What jacks are you using with your 4 post lift?

[767Jockey]

I have a 4 post lift with a heavy duty sliding jack tray. Being the cheapo that I am, I don't want to fork out the bucks for a proper sliding jack. They're all darned near the thousand dollar mark, and I have too many things I can better use the thousand dollars for.

I have a couple of the smallest bottle jacks from Harbor Freight, but they sometimes don't work to well on jacking up the car to remove wheels, etc on the four post lift, because the chassis/jacking points are too far outboard on the lift to get the bottle jacks under the point to be lifted. This is a long winded way of asking what you guys are doing and using for this purpose?

 

[LXCam]

Well I use a RJ45 but when I need to do weird **** I use regular screw type scissor jacks from a car. What I like about them is they're slender and will fit in places where bottle jacks of equal height potential have bases that are too big. But obviously you need a larger jack for your application. I would suggest a 5k with a double ram so you have a combination of a short jack that'll teach high enough to be effective. Let me see what I can search out for ya.

Here ya go, there's several types: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BFNCOA/?tag=atomicindus08-20

 

[767Jockey]

Well I use a RJ45 but when I need to do weird **** I use regular screw type scissor jacks from a car. What I like about them is they're slender and will fit in places where bottle jacks of equal height potential have bases that are too big. But obviously you need a larger jack for your application. I would suggest a 5k with a double ram so you have a combination of a short jack that'll teach high enough to be effective. Let me see what I can search out for ya.

Here ya go, there's several types: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BFNCOA/?tag=atomicindus08-20

I appreciate the input. Problem is I already have bottle jacks, on some cars the jack points lie in a precarious half way point between the outer edges of the sliding tray and the inner edge of the ramp. It's impossible to get a bottle or scissor jack under the point, as there is no flat surface to sit the base on.

Best solution I guess is some sort of jack that'll sit solidly on the sliding try, but with arms that extend outward like a proper sliding jack. Anyone ever seen anything like this?

 

[Z2V]

RJ-45 here also.
I do agree they are grossly overpriced.

 

[ms fowler]

The salesman for my 4 post lift ( Being installed today!!) had a pretty good suggestion. Get 2 of the tall tripod jacks ( $65 or so each from HF with 20% coupon, or about $100 from other vendors.) Raise the vehicle on the 4 post, and place the jacks to support it, lower the vehicle until the wheels hang free, then insert a cut 6X6 post under the jacking points and then raise the lift, and remove the tripod jacks. The blocks will support the vehicle, and are out of the way. Cut different height 6X6 pieces for different vehicles and label them so you know what each is for. Cheap, stable, adaptable to all vehicles, and allows suspension work like on a 2 post. Whats not to like.

 

[LXCam]

I appreciate the input. Problem is I already have bottle jacks, on some cars the jack points lie in a precarious half way point between the outer edges of the sliding tray and the inner edge of the ramp. It's impossible to get a bottle or scissor jack under the point, as there is no flat surface to sit the base on.

Best solution I guess is some sort of jack that'll sit solidly on the sliding try, but with arms that extend outward like a proper sliding jack. Anyone ever seen anything like this?

Ya I understand the dilemma. If you have the ability to fabricate metal I'd suggest adding some square tubing and top plate to your slider that sits flush with your ramps so you can split the area the jack base sits on.

 

[LX-Markham]

The salesman for my 4 post lift ( Being installed today!!) had a pretty good suggestion. Get 2 of the tall tripod jacks ( $65 or so each from HF with 20% coupon, or about $100 from other vendors.) Raise the vehicle on the 4 post, and place the jacks to support it, lower the vehicle until the wheels hang free, then insert a cut 6X6 post under the jacking points and then raise the lift, and remove the tripod jacks. The blocks will support the vehicle, and are out of the way. Cut different height 6X6 pieces for different vehicles and label them so you know what each is for. Cheap, stable, adaptable to all vehicles, and allows suspension work like on a 2 post. Whats not to like.

maybe I need a diagram, but this method scares the **** out of me.

 

[mikegt4]

maybe I need a diagram, but this method scares the **** out of me.

Same here, it sounds like the vehicle is supported by posts standing on end!!!
You could do the same thing without having to spend $3-4K on a lift and no ceiling clearance issues to deal with.

I would leave the tripod jacks in place and forget the posts.

 

[ms fowler]

maybe I need a diagram, but this method scares the **** out of me.

Yes, as I understand it, the 6X6 posts are on end, but they are short--like 4" to 6" or so. I haven't actually tried it as my lift delivery was delayed due to the snow that hit the east coast Wed-Thur. Didn't get a lot at my place, but enough to make access bad. Wait for the thaw and dry.

 

[James E]

767 Jockey, the jack "tray" on my BendPak HD9 is the same height as the rails, so when I have to place a jack partly on the tray and partly on the rail, it causes me no issues. Am I right in thinking that your jack tray is at a height that is different from your rails?

If so, can you either get a tray that is the same height, or can you grind (if too high) or add a spacer (if too low) that puts the tray height at the same level as the rails?

It seems a little silly to me that a company would make a jack tray that doesn't line up with the rail.

