Morton shed doors...why do they leak?

[weatherby460]

I had a Morton shed built, and the door leaks. Morton has been out 3 times, and finally said its because the threshold is attached to the cement and no more adjustment can be made. The bottom left of the door is higher then the bottom right side. I think I can also feel a draft around the door when its windy. Can a replacement door from menards be installed to fix my issue?

Thanks

 

[LXCam]

Pull the threshold and using a entire tube of caulking bed it in place.

 

[AndyCBR]

There are a couple of issues that can make doors like this leak.

1) The threshold should be embedded in caulk to the slab.

2) On the outside I like to remove the weatherstrips and caulk the door jamb and threshold interface. Once you take the vertical kerf weatherstripping loose you will see where if water runs down it is driven into the interface of the threshold and the jamb.

3) A rubber sweep on the outside to just overlap the bottom of the door and the threshold interface can't hurt.

This is actually a common problem in residential style doors. It's why you'll almost always see a door under an overhang, porch, or alcove.

 

[MikeF]

I agree, our biggest repair on commercial doors comes when water seeps under the threshold. Most people throw a sweep at it but don't dive further. You Will never stop water coming over the threshold in most cases. It always comes under unless you caulk it. I burn a tube of sealant for every 36 inches in width. Residential doors are alittle different as the threshold is attached to the Frame underneath.

I'd caulk as described above, if you can't get under the threshold just caulk along the face of it and see if it helps.

 

[Pig9r]

Why isn't Morton replacing it? For what you likely paid, you shouldn't be shy about escalating the issue.

 

[ard]

Why isn't Morton replacing it? For what you likely paid, you shouldn't be shy about escalating the issue.

This.

"Well then, tear it down and rebuild it right"

 

[weatherby460]

They said because the threshold is attached to the cement that they cant.....the shed was built...then the cement was poured...I guess they think the cement is stuck to the threshold.

 

[coljar]

I agree with what the others said above about caulking, but I don't think you should be doing it. Call and tell them you don't care what it takes to make it right and if they don't, you'll take it above them. You paid more to have the best and now they have to prove it.

 

[ard]

They said because the threshold is attached to the cement that they cant.....the shed was built...then the cement was poured...I guess they think the cement is stuck to the threshold.

You seem to be mixing up contract law and your legal rights, with technical whatevers they are spitting back.

Either they are legally responsible for stopping a leak, or not. If they are, the reasons it will be difficult are simply not your problem

Understand?

 

[MikeF2316]

I'd be interested to see a picture of the other side. Does water drain away from the door, or does it just sit there. I like to see a slight slope away from any building.

 

[weatherby460]

I'd be interested to see a picture of the other side. Does water drain away from the door, or does it just sit there. I like to see a slight slope away from any building.

I will post a picture of the front tomorrow....I will try one more time dealing with Morton.

 

[LXCam]

I will post a picture of the front tomorrow....I will try one more time dealing with Morton.

Who poured the concrete. Their contractor or did you hire them. If it was their sub it's their responsibility if you hire him it's yours since the pour occurred after erection and door placement.

 

[weatherby460]

Here are a couple pics from the outside.

 

[MikeF2316]

Here are a couple pics from the outside.

So if you poured a cup of water in the foreground of those pictures, about a foot from the door, where would it flow?

I'm thinking you might just need to caulk between the outside concrete and the sill we can see. It would still be better if the water flowed away from the door, though.

 

[weatherby460]

The weather finally is above freezing, so tomorrow I will have the wife spray it down while I stand inside.

 

[LB-1911]

The weather finally is above freezing, so tomorrow I will have the wife spray it down while I stand inside.

Before you break out the hose consider starting w/ Mike's suggestion.

So if you poured a cup of water in the foreground of those pictures, about a foot from the door, where would it flow?

I'm thinking you might just need to caulk between the outside concrete and the sill we can see. It would still be better if the water flowed away from the door, though.

Good Luck & Keep us posted

 

[LS6 Tommy]

The water isn't coming in UNDER the threshold, it's coming in under the door, OVER the threshold. I don't see a weather seal on the bottom of the door. That's a simple fix...

Tommy

 

[n20junkie]

It won't help the OP, but when we did my pad, I had them put a lowered sill like you see for garage doors. The door threshold sits down 3/4 from the main pad, and it keeps water from getting in.

It's something to consider for future builders.

 

[lakeroadster]

Bad Design.. The Leak Is Inevitable.

ounds like this is a slab on grade, poles into the ground barn, since you said "the shed was built...then the cement was poured". So in this case they poured the slab under wooden framing components and under the door.... not good.

This means when the ground under the slab freezes and lifts the slab it will try to lift the building.

When it thaws the slab will drop, the door won't drop, it can't, it's attached to the barn framing. Therefore there will be a gap under the threshold.

Unfortunately this is just a bad design.



FWIW, for other guys designing or building a pole barn with a floating slab, if the man door is installed as shown in the photo's, the door attaches to the building, including attaching the threshold to the pressure treated splash boards and composite threshold, not the slab.

It won't help the OP, but when we did my pad, I had them put a lowered sill like you see for garage doors. The door threshold sits down 3/4 from the main pad, and it keeps water from getting in.

It's something to consider for future builders.

That's a good idea, but it won't work on a door that opens inward like the OP has.

 

[weatherby460]

Here is a pick of the weather seal....I think the water is hitting the top of the sill...then running into the building....I think its a crappy design for a weather seal.

 

[LS6 Tommy]

Here is a pick of the weather seal....I think the water is hitting the top of the sill...then running into the building....I think its a crappy design for a weather seal.

OK, I see the seal now. Can you see light under the door? Then it's not doing anything. Can you put a bulb seal on the door? If the treshold is not pitched away from the interior, it was done completely wrong and nothing will ever seal.

Tommy

 

[ard]

Just as a public service...

Check out 'Pemko Automatic Door Bottom Sweep'

They make many versions, some mortise into the bottom, some go on the outside- this will positively close off uneven sills and large spaces. Google it. Might help OP, or some of you others. Keep it in mind.

I had a 30x80 oak door, oak sill, single glass pane. Wind/rain exposure. Hardwood floor inside. Water would weep in. After dicking with the contractor for two rain seasosn, I fixed it:

1. Cut door and install a self-draining threshold. Any water that gets past, drains back out.

2. Then mortised the bottom of the door (it was 2" thick) and installed an inset auto threshold"

Not only is it bullet proof and leak free, the closing force is minimal- it is only on the last 3-4 inches of closure does the sweep activate, clamping down as the door closes.

They have versions that can be attached to the ousdie of a metal clad door as well.


Finally, I have seen these used on 'non-threshold' installs- big granite or polished concrete expanses, where you dont want a sweep - er- sweeping across all the time. They just snap down in the last few inches.

I am 100% certain OPs issue can be fixed. Maybe not by the flunkies that get sent out, and maybe not cheap....