Between 485 & 705 SQ/FT Mid-Century Moto Mecca Makeover

[sakurama]

A filleting gun is a specialized caulk gun with replaceable tips to control the flow of sealant. Semco is the primary manufacturer. Here is a link to a video on fillet sealing using a filleting gun.

That's fancy. Thanks for the link.

Doesn't this in effect also seal the center of the rivet? I've seen these on a TV show about a company in WA (IIRC) that rebuilds old camping trailers.

I believe it should seal the rivet but I've found no proof of that. I learned about them from the Airstream forums as they're the best (only) way to do repairs that look original. There's even an entire thread devoted to photos of patches on airstreams. Not that I have looked at it several times...

Gregor, thank you for reminding me how many tools I need but don't have. I now have a used Roper Whitney punch and new Cleco and Pliers kit arriving in the near future. The rivet removal tool is saved on the Northern Tool site waiting for one of their sale flyers to arrive. My riveting projects will hopefully involve mostly setting although to be honest I expect to be in removal mode almost immediately after. After setting a few 1/4" pop rivets I graduated to a pneumatic riveter.

Ha, you're welcome! The thing is I can't think of any tool I've ever bought that I have regretted. Save for cheap tools - I typically regret those right after using them. You'll really love the Roper Whitney punch and they're pretty darn cheap considering how useful they are. Make sure they come with all their dies - you can get replacements but they cost almost as much as a used punch.

Oh, and my rivet shaver came with a pneumatic rivet gun. I have tried it and it's pretty nifty but I haven't "used it in anger" yet. That one seam will be where it becomes useful.

Gregor, are you using sealed pop rivets, or just standard pop rivets? Adding the sealant should be helpful, but I wonder if it reduces the compression? Even if it does, you have every opening sealed pretty tight. In my experience, we'd top seal the rivet, but I don't know that it would be necessary in your instance.

Keep up the great work! When will you buff it out to a mirrored finish?

Blessedly the Avion is anodized and so buffing it is ill advised. I will have to have my patches anodized before I install them so they match but I have dodged the bullet of polishing the trailer.

Word on the airstream forums is that the sealed rivets are a bad idea. The seals prevent the full tightening of the rivet and when the seal dries out the whole thing is loose. I do plan on top sealing the rivets on the roof and the entire seams with Eternabond. It is supposedly the best thing out there for covering the seams.

I'm not quite sure how I have previously missed learning about shaveable rivets, but, I'm not surprised that I learned about them on this thread.
Of course, one never knows with mother nature, but I'd wager it's too early for the rains to move back in to stay for a while, i.e. until next summer...

Yes, thanks to global warming we've seen our fall get pushed back to the end of October. While there will be a reckoning at some point it has made the winters of the PNW far more pleasant and short.

Thanks all for the support. I have some work projects coming up (christmas is in September in the magazine world) but I will update this when I make some more progress.

Gregor

 

[mr_magicfingers]

Quick thought for removing the sealant: How about one of those oscillating multi tools, the sort that they cut plaster casts off with. You can get a flat fitting for them that I've seen glaziers remove window putty with, that might work on the sealant without damaging the aluminium underneath.

 

[sakurama]

Quick thought for removing the sealant: How about one of those oscillating multi tools, the sort that they cut plaster casts off with. You can get a flat fitting for them that I've seen glaziers remove window putty with, that might work on the sealant without damaging the aluminium underneath.

That's not a bad idea. I'll have to look for an attachment for my Fien and see if that works. There's also what is essentially a plastic four flute end mill which is used in a drill that looks like it might work well but I've not looked into getting one yet.

Gregor

 

[Fandango]

I've used one of these pretty successfully for removing the Schwarzenegger strength adhesive that GM uses to glue moldings on. It may work for you, without risk of scratching the anodizing.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005RNGN8I/?tag=atomicindus08-20

 

[fergus]

This thread delivers G!

But it also makes me browse eBay for used metal working tools...

 

[sakurama]

I've used one of these pretty successfully for removing the Schwarzenegger strength adhesive that GM uses to glue moldings on. It may work for you, without risk of scratching the anodizing.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005RNGN8I/?tag=atomicindus08-20

Thanks, I'm going to give that a try when I get the chance. I'm super busy at the moment with regular work so everything goes on hold...

This thread delivers G!

But it also makes me browse eBay for used metal working tools...

Thanks, ebay is harder to find deals on but they're still out there. I appreciate bad spellers and those with bad camera skills as they are still the bulk of the deals.

