250
Well-known member
Usually a few minutes. I've cut it close too many times.
As part of the quiet section of the peanut gallery, I've enjoyed watching your work and collecting ideas. Thanks for sharing.
Between 485 & 705 SQ/FT Mid-Century Moto Mecca Makeover
- Thread starter sakurama
- Start date
Workspaces between 485 and 705 squarefeet.
Usually a few minutes. I've cut it close too many times.
As part of the quiet section of the peanut gallery, I've enjoyed watching your work and collecting ideas. Thanks for sharing.
Mr. Blewregaurd
Active member
I've finally made it to the end. I can't even belive it. Took an entire week of my free time! This thread has been unbelievably inspiring to me in my own MCM resto mod. Thanks for the confidence boost!
It's funny, my father was a master Carpenter his entire life, just retired last year. Spent the last ten years with nothing but festool, and I was so busy with action sports-cars-music, I never learned a damn thing from him. And now all I want to do is build cabinets, and he is on the other side of the country! Funny how that works. I I think pushing your kids a little is helpful. My dad never pressured me into doing anything I didn't want to, but I sure wish I paid more attention when he was trying to show me things
It's funny, my father was a master Carpenter his entire life, just retired last year. Spent the last ten years with nothing but festool, and I was so busy with action sports-cars-music, I never learned a damn thing from him. And now all I want to do is build cabinets, and he is on the other side of the country! Funny how that works. I I think pushing your kids a little is helpful. My dad never pressured me into doing anything I didn't want to, but I sure wish I paid more attention when he was trying to show me things
Thanks! That is something that the new Sony does very well - low light photography. It used to be that cameras didn't make as much difference as they do but now the different cameras have very distinct personalities. The Sony is difficult to use but rewarding when you get it right.
Yeah, Jess is a bad influence. That's why I like him and subscribe...
I'm not so much a "watch guy" as a Seiko guy. I never wore watches until about 4 or 5 years ago and now I can't not have one on. I always wanted a Rolex but the cost was too much for something that I knew I would just trash. I don't like things I have to worry about. When I discovered the sub cult of Seiko's, and specifically the SKX007's, and of modding them I started down the rabbit hole. ******* rabbits. It wasn't enough to fit new hands so I started making bezels since it seemed the one thing there wasn't many options for. Here's three that I made:
I enjoyed trying to come up with designs that fit the style of the watch and band I had and that were different - something that is hard to do in the saturated world of watches. I toyed with the idea of producing them and took them to a machine shop to see if they could duplicate them on the CNC but never followed through. There are some extremely tight tolerances involved and I wasn't sure if we'd be able to hit them. In the end I just let it go - I have so much going on as it is.
The watch I wear daily is a Seiko SKA371 which isn't a true "mechanical" but a kinetic but I like the larger size of it compared to my collection of SKX007's and I like that it keeps perfect time, is super robust and durable and never stops or needs to be wound if I don't wear it for a day or a week.
So watches are another thing I'm trying to keep in check...
Gregor
Seikos are a crazy good deal. The fit and finish and overal quality for the price is crazy. The amazing sub culture and 3rd party customization for the seiko automatic divers is staggering. My favorite for a general purpose with not mods is the SKX173. It is the same as the SKX007, but with rectangular hash marks. For whatever reason the several that I have seem brighter than my SKX173s.
If anyone goes down the Seiko rabbit hole, I recommend you pick up a Super Oyster bracelet off Ebay. Solid stainless with Solid end links. Heavy but awesome.
Then with your other version I recommend buying every color and and configuration of nato straps and swap with every whim. Canvas, Nylon, Leather, and in every color.
If it was not for my love of automatic divers, I might do the apple watch, but there is just something about Analog that I cannot get away from.
hewey
Well-known member
Nice photos as always.
Amazing thread. I have read it start to finish twice now. The first time was probably about 6 months ago when I was looking at building garage cabinets. I just read it again to pick up all the details I may have glossed over the first time.
You've mentioned the laser level several times, but unlike most of your tools, you never specified what brand model. I would love to know as I am in the market for one right now and I either have or want many of the tools already in this thread.
