Choosing a strut assembly

[jives]

Hi folks;
When the weather warms up I'll be helping my son with his first car repair on his first car, a 2000 Chevy Prizm (Toyota Corolla). We'll be replacing the front strut assemblies. A quick look at Rock Auto has assemblies going from about $40 to $140 each. We will replace the entire assembly, and do not have a spring compressor.

So, how do you choose, other than cost?

Ultra Strut
Ultra Strut Premium
FCS
Monroe
Moog
KYB
Gabriel

 

[rlitman]

I'm a fan of KYB. That's supposed to get you closest to the factory ride.

 

[nbpt100]

It is a bit of a **** shoot as one MFG may make some excellent products in one model and not so excellent products in another. Kinda like batteries.

I have had read good things about KYB and no so good about Monroe on a Ford board I frequent. Moog generally has a good reputation but I would bet it is one of the more expensive offerings.

You can also borrow a spring compressor from one of the auto parts box stores if you wanted to piece together the assembly for yourself. Just an option.

 

[bwringer]

I have a 2002 Corolla with over 430,000 miles, so I'm familiar with this job...

Reviews on the cheapie Chinese struts are very mixed. Some people have had great success, but there have been a lot of failures.

Personally, I hate doing a job twice because a cheap part failed, so I'd pony up for the Moog or KYB struts. KYB is the OEM, so I'd lean that way, but Moog has a great reputation.

My Corolla is wearing the Monroe quick struts right now, and I can't recommend them -- the damping changed noticeably within 20,000 miles, and the strut mounts in the front sagged fairly quickly.

There's a 99.9% chance you will also need to change the stabilizer bar links as well -- it's pretty much impossible to disassemble these after they've been in there a few years, and they're probably pretty worn anyway. Again, there are at least a dozen choices at RockAuto. The Moog links are probably the best overall, but you could save a few bucks with Beck/Arnley or Mevotech.

One last detail -- on the rear strut, the brake line mounts to a tab on the strut where the flexible line from the car meets the hard line to the wheel cylinder. It's a lot easier and faster to cut the mounting hole so that it's a U shape so you don't have to undo the brake line connection. Pull the clip, carefully Dremel the tab to free the connection, then Dremel a slot in the new strut's mounting tab. It'll be perfectly secure once the spring clip is in place, but you could add a zip tie if you're paranoid.

 

[nbpt100]

One last detail -- on the rear strut, the brake line mounts to a tab on the strut where the flexible line from the car meets the hard line to the wheel cylinder. It's a lot easier and faster to cut the mounting hole so that it's a U shape so you don't have to undo the brake line connection. Pull the clip, carefully Dremel the tab to free the connection, then Dremel a slot in the new strut's mounting tab. It'll be perfectly secure once the spring clip is in place, but you could add a zip tie if you're paranoid.

Excellent suggestion!

 

[rlitman]

...One last detail -- on the rear strut, the brake line mounts to a tab on the strut where the flexible line from the car meets the hard line to the wheel cylinder. It's a lot easier and faster to cut the mounting hole so that it's a U shape so you don't have to undo the brake line connection. Pull the clip, carefully Dremel the tab to free the connection, then Dremel a slot in the new strut's mounting tab. It'll be perfectly secure once the spring clip is in place, but you could add a zip tie if you're paranoid.

This is true, BUT by the time the struts are worn out, the brake hoses are pretty old too. Last time I did a strut replacement, I took it as an opportunity to replace all four brake hoses too, and flush the brakes.

 

[ZipSnafu]

IMHO I would lean toward the KYB from past experience. I've had good results with the quality and ride comfort of KYB struts.

 

[jives]

I have a 2002 Corolla with over 430,000 miles, so I'm familiar with this job...

There's a 99.9% chance you will also need to change the stabilizer bar links as well -- it's pretty much impossible to disassemble these after they've been in there a few years, and they're probably pretty worn anyway. Again, there are at least a dozen choices at RockAuto. The Moog links are probably the best overall, but you could save a few bucks with Beck/Arnley or Mevotech.

I like this suggestion as well. I hate starting a job only to get part way through and have to go by new parts. We'll make sure to check the bar links thoroughly before ordering any parts.

 

[firworks]

I've done a couple of Monroe Quick Struts and they were fool proof to install and seem to be working just fine.