Gregor

 

[RainierHooker]

A little late to the party, but by far the easiest way I've found to remove pro-seal, polyamide, hysol, or any other sealant from aluminum are the green 3M "Radial Bristle Discs". As long as you don't get too forceful, they will strip aluminum or magnesium without abrading it. I've been an aircraft mechanic for a decade and a half and when I discovered these, it was a game changer...

http://www.gesswein.com/p-9167-3m-roloc-radial-bristle-discs-3.aspx?gdffi=4ed2280f1b554a0fb0dbeec5c5309ac1&gdfms=6E1D056BE50E42FB98DD131BFBDDC0CE&gclid=COLojrzKhc8CFUWTfgodauEJkw

 

[Guster]

A little late to the party, but by far the easiest way I've found to remove pro-seal, polyamide, hysol, or any other sealant from aluminum are the green 3M "Radial Bristle Discs". As long as you don't get too forceful, they will strip aluminum or magnesium without abrading it. I've been an aircraft mechanic for a decade and a half and when I discovered these, it was a game changer...

Same, suggested it earlier. Given a few as a sample and they were awesome. Same on fibreglass and stripping paint off plastics without abrading the plastic. Speed and a light touch does the work else they will abrade as the plastic fingers are charged with abrasives but with such a range of hardness and coarses available you should find something. Scotchbrite are the next best with a ton of different grades.

 

[hpw]

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/member.php?u=299758

brought me here from

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=5965213#post5965213

subscribed and only 96 pages to catch up on

 

[NinjaBreadMan]

Hey Gregor,

Love this thread, one of my favs and a big inspiration as we're trying (very slowly) to give our UK home a Mid Century make over.

Anyway, just saw this and thought you'd be interested to see Kevin Schwantz with a Velomacchi back pack at the Intermot show...

 

[95riosnake]

I swear every time I check this thread I add more items to my Amazon wish list for later... lol. I always end up appreciating another detail of assembling or fabricating something from your work, and usually add something to my tool collection or supplies as well!

 

[sakurama]

Thanks! Sorry for the lack of updates. For some reason this has been one of my busiest falls ever and I have been hopping planes and shooting like mad. I'm so wiped out I can't even tell you. Hopefully I catch a break soon...

Gregor

I've met Kevin a few times and he's a super nice guy - not sure on relationships beyond that.

 

[Just F Me]

^^^Gregor, what's the part number on that MFT table extension? Or where did you get it? Or how did you get it? Or all of the above?

 

[sakurama]

^^^Gregor, what's the part number on that MFT table extension? Or where did you get it? Or how did you get it? Or all of the above?

I'm pretty amazed that I can't find it as I'm usually pretty good with my Google but it's an older table extension for the MFT1080. When I got my newer MFT/3 table it didn't fit so I machined some slots in the bracket to allow it to fit the newer table.

I don't use it much but when I do need it is pretty nice to have. You could go with 80/20 and make your own. Oh, look! Where'd that rabbit go?

http://festoolownersgroup.com/festool-jigs-tool-enhancements/more-fun-with-8020/

The world of 80/20 is one I'd love to have the resources to exploit but I've never had the need at the same time as the money.

Gregor

 

[nhowkins]

Gregor,

Not sure if I missed any posts or not, but could you post some photos of how your tool boxes are organized, and maybe a photo of all the types of organizers you have?

Thanks,
Noah

 

[sakurama]

Gregor,

Not sure if I missed any posts or not, but could you post some photos of how your tool boxes are organized, and maybe a photo of all the types of organizers you have?

Thanks,
Noah

No, I really haven't. I feel like the shop is a long way from that point and there was a time that I was working on that - cutting tool shadows from contrasting foam - but when I moved into this shop I bought the group of larger tool chests and just piled my tools in general groups and ever since the house has had me chasing my tail.

These are vestiges of what is left of the organization I once had and hope to once again aspire to. I have been so busy and my shop so crammed that I feel a bit out of control and in the weeds. My sister is visiting now and has promised to help me tackle a home project so I'm looking for something we can do together that will impart order on my chaos. Stay tuned for that!

Until then I would send you over to LilScorpion's thread: Tooling Organization

As it is the thread that inspired me to build my garage cabinets and continues to inspire me - the guy kicks organizational ***!

Gregor

 

[Hostyle]

My tool organization consists of putting my power tools in their respective boxes and cramming all my handtools in my toolbox... I haven't got enough tools to warrant such a big tool box, but then I don't have to organize as much as you. Every cloud and all that

 

[nhowkins]

I've done something similar to my tool chest but every time I go in there I think of a new way I want it arranged. Probably going to be a new project soon.

 

[Just F Me]

Maybe I have too much time on my hands...but am I the only person that has read through/browsed through this entire thread more than once?

Yeah...it's that good!

 

[tricksel]

Nope. And, it doesn't stop at the second time as well.

