Calling all Bendpak HD-9 Owners - A few questions

[DerStig]

Hi Guys,

I have a huge favor to ask. Those of you who own this particular lift, can you please measure/check the following for me:

* Are the columns 5"x5"?
* Is the distance between columns 99 1/4" (or 89 1/4" if its the shorter version)?
* What is the size of the base plate?
* Is the space between the column and the edge of the base plate are 2.5" on the sides and 5" in front? Is the back completely flush or is there an extra space?
* What's the height and width of the piece that sits between the column and the base platform. This is the L shaped piece.
* Is the column height 88" flush? Are there any bolts or anything else sticking from the top of the columns?

I am asking these simply because I have a unique situation where my ceilings are very low and the way my garage is, there is barely 1" of clearance between the posts and the garage door tracks. I was going to go with Bendpak's dimensions that they display on their site, but looking at the pictures online, I noticed that the back of the column isnt flush with the baseplate whereas on their website, it looks even. That's worrying me, because if the distance between the two posts (inner distance) is actually less than 99 1/2", this wont fit.

I called bendpak and the response I got was "sales people only know what's on those sheets, they dont want us in the warehouse opening the packages". They also said the numbers are "approximate" which is worrying.

One other question I had was, just to confirm my math is correct, the minimum ceiling height to lift the posts is calculated as = the length of the post (88") ^ 2 + width of the longest section of the baseplate (10") ^ 2 = x ^ 2 and solve for x gives you 88.56". My ceiling is only 90". I am guessing this will fit barely? I am also assuming the crossbars between columns can be inserted while both posts are on the ground (rather than using a forklift like the manual states) and you can just lift both columns together?

Lastly, I am not going to bolt the unit down, is that okay?

I appreciate your help

 

[ndm]

Hi Guys,

I have a huge favor to ask. Those of you who own this particular lift, can you please measure/check the following for me:

* Are the columns 5"x5"?
* Is the distance between columns 99 1/4" (or 89 1/4" if its the shorter version)?
* What is the size of the base plate?
* Is the space between the column and the edge of the base plate are 2.5" on the sides and 5" in front? Is the back completely flush or is there an extra space?
* What's the height and width of the piece that sits between the column and the base platform. This is the L shaped piece.
* Is the column height 88" flush? Are there any bolts or anything else sticking from the top of the columns?

I am asking these simply because I have a unique situation where my ceilings are very low and the way my garage is, there is barely 1" of clearance between the posts and the garage door tracks. I was going to go with Bendpak's dimensions that they display on their site, but looking at the pictures online, I noticed that the back of the column isnt flush with the baseplate whereas on their website, it looks even. That's worrying me, because if the distance between the two posts (inner distance) is actually less than 99 1/2", this wont fit.

I called bendpak and the response I got was "sales people only know what's on those sheets, they dont want us in the warehouse opening the packages". They also said the numbers are "approximate" which is worrying.

One other question I had was, just to confirm my math is correct, the minimum ceiling height to lift the posts is calculated as = the length of the post (88") ^ 2 + width of the longest section of the baseplate (10") ^ 2 = x ^ 2 and solve for x gives you 88.56". My ceiling is only 90". I am guessing this will fit barely? I am also assuming the crossbars between columns can be inserted while both posts are on the ground (rather than using a forklift like the manual states) and you can just lift both columns together?

Lastly, I am not going to bolt the unit down, is that okay?

I appreciate your help

I cannot help but ask you this question so dont get mad. What exactly will you be storing on the lift? That ceiling is pretty darn low so you wont have much lift height at all. Hope it is a corvette or something because with my 1976 buick, it is 48 in tall if I recall. So add the 4.5 inch height of the ramps and you get 52.5 inch. You will have 36 inch max under this particular car.

 

[DerStig]

I cannot help but ask you this question so dont get mad. What exactly will you be storing on the lift? That ceiling is pretty darn low so you wont have much lift height at all. Hope it is a corvette or something because with my 1976 buick, it is 48 in tall if I recall. So add the 4.5 inch height of the ramps and you get 52.5 inch. You will have 36 inch max given this particular car.