You've mentioned the laser level several times, but unlike most of your tools, you never specified what brand model. I would love to know as I am in the market for one right now and I either have or want many of the tools already in this thread.
Thanks.
It's a Dewalt. I believe that it was something I got through a shoot so I can't say that I extensively researched it but I have to say that it's held up for maybe 6 or 7 years and continues to work well so no complaints.
UPDATE TIME!
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I have had one of the busier falls that I've had in many years which is great for the finances but hell for projects. The house and everything else has fallen by the wayside but with a few weeks before Christmas I thought I'd tackle a small project I could finish easily. Getting some light in the living room.
The design of the house has next to no overhead lighting and there's not really any way to get power in the ceiling since there's no attic - our ceiling is our roof. But a while back I saw some wires just sticking out of the wall in the living room...
Figuring they were orphans of some light that no longer existed I got my voltage tester only to discover they were hot. And bare. I added the caps when I discovered them. Wow. This is the house that keeps on giving surprises. Given their location and that they weren't switched I figured I'd need to open up the inside of the wall and simply find them and then add a switch and box. I pulled the nearest outlet and found the second leg which I disconnected to test - sure enough it was the line.
I didn't start out shooting much of this because I honestly thought it would take an afternoon and how interesting is putting in a light switch? Well this project has proven to be a microcosm of why the house is going on three years now. To make matters worse J wanted to get the tree early this year and so I'm working around a Christmas tree.
As I pull off the boards where the wire is I find crumpled up newspaper stuffed in the gaps which I can only assume was to block a hole as there wasn't enough to be insulation.
So now I know when this little addition was added to the house - 1976, when I was 11. I always love doing the math and thinking about what I was doing when this wall was opened and they were putting in the pair of bump out closets. I think I was riding my pony in the bicentennial parade that was crossing the country that summer.
Anyway, I peaked at the dark space below the window and notice it's rather cold... and empty. I pulled off the boards below the window expecting to find something but no.
I can't for the life of me understand not putting in insulation. 1976 was in the oil crisis so people were starting to think about saving energy but evidently not here, below the window.
I have gotten more use out of this ridiculously long drill than I would have ever guessed. Since the wall was open it made sense to put an outlet there before I filled it with insulation. One giant long hole and power flowed on to the other side.
So with the outlet in I sat down to draw out how to wire in the lights and a switch. Electric isn't easy for me so I make drawings. Luckily I discovered before putting in the switch that the orphan wire also happened to power the rest of the living room which would have been awkward to have on a dimmer.
So I ran a second wire up to a box that I will use to control some track lights which is about the only way to get light into the room from above. I know a lot of people hate track lights but I sort of have a soft spot for it. We had a "modern" kitchen in the 70's growing up and I loved the lights back then and now my fondness for them is that they mimic photo lights in that I can direct "pools" of light to various spots which always looks nice. It's also about my only option but hey, they'll be LEDs!
So with the power in I figure I should add another switch to control lights in the small closets. I wire the second switch to the lower outlet that I tapped for power and make them dimmable so that any LED lighting I decide to put in the closet will be controlled from a second switch. Finally I'm starting to think a tiny bit ahead.
I had always planned on trying to finish the closets so that they sort of looked intentional and would blend in to the existing wall. I had also always thought of the walls as cedar but it was pointed out to me that they were most likely pine and when I pulled off the boards I was able to confirm they were nice clear fir tongue and groove which made more sense here in the PNW. So I bought some matching replacement boards. Here, from last year, is where I'm working.
I guess I was somehow thinking this was still a "quick" project and was trying to rush through it. I nailed the first new pine board next to the old one and thought to myself, "That's awful light. I don't think clear poly is going to darken that up to match..." So off the board came and into the garage I went to put on some poly. Nope. Not even close.
So then I looked at the boards more carefully. It certainly looked like they were stained at some point. I wouldn't make sense really as we'd sanded down most of these boards and then put on the satin poly I'm using on everything but the edges certainly look darker like there was a stain. Perhaps the wood has simply aged, perhaps it was a shellac back in 76 or who knows but my new lumber was not going to match.
