are valid Points. I was intending on putting up some sort of wall to protect it from sparks, also allowing it to be cleaned. But would probably have to do that in any building. I apologize should have explained the shape, The building shape below is what I was considering (although bigger) so I'm thinking there would be no more space wasted than a traditional building foot print. Maybe less wasted space in the top of the building because of no trusses in the way.

Are there any GJ Members out there that have a building simular that can share their experiences?

 

[Bronson]

Use the Search feature, there are numerous threads on these buildings here.

 

[73RR]

I have a 45x102 type 'S' structural steel arch building. My particular building has 8' straight side walls before the curve starts. (NorthRunGrader is most likely thinking of a type 'Q' building...quonset....) My particular building is a Steelmaster
I think that most of the steel arch buildings probably come out of the same rolling mills since they all look alike.
I have 19' clearance at the peak.
I erected the entire building by myself. Yes, I am retired and have plenty of free time but it only took a few weeks once the slab was finished.
My building is entirely spray-foamed....about 4" average thickness.
To protect the foam and the wall itself, I attached some 2x4 framing to the floor and also to the metal with some 16g clips and covered the framing with ¾" sheathing.
I do not have any photos on photobucket but will be happy to send some to your email if you want to see any.

Bottom line, for me:
•The building is exceptionally tight, little or no air infiltration except for the 16x12 OHD or man door. I have 2-roof exhausters, 1725cfm each, and when they are running it is difficult to open the man door (swings out).
•The building is quiet.
•Our local weather hasn't been above 20° for the last week or two, currently snowing with about 18" or so on the ground. Inside temp is staying at about 40°...no heater.

I'll be happy to answer any related questions.

 

[coljar]

I know a fella up the road from me that bought one already built, but it had a 4 ft. concrete knee wall around it. He told me he was glad he got a great deal on it because he would never build one. His has a second floor built in part of it, but he cited wasted space and difficulty insulating it as two of the many things he had against it. He said if it was spray foamed, which the quote was very expensive, he wanted to finish the walls and ceiling, not an easy task with the curvature of the ceiling.

 

[73RR]

, he wanted to finish the walls and ceiling, not an easy task with the curvature of the ceiling.

All depends on the actual size and shape of the building. I was able to easily attach ½" osb to the 'roof' when I built my office/store-room.
OSB deflects pretty easily.

 

[Gunn1]

Not planning on adding any additional rooms/storage in Peak of building. Even if I did have a few issues regarding the inside bits, I would think if I erect the building myself the cost savings would more than make up for the minor costs encountered by insulating and installing an "Inner" wall.

I really Like 73RR Comments

"•The building is exceptionally tight, little or no air infiltration except for the 16x12 OHD or man door. I have 2-roof exhausters, 1725cfm each, and when they are running it is difficult to open the man door (swings out).
•The building is quiet.
•Our local weather hasn't been above 20° for the last week or two, currently snowing with about 18" or so on the ground. Inside temp is staying at about 40°...no heater."

Being I plan on keeping the building warm all winter and want it to be as efficient as possible.

 

[49tandc]

I have had a 40 X 54 X 16 Quonset hut for over 20 yrs. In FL, the wind load factor was most important to me (hurricanes and all...). I do lose a little floor space on the side, and it limits where I could put a lift. I still love the clear span and height of it If I did it over again, I'd just put up a 6 ft cement wall instead of footers. That would give me full use of the sides, could have a lift anywhere and not add too much to the budget instead of plain footers. I like mine a lot - Put it up with the help of my 3 boys - 14 & 12 at the time.

49T&C

 

[coljar]

All depends on the actual size and shape of the building. I was able to easily attach ½" osb to the 'roof' when I built my office/store-room.
OSB deflects pretty easily.

I'll get a picture of it on my next day off and it will also show the OP the way it's constructed with the knee wall, which does give you more room down the sides.

 

[bczygan]

Your zoning?

 

[matt_i]

I would get some "rough quotes" (meaning non-binding verbal ballpark estimate) for the spray foam before you start. That way you will have the total cost of the building in mind.

Just putting that part off until later up and thinking its going to be $1-2k to insulate is probably not a very good assumption in my opinion.

For MN I would want to make sure they had some design spec to address the potential snow load in your area.

Also, you have to have some system to get the foundation below the 100yr frost-line or else google-research "frost protected shallow foundation" and make sure your building enforcement is on board with that type of plan.

 

[readhead]

Matt has a good point. A few years back we worked on a million dollar retrofit for the Silverton school gym. The gym had very little insulation in the roof and in an effort to reduce heating costs it was decided to bring the roof insulation up to date. This building is at 9200 feet. Luckily the EOR noticed the added insulation and did an analysis of the structure and found that it would not support the load because the snow would not melt. Previously because there was no insulation the snow would melt and run off.

About ten years ago a Quonset style building collapsed because it was vacant and unheated and nobody removed the snow. I guess my point is that snow load is critical with these buildings. And insulation can affect the roof load.

 

[taget]

I just built my steel arch building this summer. I did the spray foam insulation and so far hearing has been pretty easy. Depending on the temps I'm about 1 bag of wood pellets a day. The biggest drawback I have found is mounting anything to the walls. Had I thought about it, I would have mounted 2x4 runners before they spray foamed. But all in all I am happy with the building. As for snow load, I live 5 miles from Lake Superior in Marquette Michigan. The snow does not melt on the building, but the wind clears the snow as it has a hard time sticking. The most I have had stick is 10 inches, and it was gone in a few days.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[jgorm]

Spray foam is crazy expensive. Last I looked it was about $1 for 12"x12"x1".

 

[JDMopar]

Since you're located in MN, be sure to check the snow loading for one of those. It may be a given to have plenty of snow load in your part of the country, but a guy who lives a few miles from me had his Quonset hut garage mashed into the dirt by a heavy snow here a few years ago. Just something to check on before investing.

 

[Gunn1]

Zoning is farming/Agricultural. All very good suggestions which I will follow up on. Most of the manufacturers state in their capacities section that the building will come with stamped approved for the snow load in the area it is being shipped to. Also look into the frost footing issue. I am interested in saving money but also want the building done correctly.

Thanks for all the help

 

[taget]

My drawings had a design load of 85 lbs for snow. I have what steelmaster refers to as the X model, so no vertical walls.

 

[txvwnut]

I've got one and the only drawback is all the bolts you have to tighten. You assemble the arches hand tight on the ground then tip them into place adjust fit then spend a day tightening bolts. Interior wall setup takes some ingenuity but it can be done so as no to loose floor space. Within one day you can have two walls and finished roof which no other type of construction gives. I insulated mine with foam board and I'm using v-crimp roof metal and T-111 siding for my interior walls downstairs and haven't quite come to a complete decision for the upstairs but it's looking like beadboard paneling.

 

[73RR]

I've got one and the only drawback is all the bolts you have to tighten. You assemble the arches hand tight on the ground then tip them into place adjust fit then spend a day tightening bolts. .

I had a real chore erecting the first two 'rings' as assembled units, even had one twist/collapse while attempting to raise it. I resorted to erecting some 'gin' poles at the edge of the slab to tie the initial segments to.
After getting the first two up and stable I put up the remaining segments one piece (2' x 9') at a time.
I had something like 15,000 nuts/bolts in my building...went through two impact drivers. I am sure that the rattling could be heard for miles...

 

[MJBlackburn]

My drawings had a design load of 85 lbs for snow. I have what steelmaster refers to as the X model, so no vertical walls.

Old thread - Check
Do you still have the drawings?
I have a building and no drawings.....