I wont get mad

It will be a 911 or a shelby. I get around 38-40" distance between ground and the underneath the car which is good enough for me when sitting down on my creeper.

I have no other choice, I looked at every single lift I could find and there is nothing else that feels as safe. I dont want to deal with maxjax and drilling 10 holes, plus its a 2 post. I want something safe and worry free.

 

[Z2V]

I have the HD-9, the column is flush with the base plate. Back to back, left to right that is.
On the column height, the locking bars and the cable shackles go thru the top of the column so you will have at least a couple inches more. Yes you can put the cross bars on the columns on the ground and raise them together. I bolted a 2X8 across the tops of the columns and raised them by myself.
I hope this helps.

 

[DerStig]

I have the HD-9, the column is flush with the base plate. Back to back, left to right that is.
On the column height, the locking bars and the cable shackles go thru the top of the column so you will have at least a couple inches more. Yes you can put the cross bars on the columns on the ground and raise them together. I bolted a 2X8 across the tops of the columns and raised them by myself.
I hope this helps.

Do you mind measuring the height of the column exactly to the floor as well as the additional height for the bolts sticking out? I really appreciate it.

Is there anyway to not have those bolts stick out that much, maybe only a few threads instead of several? Would the integrity of the system be compromised?

My ceiling is exactly 89 3/4" in one area and 91" in others

 

[ducatithunder]

You need atleast 1 inch of threads above the column. I took out my door opener and readjusted the door track for roof pitch. I have a vaulted beam ceiling in garage so the lowest point of the roof is ~104".

I stacked my cobra on top and the 911 on the bottom.

 

[ducatithunder]

Couldnt load the pic from my phone. The bottom pic is what I started with.

 

[ducatithunder]

I used all the dimensions from Bendpak when I did my measurements. They were spot on.

If you have a cobra then you will be stuck using the wide setting. If you are thinking about getting the narrow version it will not work. I only say this becasue I thought about getting the narrow version until a tech at Best Buy Auto asked me. Measure your wheel track to make sure your car will fit on the ramps. Both the cobra my rsr build are ~78" wide at tire track.

 

[Z2V]

The bolts for the lock stop will depend on how level the floor is. I have one just a couple threads out of the nut. Another is almost two inches. Could you just poke holes in ceiling to accommodate the bolts?
I can't measure anything for you until tomorrow, I had my knee replaced yesterday so I'm in hospital until noon tomorrow
There is a company in Mansfield Tx called Worth Equipment. They make the lifts to order and can make minor modifications if need be. They are considerably more expensive though.
I have ceiling problems also but in my case an inch was good as a foot!

 

[DerStig]

Thanks for responses. So it looks like I will be going with the wide version and I can trust the measurements in bendpak's site. Now the problem is, their user manual cites the width between the columns (outer to outer) is 117" whereas the product page and other documents say that distance is 110". Not sure which is true.

But either way, it will fit. Wider is good for me, narrower isnt. An inch less than 109" and it wont fit.

The only unknown I have which is making me scratch my head is the bolts. I didnt account for them. So is the height of the column 88" plus 1" for the bolt and another 1/2" for the nut or is it all together 88"?

Two of the posts will be under a 91" ceiling, but the other two will be under 89 3/4".

Also using pythagorean theorem, the ceiling height has to be slightly more than the total height as you are raising the lift.

Is it possible to slide the ladders in BEFORE raising the lift, let them rest on the column (so the bolt doesnt stick out) and when the columns are upright then raise the ladders to the proper height? That way it clears literally by 1/4"? Otherwise using the pythagorean theorem to raise a 89.5 lift with a 10"x10" base, I need a height of 90.5 which I dont have for 2 of the posts.

Also what's wrong with lowering the ladders very close to the ground, say maybe 1/4" off the base? The lower the better for me because I cannot leverage the full height of the lift, lower the ladder the more safety locks I ll get to work with.

