Bench grinder Wire Brush

[brent5631]

Is there a certain type of wire brush wheel for a bench grinder that does not expand out so much that it chews up the grinder?

I just installed a Weiler 7" X 3/4 brush on my 7" block grinder and with the guards on the grinder the wires chew up the side plates. I'm just wondering if there is a certain type or crimp style that I missed when ordering a brush wheel.

Any insight guys?

 

[brent5631]

See pic attached of the grinder in question.

 

[mbshop]

I would just snip off the offending wires.

 

[ken w.]

I use a twisted or knotted wire wheel. It doesn't expand as much while in rotation and you get fewer wires flying out at you.

 

[mbshop]

Twisted wire wheels were just to aggressive for me. But I can understand their place. Had one in my shop on a big grinder but had to replace it because I probably didn't know how to use it and it messed up some parts I was cleaning up. So I just installed a regular wire wheel and snipped off the offending wires and it was fine after that thus my suggestion.

 

[brent5631]

Twisted wire wheels were just to aggressive for me. But I can understand their place. Had one in my shop on a big grinder but had to replace it because I probably didn't know how to use it and it messed up some parts I was cleaning up. So I just installed a regular wire wheel and snipped off the offending wires and it was fine after that thus my suggestion.

I'll give that a try. I bring all this up because the wire wheel i took off had a much larger center ring so the wires couldn't expand as much. I'm trying to find a similar wheel without much luck. This was my grandfathers grinder so I have no info on the previous wheel and there were no numbers on it.

 

[Ty.]

You could try sandwiching the wire wheel you already have between two large washers?

 

[Davefr]

Just extend the side guard with a couple washer to make a bigger slot for the wheel.

 

[GirchyGirchy]

Space it further out and remove the end cap.

 

[bluebolt]

Space it further out and remove the end cap.

This is what I would probably do.

 

[torqueman2002]

You might find something at McMaster Carr, I have used their Snap-In Metal Arbor-Hole Reducers (2" x 5/8") with wire wheels.
https://www.mcmaster.com/#wire-wheels/=vg9k4y

 

[lilredex]

My solution for either regular or knotted wheels, a simple coupling nut extends it out of the way.

 

[EOC_Jason]

What brand wire wheel? Is it USA or just a cheap china from a big box store?

I bought a nice Osborn off eBay, had a 2" hole but came with metal reducers for like $20 shipped. I run it on my 1725 RPM motor without any guards. It does not fling broken wires all over the place like the cheap Chinese ones.

At the very least you might want to flip the tool-rest around so it's out of the way. Sometimes you can clip wires that bend out to the side, sometimes you might need to shim the whole wheel one direction of the other.

 

[driftpin]

Another issue I had using a 6" wire wheel, one from Home Depot, it was an offshore name brand: it was so-far off-balance, the grinder did the 'watusi' around the benchtop like a seizuring hippo on PCP. It was entertaining to watch, but useless for work. I took it back and got a made-in-USA wire wheel from a local tool warehouse i Ft. Lauderdale, All-American Tool, off State Rd 84 on SE 4 Ave, just north of Ft. Lauderdale International Airport. They sell many tools, all name-brand stuff, including used floor-model tools. They do a lot of business with the aviation and marine industries as Port Everglades is less than a mile away. Anyway, it's a great place to shop if you're in the area, and McDonald's Hardware is in State Rd. 84 very close to it, and has its own hardware assets to check-out, there's a steady stream of people in & out from the marine and aviation industry businesses nearby.

I also had an issue with the side plates, but going to the better-quality wire-wheel discs also solved the light interference. The spacing of the side plate and a flat washer on the inside are what I was planning to do, but the coupling nut is also a good idea.

 

[lilredex]

If your wheels are out of balance, try turning them 1/4 turn at a time 'til you find the sweet spot. That is what I did on those shown above. My Baldor is smooth running now.

 

[EOC_Jason]

One tip I read recently was to flip your wheels around occasionally as the ends will wear in one direction and become dull. Flipping them around exposes the sharp side and will clean like new...

I tried it and was pleasantly surprised how much a difference it made. Like night & day.

 

[ndnchf]

Anyone with a grinder should also have a wheel dressing tool. They true the wheel face and remove the outer layer that gets clogged up over time. You'd be amazed how much better an old grinding wheel works after its been dressed.

 

[crguy]

My solution for either regular or knotted wheels, a simple coupling nut extends it out of the way.

Running that wire wheel without a guard is just plain stupid and dangerous.

 

[1982fxr]

Running that wire wheel without a guard is just plain stupid and dangerous.

ppe

 

[EOC_Jason]

Running that wire wheel without a guard is just plain stupid and dangerous.

On a 3450 RPM I wouldn't do it, but on my 1750 RPM home-made I don't feel any danger. It's such a fine wire wheel and the RPM so low even brushing my finger against it won't rip off flesh (unlike the one of my higher-RPM grinder).

 

[exmaxima1]

Running that wire wheel without a guard is just plain stupid and dangerous.

I'm more afraid of my 10" wire wheel with guard than my little 7" grinder running a pair of wire wheels and no guards. Parts get caught in the guard of the big grinder and fly across the room, or jammed into the guard. The smaller machine has no issues and I have much better access to whatever I'm working on. I wear a full visor, and tight fitting shirt.