Easy peezy, lemon squeezey as my little girl likes to say. I grabbed a new board and tested a cherry stain and it looked awful. Blotchy, splotchy and entirely disgusting. If I was a woodworker of long experience I probably would have expected this but in my naïveté I had used cedar for most of the wood accents along the beams and when I cleared that cedar it turned out to be a perfect match to the walls and took the poly like a champ - no staining necessary.
The internets told me I needed a sanding sealer, one woodworking store told me to use Shellac, another sold me pre stain conditioner and so far none of them is right.
The original board is the middle. Of course my plan for the closets now is to line the entire thing with this tongue and groove with a cabinet hidden below. I've spent several days trying to find the magic combination of sealer, sanding and stain that will give a good match without blotching. Either the stain blotches or "reverse grains" (the light parts become darker than the dark bands which looks awful) or the sealer prevents the stain from actually darkening the wood. I'm waiting on one last product that the Wood Whisper recommends and crossing my fingers that my "afternoon project" will be done by Christmas...
I've tried all of the sealers dry, wet and in between. I have sanded some of them then tried the stain and haven't found love yet although the second on the bottom right is close. I probably should start to be more systematic now that my initial tests have all failed. If you've used something that worked well please let me know. Next up will be the Wood Whisper's suggestion: Charles Neil's Pre-Color Conditioner.
Fingers crossed...
Gregor
E12-535iTurbo
Well-known member
It's nice to see you back on the house (and funny to see you make the same mistakes over and over again...... this time I'll only tackle a small project. Yeah right, it all starts small then the OCD kicks in).
I knew where this was heading.
I was not wrong.
And you did not disappoint .
(Maybe now you know why the original owner simply painted everything white
)dhubbard422
Well-known member
Nice work "Alice", aka Gregor! I hope this particular rabbit hole isn't too deep!
As to the pic of the Christmas tree in the house - both look wonderful!
Happy Holidays!
Don
As to the pic of the Christmas tree in the house - both look wonderful!
Happy Holidays!
Don
OJ Bartley
Well-known member
Thanks for the update Gregor. It's amazing how much more enjoyable it makes even reading about a simple project like running some wire and adding insulation when the photos are done with a professional eye. The overall shot of the house to date is beautiful... what a tree!
TimRaleigh
Active member
- Joined
- Nov 27, 2013
- Messages
- 27
I agree this is fairly close, at least as far as a photo can tell me. Aged finish, is difficult to match because of UV exposer and the solvent based finishes reacting with the oils in the wood create sutble nuances not easily reproduced.
Always the best way. Takes time, and resources but always the best. In my last color matching exercise I produced 24 samples. At least half were on the wrong wood. Go figure.
For pre stain conditioner I like to start with plain distilled water, sprayed on the wood, not pooled and let dry. This usually works on wood that blotches easily but works better when staining anything past a mid tone as blotches get easily hidden. For lighter colors on "pitchy" wood like fir, pine and cedar I like to use a water reducible linseed oil base like Target EM 4000. The clear base has very little color. This lets the stain penetrate the wood more evenly rather than create a barrier like a thinned sealer or shellac and lets you match to aged wood.
It's not something that I have used, but it appears to be more of a "sizing" which is a weak solution of glue and water or acrylic polymer emulsion and water. Sizing was often used in the preparation of raw cotton or linen canvas before the advent of commercially prepared canvas to act as a barrier to rot from linseed oil based paints. I will be interested in your tests.
Tim
polexican23
Banned
well at least it is just wood boards you can pull down. If it involves altering drywall in anyway, I dont bother. I hate patching, sanding, mudding, sanding, mudding, sanding, mudding, sanding, sanding, sanding, cleaning, priming, painting, and final clean up. (all over the span of like 3 months to do all this)
fergus
Well-known member
Sounds like TimRaleigh knows what he's talking about^^^.
All I can add is from research I've done about trying to stain some fir plywood: using a single coat of half pound cut shellac as a base. Then stain a test piece. If too dark, do two coats of shellac, then stain. Repeat as necessary. You might already be past this though.
All I can add is from research I've done about trying to stain some fir plywood: using a single coat of half pound cut shellac as a base. Then stain a test piece. If too dark, do two coats of shellac, then stain. Repeat as necessary. You might already be past this though.
wasfast
Well-known member
As noted, and as you've found out, matching is very difficult. If you can do an entire section with the same wood/treatment then you have somewhat of a chance. Matching old CVG and new is challenging.
