Surfacing wiring a space with wiremold/ plugtrak.

[yeldogt]

I'm trying to figure out a rational way to electrify a 36 x 34 addition to my studio. It's built out of structural insulated panels -- they come with drywall attached. The inside is taped and primed. It's just a big open space -- 12' walls/ cathedral ceiling. The lighting is currently powered from the main building .. I use a heavy extension cord from the main building if I need to use a powered tool.

Originally, was thinking EMT was my only solution - that requires laying out the outlets .. both for 220v tools and the normal 120v. Was thinking I could have some drops and tee off with a plug strip on each side of a surface box -- does anyone know how code looks at the plug strips? I was able to get 12 of the 6' strips (each has 5 double outlets). They are Hubbell Plugtrak. Got them cheap -- not worried if it does not work.

I was further thinking I could place a 220v outlet in each of the drop boxes. Example: Three drops down the wall to a surface box holding a 220v outlet -- tee off on each side with the 6' Plugtrak. That gives me the whole 36' wall space covered with outlets and three 220v outlets spaced out on the wall. Not sure how many circuits code is going to force me to use.

Was at a friends house last summer -- his concrete outbuilding was wired (inspected) with EMT drops on the wall -- they just used regular romex along the ceiling into the EMT drop to the surface box. He had a bunch of power strips to increase his outlets .. think the raceway is better.

 

[kd3pc]

SIPS should have vertical channels every so often, that terminate top or bottom of the panel to a horizontal chase..unless they are left over roof panels or some such.

Any way of checking with the maker of the SIP? Before you do the SM stuff?

 

[yeldogt]

No, mine does not have channels. It was built by the previous owner of the property. It was built about 20 years ago. Not much to it -- three windows on one side and a set of double 4x8 doors made out of the panels on the end .. concrete floor. 8" thick -- like a thermos.

 

[manwithtools]

Sounds interesting, do you have any pictures of the inside of that structure?

 

[matt_i]

It seems like the code is going to put you at 10 outlets max downstream of a GFCI controller. They might not be allowed if the -TR (tamper resistant) outlets are required in your locality.

I am familiar with the plugmold (but think the plug track is probably a higher quality made by Hubbell) and they seem to be internally wired for either 15A or 20A depending on wire gauge. Like any multi-outlet circuit they can be overloaded with the right combination of things.

What I would try to do is wire each "track" on a single circuit. That way if you know you are using 2 heavy-amp-draw devices, then just plug one into one track and one into another track. The rest can be used for convenience. Alternatively, if you have loads that you know are going to be high-draw (thinking microwave, beer fridge, etc) then try to place single, dedicated-circuit outlets for those, which could be integrated anywhere into an EMT system.

 

[yeldogt]

Sounds interesting, do you have any pictures of the inside of that structure?

Not with me.

The panels come with the foam sandwiched between two sheets of OSB -- drywall attached at the factory. The panels have 2x8's inset around the edges. I believe it's all assembled with the foam holding it together.

The 4x12 wall panels are just stacked upright down the line -- same with the roof. Building has pipe/ rod connecting the walls -- keeping them plum. I'm not sure how long the roof panels are -- it's a steep pitched roof

They cut the holes for the windows and doors. I believe the seams are all foamed as they go together -- I'm not sure how they are connected together or how the roof panels attach to the walls

 

[yeldogt]

It seems like the code is going to put you at 10 outlets max downstream of a GFCI controller. They might not be allowed if the -TR (tamper resistant) outlets are required in your locality.

I am familiar with the plugmold (but think the plug track is probably a higher quality made by Hubbell) and they seem to be internally wired for either 15A or 20A depending on wire gauge. Like any multi-outlet circuit they can be overloaded with the right combination of things.

What I would try to do is wire each "track" on a single circuit. That way if you know you are using 2 heavy-amp-draw devices, then just plug one into one track and one into another track. The rest can be used for convenience. Alternatively, if you have loads that you know are going to be high-draw (thinking microwave, beer fridge, etc) then try to place single, dedicated-circuit outlets for those, which could be integrated anywhere into an EMT system.

The Hubbell Plugtrak is plastic -- I was wondering about the typical 10 outlet limit per circuit. Never gave tamper resistance a thought -- is that code for a garage/outbuilding? believe they are 20amp outlets. I think having a continuous loop of the outlets would be nicer vs having say .. 4 drops per wall.

They have the ability to run I think 2 THHN wires under the outlets for second circuit or dedicated ground.

 

[checkthisout]

Use EMT with 3/4" conduit and run mwbc's for your 120 stuff. You'll have a ton of circuits for much less cost. Use 2 gang boxes at your drops. Want more circuits down the road? Just pull more wire.

 

[yeldogt]

Sorry -- what is MWBC's. I already have the Plugtrak .. I got 12 of them for $150 bucks

 

[penright]

Sorry -- what is MWBC's. I already have the Plugtrak .. I got 12 of them for $150 bucks

You might want to look at my there here. http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=348687
I think you are getting ready to ask a lot of the same questions, which is ok, but it might also save you some time.

 

[alfredeneuman]

I was wondering about the typical 10 outlet limit per circuit.

Fixed Multioutlet Assemblies (plugmold), if you're going to be using multiple outlets at once, by Code, you must figure 180VA (1.5 Amps @ 120V) per foot.

If you expect to just use one at a time, you can increase the distance to 1.5 Amps per 5 feet.

 

[sberry]

Save some greif and figure out where you actually need 240 vs just snatching it from the wind.