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Installing a outlet in a drawer

Brian_WK

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Is there any code against installing a outlet in a drawer?

I would like to mount a USB outlet like This in a Handy box like This. The Drawer is in an island not anywhere near water source and pulls out about 6 inches. I would like to run metal shielded wire up to the box but could use 12/2 cord W/ground if that would be better.

Thoughts?

Brian
 
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Zeke

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Brian_WK

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Dont use a handy box and why do u need shielded wire?

Not Shielded, sorry Metal Clad was having a brain fart there. Just as strain relief and abrasion resistance as the drawer would be opened and closed.

Have a suggestion other than the handy box? It will be mounted inside the drawer not cut in the back. But you will not be able to see the box as the drawer is 9 inches deep 6 inches wide and only pulls out 6 inches.

Brian
 
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Brian_WK

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That's pricey. I've used a plug strip plugged into a normal outlet and run into the drawer. If you get the slack right it works well. Another idea is to use a curly cord. You don't find them often with standard plug ends though.

I'm using the plug strip deal now. Its awkward. I have looked at the curly cords before they want a ridiculous amount for them in 12 gauge and it and would be hard wired anyways.

Brian
 
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larry_g

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Take a look at this product. http://www.cableorganizer.com/igus/echain-series-e08-chain.html
Attach on end inside drawer and other end to underside of countertop....use a flexible cord inside to connect to outlet... there appear to be many different sizes/widths.

I have to agree with Chris here. Working in the automation field for years I know that cable control is important to successful movement of wires. The IGUS track is the proper product to use. Afix one end to the cabinet and the other end to the drawer. You must use a proper wire for flexibility and motion. Solid wire is not going to work. in the movable section.

lg
no neat sig line
 
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Brian_WK

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why do you need 12ga for this application? i would think 14 is more then fine for a single plug.

The outlet that it will be wired into is a 20 amp 12 so I would either have to fuse that run or put in a smaller breaker.

I have to agree with Chris here. Working in the automation field for years I know that cable control is important to successful movement of wires. The IGUS track is the proper product to use. Afix one end to the cabinet and the other end to the drawer. You must use a proper wire for flexibility and motion. Solid wire is not going to work. in the movable section.

lg
no neat sig line

I am thinking this route as well with 12/2 W/ Ground cord. As long its not breaking any rules on having it hard wired. It would remain flexible and protect the cord.

Brian
 

rockwithjason

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don't use MC cable for that, use SO cord. as long as the handy box is fastened in place and the cord is not subject to damage or water then I can't find anything against it in the code. you may be better off with a bell box than a handy box tho.
 

wyliesdiesels

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Not Shielded, sorry Metal Clad was having a brain fart there. Just as strain relief and abrasion resistance as the drawer would be opened and closed.

Have a suggestion other than the handy box? It will be mounted inside the drawer not cut in the back. But you will not be able to see the box as the drawer is 9 inches deep 6 inches wide and only pulls out 6 inches.

Brian

Handy boxes are very small and not worth the frustration.
 
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Brian_WK

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don't use MC cable for that, use SO cord. as long as the handy box is fastened in place and the cord is not subject to damage or water then I can't find anything against it in the code. you may be better off with a bell box than a handy box tho.

Bell box makes more sense and would blend better with the cover thanks!:beer: I'll try with just the cord but will keep the chain track in mind if it looks to be a problem. It will just be hanging in dead space so I think it will be OK if I put some strain relief on the ends. It will probobly only do 600 open closes cycles a year.

Brian
 
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