Planning a 28x36x14 Garage Need Help.

[Low50s]

Hello everyone, I need some help the wife and I are in the beginning stages of planning our garage.

last year we wanted to put up a 40x16x16 but life got crazy and now we have a infant and a million other things going on.

we want to or would like a 28x36x14 garage this will be detached from the house and about 45 yards away. I want to get some estimates from builders but I want to have everything squared away to get accurate est.

My biggest thing is the concrete, do I plan the building post frame or do I plan stick build? I am located in NE I dont want to have issues with doors not closing right or large gaps, could I pour a pad 5" deep then make a 2'x2' "footer" then build on top of the pad or do I have to plant post then pour pad?

the walls I want 14" to have an attic space 3 garage doors or 2 one wide and one smaller

I guess what is everyone's thoughts if you were to build how would you do it?

I am looking to be budget friendly, I want to do as much as I can myself, I know that the concrete work will have to be hired out. if I do post frame I can dig post or I can use backhoe to do as much dirtwork as I need.

just trying to get everything squared away for quotes I am hoping that this summer get started I am sorry if this is all jumbled just have everything jumping around in my head and trying to get it all out and planned. Thanks everyone

 

[Richard Cranium]

I would build a stick built shop if it was me. Pour your footing and then pour your floor.

 

[Low50s]

I would build a stick built shop if it was me. Pour your footing and then pour your floor.

So you would do the pad in 2 pours ? I was just thinking if I did a large monolithic slab that the 2x2 foot footer would be enough or do you think I am asking for trouble? As far as soil it's all black dirt farmground, the ground is all tiled

 

[rburke65]

Do you have to pull build permits? If so they will tell you about your footers and more. I'd stick build. "Budget Friendly"? ......ya....that won't happen.......we don't know YOUR budget but this will cost you 100% more than you think. A lot of the build process I discovered that it was less expensive to hire it out. Insulation was one.

 

[Low50s]

Do you have to pull build permits? If so they will tell you about your footers and more. I'd stick build. "Budget Friendly"? ......ya....that won't happen.......we don't know YOUR budget but this will cost you 100% more than you think. A lot of the build process I discovered that it was less expensive to hire it out. Insulation was one.

In my county I do not have to pull building permits if I lived in town it would be different still no zoning process just have to have city council approval

Yes some would get hired out but most I will do myself when the funds allow I don't want to sell organs to build this I have a few calls into lumber yards for material quotes

As I stated in the original post I'm still trying to decide stick over post frame my biggest thing is I want attic trusses to keep from having wasted space above which will be nice for all the stuff i seem to keep collecting

 

[Low50s]

Wife and I finely came up with a finial decision on what our building plan is going to be.

We are going to do a Menards post frame building 30x36x14 built on top of a monolithic slab 6" thick reinforced

for the building we are doing 6ft post spacing installed onto the slab. 4 windows, 1 16x8 garage door and one 10x10 and one service door.

we have some friends that say that we can do the cement but I think that will still be something I will hire out. but the building I plan on installing myself.

when the snow melts and I can start preparing the site I want to do all the dirtwork myself and get it ready as much as I can

 

[Ray916MN]

Huh??? As I understand post frame construction, the posts need to be sunk to below the frost line and in some cases need to sit on a footing biscuit. The concrete floor of the building is typically poured after the building is sheathed and the skirt boards are used as the form for the floor. A substantial amount of the strength of a post building comes from the tension that the outside sheathing can exert on the poles because they are buried in the ground. How does this would work with the posts sitting on a slab even if they were attached?

 

[TractorJeff]

In his first post he says, he can dig post holes for a pole building. I just question why needs 6" of concrete for the floor? Or maybe I am not reading post six correctly?

 

[Firebrick43]

Ray is correct, you can not just take a pole building designed to have its poles in the ground and place it on top of a slab. It will just blow over. It can be engineered to work but would require much if not all the walls sheathed in ply/osb, especially in nebraska.

Not sure what you are trying to infer Low50 about gaps in the door?? Pole buildings have floating slabs(should not be allowed to key to the post. The Doors should be attached to the poles. If you place 8-12" of crushed stone under the slab, it has good drainage, and water is sloped away from the building, you will have no frost heave and the doors will maintain thier position in relation to the slab. Problem is most pour the floating slab directly on dirt.

 

[House]

If this is a post building then the posts must be in the ground,and be below the frost line. They should all sit on a slab of concrete about 12x12x8 inches at least. Back filling the holes and tamping in usually crushed rock or pea gravel. These factors will all depend on the climate and soil conditions in your area.
Once the posts are all set then the perlins can be installed and secured to the poles including the very bottom row which is usually a P.T. 2x8 or 2x10 that acts as the bottom perlin and concrete form.