 

[sakurama]

Sorry for the lack of updates. I spent about 5 of the last 6 weeks on the road and while the schedule was grueling the work is welcome.

Of all the things that was really bugging me was that I hadn't finished the trailer roof when work picked up and rains started to fall. I swore I'd have the time since rain doesn't usually start up for us until mid to late October but this year it started earlier.

Luckily upon return from my last trip (to Holland and the headquarters of Rev'It!) I had a helper visit!

My sister! The only person in my entire family who's actually read this thread traveled from warm and cozy Florida to spend a couple of months with us and take some pottery classes here in the Pacific North Wet. Hi Lara!

Thanks Guster and Smschriefer - I'd never heard of this and it is indeed some really volatile stuff but it worked way better than anything else.

I'd originally planned on injecting sealant into the seam before I riveted it up but this seam had been redone once before and was pretty gapped so I decided to forgo caulk which would have messed up my clecos and go for a tight seam.

I figured that the Eternabond tape I was planning on using would be more effective on a tight seam than going the belt and suspenders method of trying to put caulk into the seam. I'd considered trying to put butyl tape in there but figured it would compress and lose strength and the rivets would become loose. I considered putting some Sikaflex in there but worried that it would ooze out and keep the Eternabond from sticking. Instead of belt and suspenders I went for a waterproof girdle.

With the various other sealers cleaned away and new rivets tightly holding the seam I laid down the Alumabond tape which is thick, sticky and very strong.

I also put in another plumbing vent cap and sealed around the air vent bases. To my great surprise the interior was dry after the next rain save for a small leak that seems to be coming from the base of the air conditioner. Success!

While my two small pieces of tape covered the tears and gap in the dent I now have an english wheel so...

I made a few patches and dropped them off to be anodized. I will also remove and patch the TV antenna so I figured this was a good warm up. It's on the roof, you won't notice it being off and it's not structural. Good practice.

And with Lara here she's kicked my *** to move forward on some stalled projects so hopefully we'll see a bit more progress before she heads home.

Stay tuned!

Gregor

 

[JTH]

Nice work on the seam! Reminds me of aircraft work from long ago! I'm guessing your sister has good memories of the trailer too. Always enjoy your thread. JT

 

[E12-535iTurbo]

Nice to read an update. So you went to Revit and didn't even stop by for a beer or chat . It's a 25 minute drive.

 

[sakurama]

Nice to read an update. So you went to Revit and didn't even stop by for a beer or chat . It's a 25 minute drive.

I know - it kills me. Three days and the most I saw was the inside of a conference room and downtown Oss. Worse still is J asked as I was leaving, "You're staying an extra day to sightsee?" - What?!? You'd let me after a month on the road? Flights were booked.

G

 

[E12-535iTurbo]

I know - it kills me. Three days and the most I saw was the inside of a conference room and downtown Oss. Worse still is J asked as I was leaving, "You're staying an extra day to sightsee?" - What?!? You'd let me after a month on the road? Flights were booked.

G

Just make sure you do book an extra day next time. Downtown Oss and a conference room should not be your memories of our little kingdom.

And I'm sure my wife would like a word with you... . Or otherwise our accountant certainly has something to say about that Festool infection you transfered.

 

[Hostyle]

I'm with E12 here... We could at least have gone for a bite to eat in downtown Oss

 

[sakurama]

I'm with E12 here... We could at least have gone for a bite to eat in downtown Oss

That would have been very cool. I always forget how small and close everything is there. Sorry guys.

G

 

[Hostyle]

No problem Gregor, I guess you'll be over here some other time as you continue to work for Rev'it.

 

[fergus]

Quick question: How are you garage cabinets holding up? Have you had appreciable movement on the doors? Would you change anything?

I ask as I plan to build somewhat similar garage cabinets in the near future...and I was thinking I might have some warpage if I used ply for the doors. Its a lot drier and hotter here than in Portland, though we do get a little frost in winter.

 

[sakurama]

Quick question: How are you garage cabinets holding up? Have you had appreciable movement on the doors? Would you change anything?

Sorry for the late reply. I've been shooting in SoCal for the last week for Rev'It! and while it's been a ton of fun it's been non stop 18-20 hour days. I'm only now recovering. It has been a really fun shoot and unlike almost every shoot I do that has an embargo preventing me from sharing the shots this one is public. If you want to actually see not just some of my shots but also me shooting we have a hashtag on Instagram: #realrevitriders

I'll be uploading shots to IG this week but the hashtag was shared by everyone on the shoot so it's fun to see the different perspectives. Also, the Rev'It! 95 AWD KTM bike that I helped build was on the shoot and I finally got the chance to shoot and ride it. It was something else. Here's a tease - check out IG for more.

