checkthisout
Well-known member
- Joined
- Sep 5, 2008
- Messages
- 5,232
Questions about Shop Wiring/Breakers, and Outlets
- Thread starter bobinyelm
- Start date
coljar
Well-known member
I was only required to get a building permit and I was pissed it was $22. After reading this, I don't feel so bad.
My Old Tools
Well-known member
You (or your neighbors) voted for that ****. All I can say is sell it and move somewhere sane, like Texas. My wife's (dead) gopher count is 116 in 6 years on a 2 acre lot. They are pretty rare now.
My Old Tools
Well-known member
East Texas has hills, but it will still be hot in July and August. Trust me, that **** will eventually bankrupt the state, just like California. Just think how it will effect your ability to retire someday.
wyliesdiesels
Well-known member
Wow.
U guys are in the exact opposite position.
Down here there isnt enough work sometimes so many tradesman have moved on.
And now were starting to see a shift where there isnt enough skilled workers.
davetulk
Well-known member
holy cow....30k is nuts. Here in Florida the "impact fees" can get up that high but only if you develop on a piece of land that is undeveloped/not connected to infrastructure and requires city/county infrastructure. Also if your development means things like road changes to existing road etc.
If just a new house build with no infrastructure work permits like $150. Now all the engineering that needs to be done to submit a set of plans is another story
If just a new house build with no infrastructure work permits like $150. Now all the engineering that needs to be done to submit a set of plans is another story
Just came from meeting with my State Electrical Inspector and asked my questions.
Some insights-
1) Every single circuit in the entire shop needs to be GFI, even the overhead lighting circuits.
2) Every outlet EXCEPT the ceiling lighting circuits must use TR Receptacles, and that includes the door opener outlets.
3) No interior lighting should be controlled by a circuit that powers any receptacle.
4) No exterior lighting circuit (regardless of height above ground) may be hooked to a circuit supplying interior service, even though that circuit is GFI'd.
4a) Exterior circuits must be a dedicated outdoor circuit, period. To avoid having a separate circuit just to power ONE light bulb above the entry door (required) that may require a GFI breaker and 75ft of cable (potentially $50 in parts just to power a single light bulb), you MAY install a proper outdoor receptacle (GFI), and power the light bulb from that circuit, though it is discouraged), which at least blunts the cost for that circuit.
5) All wiring below 8ft above any accessible by a human must be "protected" either in conduit, by being armored cable (BX), or protected by mounting method.
You can install NMC (Romex) without conduit IF it is stapled UNDER* a purlin (skirting board) in a pole building, or of course, if it is behind a sheet rocked wall.
(stapling cable to the UNDERSIDE of a purlin is considered "protected," while on the top side is NOT "protected," though stapling on the top side of a purlin is fine if it's above 8ft.
"Accessible by a human" could be an area used for storage only, even if accessible by stairs or a ladder.
6) NO circuits in a detached shop needs to have an AFCI (arc fault breaker).
I asked about running conduit to avoid drilling a hole in a pole (post). The answer was, "Why don't you want to drill a hole in your pole (post)?" He said that as long as holes are drilled according to recommended criteria, the frame is not measurably weakened. He said drilling a single 3/4" hole through an 8"X8" beam using "common sense" is not a problem compared to using conduit for one's entire shop (unless one really WANTS to install it). A personal decision, though of course it would depend upon your building department, and whether paying a P.E a few hundred dollars (one hou's time) is worth it.
The one question I forgot to ask (I will try calling during the inspector's 30 minute allowable window every other day to ask) is whether one can run wire NOT in conduit above 8ft, then have it enter conduit at that level, terminating in a box below 8ft.
I am not saying what I was told was correct, only that that is what I was told by the inspector assigned to me (who has 30 years experience) will be looking for, so I am building to HIS code, rather than a code I looked up myself, so Caveat Emptor. My inspector could be wrong, and your Code may vary by area.
Some insights-
1) Every single circuit in the entire shop needs to be GFI, even the overhead lighting circuits.
2) Every outlet EXCEPT the ceiling lighting circuits must use TR Receptacles, and that includes the door opener outlets.
3) No interior lighting should be controlled by a circuit that powers any receptacle.
4) No exterior lighting circuit (regardless of height above ground) may be hooked to a circuit supplying interior service, even though that circuit is GFI'd.
4a) Exterior circuits must be a dedicated outdoor circuit, period. To avoid having a separate circuit just to power ONE light bulb above the entry door (required) that may require a GFI breaker and 75ft of cable (potentially $50 in parts just to power a single light bulb), you MAY install a proper outdoor receptacle (GFI), and power the light bulb from that circuit, though it is discouraged), which at least blunts the cost for that circuit.
5) All wiring below 8ft above any accessible by a human must be "protected" either in conduit, by being armored cable (BX), or protected by mounting method.
You can install NMC (Romex) without conduit IF it is stapled UNDER* a purlin (skirting board) in a pole building, or of course, if it is behind a sheet rocked wall.
(stapling cable to the UNDERSIDE of a purlin is considered "protected," while on the top side is NOT "protected," though stapling on the top side of a purlin is fine if it's above 8ft.
"Accessible by a human" could be an area used for storage only, even if accessible by stairs or a ladder.
6) NO circuits in a detached shop needs to have an AFCI (arc fault breaker).
I asked about running conduit to avoid drilling a hole in a pole (post). The answer was, "Why don't you want to drill a hole in your pole (post)?" He said that as long as holes are drilled according to recommended criteria, the frame is not measurably weakened. He said drilling a single 3/4" hole through an 8"X8" beam using "common sense" is not a problem compared to using conduit for one's entire shop (unless one really WANTS to install it). A personal decision, though of course it would depend upon your building department, and whether paying a P.E a few hundred dollars (one hou's time) is worth it.
The one question I forgot to ask (I will try calling during the inspector's 30 minute allowable window every other day to ask) is whether one can run wire NOT in conduit above 8ft, then have it enter conduit at that level, terminating in a box below 8ft.
I am not saying what I was told was correct, only that that is what I was told by the inspector assigned to me (who has 30 years experience) will be looking for, so I am building to HIS code, rather than a code I looked up myself, so Caveat Emptor. My inspector could be wrong, and your Code may vary by area.