 

[ssffnomad]

Made a Jack tray for BYB. It's either flush with ramps or flipped over and 2 1/2" lower than top of ramp.

 

[teamgomez]

Being the cheapo that I am, I don't want to fork out the bucks for a proper sliding jack.

Guessing CA on the 76...come on...pick up a trip and get the jack!

Great question, tho. Same boat here. Getting a Bendpak lift in the mancave and facing same dilemma. I like the idea of the tripod jacks but not the clutter from the extra gear. Still chewing on this one...

 

[tfalk]

I have a different 4 post... Not sure if it will help you, I cut a couple of 6x6 blocks down so they are the same height as the jack tray lip where it goes over the edge of the ramp. That way the block and the lip of the jack tray become a wider flat piece and I can usually fit a small scissor jack on top of.

 

[jimchevy]

The salesman for my 4 post lift ( Being installed today!!) had a pretty good suggestion. Get 2 of the tall tripod jacks ( $65 or so each from HF with 20% coupon, or about $100 from other vendors.) Raise the vehicle on the 4 post, and place the jacks to support it, lower the vehicle until the wheels hang free, then insert a cut 6X6 post under the jacking points and then raise the lift, and remove the tripod jacks. The blocks will support the vehicle, and are out of the way. Cut different height 6X6 pieces for different vehicles and label them so you know what each is for. Cheap, stable, adaptable to all vehicles, and allows suspension work like on a 2 post. Whats not to like.

I'm planning to use the same install company as you! PM sent

 

[richy_21]

The salesman for my 4 post lift ( Being installed today!!) had a pretty good suggestion. Get 2 of the tall tripod jacks ( $65 or so each from HF with 20% coupon, or about $100 from other vendors.) Raise the vehicle on the 4 post, and place the jacks to support it, lower the vehicle until the wheels hang free, then insert a cut 6X6 post under the jacking points and then raise the lift, and remove the tripod jacks. The blocks will support the vehicle, and are out of the way. Cut different height 6X6 pieces for different vehicles and label them so you know what each is for. Cheap, stable, adaptable to all vehicles, and allows suspension work like on a 2 post. Whats not to like.

Did you end up doing this??

 

[Junkman]

I have an assortment of 2x6 wood that I place under the rocker panels after I raise the car to the height I want on the lift. Then I push my rolling jace to the front of the car and do the same thing. Then I push the jack to the rear out of the way so I don't hit my head on it.

 

[Ztim]

I have an Atlas 4 post lift with an RJ35 sliding Jack. It works very well for what I need. I can Jack up the back half, put on jack stands on the ramp, and then Jack up the front of the car on the bridge Jack. Perfect! I could do two bridge jacks, but that would take up too much space. I don‘t thing the $1100 price for the bridge jack is out of line. Well worth it IMHO.

 

[Jetfixr320]

I have a 4 post lift with a heavy duty sliding jack tray. Being the cheapo that I am, I don't want to fork out the bucks for a proper sliding jack. They're all darned near the thousand dollar mark, and I have too many things I can better use the thousand dollars for.

I have a couple of the smallest bottle jacks from Harbor Freight, but they sometimes don't work to well on jacking up the car to remove wheels, etc on the four post lift, because the chassis/jacking points are too far outboard on the lift to get the bottle jacks under the point to be lifted. This is a long winded way of asking what you guys are doing and using for this purpose?

FO for Atlas? You can pop for a proper jack. Stop being cheap.

Scissor jack could work as well.

 

[finn]

I have a pneumatic sliding jack on one, and yes, they’re expensive. The other has a long term 36 Ford project sitting on three wheels and a bottle jack supporting the axle housing. There’s also a small jack stand on that corner.

I’ve also been known to just use a common aluminum Harbor Freight “racing” floor jack set on the ramps, specifically thr 1 1/2 ton version. Mine was on sale for $59 on sale a number of years ago, but now they’re commonly $79 or $99.

They’re light and compact, and strong enough to lift a corner of a car. it’s the jack with one handle on the side. I suppose a larger aluminum or even steel floor jack would work, but compact and light are good features in this case. A small jack stand for safety is good insurance.

 

[Skyman]

I have an assortment of scissor jacks that I saved from vehicles that were scrapped. They come in quite handy. With jackstands, of course.

 

[racecougar]

Bridge jacks have gone up in price since the start of this thread (2017).

I run two 3500lb sliding bridge jacks on my 4-post. They work great.

 

[kngelv]

Bridge jacks have gone up in price since the start of this thread (2017).

I run two 3500lb sliding bridge jacks on my 4-post. They work great.

Yes they have. I paid a little over $2K for mine last year. I have one jack and two bridge trays which is very versatile.

James

 

[c39er]

I have two RJ7 jacks on my extra long 19' HD 14 lift.
Jacks are stored at each end when not needed.
I want a safe easy lifting piece of equipment.

 

[Ztim]

This is the one I have. It’s $1,149 on Amazon with free shipping. The LTL truck brought it to my driveway and pallet-jacked into my garage.

 

[Ztim]

This is the one I have. It’s still $1,149 on Amazon with free shipping. The LTL truck brought it to my driveway and pallet-jacked into my garage.