 

[Tundruz]

No spring compressor? Sounds like a good reason to buy a new tool and learn how to use it. Having one of those can pay for itself in a short time working on neighbors and friends cars and gain automotive knowledge. As for the struts, consider how long do you plan on having the car, what conditions are you in, and what type of roads do you drive on are some questions you have to ask yourself. Some people want parts that will get the car down the road for a few thousand miles and some want parts that will outlast the cars life.

 

[Jlbc212]

From my experience of changing struts I no longer replace with aftermarket struts. I buy OEM. The alignment will be perfect and they always last longer than aftermarket.

 

[isb cornbinder]

Would your opinion change if someone were to show you that the vehicle manufacturers do not build their own shocks and struts? Dealer pricing can sometimes be several times as high as buying the same part from a local parts store like NAPA.
EG: For an OEM lift pump for my 2002 Ram Diesel. The pump is a Carter 4601
Dealer price, $685.00
Cummins price, $234
Local parts store, $97,00
In each case the replacement pump came in a Carter box with the 4601 number.

 

[rlitman]

From my experience of changing struts I no longer replace with aftermarket struts. I buy OEM. The alignment will be perfect and they always last longer than aftermarket.

No. Alignment must be redone, regardless of the source of your replacement struts.

 

[unslow1]

Would your opinion change if someone were to show you that the vehicle manufacturers do not build their own shocks and struts? Dealer pricing can sometimes be several times as high as buying the same part from a local parts store like NAPA.
EG: For an OEM lift pump for my 2002 Ram Diesel. The pump is a Carter 4601
Dealer price, $685.00
Cummins price, $234
Local parts store, $97,00
In each case the replacement pump came in a Carter box with the 4601 number.

My point from my earlier post in the auto parts store thread. I picked up a coil from Advance Auto last fall. The box was Intermotor. The part inside was an identical match for Volvo OEM. It even had the Volvo right in the top.

 

[Jlbc212]

No. Alignment must be redone, regardless of the source of your replacement struts.

I now always use OEM front end parts. I've never had to do a follow-up alignment after installing OEM parts and I've never had any issues, such as premature tire wear, vibration, pulling to one side ... most vehicles I've worked on these days have only one front-end alignment adjustment - tie rod ends. If the tie rods haven't been loosened, no adjustment should be necessary. IMHO front end alignments are a rip-off, but if you want to do 'em, go ahead.

 

[vettex2]

I now always use OEM front end parts. I've never had to do a follow-up alignment after installing OEM parts and I've never had any issues, such as premature tire wear, vibration, pulling to one side ... most vehicles I've worked on these days have only one front-end alignment adjustment - tie rod ends. If the tie rods haven't been loosened, no adjustment should be necessary. IMHO front end alignments are a rip-off, but if you want to do 'em, go ahead.

I hope yopu only work on your own vehicles .

 

[bwringer]

Couple of points to repeat:

1) All else being equal, quick-struts are a no-brainer on most vehicles -- you won't save any money, and you'll spend a LOT more time if you just buy all the parts separately and move your springs over. Bare struts plus mounts plus boots plus cushion adds up about the same, usually more. Of course, on some vehicles quick-struts aren't available, or you can't get certain brands. In this case, it's a friggin' Corolla -- there are bazillions of them on the road, and parts choices are plentiful.

2) KYB is the usual OEM for Toyota struts.

3) This vehicle does not have adjustments for caster and camber. The strut bolts are just normal bolts, not the eccentrics (used for adjusting camber) found on many other vehicles. Unless the car has been crashed or the parts are damaged, just replacing the struts does not necessarily mean you MUST have an alignment, at least on this car.

 

[vettex2]

set the toe and ler 'er go

 

[Kaizen]

I have had good luck with moog. I did this job and it wasn't bad. Course it was only five years old and no corrosion. I like to buy at advance auto online and pick up in store. They have an online discount and if you get half way through it and find it's wrong you can just run down to the store. Not sure if you were going to order from rock


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[Jlbc212]

I hope yopu only work on your own vehicles .

Just about every vehicle I have worked on in the last several years has no alignment adjustment except for toe in/out. If the tie rods are not being loosened and there's no damage to the vehicle, there's nothing to adjust.

 

[rsanter]

I had a problem with a set from Monroe.
Have always had good luck from KYB

Bob

 

[padroo]

Just about every vehicle I have worked on in the last several years has no alignment adjustment except for toe in/out. If the tie rods are not being loosened and there's no damage to the vehicle, there's nothing to adjust.[/QUOTE


I installed front struts on my Prius this winter, the left front one blew all the oil out.
I bought the no name brand on eBay. I was surprised when Advance auto didn't have them in stock. According to a tech on the Prius chat forum they just don't go bad , but mine did.
I thought I needed a front end alignments but after checking the only thing adjustable was the toe and I didn't mess with that. Some older cars a front end alignments was mandatory.