I appreciate the help very much

 

[Z2V]

The locks on BendPac are spaced 4". You don't hit the first one going up until 18 inches or so.

 

[thickhead]

...Could you just poke holes in ceiling to accommodate the bolts?

I was thinking the same thing.
Cut a 15" hole above each post and screw a salad bowl over the hole....upside down of course.

 

[DerStig]

The locks on BendPac are spaced 4". You don't hit the first one going up until 18 inches or so.

Strange, I thought the first locking point was at 24" and its 4" thereafter. If its 18", thats great but can you confirm?

Also, if I lived alone, I would have no issue cutting the ceiling in fact I would destroy the entire upstairs rooms and turn my garage into a man cave. But I live with this other person called my wife who even now is extremely unhappy with the idea of this lift standing in the way of everything if I cut a hole like that, she would just torch my cars and wont allow me in the house.

Whats important is whether or not while you are lifting the columns to their upright position the ladder and the bolt sticks out or are they hidden inside the columns flush and you later on raise them. If I raise them later (same goes for the other bolt), then its no problem I guess.

Would be great if someone can confirm the following:

- The total true height of the column and the total height of the bolt sticking from the column. When you guys say 1" is sticking out, does that include the nut or is it nut and bolt together 1".
- How high does the ladder sit from the ground? If I could lower it to the point only 1/8" of the threads sticking out AFTER the nut is fully tightened, that would be awesome.
- Does the ladder and the bolt on it come in one piece as a welded assembly or do you screw in the bolt to the ladder?

Also out of curiosity, the ramps on this lift would clear something as low as a GT3?

 

[ducatithunder]

Below ... in red.

- How high does the ladder sit from the ground? If I could lower it to the point only 1/8" of the threads sticking out AFTER the nut is fully tightened, that would be awesome. Yes. I have mine set @ 3/4" off the base. You do not want this sitting on the base plate. I think most people keep it @ ~1/2". The whole idea is to have the ladder in hanging tension and not bottomed out as the ladder isnt designed to support the load that way. IT would bow and then youd have permanent damage to the ladder. You adjust the top nut to level the ramps so when its on the locks it level. I suppose you could cut them too but I wouldnt recommend it. The manual states to have atleast 1" of exposed threads on top of the not.


- Does the ladder and the bolt on it come in one piece as a welded assembly or do you screw in the bolt to the ladder?Yes. ITs a threaded rod welded to the ladder. There is a spacer on the bottom to keep the spacing correct.

Also out of curiosity, the ramps on this lift would clear something as low as a GT3? My cobra has about 4 1/2" ground clearance. I have to pull the car up on 2x6s before the ramps. I have the steal ramps and not the aluminum ones.

 

[Z2V]

You can stand the post up without the ladder. Leave the whole top plate off while standing the post up. Then install the ladder then put the top plate on. This will get you a little more clearance while standing them up.
Have you looked at the install manual online?

 

[DerStig]

Below ... in red.

Thank you for your response.

- First of all, considering the height of the runways from the ground is 4 1/2", how can there be clearance issues with the ramps if the car has 4 1/2" of front clearance (unless you are talking about side clearance which would mean your front clearance is a lot less). Technically, if the platform is 4.5", the car should be able to drive on even without ramps if the front clearance is a tad more than 4.5", no?

- I will probably keep the ladder 1/4" off the ground. Do you see any issues with that?

- Can you or someone else confirm the column height itself with the cap on is 88" and that you have 1.5" (1" thread plus 0.5" nut) further height on top? I would really appreciate this.

- What difference does the height of the other bolt play, the one that controls the cables? In other words, is it purely for safety reasons they want you to keep 1" threads or does the higher thread mean the cable tension is now higher and there is no slack? I am asking because I dont want to be in a case where I find out my cable is slacking more and instead of 1", I need to keep 2" of threads. That would be very bad

As for the ladders sliding in, I thought the only way to slide them was through the top because they have these brackets that they slide through and you cannot get them in using the front of the column? Was I wrong with that assumption?