I can give some context as to finishes in 1976. I worked in Beaverton, building what is now the Sunset Athletic Club as well as a cabinet shop. Still plenty of plain old lacquer (not shellac) especially for cabinets. I'd have to think for all that area that spraying it was well within possibility. Watco oil finish was also coming into vogue. Lastly, there was original Varathane but doubtful it was used on those boards. It was only the high gloss stuff and high build so pretty obvious if it was. This all may help, may not.
I can give some context as to finishes in 1976. I worked in Beaverton, building what is now the Sunset Athletic Club as well as a cabinet shop. Still plenty of plain old lacquer (not shellac) especially for cabinets. I'd have to think for all that area that spraying it was well within possibility. Watco oil finish was also coming into vogue. Lastly, there was original Varathane but doubtful it was used on those boards. It was only the high gloss stuff and high build so pretty obvious if it was. This all may help, may not.
komodo_goods
New member
- Joined
- Oct 5, 2013
- Messages
- 3
Gregor, do you have any specs on your XR100 or another build thread?
info2x
Well-known member
I'm glad to see that my small projects are not alone in their large scope. My parents house was also built around the energy crisis and is poorly insulated.
Not really a build thread. I've never taken the XR very serious although it's sort of ended up being a bit on the extreme side. I have a custom made Kolb Racing frame that I'll eventually build up and that will warrant a thread but here's a bit more info on it from my post on SupermotoJunkies:
- Takegawa 120 kit
- BBR rev box
- Mikuni 26mm flat slide
- Triumph 955 320 disk
- CR250 twin piston caliper and master
- Shop made caliper bracket
- Shop made breather box
- BBR swingarm
- BBR full exhaust (wrapped because the salt rusted it)
- CR85 forks with custom stem
- Works Shock
- BBR frame cradle
- Shop made sliders all around
- Dunlop soft slicks
- 17" Excell Rims
- K&N filter
- CRF body work in black with BBR graphics
Brakes are actually too good but it's fun to be able to do one finger stoppies. Handling was much improved with 90mm of 20wt fork oil but when I redo it I'll swap it to 15wt. I'd also like to find a better damped shock like a small Ohlins that could be made to fit. In looking at the photos above I'm sort of encouraged by my last few attempts at welding aluminum.
As I mentioned I have a custom frame that I am planning on swapping everything over to. It's a beautiful copy of a Ron Wood twin cradle flat track frame sized for an adult but using the XR100 engine and built by Scott Kolb. Considering how much I may have to remake I'm really only an engine away from a second bike so I may leave this as is and build the bike up as a second bike.
Right now I'm going to turn my attention to my Triumph. It doesn't need too much and I need a reason to stay up after the kids go to bed. Of course the garage is taken over with the living room project which is, big surprise, running a bit behind.
Nonetheless I've started to order parts for the Triumph and will be getting the side plates laser cut soon. It is the bike that is closest to getting finished so I'm going to buckle down and get that bike on the road this spring. That would get me past the 50% mark of bikes that run vs bikes that don't.
Gregor
aggierailroad
Well-known member
I hate to send you down the rabbit hole - but when I'm having a tough time matching stain I try my luck at blending dye. TransTint makes a nice powder or liquid dye that you can mix and match to get a great color. It's nice because you can "wash" the wood with one color and blend another color on top. Maybe a weak red followed by a weak orange/brown.
My only tip, not applicable here, is that black dyes will often look "green" on some woods. Often better to try ebonizing if you want a dark look.
My only tip, not applicable here, is that black dyes will often look "green" on some woods. Often better to try ebonizing if you want a dark look.
komodo_goods
New member
- Joined
- Oct 5, 2013
- Messages
- 3
Gregor,
Thank you. I would have been satisfied with just a list of mods, but as always you go above and beyond and I want to thank you for doing that.
Thank you. I would have been satisfied with just a list of mods, but as always you go above and beyond and I want to thank you for doing that.
komodo_goods
New member
- Joined
- Oct 5, 2013
- Messages
- 3
Gregor,
Thank you. I would have been satisfied with just a list of mods, but as always you go above and beyond and that is seriously cool of you to do that for a total stranger.