And I was hoping I had the shots of my cabinets with me but I can't find it right now but the answer is they're holding up really well. My one long run is probably holding a combined 1000lbs and there's no sagging. The shelves are nice and strong and only a few of the doors need to be realigned but they're not out by much more than a 1/16th. I'm surprised and impressed.

Gregor

 

[fergus]

Yeah, I saw some shots on IG. Looks fantastic! I was muttering "you ****" when I saw the location was Ocotillo. I used to ride down there a lot before we moved to Nor Cal.

Glad to hear the cabinets are working out well. I'll be building mine out of 1-1/8 plywood - I had a big stack of it given to me a while back...we shall see how that turns out.

 

[Brian R]

Boy, that's a great shot! A nice reminder for me to go out and ride but I'm checking out the IG when I get back.

 

[Growlertdi]

I just realized that I hadnt replied to your thread yet. I started reading it a whille ago and just finished last week. your work is amazing and very inspiring.

 

[Hugo L.]

Amazing. Just amazing.

 

[PatDonovan]

Happy birthday Gregor. Hope you and the family had an amazing day...thank you so much for sharing your journey. It is a constant insiration.

 

[Bushmaster6]

as an aspiring, and not very good, photographer, I'd be grateful if you would share a little "how" on these shots.. the ability to capture two very different lights and get the proper exposure for the outer (darker) and the inner (brighter and action).. are they layers, or a single shot?

Gregor

 

[sakurama]

as an aspiring, and not very good, photographer, I'd be grateful if you would share a little "how" on these shots.. the ability to capture two very different lights and get the proper exposure for the outer (darker) and the inner (brighter and action).. are they layers, or a single shot?

Sure, I'm happy to. It's a single exposure.

I sometimes joke that photography is like real estate: location, location, location. But it is just as much like comedy... wait for it... wait...

...timing!

The shots above I have a bit of each working for me.

In one of my last IG posts I made a comment about the "magic hour" which is perhaps a not often enough heard term but one that anyone aspiring to do dramatic photography should know. That hour is the one right at sunset but not for the obvious reasons of the dramatic sky. It is magic because the sun's reduced intensity balances with all our meager artificial light - headlights, lamps, streetlights, flashlights etc.

Outside of some powerful strobes there's really nothing that can beat the sun so the magic happens during that brief time when sunlight equals your artificial light. The above shots were taken probably pretty well after sunset (maybe 40 minutes) because I had to wait for the light to fade enough to be equal to the rather dim incandescent bulbs in the trailer.

The shot above was closer to sunset (maybe 20 minutes) because the headlights were brighter so that magic point where the sky and the headlights "matched" was closer to sunset. The other reason this shot works is the timing. I saw the car coming from the west and waited for it's headlights to become this amorphous flare that would add drama. Bingo!

If you want to get more technical there are terms for the stages of dusk. There is Civil Twilight or Civil Dawn; the time from 0-6 degrees of rotation of the earth past sunset or before dawn/dusk which works out to be pretty close to 20 minutes. Then there's Nautical Twilight which is the next 6 degrees and 20 minutes and finally there is Astronomical Twilight which is the final stretch to dark.

All of that is to say that if you are in a cool place around sunset or dawn you almost can't help but get some cool shots. It is also why I spent a week making my entire crew get up at 4am every day so we could be in the middle of the desert before the sun came up. And we didn't leave until after the sun was long gone. I milk every minute of those hours.

So, go out and experiment at dusk. Watch the light fade and notice how often you see those kinds of photos now that you're aware of the "magic hour"

Gregor

 

[slik560]

I had to chuckle about your 4AM comment. It's hard to explain to non-photography people the need to go EARLY to set up for a session during the Golden Hour, Magic Hour, Blue Hour or whatever term you choose. The good light at sunrise and sunset is fleeting....and no way do you have an hour....

Excellent as usual.

 

[Bushmaster6]

Sure, I'm happy to.

Gregor

Gregor, thanks for taking the time to type that.. certainly have heard reference to the "golden" hour before but your explanation enhanced my nascent understanding.. I need to make the effort to plan around timing, to help achieve that (comedy like) timing you described. Look forward to continued posts! Cheers

BM6

 

[Choirboy]

That is the part I hate about vacations; often I plan too many sights for the day and so there is no chance to wait for perfect light. If I'm at the mountain top and it is noon, I shoot my (completely amateur) photos and have to keep going. Sometimes I have (by chance) been in the right place at the right time, and goodness what a difference it makes. I have some wonderful pictures of die Wartburg in Eisenach Germany taken right at sunset just after a rain shower that look like they were taken by someone who knew what they were doing.
Thank you for this thread, Gregor. Your willingness to share the process (whether it be in woodworking, machining, or photography) is incredibly generous, and greatly appreciated.