The ramps are confusing to me though, I still dont understand how there can be clearance issues when the platform is only 4.5" high and the ramps are 36" long. That should be able to accommodate as low as 3" of clearance?

 

[jcthorne]

The Bendpak ramps would not accommodate my vette due to the long front overhang and splitter. Race Ramps makes structural foam ramps that fit the Bendpak and are longer. Also MUCH easier to handle as they are far lighter than the steel ones.

 

[Z2V]

I also went with the longer Race Ramps in the longer length and a lot less weight. Either of my Cadillacs would drag slightly with the factory but no problem with RR.
As long as the ladder is not touching the floor I don't think clearance there matters much but they MUST be clear of floor. You will use the ladder bolts to level the runways so they might all be at slightly different lengths above the top plate.
The column height includes top cap. You need not worry about the nut as the bolt goes thru the nut. I'm not at home to verify but I don't recall any discrepancies with any measurements.
The cable shackle nuts are used to tension the cables and will likely all be slightly different but not by much. A full nut is an absolute, anything more is just a difference in stretch of the cable when you tension them. You might have to readjust periodically.
As for the ladders you won't have any problem putting them in after the columns are stood up.
It sounds like you are cutting it awfully close in clearance. If you have to poke a hole in the ceiling to clear the bolts, well, .
I suppose you could cut the top off the bolts after you tension cables and level the ramps then you could patch the holes......

 

[Z2V]

The column is 88" from bottom of base plate to top of top plate, overall.

 

[ducatithunder]

Thank you for your response.

- First of all, considering the height of the runways from the ground is 4 1/2", how can there be clearance issues with the ramps if the car has 4 1/2" of front clearance (unless you are talking about side clearance which would mean your front clearance is a lot less). Technically, if the platform is 4.5", the car should be able to drive on even without ramps if the front clearance is a tad more than 4.5", no?

The oil cooler clears but once you get to the oil pan and bell housing will just catch the cross bar. The oil pan is a smidge lower then the cooler and front nose. The rear wheel dont hit the ramp yet at that point so I need boards to clear the bar. I have issues with large speed bumps and such. The car isnt overly low its just stuff that hangs low in the middle of the wheel base.

 

[thickhead]

- Can you or someone else confirm the column height itself with the cap on is 88" and that you have 1.5" (1" thread plus 0.5" nut) further height on top? I would really appreciate this.

Just measured mine at 88" to top of top plate and 1.5" - 2.5" of thread and nut above the 88 inches depending on which post I measure.

The threaded ends vary in order to keep the ladders level and the cables adjusted.

 

[DerStig]

The column is 88" from bottom of base plate to top of top plate, overall.

Thanks, I really appreciate it.

Would you say the tallest of the bolts add another 1.5" to the column (including the nut?

Also, is the first safety catch at 18" from the floor (underneath the runways)?

Thanks again.

 

[DerStig]

Just measured mine at 88" to top of top plate and 1.5" - 2.5" of thread and nut above the 88 inches depending on which post I measure.

The threaded ends vary in order to keep the ladders level and the cables adjusted.

Oh wow, 2.5"! Thats a lot. Thanks though. I appreciate it.

Just out of curiosity, how level is your floor?

In my case my ceiling is 91" for two of the posts and 90" in the other side. So 1" of difference. I m guessing ladder will be 1" higher in one side?

Also, you could use the shims provided as well?

 

[bobabuee]

you have 6 "to 8" above finished ceiling cutting a hole into ceiling would not affect the upper room above the garage. the bolt on top of the post, one is for ladder height wich is longer one shorter one is for cable ladder height one id dependent on what takes to level your lift ladders on all four corners min 1/2 from base plates.

do you self-favor download the bend-pak installation manual read it cover to cover before ordering the lift. also the columns can be put completely together on ground with cross bar then raised as complete unit without top plates ladders installed ladder the just drop in

youtube is your friend look at the videos many on bend-pak lifts. the hardest thing about the whole thing is runways they are friggen heavy. get you self 4 good saw horses and engine crane straps chain and it really 2 man job but i did it myself actually i done 2 of them

 

[WhoWhatNow]

Couldnt load the pic from my phone. The bottom pic is what I started with.