Thank you. I would have been satisfied with just a list of mods, but as always you go above and beyond and that is seriously cool of you to do that for a total stranger.
Baroquenstrings
Member
- Joined
- Feb 2, 2008
- Messages
- 15
That looks like SO much fun!!!! I couldn't attend the Mac race last year but hope to this year and would like to see that in person if we both go. Speaking of which, it would have been nice to see that at The One- perhaps you could bring it out to that??? If you'll be there I'll stop and say hi. I'm usually quiet and reserved but I'll have lots of compliments for you and your projects if nothing else!
Keep up the good work on all of your projects! I always look forward to your pics and details regarding them.
Keep up the good work on all of your projects! I always look forward to your pics and details regarding them.
Not really a build thread. I've never taken the XR very serious although it's sort of ended up being a bit on the extreme side. I have a custom made Kolb Racing frame that I'll eventually build up and that will warrant a thread but here's a bit more info on it from my post on SupermotoJunkies:
- Takegawa 120 kit
- BBR rev box
- Mikuni 26mm flat slide
- Triumph 955 320 disk
- CR250 twin piston caliper and master
- Shop made caliper bracket
- Shop made breather box
- BBR swingarm
- BBR full exhaust (wrapped because the salt rusted it)
- CR85 forks with custom stem
- Works Shock
- BBR frame cradle
- Shop made sliders all around
- Dunlop soft slicks
- 17" Excell Rims
- K&N filter
- CRF body work in black with BBR graphics
Brakes are actually too good but it's fun to be able to do one finger stoppies. Handling was much improved with 90mm of 20wt fork oil but when I redo it I'll swap it to 15wt. I'd also like to find a better damped shock like a small Ohlins that could be made to fit. In looking at the photos above I'm sort of encouraged by my last few attempts at welding aluminum.
As I mentioned I have a custom frame that I am planning on swapping everything over to. It's a beautiful copy of a Ron Wood twin cradle flat track frame sized for an adult but using the XR100 engine and built by Scott Kolb. Considering how much I may have to remake I'm really only an engine away from a second bike so I may leave this as is and build the bike up as a second bike.
Right now I'm going to turn my attention to my Triumph. It doesn't need too much and I need a reason to stay up after the kids go to bed. Of course the garage is taken over with the living room project which is, big surprise, running a bit behind.
Nonetheless I've started to order parts for the Triumph and will be getting the side plates laser cut soon. It is the bike that is closest to getting finished so I'm going to buckle down and get that bike on the road this spring. That would get me past the 50% mark of bikes that run vs bikes that don't.
Gregor
Ha, I never thought of submitting the little XR into the 1 Show. Maybe I should do that. Of course the new frame is the thing that will make that special so I'd probably want to hold off.
It looks like this year I won't have a bike for the show but it also looks like I'm going to be the official photographer. I need to speak to Thor about it but I have loved attending and being in the show and this year is going to be three times the size of last year so it should be a fun year to shoot it. I'm not sure how I'm going to shoot it but I want to come up with something that will be unusual, cool and special. Thinking cap on.
So for sure I'll be there and I would love to meet any fellow GJ people there.
Gregor
jon_beer
Well-known member
Gregor - it's nice to catch up with your projects! I've been away from GJ for a while also and usually keep up with you on Instagram, but love the write up portion too. Looking great as usual - hope you figure out the stain situation.
Jon
Jon
Having lived in the house for a few years I can honestly say that is one of the best decisions we've made. It is a little like having LASIK surgery which I've also done - it seems like something that is a bit extravagant or unnecessary and within a week you wonder why you waited.
I grew up in a house with a water heater that never seemed up to the task and baths were only possible if you added water from the stove. We can fill a 75 gallon tub with piping hot water any time. It's great for long showers, obviously, but also for things like filling up the kids pool outside with warm water in the summer. That is the other thing that was a great decision - outside hot/cold water bibs which really allow you to take advantage of the tankless. It's amazing for things like using the pressure washer to clean a motorcycle or wash the car. The downside is that we probably use more water.