 

[jives]

The KYBs are the OEM, though using the Parts Lookup under Prizm vs. Corolla you get ACDelco rather than KYB.

So, here is the question. . . given these prices for struts in all 4 corners parts, are the KYBs really worth it? The KYBs are 3x the cost.
KYBs: $512
Off-brand "FCS": $180.
off-brand Ultrapower: $240.
Monroe economatic: $270.

 

[Red89gt]

Yeah I would have a hard time spending $512 as well. However if your keeping the car the kyb will be good for another 100k miles. I just put kyb from rock auto on all four corners of my wife's MDx at 120k miles plan to drive it another 100k. I almost bought just the struts but it didn't make sense to try and save a few bucks and risk having to do the job over if squeaks or rattles from strut mounts etc. I had to cut the end links off as mentioned prior. The replacement moog links have grease fittings and wrench provisions for future removal.

 

[bwringer]

Google around and keep trying until you find a 5% RockAuto discount code. Also, if you look under "suspension kit" you can get all four for one slightly lower price ($500.79 for KYB.)

I wouldn't go cheap, personally, but it's up to you. It's a 17 year old kid's beater, after all.


The "FCS" (Fine Chinese Shite?) brand boasts a "Limited Lifetime Warranty", while the "Ultra-Power" brand does not mention any warranty. Not sure what good a warranty would do you, but it's something to consider.

If you do install the FCS struts, do it for Science -- report back and tell the world how things work out.

 

[vettex2]

Google around and keep trying until you find a 5% RockAuto discount code. Also, if you look under "suspension kit" you can get all four for one slightly lower price ($500.79 for KYB.)

I wouldn't go cheap, personally, but it's up to you. It's a 17 year old kid's beater, after all.


The "FCS" (Fine Chinese Shite?) brand boasts a "Limited Lifetime Warranty", while the "Ultra-Power" brand does not mention any warranty. Not sure what good a warranty would do you, but it's something to consider.

If you do install the FCS struts, do it for Science -- report back and tell the world how things work out.

 

[jives]

In the decision-making process it is okay to consider the use of the car. 18 year old freshman, using the 2000 Prizm to commute to the local college and around town. Original cost of $1400 for a "relatively" rust free car with only 79,000 miles (yes, even the Carfax checked out). Plan to drive car for 4-5 years or another 50K miles max, get real job, get real car.

$500 is hard to swallow under these circumstances.

 

[unslow1]

You also have to take into consideration that being driven by a teenager chances are very high it won't last 5 years. Three years ago I put new CV axles and front hubs on my niece's car. It had 92K at the time. It was a safe bet to put on the cheaper lines. Eighteen months later it was totaled.

 

[Tundruz]

In the decision-making process it is okay to consider the use of the car. 18 year old freshman, using the 2000 Prizm to commute to the local college and around town. Original cost of $1400 for a "relatively" rust free car with only 79,000 miles (yes, even the Carfax checked out). Plan to drive car for 4-5 years or another 50K miles max, get real job, get real car.

$500 is hard to swallow under these circumstances.

Sounds like you know where this is going with your $1400 investment, hello FCS struts.

 

[Red89gt]

yeah, can't argue FCS would be going on there if it were my situation on a 2000 Geo. Regardless the FCS are all new parts on the assembly and if one strut were to fail the bolts will all be loose from the current install it would swap out easily and you would still be money ahead. Only reason I did KYB on mine is its a newer acura that only my wife drives, it has an easy life.

 

[Eric29]

I would use these. I've used their struts before and theya re fine.

http://www.primechoice.com/Auto/Suspension-Steering/Shocks-Struts/CST100080PR

 

[LX-Markham]

I've always said: don't cheap out on tires or brakes. I have since added shocks/struts to that list. It's amazing the difference in ride and handling a quality set of shocks will give you.

Another vote for KYB.

 

[jives]

Thanks, all. I'm thinking the Primechoice look reasonable, and will swap out the stabilizer links as well. We'll start with the front, see how they work over some time, then if we feel the need to do the rear we'll have some data on going cheap or going OEM.

 

[Seppala]

I've done a couple of Monroe Quick Struts and they were fool proof to install and seem to be working just fine.

2nd this. Installed Monroe Quick Struts on my 2001 Toyota Camry over 30,000 miles ago. No problem with quality or performance of the struts.