It looks like your lift is almost completely up against the wall on one side. Is there enough space to do any service on that side? I'm thinking brakes and suspension work. Thx.

 

[DerStig]

Well with all things considered:

- Ceiling height of 89 3/4"
- Column height of 88"
- Bolt sticking out 1.5" at the most including nut
- Ladder can be inserted from the side while the column is upright
- A simple wrench is sufficient to tighten the bolt, there is no specific ft/lb figure so no need to use a deep socket wrench

I shouldnt have any problems with this?

As far as the height and how much room I will have for suspension work. Shelby has a height of 54" (including tires) and the undercarriage clearance is 5". That means I will have 36" + 5" of headroom under the car to work with. I think thats enough for me to be sitting down on a creeper and sliding in an out.

I understand its not ideal but my thinking process was as follows:

- I can either buy a quickjack which is really not very secure and looks flimsy (compared to this)
- Or buy a mid rise scissor (but price is so high for what you get and the max lift will not be as high)
- Or I could buy maxjax (but then again, 2 post lift plus bolts plus god knows how good my concrete is)

I went through all the different options and the HD9 is the safest and also the most convenient option out there. No adjustments, no fear, very little room to make a mistake and frankly you could put a sleeping bag under the car and sleep without worrying.

I will most likely be able to utilize only 3 safety locks maybe 4 but I'm still not sure whether the measurements bendpak gives on their site for lock heights assumes the ladder to be hanging 1" from the floor or more or less.

 

[DerStig]

I have one last yet difficult question to ask:

- Looking at the "will it fit" guide at bendpak's side http://www.bendpak.com/HD-9 Series Clearance Heights.pdf, is there a way to know what distance between the ladder and the baseplate do those safety lock heights is based upon? In other words, do they assume 1" from ground when it says "min" 18.4 for first position?

Could someone measure the distance between the ground and underneath the runways (so excluding the 4.5" runway height) and also subsequently measure how high your ladders sit from the baseplate? This would be super helpful for me I really appreciate it.

 

[joel]

My lift came with optional 4' long aluminum ramps. The stock ride height 2015 Z06 Corvette with factory stage 3 spoilers clears fine.

 

[DerStig]

Sorry for bumping this but I really one last help from one of the owners.

Can you measure the distance between the ladder and the baseplate and also exactly how far the runway is when the first safety lock is engaged.

Thank you

 

[thickhead]

Gap between the baseplate and bottom of ladder on mine varies from approx. 1/2" to 1 1/2". Kind of obvious that the highest point of the floor has the smallest gap between the baseplate & ladder and the least amount of thread/nut projecting above the top plate.

Too much to move around here to check each lock height for you, so here are some half assed measurements I took. If you need more exact later I'll see what I can do.....
-Looks like the bottom of the cross beam is just about 6" below the lock resting in the ladder. Beam/runway approx. 4.5" thick.
-First lock pocket approx. 24" above top of baseplate, measurements taken in corner where ladder is lowest (high part of floor).
-If I read your posts right you need 58" above the runways (54" for the car + 4" above that to raise the car off the locks).
-Seems like their 18.4" min you listed would be bottom of runway on 1st lock to highest point of floor.

 

[DerStig]

Gap between the baseplate and bottom of ladder on mine varies from approx. 1/2" to 1 1/2". Kind of obvious that the highest point of the floor has the smallest gap between the baseplate & ladder and the least amount of thread/nut projecting above the top plate.