One benefit that Ben reminded me of that the tankless doesn't give is the emergency backup water source. I consider the trailer to be our emergency shelter and that has water plus we also keep an extra 20-30 gallons in jugs in the house so we're pretty covered for the short term.
So yes, we really love the tankless.
In other news I managed to get one small project done before Christmas and then all progress stopped but today the tree was dismantled so I'm hoping to get back on the horse and work on those built ins again. Stay tuned!
Gregor
A35Plt
Active member
Wow!! 100 pages!!! Way to Gregor!
SteptoeKerr
New member
- Joined
- Dec 26, 2016
- Messages
- 1
Regrettably, I have come to the end of this epic thread. I started a few days ago after being linked to yours from Modern Jess' (I must get over and post on there too)
As people say, every cloud has a silver lining and mine is that you are still about posting updates. Honestly when I first caught up with your thread and the date was Jan '13 I thought to myself "by the time I reach the hundredth page this will be over and done with"and am I pleased you haven't. It just goes to show your commitment and enthusiasm.
Thank you very much Gregor for your insightful posts and whilst I have no doubt that you are the best 'Jack of all trades, Master of one' I find it incredibly humbling that all throughout this thread you are not afraid to ask questions (showing no sign of arrogance or ignorance)
It's been a thrilling read and albeit late I wish you a very happy new year and I look forward to catching up with this thread on a more semi regular basis.
Jamie
As people say, every cloud has a silver lining and mine is that you are still about posting updates. Honestly when I first caught up with your thread and the date was Jan '13 I thought to myself "by the time I reach the hundredth page this will be over and done with"and am I pleased you haven't. It just goes to show your commitment and enthusiasm.
Thank you very much Gregor for your insightful posts and whilst I have no doubt that you are the best 'Jack of all trades, Master of one' I find it incredibly humbling that all throughout this thread you are not afraid to ask questions (showing no sign of arrogance or ignorance)
It's been a thrilling read and albeit late I wish you a very happy new year and I look forward to catching up with this thread on a more semi regular basis.
Jamie
I am sure this has been asked before however searching though all 100 pages isn't easy - at least for me. My question is - what camera set up are you using? Are you doing a lot of post editing? What gives your photos such a great depth of field and color contrast? Thanks in advance.
Robust2
Member
First post in this thread after following along for quite some time, but wanted to chip in with my 2cents on your attempts of colour matching. I can't find much how well it would work with cedar (it's mainly used on oak), but have you ever looked into ammonia fuming?
I have fumed an oak table I made to achieve a uniform dark colour without staining and it turned out to be quite a controllable and easy process once you figure it out, a lot easier than I expected when starting (I just used household ammonia, no need for the industrial stuff some sources call for). It shouldn't be hard at all to do a testrun like you're doing with the stains.
Happy to post some pictures of my results and intermediate steps in case you're interested.
I have fumed an oak table I made to achieve a uniform dark colour without staining and it turned out to be quite a controllable and easy process once you figure it out, a lot easier than I expected when starting (I just used household ammonia, no need for the industrial stuff some sources call for). It shouldn't be hard at all to do a testrun like you're doing with the stains.
Happy to post some pictures of my results and intermediate steps in case you're interested.
Hi Theikm,
Yes, this thread left the rails a long time ago and I need to make an index to help people find things - myself included!
That said I've used a few different camera systems over the course of this thread. When I started I was using either a Ricoh or Fuji point and shoot and supplementing that with my Canon full frames (5D and EOS 1Ds mkiii) but then Ben, my architect friend and camera enabler, bought a Sony RX1 which he let me borrow. I was stunned at the quality and quickly sold a Canon 5D and replaced it with the RX1.
Most of this thread has been shot with that camera. The quality that I think you're reacting to is the depth that comes from using a full frame camera with a fast lens. Full frame cameras give a much "creamier" look than say an iPhone or a small point and shoot. It's not really the number of pixels but the size of the chip that makes the look.
Along with that is the "look" of a given chip and camera system. Nikon is known to be very punchy and Sony is very smooth. That's a minor detail but it tends to be something that people concentrate on. Much like modern cars or motorcycles with their gobs of power and complicated traction control it's all still controlled by "the nut behind the wheel" as they say. To tie this in to the thread on the house and because big blocks of type are boring...