 

[Low50s]

Huh??? As I understand post frame construction, the posts need to be sunk to below the frost line and in some cases need to sit on a footing biscuit. The concrete floor of the building is typically poured after the building is sheathed and the skirt boards are used as the form for the floor. A substantial amount of the strength of a post building comes from the tension that the outside sheathing can exert on the poles because they are buried in the ground. How does this would work with the posts sitting on a slab even if they were attached?

Sorry that I may have caused confusion I plan on using anchors similar to this

http://www.menards.com/main/buildin...?tid=-4712950921069743906&bargainStoreId=3040

I have called a few building companies and they recommended using these and I have seen a few buildings built using this system. I actually know 2 buildings currently going using this system of anchor. using these will prevent post rot and keep the building tied to the slab so I wont have to worry about issues such as doors not closing due to freeze/thaw shifting. all the soil is tiled farm ground (black dirt) and will have a fair amount of compacted rock under the concrete when it is poured.


I am planning on 6" reinforced cement because I plan on installing 2 post lift. and I do lots of work on vehicles and equipment


Firebrick- This building has been engineered to use this type of anchor system is what I have been told when designing the building. (Midwest manufacturing is the designer) they sell the menards kits

I hope this may clear up some of the questions.

 

[astroracer]

Save yourself some money right at the start. Most lift manufacturers require a minimum of 4" of 3,000 to 4,000 psi concrete. 6" is overkill and more money spent then is needed, especially if you do the whole floor. The lift is a localized load so the whole floor doesn't need to be 6". 4" will do the job though.
Peel out all of the topsoil and bring in enough fill to get the floor 6" or so above grade level. That will keep rain water and snow melt out of the shop.
Put the hoist at least 6' off the wall. That gives you room to work and walk around it with a vehicle in the air and for benches on the wall.
A 36' barn is only 35' on the inside. One 16' and one 10' door take up 26' of that, leaving you with9' to split between the end walls and doors. That's only 3' between the doors and the gable end walls. Consider putting the 16' door 6' from one gable end and the 10' on the opposite gable end, 6' off the opposite wall. Lots of room between the doors and the walls is much better then no room.
Design your barn here:
http://www.fbibuildings.com/planning-tools/pole-barn-design-tool
Mark

 

[matt_i]

I will say this. I have some 10,000 lb machines moved with an 11,500# forklift and I poured a 6" floor, albeit with a half ton of rebar.

I would shoot for a 4 inch minimum slab, save your thickened edges. If you want to be better prepped put another 1" of washed limestone 3/4" into the base, and compact it in 2 lifts.

I would be a little concerned about the building corners with those T-shaped brackets. The concrete is going to be weaker there.

I would look into perma-columns.

Make sure your trusses and their spacing is future-proofed for any covering you intend to put on the ceiling. I'd spec for 5/8" drywall or around 10psf BCDL (bottom chord dea d load) and then you are pretty much covered for anything else.

I would also digest the information found in a search of "frost protected shallow foundation". If the prep is followed carefully you won't have problems with frost-heave on a 12" deep foundation, even if you never heat the space. I would be concerned about heave in an area that's drain tiled as it would suggest the soil gets saturated with groundwater and can't release it. If it gets frozen then it is going to expand notably.

 

[Low50s]

thank you matt I will do some checking into that frost protected shallow foundation and do some reading on that to help with the slab.

Thank You astro I will keep that in mind about door spacing I will see if maybe I can shift the doors a bit but due to the location I have to put it on my property I am unable to put it on the endwalls as I would be unable to pull into and out of the doors if it is on the endwall

as far as the use of the garage. my wifes subaru will find a home in the garage, along with our family vehicle 2014 Silverado LTZ and my project 51 Ford and my toolboxes I have a small 8x12 shed that most of our lawn and garden equipment go in

I agree I have the ability to do as much base as I want as a neighbor has a dirtwork company and I can have him haul as much rock as I need. I will have to just rent something to compact the rock.

If I can do 4" of slab that would save quite abit of money as it would bring total yards down quite a bit.

 

[House]

Sorry that I may have caused confusion I plan on using anchors similar to this

http://www.menards.com/main/buildin...?tid=-4712950921069743906&bargainStoreId=3040

I have called a few building companies and they recommended using these and I have seen a few buildings built using this system. I actually know 2 buildings currently going using this system of anchor. using these will prevent post rot and keep the building tied to the slab so I wont have to worry about issues such as doors not closing due to freeze/thaw shifting. all the soil is tiled farm ground (black dirt) and will have a fair amount of compacted rock under the concrete when it is poured.


I am planning on 6" reinforced cement because I plan on installing 2 post lift. and I do lots of work on vehicles and equipment


Firebrick- This building has been engineered to use this type of anchor system is what I have been told when designing the building. (Midwest manufacturing is the designer) they sell the menards kits

I hope this may clear up some of the questions.