Too much to move around here to check each lock height for you, so here are some half assed measurements I took. If you need more exact later I'll see what I can do.....
-Looks like the bottom of the cross beam is just about 6" below the lock resting in the ladder. Beam/runway approx. 4.5" thick.
-First lock pocket approx. 24" above top of baseplate, measurements taken in corner where ladder is lowest (high part of floor).
-If I read your posts right you need 58" above the runways (54" for the car + 4" above that to raise the car off the locks).
-Seems like their 18.4" min you listed would be bottom of runway on 1st lock to highest point of floor.

Thank you. I really appreciate this.

Do you see any issues if my ladders are resting 1/8" off the floor not 1/2"?

My floor is pretty flat. There is only 1" between high side and low side.

My ceiling where the roof of the car will be getting close to is 90". Car is 54". That means excluding the 4.5" runway height, I have about 32" of height to work with. Which means 4 safety locks with the 4th one cutting it very close.

I wish I could have another safety lower to the ground so say at 14" instead of 18.4". Because if you think about it that 18.4" means the actual work area will be 27-28" from the ground. Thats 4.5" runway plus 5-5.5" of car's height between tires and say exhaust or transmission. The problem with that is, that height is too much for creeper work. You cannot lay on your back and reach 28" from the ground. Perfect height would more be 22-23".

I think this thing will fit and its probably going to be the tightest install ever in the history of 4 post lifts.

By the way, and you will now see how amateurish I am, bendpak's site keeps saying free shipping but it looks like I am responsible for unloading the truck? I have a 200 ft long steep driveway. How in the world am I going to unload 1900 lbs of metal let alone take it down to my garage

I called a few companies from bendpak's site they are saying they will bring it but they also install it and they charge $1000. There is no way to pay them just to bring it to my garage and leave it.

Any suggestions?

 

[Z2V]

You get a truck and flat bed trailer and go to freight dock, they will put it on your trailer for you. Now you can take it home, unload and assemble it.
As for the locks, you could take your ladders to your local machine shop and have them cut another hole in each to give you a lower locking position.
It shouldn't matter how far the ladders are off the floor as long as they are off the floor.

 

[DerStig]

You get a truck and flat bed trailer and go to freight dock, they will put it on your trailer for you. Now you can take it home, unload and assemble it.
As for the locks, you could take your ladders to your local machine shop and have them cut another hole in each to give you a lower locking position.
It shouldn't matter how far the ladders are off the floor as long as they are off the floor.

That's sound advice, thank you.

To be fair, I did ask Bendpak to drill holes for me but they said no. I am curious if the integrity of the lift will be compromised when I drill extra holes. Is there a design reason as to why the first one is 18" off? I guess we'll never know

Anyways, I will go ahead and place an order next week and keep this thread up to date when it arrives.

As for renting a truck/trailer, the only problem is I need to go backwards into my steep driveway due to its shape and space. I dont know if thats going to be easy but we'll see. haha!

 

[thickhead]

Your particular delivery and interesting installation may be the best $1000 anyone has ever spent on a 4 post lift in the history of 4 post lifts.

 

[DerStig]

Your particular delivery and interesting installation may be the best $1000 anyone has ever spent on a 4 post lift in the history of 4 post lifts.

I am so scared about this yet at the same time I am so excited. You know the feeling

 

[Z2V]

Considering your lack of overhead room it might be worth looking into BendPak's
Adjustable-Limit-Microswitch. It might keep you from accidentally pushing your car thru the ceiling. Just a thought.

 

[DerStig]

Considering your lack of overhead room it might be worth looking into BendPak's
Adjustable-Limit-Microswitch. It might keep you from accidentally pushing your car thru the ceiling. Just a thought.

Thank you, I didnt know what that was, I will look into it. This forum has been super helpful, I am really grateful.

 

[domer911]

I have the ST version. Get the aluminum ramps, you won't regret it

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk

 

[domer911]

Also, if you don't plan to bolt your lift to the floor, buy the casters. Your lift will creep on you over time and you will need the casters to reposition it.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk

 

[DerStig]

Just a quick question, does the lift need to be moved up before moving down to release the safety locks? If so, by how much? Thanks.