That's the new track lighting in the living room with some focus manipulations with a "Tilt/Shift" lens. A lens that "bends" to change the plane of focus. Instagram has filter that mimics the effect but this is the real thing concentrating the focus on just the lights - beyond what a normal lens can do.
As a professional photographer this thread is a place for me to "play" with my cameras and of course all my tools! Often times my "work" can be work and in order to stay fresh it's important to play. I try to look at things in a different way and explore what the camera can do. My style as it were in this thread is one of low focus depth combined with an effort to use foreground and background together to enhance the image.
To answer your question more specifically I like to play with "depth". I do that by getting closer and using more wide open apertures (the smaller numbers with the larger openings - f1.4, f2.0) and also with the settings that I use when I process the files. I always shoot raw - to do otherwise is throw away about 80% of what a camera captures. Post processing only works if you shoot raw.
If you guys are interested I could try to put together a small tutorial on my process - it might be helpful to understand how you go from A to B. Let me know and I'll work on that.
So as the above photo hinted the only thing I got completed before Christmas was to install lights into the living room. With the wood walls and ceiling it's pretty dark at night and track was the only solution that I saw that would work. It's also a "period" solution for the house - maybe not exactly but it fits.
Something that I've been surprised with is the speed with which LED technology is progressing. In the time since I've started this the advances have been manifold and the ability of the bulbs and switches to dim to almost nothing with no flicker is really impressive.
The finishing of the builtins is next but with some upcoming work projects it might not happen quickly. So for those who wish to see the thread "progress" you'll be happy to know that there is no end in sight...
Gregor
iron block
Well-known member
If you can find the time, a Gregor Tutorial would be super!
I for one would be interested in such a tutorial. Though I feel greedy asking for it since you are so busy!
Track lighting only works in certain types of houses, and I think it looks very nice in yours. Excellent job.
No end in sight of the thread? Whoopeee!!!!!!
E12-535iTurbo
Well-known member
You guys should start here: http://advrider.com/index.php?threa...to-the-trans-lab.491784/page-14#post-10785151
Although that's not the exact tutorial you are refering to but it's good information anyway.
Although that's not the exact tutorial you are refering to but it's good information anyway.
I've been impressed with it so far. It's the IV version and if focuses pretty well with the one autofocus lens that I kept (my 70-200 f2.8) and it is invisible on the tilt/shift lenses. It makes switching to Sony possible.
Thanks, I should someday consolidate that stuff. I think the next thing will be how to use and work with Raw files. Just a basic understanding of them and what the various controls are.
Thanks. I laughed out loud when I read your "Whoopeee!!!" and read it to my wife. She gave a rather pronounced eye roll and does not share your enthusiasm.
In other news it looks like my sister may be returning to Oregon for a while if not possibly moving here. I could not be more excited. She really wants to help on the house and learn how to fix and build things and boy could I use the help. While she was here she tore out carpet in our back room - a project that I couldn't get excited about. There was some very period linoleum under it but the room is sort of a junk pile.
It's part of what hampers progress in a small house. My computer is in one of the builtins that I need to build out. To move it I need to make space in the back room. Do do that I need to build out a wall of shelves...
It's endless. Whoopeee!!!
Gregor
It suddenly occurred to me that I should say a big thank you to Gregor for this thread, I stumbled across it over a year ago when i think it was about 70 pages old or something like that and spent days reading it to catch up, using every spare minute I had. I am now a subscriber who eagerly waits for new posts, I always leave the thread inspired wether it be one of your epic projects or 'just' a really amazing photograph you share with us. Of course I have also read your build threads over on advrider as well! You really know how to tell a story with words and epic photos..
Its so easy to come on and read anonymously without even considering to say thank you for all of that!
Thank you.
Its so easy to come on and read anonymously without even considering to say thank you for all of that!
Thank you.
Finallygotit
ALLIANCE MEMBER
I echo this statement.
Thanks guys. I appreciate the comments and the support over this thread. I'm certainly surprised that it's been as popular as it has been. It also is the reason I feel like I can't slack off! Okay, I'm not as good at posting updates as I should be but I'm still making progress albeit slowly.
Thanks again.
Gregor