So why not frame this in a normal 2x6 or 2x4 wall framing system instead of the brackets and posts?

 

[Low50s]

House, I have planned on doing it that way due to the fact the only way I have gotten a estimate and idea on cost of building is post frame, I have contacted a few builders. along with a few lumberyards that they asked me all the details for the building I want windows, doors ect. and told me they would give me a free material estimate and plans yet no reply and no answers to my attempts to contact them.
So being that I want to build myself I still would like some kind of plan or blueprint to follow none of the stick built contacts have not gotten back to me.

otherwise I am 100% game for building either post frame or stick built.

 

[Adittmer]

We went with these. Perma columns. 3ply 2x8" for ours. Only way to build a post frame building in my mind!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[House]

House, I have planned on doing it that way due to the fact the only way I have gotten a estimate and idea on cost of building is post frame, I have contacted a few builders. along with a few lumberyards that they asked me all the details for the building I want windows, doors ect. and told me they would give me a free material estimate and plans yet no reply and no answers to my attempts to contact them.
So being that I want to build myself I still would like some kind of plan or blueprint to follow none of the stick built contacts have not gotten back to me.

otherwise I am 100% game for building either post frame or stick built.

Makes sense, was just wondering. I have never seen a post building on a pad so was not sure of your thinking.

 

[Low50s]

I have gotten my first reply from someone on concrete work and HOLY guy must have thought I was asking for something filled with gold.

I was quoted $10,800 for 30x40x5 with outside being 24x24 deep 1/2" rebar @24OC no fill was included

I knew concrete was going to be expensive but I was figuring around a 6k price

that is going to eat up way more of the budget than I thought I need to call and get a few more estimates also I am unsure if I need the full 24x24 footer I have been told a 12x12 would be plenty

 

[House]

That actually sounds pretty good to me. Where I live a person would pay at least that much for that size. changing the thickened edge will probably save you about 1500$. I'm not sure of your soil conditions there but here most thickened edges in slabs are only 12x12.

 

[Low50s]

I thought maybe it was high when I got a quote for a 40x60 slab 1.5yrs ago at 6" I was quoted 12600

 

[73RR]

Have you looked at the building packages that Home Depot sells?
They have several sizes and might even modify to your needs.
As for concrete, make damned sure it is done right. A frost protected shallow foundation should be all that you need, again it has to be done right.
Adding additional concrete depth is not a bad idea and is not necessarily a waste of money as it will make the entire slab stronger, same with using plenty of rebar that you could place yourself.
Have the contractor do the excavation and forming then get in there and place the insulation and rebar then do the mud.
Shop around for a concrete sub if the quote seems high. Ask for sub referrals at the concrete ready mix supplier.

 

[Low50s]

Have you looked at the building packages that Home Depot sells?
They have several sizes and might even modify to your needs.
As for concrete, make damned sure it is done right. A frost protected shallow foundation should be all that you need, again it has to be done right.
Adding additional concrete depth is not a bad idea and is not necessarily a waste of money as it will make the entire slab stronger, same with using plenty of rebar that you could place yourself.
Have the contractor do the excavation and forming then get in there and place the insulation and rebar then do the mud.
Shop around for a concrete sub if the quote seems high. Ask for sub referrals at the concrete ready mix supplier.

I have looked slightly at the home depot kits the only thing that I didnt like from them was wall height. I really wanted tall enough to use a hoist and lift my Silverado my wifes Subaru doesnt need much

Other thing was I have steel roofing on my house and I want the garage to have steel roofing also. and we are doing new vinyl siding this year so the siding would have to match if I were to do siding otherwise barn tin is perfectly fine for us esp living right in the middle of farm country

 

[73RR]

From what I understand from the website, making some changes should be doable. You might ask at the Pro-Desk and see if anyone has a clue...after all, they are selling them and the material is pulled from the local store.
The best part of the package is the stamped drawings, everything else is a standard pile of sticks and nails.
Be sure to let us know if you get any details.

 

[terabitdan]

If you want to build it yourself I'd also consider Versatube. We considered them for our garage, but due to our zoning limits went with a gambrel style stick built.

For your size it's $13k and easy to assemble yourself.


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[Low50s]

If you want to build it yourself I'd also consider Versatube. We considered them for our garage, but due to our zoning limits went with a gambrel style stick built.

For your size it's $13k and easy to assemble yourself.


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Yeah for my size its $13,*** but that does not include the service door or the 2 overhead doors my Menards design was 10,8xx and included doors. ect. I actually considered a versatube but I had a friend talk me out of one. If I could view a versatube first hand I may have considered it more. I would also be worried about mounting stuff to the walls with something like that I wouldnt want to overload the tubes.

 

[House]

I know this is an old post now but how did you make out with the build LOW50s?